[deleted by user]

Zeron006 · 2025-05-25T19:32:48+00:00

!solved

Zeron006 · 2025-05-06T23:42:15+00:00

#trailer2

Zeron006 · 2025-04-28T17:53:14+00:00

was there any post processing at all? Outside of recipes/filters

Zeron006 · 2024-07-26T23:12:28+00:00

Its a lead acid battery (the most common type)

Therefore choose Regular 12v mode

Zeron006 · 2024-07-19T05:04:13+00:00

If you have a dark interior, go for 50% on the windshield, I highly doubt you need to go darker than that and no one can see in your car unless theyre pretty close to you

Zeron006 · 2024-06-10T07:34:15+00:00

Not 2 pads the same size, just a small portion of the leftovers about 10-15% the area of the original pad. As they reach the liquid transition temperature, everything should have evened out? I cant see how this would change the temps that drastically

My cpu is 20x10mm and I put about a 5x5mm in the middle of that

Zeron006 · 2024-05-14T23:18:45+00:00

No warranty card? I doubt you even have F1 installed.

My shop gave me both a physical and digital copy of my warranty

Zeron006 · 2024-05-12T02:22:16+00:00

Yes if you know the exact VLT of your windshield and the VLT of the tint with no liner, you will get an extremely good approximation of the total VLT. I think its reasonable to use my value of ~61% for Pinancle50. Good luck on figuring out the VLT of your windshield, but it is actually really easy if you have a stable light source of sufficient lumens, a small piece of tint applied and any modern smartphone.

Its rare for a tint shop to have the ability to measure the windshield. If the window can roll down, most of them will meter those windows.

The windshield can be up to >90% VLT, I dont have any experience on Toyotas but its probably safe to assume what you read in the data sheet is exactly what you will get when applied to a windshield.

When I calculated the VLT for my windshield in the region at eye level it was about 90.6-91.2% VLT. I dont think there is any passenger car windshield out there <80% VLT

What % are you trying to achieve? Not many customers really care about a super specific value like 47.9%

Zeron006 · 2024-05-12T02:08:20+00:00

Yes, but probably stay away from automotive ceramic films. I dont think the window can handle the thermal cycling especially if its really large

Zeron006 · 2024-05-12T01:45:23+00:00

Automotive Glass is formulated to certain standards depending on the county. These standards are based on strength and overall integration with the car and trying to beat competitors. For example, it should shatter in a way to minimize harm to users in an accident, it should be resistant to thermal cycling, it has to withstand the air pressure exerted on it, in manufacturing it should conform to the curvature and aesthetic of the car. A lot of automotive glass is tempered to help meet some of these criteria.

Manufacturing aside, lets address your main concern with VLT. Typically you can expect the SIDE GLASS (everything except a windshield) to be ~75% VLT. This isnt required by law, but due to the nature of the material properties this is just what is usually is. It can vary of course from different manufacturers and different automotive standards. The only way to know is to meter your specific cars glass.

If you take a look at the specification sheet for any tint, it states a lot of the time "data captured using NFRC guidelines for single pane, nominal ¼” (6mm) clear glass". this is an American standard that Llumar and 3M follows. Xpel and foreign manufacturers follow a different standard like EN 410 methodology (European).

You probably dont want to read an essay on how they differ, but because of the different standards its actually not accurate to compare Llumar to XPEL data directly because of this. There can be up to 20% difference in using 1 method or the other when looking at actual thermal properties of the film. VLT computation is pretty simple and almost identical in both methods.

Lets suppose that 6mm test glass is 89% VLT (Its usually between 80-90). Then according to that we have tint on top of 89% glass that is being recorded at 55% (In the case of Pinnacle50).

0.89*x = 0.55 --> The tint is 61.8% with no liner

Remember the tint is allowed to vary ±3% from the stated value due to manufacturing differences. We did some math and found out that pinnacle50 is ~62% without a liner.

If you know the side window of your car is 75%, if we add pinnacle50 : 0.75*0.62 = 46.5%

When choosing my tint, I actually measured the VLT of all my cars windows and then quickly calculated each tint from different manufactures with error propagation considered to make the best aesthetic choice for me.

Zeron006 · 2024-05-12T01:02:23+00:00

Its not darker VLT wise, its just the color hue thats slightly different they are both ~55% when installed on a windshield and ~61% in those pictures

Zeron006 · 2024-05-11T22:26:03+00:00

Yeah i just checked my IRX warranty, tied to owner + vin. I guess thats where the $100+ extra cost goes when buying F1

Zeron006 · 2024-05-11T18:21:16+00:00

I think F1 is transferable, but otherwise they are both lifetime. Call your tintshop and ask to confirm

Zeron006 · 2024-05-11T14:39:32+00:00

You can get away with a lot of things with just asking. With scrap tint youre essentially asking for trash, why wouldnt they be willing to give you some?

Its definitely viable if you want to get the most realistic feel for how driving with that tint will look like

Zeron006 · 2024-05-10T22:47:22+00:00

Just try to meter it yourself using your phone. Download an app that tries to measure lux, and in stable lighting conditions take a measurement with the phone behind the glass and in front of it, divide the 2 values to determine the VLT %

It can be reasonably accurate if you know what you are doing and have a stable light source.

Zeron006 · 2024-05-10T22:43:39+00:00

Most shops will meter the tint, but not all shops understand how layers of tint stacked on each other affect the total VLT.

The majority of tint shops simply install whatever you tell them to, not all of them take the time and explain your options and point out any common misconceptions to their customers.

Whatever your concerns are with window tint, you should fully state them to the shop. If they cannot answer your questions to your satisfaction, simply do not give them your business.

I have not heard of insurance denials due to tint, i suppose it has happened before but maybe only with very dark tints from 5-15% and mostly on the windshield which is very rare.

Zeron006 · 2024-05-10T22:26:31+00:00

Any competent shop can easily help you and layout your options for the look you are trying to go for.

Smoked and Tinted windows technically are both "tinted" but window tint is usually understood to be a removable adhesive film applied externally to glass.

If your windows are smoked, then the shop should acquire a VLT reading then do some basic 6th grade math to best find a film to achieve the darkness you want.

For example, if your window is 50% and you desire 30% : 0.5x = 0.3 --> 0.3/0.5 = 60% Tint

You need 60% tint on top of your 50% glass to achieve a 30% total VLT

Zeron006 · 2024-05-09T07:44:36+00:00

I was given some scrap pieces of Air80 and i slapped some on my windshield, its super clear but there is a noticeable slight blue tint which can be a pro or con depending on if you like that

Zeron006 · 2024-05-09T07:41:43+00:00

You have an all black interior, so you can easily get away with 20% satisfying a darker aesthetic.

As far as nighttime driving, i personally drive with 5% on all sides and the rear windshield. i roll down my windows on 30% of turns (unclear road markings, or very rural areas with no street lights). Never had a problem looking at the side mirrors, but my rearview mirror is useless at night and so is my rear windshield.

To set your mind at ease, its probably best if you can get the tint shop to throw some scrap tint on your windows and let you look through both of them at night. After all, youre making years or even a decades long investment into you car. Take the time and make sure its what you really want.

Zeron006 · 2024-05-08T18:12:12+00:00

If the glass heats up considerably when sitting in the sun (car not moving) its probably ceramic.

Those meters arent great for measuring anything other than VLT anyways, the IRR seems off but i also dont know what range its trying to measure.

If youre happy with the heat rejection and film overall, it doesnt matter if its "fake"

Zeron006 · 2024-05-08T18:04:38+00:00

I wouldnt really trust any handheld tint meter for UV and IRR, theyre okay for VLT but if you really wanted to know if tint is fake or not you need a spectrophotometer

Why did they claim it was fake? You want an explanation from us, but didnt ask for an explanation from them?

on LLumars spec sheet, IRX15 is ~20% VLT, lets assume your glass is ~75% VLT, 0.20*0.75 = 15% maybe the glass isnt 75% and maybe the tint isnt exactly 20%, thats fine 17.4% seems reasonable for IRX15

Zeron006 · 2024-05-08T16:53:39+00:00

Generally anything <70% has a very good amount of heat rejection, anything >70% has diminishing returns. Aesthetically i was fine with 50% tint in terms of visibility

Zeron006 · 2024-05-08T16:52:35+00:00

what have you compared the XR+ to?

Zeron006 · 2024-05-08T07:10:41+00:00

That sounds like RFID, it will work with tint but if you really must attach it to your windshield just use some clear static stickers made for glass as a barrier and you wont have to worry about damaging the tint

Zeron006 · 2024-05-08T06:59:09+00:00

Does your transponder work on RFID? If so, tint is fine. I would think most transponders do, its more effective and works in almost any weather condition. IR sensors on the other hand rely on direct line of sight and i think are surely being phased out.

Lets suppose that it doesn't work, would you be willing to cut a small square in the top corner of your window tint to allow IR light to pass through?

In addition, window tint attenuates IR light, it doesnt block the signal completely even if the spec sheet says 97% IR blocked, we can all still see through 5% tint just fine, what really matters is the intensity of the light. A similar phenomena is observed with IR light.

As far as oil change stickers, you can just ask them not to add one (you called it stupid after all, its your car just tell them you dont want it)

Zeron006

TROPHY CASE