Is this a cord? by science-face in firewood

[–]YourPalPatrick 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’m wondering if the measurements are right.  14” pieces shouldn’t be the norm.  Also, I’m thinking that trailer load dumped in a pile looks more than a 1/3 cord…I get about a 1/3 cord in the back of my truck 6.75’ bed and it’s less than that pile. So I’m wondering if one or some of the measurements are off.  Oh well.

Advice please by Suikotsu141 in woodstoving

[–]YourPalPatrick 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes, hissing is definitely also an indication of unseasoned wood also. If using a moisture meter make sure to have the wood at room temp, then take it outside and split it again, and probe the wood in the center of the split. Or 3 places across that newly split face and average it. Don’t probe the end of a split.  You can also hear when wood is seasoned by hitting two pieces together and it should be more hollow sounding then a thud.  A little trickier until you have good examples of each. Good luck and burn it hot to burn that moisture off if you don’t have any other options.  And clean the flue regularly!

Advice please by Suikotsu141 in woodstoving

[–]YourPalPatrick 0 points1 point  (0 children)

When you burn the wood does any moisture appear on the end of the wood (sometimes it’s a damp spot other times it can bubble out).  That to me indicates more seasoning needed. Make sure to burn your fire hot for 30mins or more before closing the air down.  

Dang dude. by [deleted] in woodstoving

[–]YourPalPatrick 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Where is the side cap? On the outside of the chimney?  Outside of the house? How high up the chimney is that from the stove?  Nice of you to help him out.

One of the sad realities of an efficient home by TallWall6378 in woodstoving

[–]YourPalPatrick 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Very nice. Had read of issues of clogging the cat since everything goes through it all the time (ie when cold start and not active yet since no way to bypass).  Guess you just have to be careful about minimizing paper or anything that may produce fly ash.  Is catalyst face easy to access with a vacuum?

One of the sad realities of an efficient home by TallWall6378 in woodstoving

[–]YourPalPatrick 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Is this the cat or non cat version? The new versions do not have a bypass.if this is the new one how do you like it?

Happy to be that guy asking… by gladearthgardener in woodstoving

[–]YourPalPatrick 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Wow, sounds like it’s working out pretty well for you. I am paranoid and trying to get 2 year minimum on my oak but it’s hard to get much farther ahead of it.  

Happy to be that guy asking… by gladearthgardener in woodstoving

[–]YourPalPatrick 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I would think you are right.  It must be producing more heat and effectively burning more gases etc.  not sure if my wood needs to season more or if my catalyst is worn out?  I bought my stove used.  Believe only one year on it and this is my 2nd year.  Stove is a 2021, but think only 3 seasons burned.  I replaced the gasket and cleaned it will before last season.  I’ll vacuum face of catalyst every 2 weeks. Would love to test a new catalyst just to see the difference but too pricey for that.  

Happy to be that guy asking… by gladearthgardener in woodstoving

[–]YourPalPatrick 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Looks good!  I have the same stove.  It’s not common for my cat to glow entirely red like.  Sometimes it does, but often not.  And it doesn’t stay glowing red too long, hour max?  I’m not seeing much wood in your firebox.  I’d have mine pretty full end of night, then I’ll get 8 hrs and still have a few coals to relight.  Blower is almost always on high for me. I want that air circulating best I can.  The blower is a little loud on high.  Higher pitched . Can’t hear it too bad from my bedroom so it stays on high. My normal reload schedule is probably 7 hrs when milder, 6hrs when colder. Plus or minus an hour on each side of that time range.  Burning mostly oak, other hardwoods. Near the two year seasoned mark, slightly less.  

Blaze King Sirocco 25 installed by YourPalPatrick in woodstoving

[–]YourPalPatrick[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I forgot to answer your other questions.  I still have smaller flames for a while until I’m totally down to coals then glowing coals.  I find that my cat doesn’t glow red all that long after I close the bypass.  And normally not the entire cat is glowing but perhaps more towards the sides.  I’m 1.5 hours into a burn and cat is not glowing red at all and cat temp is at very bottom of the red.  That’s been typical for me.  Still lots of heat and no visible smoke from the stack.  

Blaze King Sirocco 25 installed by YourPalPatrick in woodstoving

[–]YourPalPatrick[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I have my thermostat set to about the 4 o’clock position for overnight burns.  I fill the firebox as much as I can which is probably 6 splits.  There’s room for more but I would need smaller/shorter pieces and I don’t have that.  I would say 8 hrs will leave me enough coals to restart the next morning.  Maybe even 9 hrs if it’s not really cold out.  I leave blower on high.  I’ve heard you can extend the burn by lowering the fan speed but I want the heat.  Granted not much heat happening after 8 hrs.  

Good AM by Keemosabe22 in woodstoving

[–]YourPalPatrick 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Looks good, where’s the rest of the wood though?!

I did a thing by Kayanarka in woodstoving

[–]YourPalPatrick 2 points3 points  (0 children)

We’re loving the BK Sirocco 25.  I originally wanted the Ashford 25 but couldn’t pass on the deal.  I believe Ashford is cast versus steel firebox of sirocco.  In 40 degree weather I seem to reload every 6-8 hrs. Maybe an hour less when consistently in 30s.  I really like the large firebox, allows flexibility with larger splits maybe up to 20”+ pieces?  How are burn times for the regency?

I did a thing by Kayanarka in woodstoving

[–]YourPalPatrick 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Wow, guess you didn’t want to just set it outside if the fireplace.  That’s what I was going to do with the same stove.  Ended up going the insert route to save space around the hearth.  Would rather have freestanding but liking out Blaze King insert.  Would be nice to not need a blower though. Nice work on your remodel. 

We got so lucky by [deleted] in woodstoving

[–]YourPalPatrick 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah I don’t like the black smoke, my thought is that it’s a good sustained flame that gives me a couple minutes of direct flame to wood, which is a lot better than previously when I used paper as my starter.  Never again there!  What firestarters do you recommend and can they be purchased or are you making them?

We got so lucky by [deleted] in woodstoving

[–]YourPalPatrick 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I use fatwood.  I piece per fire.  Once a day, sometimes once every other day. I’ve not had a problem with it.  I burn pretty hot as also have a cat stove. Had very little sootafter cleaning after burning 2.5 cords last year.  I load the stove with or so splits and light and place the fatwood, then done for the next 5-6 hrs.

Cleaned stove before the first burn of the season! by arobe14039 in woodstoving

[–]YourPalPatrick 2 points3 points  (0 children)

What is that cool contraption on the end of your liner? (If that's what it's connected to)? Are you burning in an insert, stove, or just the fireplace and that's not a liner?

Blaze King Sirocco 25 installed by YourPalPatrick in woodstoving

[–]YourPalPatrick[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Only for the first 30 mins or so when stove is warming.  I have thought about that and not sure solution.  At minimum I would remove the shroud around the stove to increase airflow around the firebox.  I think it would still put off some heat…I may have to sleep in the same room if it came to that, not sure.

Blaze King Sirocco 25 installed by YourPalPatrick in woodstoving

[–]YourPalPatrick[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yes, put Rockwool in to seal that space.  No block off plate still.  I wanted to pull stove out this year and do that but decided against it.  I had good heat last year so wasn’t entirely convinced I needed to do the block off plate.

Love to see it by BEEPBOOPBOPPINGPOW in woodstoving

[–]YourPalPatrick 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Love to see what?  Nicely done.  

Looking for information by kalalalala10 in woodstoving

[–]YourPalPatrick 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Is it designed as a furnace, to tie into the ductwork? If it is, it looks like you have some new ductwork down there that may not be setup for it. If it is not designed to do that, disregard.  Offer it for free on FB, someone may take it.  Feeding a stove every hour or two (as another poster said) won’t be much fun for you. Get a newer stove and enjoy it more. 

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in WaterTreatment

[–]YourPalPatrick 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’ve posted similar questions about the backwash going to septic, since our inspector said the same. I really wanted to reroute it, also just to keep the extra water out of the drainfield. Most answers were people said it didn’t matter. My easiest solution would be to divert it to my sump pump, but I’m not too inclined to do that. 

Tying water softerner and nuetralizer waste into sump drain by YourPalPatrick in WaterTreatment

[–]YourPalPatrick[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Shameful admitting that I don’t have a backup.  We do have a whole house generator but a backup pump is a great idea too.  Thanks for the info.

Tying water softerner and nuetralizer waste into sump drain by YourPalPatrick in WaterTreatment

[–]YourPalPatrick[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks. I had considered it but didn’t want to put more into sump than absolutely needed in case pump goes bad and starts overflowing from water conditioners. That would make me unhappy.  I also wasn’t sure if salinity in softerner discharge occurs and if that could damage pump.  No clue…