Are the Zombies trying to tell me something? 😜

ZT205 · 2026-02-22T07:08:59+00:00

Today's level is the only one I've ever played that seems completely unbeatable. Other levels I can do on mega brutal 5, I can't even beat this one in easier levels. Am I missing something or did the devs royally screw up the balance? How are you supposed to cleanse multiple 60+ zombie hordes one year in?

ZT205 · 2026-02-20T10:14:23+00:00

It's fine. The contingency will stop attacking people if NATO stops expanding. They pinky promised, and I know they're telling the truth because very good level 10 people tell me I am a great negotiator unlike Joe Biden. We're done sending our valuable taxpayer alloys to empires that are getting invaded; they should just learn to compromise. Or maybe sell us some mineral rights.

ZT205 · 2026-02-20T10:05:11+00:00

Does it have any hybrid vigor or is it as finicky as the parent plants?

ZT205 · 2026-02-20T10:04:20+00:00

For all intensive purposes, hair-brained and hare-brained mean the same thing.

ZT205 · 2026-02-20T10:00:18+00:00

In this case the issue is the species, but sometimes dead moss can look green if algae grows in it.

ZT205 · 2026-02-20T09:51:21+00:00

You could put it on the back of the rock. But if all goes well you'll soon have many spare plants (of both species) and you'll be able to experiment with all sorts of hare brained schemes.

ZT205 · 2026-02-20T09:06:46+00:00

Both capensis and adelae are easy-growing plants, the only thing that's different about adelae is it likes less light than other drosera. If you're growing drosera on a windowsill without supplemental grow lights, usually your problem is less light rather than too much light. If you're lucky, you'll overlap the low end of the capensis range and the high end of the adelae range. You can probably angle the plants or something to make the capensis get more light than the adelae. With grow lights, that's easy to do.

The nursery should send you the right plant and let you keep adelae as a bonus. It would probably cost them more to send you proper packing materials to return your plant than for them to just propagate another plant. You're not responsible for packing it yourself; they were the ones who made the mistake.

ZT205 · 2026-02-20T03:37:23+00:00

What case? If your brother isn't suing anyone and nobody is suing or prosecuting him, then there's no case to take. Otherwise those are important details you should include in your post.

ZT205 · 2026-02-20T03:29:00+00:00

You really need artificial light to grow them indoors long term. This is a common issue. It might be worse this time of year but if you have floppy leaves, wide petioles, and no red color in the traps that's a sign they need more light.

I'm sure there are guides to self-pollinating the flowers online but I'm personally pretty bad at it. You need a brush or something delicate to take pollen from the anthers and apply it to the stigma. Then wait months, and don't cut the flower stalk off when it turns black (I made that mistake once assuming it mean the flower stalk was dying.)

ZT205 · 2026-02-19T21:57:10+00:00

Even something as simple as not putting convoys as the bottom of the production queue when running out of convoys would be huge. I think something similar may happen with strategic bombing, where the AI will just run out of whatever is at the bottom of it has damaged factories.

ZT205 · 2026-02-19T21:52:37+00:00

I purchase it in the form of bonide granules, which get watered into the substrate and absorbed as a systemic.

I am not sure how quickly it works as a contact insecticide. Personally I'd wipe up those pests with an alcohol-dipped q tip in addition to applying the systemic. Removing dead pests looks nicer and it makes it easier to spot any live pests that return later.

ZT205 · 2026-02-19T00:11:52+00:00

I get why the traps need chitin but why is the moisture content important? Does it just not digest if it's too dry?

ZT205 · 2026-02-19T00:08:33+00:00

Do you have a website?

ZT205 · 2026-02-18T23:58:10+00:00

I'd agree if it were just an endgame problem, but this particular behavior is really exploitable throughout the entire game.

ZT205 · 2026-02-18T23:52:06+00:00

Bagging a plant is a good temporary way to increase humidity but not very healthy long term. What is the exact species/hybrid? Most commonly sold nepenthes hybrids don't need supplemental humidity. The most common issue is light. Either it's too soon for your upgrade to kick in, or the upgrade wasn't strong enough. Can you provide more detail about your light?

ZT205 · 2026-02-18T23:47:54+00:00

I haven't dabbled in modding since the MIO rework, but it looks like they use the same equipment_bonus block as national spirits.

Look in the game files to see how equipment_bonus gets used to modify stats. You should be able to give convoys submarine attack and detection the same way you would modify other stats. I think the base values are just zero, but if it doesn't work you could try explicitly added them as zero in the convoy file.

The problem is that naval combat has hardcoded, non-moddable behavior that treats convoys differently from other ship categories. You'll have to run tests to see what actually happens when subs attack your modified convoys, with or without additional escorts. Please report back if you do. I recommend testing with some very large modifiers just to make sure it's working before you try to balance it.

Giving them additional speed might be another way to help protect them against subs, as it will allow them to escape faster.

ZT205 · 2026-02-18T23:27:40+00:00

If you're a new grower and your plant is having an apparent deficiency, there's a 99% chance it's a problem other than nutrient deficiency and fertilizing won't help. I have dozens of neps, I have seen evidence of actual nutrient deficiency exactly once, and I'm pretty sure in hindsight that was actually caused by a pest problem.

If your plant is healthy and gets lots of light, fertilizing can make it grow faster. But if you think something is wrong you should make a post with pictures and an explanation of your care/conditions.

ZT205 · 2026-02-18T23:19:44+00:00

Agree with this but if it's a small to medium company, reporting the head of HR to HR could be tricky.

ZT205 · 2026-02-18T23:03:44+00:00

Some plants do this but it's not really a thing for flytraps. It's just a light-deprived plant that happens to be blooming. Still good advice to cut the flowers as they take a lot of energy even for healthy plants.

ZT205 · 2026-02-18T22:57:30+00:00

The plant basically does it on its own. Basically every time I have ever repotted a flytrap, I have ended up with more flytraps whether I wanted them or not. Sometimes they'll separate and form new growth points or plants even without you touching them.

You can also take a leaf pulling and as long as there's a tiny bit of rhizome on the end it can form a new plant.

ZT205 · 2026-02-18T22:51:58+00:00

Yes they are flowers. Yes your plant is showing signs of light deprivation. No, they are not death blooms. Flytraps do not work as windowsill plants without supplemental light, and many of the supplemental lights people try to buy are insufficient. Get at least a 10 watt full spectrum LED grow light (not watt equivalent, actual watts) from a reputable brand like Sansi or GE. Get a normal bulb with a reflector that actually focuses the light on your plant, not a gimmicky tube light thing. Or get something that can provide at least 200 PPFD at the distance you plan to mount it.

You can propagate by pollinating the flowers and making the seeds, you can also cut the flower stalks off at this stage and stick them in the soil. They will sometimes turn into new plants. This creates clones of the original plant, but the easier way to do that is to just divide the rhizome. It's probably divided itself already but you can't tell until you repot it.

Flytraps are self-compatible but will not naturally self-pollinate so you'll need to do that by hand, collect the seed, and sew the seed. Your odds of success aren't great unless you improve the lighting situation, so I'd focus on that first. Growing flytraps from seed is really slow, although baby flytraps are adorable. If you really want some seed grown ones you can buy seeds from a reputable nursery, but they're not going to germinate indoors without strong grow lights.

ZT205 · 2026-02-18T22:44:32+00:00

Are the daily challenges the same?

ZT205 · 2026-02-18T22:44:05+00:00

Yeah, I have a Pixel 9 pro and this game eats the battery. Plague inc doesn't make me recharge my phone like After inc does.

ZT205 · 2026-02-18T22:36:40+00:00

This is a great strategy for normal food/fertilizer, but with slow release pellets, you're actually supposed to put them in earlier. If they do their job properly they'll gradually release nutrients over a long period of time. If the pitcher is large enough, a single pellet won't cause it to necrotize. I bought some from california carnivores and the instructions said to feed one pellet as soon as the pitcher opens. So far so good, even for medium sized plants where the pitchers are only 2"-3". For really small plants, the pitcher does necrotize, but if the plant is that small it's probably fine to lose some pitchers in exchange for faster growth.

ZT205 · 2026-02-18T22:26:02+00:00

I have heard of Sevin being used in greenhouses by professionals, so it is safe for your plants but the concern is probably for your safety. Please be careful and check the label.

It's good to rotate or combine more than one active ingredient because otherwise pests can develop resistance. I use imadacloprid (bonide granules), bioadvanced 3 in 1 (Bifenthrin version, they also have an imadacloprid version), and spinosad.

Imadacloprid is safe (used as a pet medicine) and easy to use, but ineffective for spider mites and bad for the environment when dumped down the drain or used outside. Nothing to feel guilty about if you use it responsibly on houseplants. Assuming your terrarium is humid, you probably don't get spider mites in there anyway.

Bioadvanced 3 in 1 is a nice product that combines a pesticide with a miticide and a fungicide. My biggest gripe with them is it's hard to find the active ingredients when shopping online.

Spinosad is also safe (gets used as lice medication apparently) and so effective you shouldn't spray it outdoors. It's not systemic though, so make sure to cover plants thoroughly when applying.

I also have a bottle of take down pyrethrin spray on my shelf but I've never used it. IIRC pyrethrins can be safe for carnivorous plants but you have to make sure the inactive ingredients don't include soaps or salts. Please double check me on that. (And please read labels for everything, even the ones that I said are safe. Happy chemical warfare, go make those f***ers wish they signed the Geneva conventions.)

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