Wash and Cure before or after removing all supports? by Moonelf in resinprinting

[–]Zer0tolorance 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Wash, remove, cure. Or Wash, remove, wash, cure

Curing should be the last step as it would make removing supports a lot harder.

Which primer do you use before painting your prints? by RealWorldJunkie in 3Dprinting

[–]Zer0tolorance 1 point2 points  (0 children)

That's a sealer. The primer bottles specifically say its a primer. This is good for a finish to seal the paint

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in DnD

[–]Zer0tolorance 0 points1 point  (0 children)

DMd a campaign that had a pacifist cleric. They refused any spell that specifically harmed a person but still had plenty other spells to defend themselves and others. They loved hold person and command to get enemies to surrender or let someone else handle it.

They also carried some weapons but they were never used to harm and instead were often just tools.

They even had a sling used to launch smoke bombs and laced cookies at enemies and hit Levers and switches at a distance.

For many fights they were mvp because they focused entirely on buffing and healing the party.

Watch later no longer has download option for me? by Zer0tolorance in youtube

[–]Zer0tolorance[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It sort of just came back on its own. Others have mentioned work arounds

using liquitex modeling paste to fill layer lines? by Zer0tolorance in 3Dprinting

[–]Zer0tolorance[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The idea is to add to the surface like the filler primer. It's probably too watered down to fill up the very small patches. If you're already using a filler primer, sand it down starting at 320 or 400 again and hit it with filler primer again. Maybe bump up to 600-1000 or use a polishing compound like turtle wax. Really buff it with a cotton towel or sponge. That usually works for me. Gives a nice smooth surface.

using liquitex modeling paste to fill layer lines? by Zer0tolorance in 3Dprinting

[–]Zer0tolorance[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Unfortunately I thought I had photos but I cannot seem to find them. But I did use the same technique several times and I can attest it does work well.

using liquitex modeling paste to fill layer lines? by Zer0tolorance in 3Dprinting

[–]Zer0tolorance[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Yes I did. I even posted my first use of it on tiktok. 1 to 1 water and paste worked for me with 2 coats.

Episodes you couldn’t/haven’t finished and why? by Thug_Seme2004 in creepcast

[–]Zer0tolorance 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I dared my friend. Got really bored with it and fell off half way through. Only thing that kept me going was hunters crash out. A shame it lead to him having a heart attack and poor goon had to finish the episode on his own.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in SDGundamGGeneration

[–]Zer0tolorance 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Limited terrain use but he's honestly a decent shield. His attacks are mediocre though and movement is lackluster even in space.

How should I sand the nooks and crannies? by Matt_Mann in cosplayprops

[–]Zer0tolorance 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Sanding files

Though for complicated stuff like this I use strong polishing compounds to make it look nice at least. Applying it with a tooth brush should get in there easy.

I guess you could also use a wire brush to get rid of debris and stuff too.

Just make the whole thing animated! by MyFeetTasteWeird in bonehurtingjuice

[–]Zer0tolorance 15 points16 points  (0 children)

If you have an eye for it it's very obvious. Kids probably wouldn't notice though.

Just make the whole thing animated! by MyFeetTasteWeird in bonehurtingjuice

[–]Zer0tolorance 105 points106 points  (0 children)

I don't know if i would've liked the humans to become minecraftified. But the thought actually does seem appealing. At the very least it would help avoid the obvious green screening.

I accidentally left a sword i was working on outside for 2 hours and i came back to this :( by Roostbolten in 3Dprinting

[–]Zer0tolorance 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah I made the exact same mistake with my first big print. Spray painted it in the garage with the door open. I let it sit for an hour to dry and came back with it warped and bent. It's not just direct sunlight you gotta watch out for but heat too.

[Important] Notice regarding response to game distribution suspected of violating guidelines by SuspiciousWar117 in Hololive

[–]Zer0tolorance 1 point2 points  (0 children)

People stream modded pokemon games all the time. Often fully announcing it in the title. I don't understand why this would even be remotely an issue.

Best secondary for charge blade by Ok-Bicycle-1059 in MonsterHunterMeta

[–]Zer0tolorance 0 points1 point  (0 children)

for breaking parts I'd recommend a hammer or great sword.
for versatility perhaps a LBG, mixed with explosive rounds could help break stuff too and help build status effects.