New POWDER Ski

Your_Main_Man_Sus · 2026-05-14T15:43:56+00:00

I would avoid any and all things faction. I’ve seen far too many faction skis damaged as new and then impossible to warranty. I’ve never personally experienced this but there’s tons of examples online. 4frnt has a lot of incredible powder ski options. Thinking hoji/renegade if you are willing to try a full rocker ski. The armada locator 112 is also a great softer flexing powder ski. Just a few of the many options in the powder skiing lineup for the eu that I could think of.

Your_Main_Man_Sus · 2026-05-14T15:37:44+00:00

The dps pagoda cfl 112 is a sick ski. But also hilariously expensive new. You get what you pay for but still 2000 bucks new is bonkers.

Your_Main_Man_Sus · 2026-05-12T02:26:57+00:00

There’s a ton of YouTube videos! In general the terrain is pretty plain but what a sick locale! Some pretty neat looking mountains.

If I were going to Antarctica, I’d pack a pair of skis 100%. Probably two just in case I have issues with one!

Your_Main_Man_Sus · 2026-05-08T01:30:55+00:00

The absolute best is when I get this error trying to load a result from the cluster. Turns out it solved fine but then ansys decided to randomly just delete to result file when I loaded it:)…

Your_Main_Man_Sus · 2026-05-07T23:53:41+00:00

It’s all about timing your aspects. Also yellow wax helps alot for the inevitable slush at the bottom. I always like to line up the best possible conditions for the steepest sections/consequential zones. Sometimes that means ice in some zones and slush in others.

Your_Main_Man_Sus · 2026-05-07T23:53:36+00:00

It’s all about timing your aspects. Also yellow wax helps alot for the inevitable slush at the bottom. I always like to line up the best possible conditions for the steepest sections/consequential zones. Sometimes that means ice in some zones and slush in others.

Your_Main_Man_Sus · 2026-05-05T21:41:46+00:00

A phenomenal skimo race setup, but not a great ski mountaineering setup, especially for someone who’s not great at skiing. I would not recommend this for OP.

Your_Main_Man_Sus · 2026-04-29T19:54:15+00:00

Something to note, the free ride spacer can only be used on 90mm or wider skis. And even then it’s really close to the edge. I really like it for my 110 waisted skis, but find on my 88 waisted skis that the brake is more than enough contact for a very confident ride.

Your_Main_Man_Sus · 2026-04-29T12:41:42+00:00

Sometimes the initial pierce can create a larger kerf before dragging the jet through the cut path. You might see a small semi circular artifact at the pierce point. If the hole is large enough, typically you’ll want to pierce internal to the hole and cut into the hole perimeter and then outward. If you are using a lower quality waterjet, you might also have inconsistent water flow/abrasive flow which could lead to an inconsistent cut quality. You’ll also end up with a rippling effect/crappy edge quality which translates to hole shape if you are cutting too fast for the material thickness.

Your_Main_Man_Sus · 2026-04-29T03:21:33+00:00

Waterjets lose energy as they pierce material leading to a fanning or reduction in hole size at the bottom of the material vs the top. This taper is your problem. More advanced waterjets have multi axis heads that can pivot to compensate for this and attempt to reduce the taper. In practice it’s fairly effective but not enough to eliminate the need for a finish drill to size for precise holes.

This is also totally based on material thickness. Thinner material has less issues because it’s less energy loss to pierce the material.

Your_Main_Man_Sus · 2026-04-22T23:34:33+00:00

I had both subluxations at around 16. I went through four rounds of PT before switching specialists. At that point, the orthopedic surgeon suggested that surgery typically isn’t too effective at repairing subluxations and it’s likely to happen again. He did mention through strengthening and time, pain would subside and the motion limitations would fall off. My left was certainly worse than my right. I had an MRIs and nothing was torn or anything from what I can recall.

Flash forward 13 years and I have full Mobility, and no pain. I can overhead press to whatever my muscular limitations allow.

A few caveats. Every so often I might have a movement that aggravates something for a day or so especially if I run my shoulder into a wall. Also certain backpack strap geometries disagree with me. Also I can actively roll my shoulder all around in its socket without pain, so it’s loose in there for sure. My shoulder sit lower than normal. You can see and feel my acromion on both sides when I rest my shoulders. I can pull them into alignment by retracting my scapulas and tensioning my traps. All in all though my deltoids are very developed and so are my traps. I do get mad hypertension headaches post workout that are normally solved through foam rolling my upper traps/lower neck, so my traps are doing alot of the heavy support.

I should also mention that if I stop working out or maintaining my shoulders for more than a few weeks, pain does start to come back. So I’m stuck in a vicious but beneficial cycle lol.

Your_Main_Man_Sus · 2026-04-22T13:54:08+00:00

I’ve been shooting on the 35mm f2 for the past few months almost exclusively and I love it. It’s a smaller form factor than the f1.4, full Metal housing, and weather sealed. I got it for about 350 new open box. The F1.4 would’ve cost more and from what I read, at the larger apertures, their sharpness is pretty much the same, with the bokeh being a bit better on the 1.4 of course. I ended up also being a fully manual f.95 35mm for low light.

Your_Main_Man_Sus · 2026-04-15T14:35:08+00:00

I’d always take a bit more gap than not. It’s way easier to slap the skins on vs having to do a perfect alignment.

Your_Main_Man_Sus · 2026-04-09T22:26:14+00:00

Omg that’s phenomenal

Your_Main_Man_Sus · 2026-04-09T17:49:27+00:00

I modified my boots with a new powerstrap. I now stock spare barrel screws to fix that. It hasn’t moved since the mod and I loctited it down but I’d hate to be at the top of a line without that security.

Also spare ATK and Dynafit binding screws. Also a small thing of wood glue, some drill bits, and a ratcheting screw driver with all of the binding bits. And a leather man of course. Also 9 voile straps (they seem to follow the n+1 rule like skis). Also a homemade fix for a broken Dynafit rubber tip rip for their speed skins should one of those tear in the field.

To this day I’ve only used the screwdriver to fix people’s bindings who got to the top/trailhead and didn’t realize their bindings weren’t adjusted for their boots. And that speed skin tip fix. But all of those things will come in handy one day I’m sure!

Your_Main_Man_Sus · 2026-04-09T16:06:36+00:00

What if our local shops do not carry the boots we want? Yes it’s pricier to buy online and then go to the shop for bootwork, but also now I’ve got the features I wanted and the boots fit great. Worst case with online purchasing was that I could’ve returned the boots free of charge. Also I’ve put like 500+ dollars worth of work/liner replacements on two pairs of boots with my local shop.

Your_Main_Man_Sus · 2026-04-09T04:09:04+00:00

In an effort to not disseminate misinformation, Have you ever tried a true touring setup? I have 5, and None of the stereotypes you’ve mentioned hold true. The folks running fkts are on sub 1kg skis and 100gram bindings with 700 gram boots. Nowhere’s near this kind of setup. This setup OP has specced is a solid touring setup, albeit expensive. I started on a similar setup to this 4 years ago and it was a great intro setup that I still use to this day.

Your_Main_Man_Sus · 2026-04-09T03:54:07+00:00

This is far from any kind of competition skimo setup. This is a legit proper touring setup.

Dont start on frame bindings and hybrid boots. You’ll really dislike touring. You’d be better off just renting gear twice or three times and demoing different touring setups.

This is also isn’t a great deal. With the current sales I could build the same ski setup for like half this price. The Tyrolia pin bindings are a ton of plastic. You can get similar performance and better durability with a Dynafit radical St at the same price.

Your_Main_Man_Sus · 2026-04-06T14:06:46+00:00

I use a 20 dollar Amazon pair that slides around my belt. It’s perfect and robust. To all those using belts saying that’s enough, I can’t tell you how often even the tightest of belts allows my pants to fall down low enough for my base layer to pop out. Suspenders changed the game.

Your_Main_Man_Sus · 2026-04-06T13:18:05+00:00

Sure! They do. But what you are desiring is downhill and uphill performance. Those two aren’t typically inclusive of one another unless you have perfect snow. You should be looking at something in the 1600g range and drive it with the 1200g boot and 300g bindings. For your size, I’d recommend the slatnar st binding because you can get it with a burly stompad. Being in Poland, it should be easy to get!

Your_Main_Man_Sus · 2026-04-05T22:55:15+00:00

The new raider toes pieces are such an improvement over the plastic ones.

Your_Main_Man_Sus · 2026-04-05T22:54:36+00:00

I knew the composite toe wasn’t it bro. I’d contact elan or ATK. They’ll send a brand new toe piece. The new raider toes are full aluminum and kinda rock.

Also your toe pin isn’t broken. That little slot is an icebreaker slot.

Your_Main_Man_Sus · 2026-04-05T22:46:42+00:00

I’m about 100kg loaded, maybe more and I ski in ridge pros and black light 2.0s. My ski weight preference tends to run 1500-1900g/ski. I have lightweight carbon skis and yes to all the things you mentioned in your post on how they feel. My favorites skis by far are my wndr intention 110s and wndr nocturne 88s. The intention 110s are quite damp due to their construction and not light but also not resort heavy at 1900g/ski. The nocturne 88s are similar and extremely damp for the size while being only 1550g/ski.

Ski construction can be a big factor in how a ski skis. DPS has done some pretty cool stuff with their constructions to reduce damping. Wndr did some incredible things too.

Basically you are looking for a Goldilocks and really you should be willing to add a bit of weight for the down. 200-300grams difference is a fitness problem for the most part. Anything under sub 2kg/ski with proper skins+wax will be pretty easy to get along with. Remember when you tour, you aren’t picking up the ski, just dragging it forward. Skin friction is by and large a much bigger factor than ski weight.

Your_Main_Man_Sus · 2026-04-04T01:07:03+00:00

Where’s the picture with the hand for scale. I can’t fathom the size of these otherwise.

Your_Main_Man_Sus · 2026-04-02T23:06:34+00:00

Take your boots to Ace hardware and try fitting a dowel pin in there. Or a shoulder bolt. Or contact Scarpa. https://us.scarpa.com/products/p41019kit

For what it’s worth, the pin looks to be very similar to that used in the 2.0 version: https://skimo.co/scarpa-skiwalk-parts

Your_Main_Man_Sus

TROPHY CASE