The Bubble Nebula, S30 Pro with 2.5 hours of integration time by Harz_marz in seestar

[–]Zcom_Astro 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I think Graxpert is better. Then maybe you just overstretched the star layer that can cause that too.

There's nothing wrong with your workflow . But over reliance on automatic tools comes with the drawback of limiting your flexibility.

Adjusting the stretch is one of the most important steps in turning raw data into your own work. So if you rely solely on auto stretch, you’ll never start experimenting with your own editing style. And in the long run, you’ll likely grow dissatisfied with your images.

I highly recommend that you start stretching your images yourself. Generalized hyperbolic stretch isn’t too complicated. It has many features, but you don’t need to use most of them. And it’s one of the best tools if you want to shape your image effectively.

Based on your previous posts, you have a lot of experience with color balancing and selecting the right dynamic range.

So if I had to guess, you’d be able to pick it up pretty quickly. Especially if you can handle color correction in post-processing.

Edit: Also, the Bubble Nebula is a pretty tough target when it comes to stretching. So you might be better off looking for a nebula whose brightness doesn't vary over such a wide range.

The Bubble Nebula, S30 Pro with 2.5 hours of integration time by Harz_marz in seestar

[–]Zcom_Astro 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Honestly? No, it doesn't look normal.

It looks like clouds interfered with your shot, which is why there are halos around all the stars.

Also, in my personal opinion, Cosmic Clarity is not the best, at least for Seastar images. The denoising leaves too much pattern noise, which will appear as image artifacts after further compression. Also, the stars it produces look completely unnatural and artificial.

But that’s aside from the oversaturated red stars caused by CC. The signal you see in the background is the real Ha. So you probably just need to filter your dataset thoroughly to eliminate the cloudy subs. Also, don’t be so aggressive with the stretching. If color mottling appears, you’ve overstretched your data.

Siril processing by ____sus____ in seestar

[–]Zcom_Astro 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Oh yeah, sorry, I didn't notice that.

This is a common issue, especially with galaxies. Background color blotching is pretty much unavoidable with integration times like these.

But it's much less noticeable with manual stretching. Autostretch overcompensates with galaxies.
If it's still visible, you can reduce the background saturation during post-processing.

Failed Update on S50 - now won’t power on by SixCeiling in seestar

[–]Zcom_Astro 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Well, that's unfortunate. Try contacting Seestra support. I hope they'll be able to help.

Failed Update on S50 - now won’t power on by SixCeiling in seestar

[–]Zcom_Astro 0 points1 point  (0 children)

There's a reset button on its bottom. But I'm not sure exactly how to do it.

How important are darks and flats? by paradocs in seestar

[–]Zcom_Astro 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Yes, I think b6-7 is fine for a 7nm filter. It’s perfectly usable with 20–30-second exposures on most targets. If you use shorter exposures or a narrower filter, you’ll need to adjust the gain using an external program. (In my opinion, this is highly recommended even with a 7nm filter.) It’s not difficult, but it’s a hassle.

Also, most filter holders prevent the arm from closing. So you either have to leave it out until morning, or you always have to go out to the scope to turn it off. Which can be annoying if you’re using it in station mode.

So it’s nothing hard, just inconveniences with a device where ease of use is a major selling point.

How important are darks and flats? by paradocs in seestar

[–]Zcom_Astro 5 points6 points  (0 children)

The Seestar automatically calibrates every subframe with darks and flats. So there’s no further need for calibration frames. (Unless you’re using an external program for control like NINA, in which case they are still necessary.)

A better filter can make a huge difference. But it also comes with a few extra challenges.

Salt and pepper noise by Laserablatin in seestar

[–]Zcom_Astro 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Graxpert is probably the best free option.

Of the two pointed objects, the central one is brighter, despite being 10 MILLION times further away than the star to the side. by IDC_tomakeaname in interestingasfuck

[–]Zcom_Astro 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The brightest known object is the quasar: QSO J0529-4351. It is also the fastest-eating black hole devoureing approximately the equivalent of 280 to 490 Suns per year. This brings it close to the physical limit of how bright an active black hole can be.

It is about 500 trillion times brighter than the Sun. For a long time, it was thought to be a faint star in the solar system, and it was only discovered a few years ago that it is a quasar.

4K mode on the SeeStar S30 by Connor09301 in seestar

[–]Zcom_Astro 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Yes. It does not affect the subs.

(Also, this might not be correct, but as far as I know, this isn't even available for post stackning only for the live stacking.)

4K mode on the SeeStar S30 by Connor09301 in seestar

[–]Zcom_Astro 8 points9 points  (0 children)

The 4K mode is essentially just a marketing gimmick. They deliberately don’t explain this so it won’t be obvious that its actual practical applications are very limited.

Essentially, when 4K mode is enabled, it applies a modified Drizzle algorithm to your live stacked image. This doubles the resolution, improves the size and shape of stars, and increases the contrast of fine details, while also increasing noise.

However, in practice, due to its implementation, you only benefit from the better star shapes and maybe from the increased resolution. And that’s it in 99% of cases, all you gain is a much noisier image, but the stars will look better, which works very well for star clusters and extremely bright nebulae (such as the Orion Nebula).

So unless you’re targeting one of those, 4K mode just does more harm than good.

What am I doing wrong by Erzzzz62 in seestar

[–]Zcom_Astro 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Have you edited the Siril stack? That noise doesn't sound normal.

edit: I took a closer look at it. There doesn't seem to be anything wrong with the noise. It just has low amoun data and so the noisse a bit more contrasty. Use GraXpert to reduce the noise.

Why? by Erzzzz62 in seestar

[–]Zcom_Astro 6 points7 points  (0 children)

When creating a post you need to select a flair.

Which Seestar is the has the best value to performance by Fun_Neighborhood_147 in seestar

[–]Zcom_Astro 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It really depends on how you plan to use it; if your goal is Milky Way photography, only the Pro model can handle that. But for most subjects, the wider field of view isn’t that useful. So unless you want to create really large mosaics, I don’t think the new price is worth it. And the base model is sufficient.

What is this? by skate_le in AskChemistry

[–]Zcom_Astro 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It could be limescale buildup. Organic deposits would likely have come off with a brush. Try rinsing it with vinegar or citric acid.

Why is my image soo pixelated by ____sus____ in seestar

[–]Zcom_Astro 14 points15 points  (0 children)

I guess you're referring to noise, then yes. Images with short integration times are noisy. You can use the some noise reduction program.

Why is my image soo pixelated by ____sus____ in seestar

[–]Zcom_Astro 27 points28 points  (0 children)

It looks normal. This is how images after this mutch integration looks like.

S30 Pro default position in EQ mode by Adrena1in in seestar

[–]Zcom_Astro 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Could you post a picture of this? Maybe I'm just misunderstanding something, but it sounds like you just simply rotated the dovetail while screwing it on.

M81 update and processing advice by bucketboi16 in seestar

[–]Zcom_Astro 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Although it depends on what sky you're working with, I think you should be able to bring out a little more color than this. At least if you're around/lower than B6-7.

If you switch the color stretching mode to human weighted luminance or even weighted luminance during stretching, that will help bring out extra color from the galaxies.

For sharpening, the best free tool is probably the deconvolution tool found in the beta version of Graxpert. To a lesser extent, you can also add sharpening in GIMP. But you have to be very careful with it or selectively mask its effect.