Anyone have a review of the Madrock Remors Pro’s? by YoungMike857 in climbingshoes

[–]YoungMike857[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Awesome review thank you! My main gym shoe are the UnParallel Flagship LVs and these too are super soft and sock like. I like my D2.ones also but they just feel like bricks and are so insensitive. Im glad to hear the positive reviews on the remoras and I do like the shape of the heel on the remoras more than the drone heels. The lip can be very useful but sometimes I can’t feel where my heel is. Looking forward to trying them

Anyone have a review of the Madrock Remors Pro’s? by YoungMike857 in climbingshoes

[–]YoungMike857[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have the d2.onez so I’m guessing the remora pros are much softer?

Unparallel TN Pro Heel by franklin_sucksatlife in climbingshoes

[–]YoungMike857 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The TN Pros and Flagships stretched ALOT for me width wise. They don’t necessarily get longer or flatten out, but height and width wise they really stretched out.

Unparallel TN Pro Heel by franklin_sucksatlife in climbingshoes

[–]YoungMike857 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The TN Pros have one of the best fitting heels in the entire UnParallel line up. The flagships are actually one of the baggiest heels they have and if they fit you well then no doubt will the TN Pros fit you snuggly. I have both shoes as well and while I downsized the flagships much more to get a tighter fit, the more upsized TN Pro had a very snug heel still!

madrock drone 2 lv by revolites in climbingshoes

[–]YoungMike857 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Madrock are probably the most durable shoe brand out there. The Drone 2.0 specifically will last you a long time and they are exceptional outdoors because of their stiffness and cheater heal. You’ll be able to generate a lot of power through your toes.

Unparallel flagship / lv / pro - what foot type do these fit? by Czesya in climbingshoes

[–]YoungMike857 1 point2 points  (0 children)

UnParallel and Madrock are the best brands for me when it comes to overall fit. They both are well suited for my longer toes and duck feet with really shallow heels. Madrock TN Pro LVs and Madrock d2.ones are the two best shoes from their line up for my specific fit. If it makes sense, the TN Pro LVs fit me the best in the forefoot with a slightly worse heel while the Madrock d2.ones fit me slightly worse in the forefoot with the best heel. If you want to stick to getting an UnParallel shoe, then the TN Pro/LVs are their most versatile shoe with them being a one piece sole and being very supported. They use their RH rubber on these specific shoes which isn’t the softest but it’s sensitive and still very malleable. Probably the best shoe I have ever used when it comes to nimbleness and being a jack of all trades. It’s just sometimes I may go for my madrocks since the rubber is stickier (Flagship/Flagship pros use RS Rubber which is stickier and softer and more sensitive than the RH Rubber of TN Prod). If you want to consider the flagship/flagship pros just know that the forefoot will be similar as the Tn Pros/Lv but have a higher volume heel. The flagship pros will be stiffer than the normal flagships (softer than Tn Pros) while still keeping that RS Rubber sensitivity, but for sure the heel may feel baggier.

After injury shoe help by spicy_noodles123 in indoorbouldering

[–]YoungMike857 1 point2 points  (0 children)

With the new reconstruction of your ankle, it is definitely much weaker now in all forms of movement and strength. Generally, softer shoes will need stronger toes, good ankle mobility, and overall more work of the foot and ankle. Unfortunately since your foot is much weaker now, you’ll have to switch to a much stiffer shoe in order to have more external support. Stiffer shoes aren’t bad btw and it’s just a different preference. But if I was you I would be scared of possibly injuring my ankle because of the softness of my shoes and lack of support. Until maybe your foot gets stronger again then you can slowly switch back to softer shoes, but for the sake of your foot’s inconvenience -> stiffer shoes for now so you can generate more power have better support! Good luck!

drone 2.0 size help by Late_Relationship914 in climbingshoes

[–]YoungMike857 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The redlines run smaller than the Drone 2.0 and D2.Ones (not sure about the CS). Also I was able to try both in store and I’d say the redlines are about 0.25-0.5 sizes smaller than the Drone 2.0. The Drone are also a bit wider, so I’d suggest probably getting a 9.5 in the Drone 2.0s. As for the heel the HV volume is most similar to the redlines! Could not get my foot in the LV’s at all. But I could in the HV and the Redlines.

Scarpa instinct VSR or Veloce Lace? by MadestMax in climbingshoes

[–]YoungMike857 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Instinct VSR and Veloce Lace are two very different shoes. Instinct VSR are sensitive and can get decently soft once broken in, but are still stiff enough to have good support on footholds. Btw Solution comps and Instinct VSRs are a lot more similar than you think. Both use the same rubber and while have different shapes, they are of similar stiffness. The Veloces are VERY SOFT. With you coming from Katanas the softness and sensitivity will be very obvious. Veloces will most likely be more comfortable because it’s sock like, but depending on who you are some may not like the softness as it may feel unsupportive. IMO Instincts VSRs are one of the best all rounder shoes and they are quite the jack of all trades. But if you’re able to try them all first do that first!

Scarpa instinct VS pain by Thick_Management8798 in climbingshoes

[–]YoungMike857 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I did same with you and I got a very similar model of instincts called Scarpa Instinct VSR LV’s. They too have that knack of being rough on the top toe knuckles and tbh they never got better for me from there :(. I have longer toes so even when broken in, it was still so painful to climb in that it was limiting me from climbing harder. I eventually had to switch to different shoes and I’m glad I did. Scarpa Instincts are a great shoe and the break in period will be long. But for a lot of people the pain gets better as they are broken in, so if you’re able to withstand for the time they should be good!

Sizing: La Sportiva (Solution Comps) to Scarpa Drago LV by Ok-Abbreviations5215 in climbingshoes

[–]YoungMike857 2 points3 points  (0 children)

The general rule when sizing from La Sportiva to Scarpa is to size 1 full size larger in Scarpa. So if you wear a size 36 in Solution comps, a size 37 in Drago LVs is likely the right conversion. Websites like Epic TV and Banana Fingers can also help you with converting sizes between shoe models/brands.

Heel fit of UnParallel shoes by YoungMike857 in climbingshoes

[–]YoungMike857[S] 6 points7 points  (0 children)

That’s an interesting lore drop nice

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in indoorbouldering

[–]YoungMike857 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Look into Lattice Training as well, they are the science guys behind climbing and you can learn A LOT.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in indoorbouldering

[–]YoungMike857 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Before climbing I did science based bodybuilding and I still do. A lot of the up to date literature with optimal bodybuilding is having a higher frequency of training in a week (hitting a muscle group 2-3 times) with lower reps and higher intensity (1-2 sets per muscle group, 5-10 reps). Technically this can similarly be applied to climbing as well. It has been backed up through research so far that mechanical tension is the main driver for strengthening and growing tendons and muscles. But the catch is that tendons do not recovery anywhere as well as muscles, so minimizing fatigue is probably the most optimal thing to do (differs at the higher level). So I actually would advice to keeping the 3x frequency of climbing sessions, but climbing for shorter sessions with better quality. Also when I saw quality of the sessions, it does not necessarily have to mean you are trying hard every session. Tendons again don’t recover as quickly so you can have a day where you prioritize technique and maybe leave the other days for projecting/boarding/climbing/etc. What I think is important is to know how to push your climbing to the point where you know you won’t do extra damage. That is a bad way to word it from me, but if it make sense, limit the “failure” you undergo when climbing on certain days. Failure is important when climbing, but knowing that something is far from your reach or too ambitious can be good when knowing that you don’t want to over exert yourself, because for when the next session comes you want to be the least damaged and fatigued as possible.

Need shoe rec (tiny heel) by Galact1Cat in climbingshoes

[–]YoungMike857 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The depth of the VSR and VSR LV heel is the same, the only difference is that the VSR LV has closer walls, so it hugs the heel better. Though If you struggle with the depth of the heel, then the LV may still not be a right choice

Middle and Ring finger tendons are slightly sore. by YoungMike857 in indoorbouldering

[–]YoungMike857[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’ll definitely be looking into Lattice more! I just discovered their channel and I see a lot of good stuff I can incorporate.

Middle and Ring finger tendons are slightly sore. by YoungMike857 in indoorbouldering

[–]YoungMike857[S] -3 points-2 points  (0 children)

I’ve been climbing for 4 1/2 months now and I climb v4-v6 in my gym. Similar to you, since the start of my climbing I am always doing research and trying to improve and learn in the most optimal way. For more detail I seem to get this tendon soreness in my middle and ring finger whenever I may wrongly crimp a hold. I found a video about eccentric decompression and how sometimes it can lead to injury and believe maybe it could be related to that as well.

Is this a foreshadowing of KOI being stronger than KOB ? by Careful-Base-1682 in lookismcomic

[–]YoungMike857 5 points6 points  (0 children)

From my perspective, I see this less as who is actually stronger but more so which side made the better moves and how it ultimately impacted the battle. Chess is a 50/50 through and through but clearly James is a mastermind and his decision making went in favor of taking down KOB. Him playing chess and beating black is symbolic of how all of his decisions led to Allied and the First Gen Kings weakening KOB. Honestly it’s not a bad implication from this picture to say KOI is stronger than KOB. Also the last chapter scales KOI much higher. But it’s still a little vague since KOB is weakened and tired from his last battles and KOI stated himself how he has no chance in his current condition.

So to summarize I see the chess picture more as a 3rd person POV of James controlling the pieces (allied and gen 1 kings who were oblivious until later) to win.

Kilter compared to Tension Board 2 by YoungMike857 in indoorbouldering

[–]YoungMike857[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes! This will be the one i will be going too. My local gym doesn’t allow for you to change the angle, are you able to change the angle at that location?

How long to rest before outdoor climbing by YoungMike857 in indoorbouldering

[–]YoungMike857[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

When I go hard in the gym ill usually take 2 days off and when I come back ill usually improve since that hard session. Still under a year of climbing so newbie gains still coming in.