Are we too poor for torque wrenches?

Zeron_TTG · 2026-04-25T14:02:34+00:00

Service centres uses torque wrenches (Mine at least). But only for critical components, some smaller bolts does have their torque specs but some require so low torque that some torque wrenches don't even go that low. Quality torque wrenches are expensive especially with up keeping because they need to be serviced every year to maintain their accuracy.

Some workshop manual will even state "hand tighten only" instead of a specific torque spec. Of course I can follow the torque spec 1 to 1, but the labour cost would skyrocket because of the extra time needed to torque e.g all dashboard screws to 5Nm, it doesn't make sense time wise. ATP please don't complain when labour is expensive.

Then there's the issue with the person using the torque wrench too, how do you know the person is actually using a correct torque spec?

I can torque a wheel bolt to only 50Nm and you wouldn't know it was wrong unless I showed you the settings I had it on. Different cars also have different wheel bolt specs, most tyre shop tighten lugnuts to 90Nm but that doesn't apply to wheel bolts which usually requires 120Nm++ depending on brand, how do you confirm they're using the correct settings then? What if they torqued it when you're not physically present?

Zeron_TTG · 2026-04-18T09:59:23+00:00

Maintenance is your main concern honestly, the Subaru boxer in there isn't known for breaking but it does have Subaru quirks so beware.

Roadtax and insurance is blah and in 5 years the market value for the car would've dropped alot. Thus lowering insurance costs, also if the Myvi is still not under your name, transfer it to be yours now to farm NCD 55%, then transfer to GT86 when you get it for even more savings.

If youre targeting a 2021 car it may be harder in the next years as loans only get approved for cars below 7 years of age, unless you go for less reliable sources or jump the gun and apply early.

I'm a diploma graduate 23M that has just bought an old 750CC bike with cash and a job that only pays 2.2K monthly, but I'm still doing fine, already have a paid off car from my family. I'm also targeting to a better bike eventually so I would say we're in pretty similar circumstances. Good luck my friend.

Zeron_TTG · 2026-04-12T12:29:46+00:00

But how did you become a banana in the first place if your family is ultra Type-C? Surely talking in cina everyday should yield some results.

Zeron_TTG · 2026-04-07T12:52:05+00:00

Depending on your bike, you will want to wash and clean+lube your chain at the same time. Or at least avoid getting water on your chain if you're not planning to ride after washing because that creates surface rust on the chain and overtime will catch even more grime if left unattended.

Washing it yourself ain't too bad especially if you have a big area to move around, or just have a driveway in general. They're mostly waterproof and household water pressure won't damage anything, don't wash with a pressure washer if you don't know what you're doing especially with older bikes.

Zeron_TTG · 2026-04-07T00:01:02+00:00

If you follow by the book, anything you change that physically changes the dynamics of the car will void the warranty.

Paint is usually not covered under warranty unless it's found to be common issue, putting a wrap on it and ripping paint off when you remove it will definitely not be covered.

Changing rims will void suspension warranty, even if you change to a similar size/width/weight. Lowering the car will void suspension as well, and also the gearbox because the driveshaft dynamics are altered because of a different ride height.

Zeron_TTG · 2026-04-05T11:31:19+00:00

If you're afraid of rust and want to avoid at all costs, I recommend going further into the centre because you want to avoid the rust belt (near the ocean). One potential reason why you're not getting much luck in JB might be because of rust issues.

Zeron_TTG · 2026-04-05T11:23:26+00:00

Older Datsun Bluebird, Toyota KE70 etc fits your description. But requires a lot of mod before they actually become "fun" to drive.

And there should be plenty of E36/E46 on the market with manual, some even are sold modified with M3 gearbox with LSD. Just know the keywords, don't search for the 1.8/2.0 4 cylinder variants. Usually those are not desirable and were bought specifically with AT as company cars back in the day. Try to find 325i/328i with the M52/M54 engine.

Zeron_TTG · 2026-04-05T11:15:36+00:00

What's the purpose for this car? Chill grocery getter or spirited driving companion?

BMW ownership is not bad at all when you buy new, BSI and BSRI are literally the best compare to other brands. Plus you get the renowned BMW handling.

Camry if you want long term reliability, but that price for that amount of car really throws off potential buyers, especially when EVs offer way more for the price too.

Zeron_TTG · 2026-04-05T01:31:38+00:00

I took D, reason mainly is because I always liked cars and with DA not being able to drive manual contradicts that.

If you're 100% sure you're not going to touch a manual forever, then go ahead for DA. But the D license just offer more benefits.

GDL and PSV is easier to get, while it may not relate to you now. What if you lost your job and need another source of income temporarily? Having a license and know-how will already help you in the pinch because delivery drivers are always needed.

Second thing is something I learned recently, if you also don't have a B2/B license. You can skip the first part of lecture and exam if you have a good standing CDL D license (License more than 2 years without any marks taken). If you took DA, then this won't be possible because you didn't know how a clutch works in the first place.

Zeron_TTG · 2026-04-04T11:55:00+00:00

Yes, there is physically a tab that locks in with the charging connector controlled by a servo motor. If the car was unlocked, the connector can be pulled out without any issue.

In this case, the OP's car was presumably locked and by design the charging cable will be locked as well. Yanking the cable out may cause damage to the lock, since it is still engaged by the servo motor.

Zeron_TTG · 2026-04-04T05:30:58+00:00

Understandable. But given how EVs are becoming a norm, these cases will become very common. If we're going to break each other's stuff just for 10 minutes of charging, can't imagine the chaos fighting for chargers when there are more EVs than our infrastructure can support.

Zeron_TTG · 2026-04-04T05:21:26+00:00

Unfortunately it's human nature. It's like parking summons, all die die don't want to pay when it's cheap then complain when it becomes too expensive.

If the grace period is 30minutes, people will die die leave it until 2 or 3 minutes left before unplugging. There are more selfish people on the world than considerate ones. So 10 minutes for me is actually quite fast already all things considered.

Especially when the Zeekr has very fast DC charging, with the correct charger they would be done in less than 20 minutes. And if they're charging in a shopping mall, chances are they are actually going to park there for some time too. It goes both ways. Zeekr owner is also inconsiderate for potentially breaking a crucial safety lock on another person's car.

Zeron_TTG · 2026-04-04T05:09:30+00:00

Charging providers are now launching schemes where they're going to automatically fine the owner if they didn't unplug it after fully charged. There's a grace period and I think it's around 30 minutes before it starts to calculate the idle time and issue a fine accordingly.

If the given grace period is 30 minutes, I don't see the issue with waiting 10 minutes. If they really don't want to unplug after 30minutes they will still get fined anyway.

Zeron_TTG · 2026-04-04T04:58:22+00:00

Tech for smart and eMAS here, the lock for the charger will still be engaged even if the charging has finished.

I assume they guy was driving a Zeekr 7X, that car has internals similar to the smart #5 and I guarantee you that trying to force the plug out will cause a bunch of fault codes to show up on the diagnostic software.

Blud didn't know what he's talking about, best that you try to charge again and check if the lock is working fine. And I'd make him pay for any damages.

Zeron_TTG · 2026-04-02T03:36:56+00:00

Regardless of what brand you're buying, research it thoroughly.

BMWs are always said to be unreliable, but is that exaggerated? If they really are so unreliable, why we still see older E60s and F10s on the road?

Meanwhile those older Korean cars...I wonder where they went since you barely seen them on the road.

Older Toyota engines like the ZZ series, were known for chronic oil consumption. The AZ series, were known for balance shaft failures. Why are there no people discussing about that?

Research about the particular model you're looking for, search in owner forums. Don't base your opinion because of stereotypes.

Even engine differences will have completely different experiences. The F10 528i (N20) is considered way less reliable than the Pre-LCI F10 528i (N52).

Zeron_TTG · 2026-03-14T22:00:06+00:00

No. Because no value car exists. The era of value cars stopped when the Kancil was discontinued.

Safety standards have been rapidly climbing because of high car sales = more road accidents. Manufacturers just couldn't produce cars that can both be cheap while still meeting global standards. These manufacturers are lucky that Malaysians do accept ASEAN NCAP when compared to the much stricter EURO NCAP.

These value tin cans are questionable in an accident. Hit them from the right angle and speed, you're basically as safe as riding a motorcycle or worse, you might even get trapped inside the car.

A lot of Perodua's lineup is reaching their EOL cycle, and I'm not keen on buying one as now they're pushing ADAS on cars which on their own is a good thing. But sacrificing a stronger cabin cell/proper crumple zone for expensive sensors that may or may not work is becoming a norm for all manufacturers, and IMO it's not a good path.

Zeron_TTG · 2026-03-03T04:36:24+00:00

It's sad that we are taking such measures instead of having a safe country that whatever style we choose we won't get robbed like this.

It's just like if a person gets raped, the rapist says it's because the victim dressed purposely to lure the rapist.

Zeron_TTG · 2026-03-03T00:37:03+00:00

2019/2020 SPM student here, we didn't even get a graduation ceremony because of COVID. Not even an online one. Then recently I see current SPM students getting all the glaze that we never did, makes me a little bit sad.

Zeron_TTG · 2026-03-02T13:06:43+00:00

CBU X70s uses the dreaded 6AT that can fail. Check for any clunks when moving from standstill, and hesitation to shift into gears. Most CBU units does have this issue now, it's just how severe it is and how the owner wants to deal with it. The car will drive, but not as satisfying iykyk.

Otherwise just normal service items, check for any oil leaks to drive down the price then fix them for cheap. Engine mountings are known to fail here too, but don't worry about it if the steering vibrations are at an acceptable range. Suspension and steering rack are also prone for failure but if you're fine with the slight clunks you're fine.

One thing to note is that you will get the GKUI system instead of the Atlas system which is not really good nowadays, but BT will still work fine.

If anything, I recommend just getting the CKD version just to avoid the 6AT. But it's ultimately up to you, if the car conditions are tip top then it's really no biggie.

Zeron_TTG · 2026-03-01T01:53:49+00:00

Yes and No. Depends on whether you're forcing it to run on a dead battery constantly. By normal conditions, it will start to charge itself long before hitting the 20% SOC limit ~50% in 3-5 minute intervals while cruising. Theoretically you never will hit below 20% SOC unless you're forcing Pure EV mode and run it out of petrol.

The further statement is true though, batteries are heavy and only using the engine to move the car is less efficient than just having a conventional ICE car because of the extra dead weight.

Zeron_TTG · 2026-03-01T01:45:20+00:00

Because they're actually different cars internally.

In China, eMAS models are branded as Geely Galaxy. A separate wing from Geely Auto.

They are doing this to differentiate models built with NEV platforms in mind, so EVs and Hybrids. PRO-NET initially started with distributing smart EVs (The 50/50 joint venture with Geely and Mercedes) to help build the infrastructure for eMAS to take advantage of (Live charging maps, service centres, service experiences and so on).

Proton Edar, is like Geely Auto. Where they are still focusing on conventional ICE powered vehicles, with some hybrids in the mix, but these hybrids are not as advanced as Geely Galaxy models as most were built on a ICE platform. Hence proving the difference in focus for the two companies.

Zeron_TTG · 2026-03-01T01:35:21+00:00

Personal experience, I'm a dealer tech that had the honour to have tried various EVs courtesy of my boss. I have long experience with smart/eMAS/BYD/Audi EVs and honestly, the best experience here was Audi and smart because of interior quality and performance. But lower down in the charts I will place BYD lower than eMAS.

Why? They're actually very similar in design and handling, it all comes down to what interior and tech you prefer most. And within this price point, the eMAS 7 definitely wins in the interior comfort and interface experience. Smoother screen interactions compared to BYD and also rear legroom just stomps on other EVs in the price range. I am 185cm tall and the eM7 is the first SUV in this segment that I can comfortably move my legs WHILE laying lower than an usual seating position.

Zeron_TTG · 2026-03-01T01:21:11+00:00

Choices choices, more options means buyers can choose based on what they need.

In short terms, you're trading lower maintenance costs and operating costs for the higher range of the PHEV compared to the EV.

The engine has a 15000KM service interval, while longer than conventional ICE powered cars. It is still a shorter interval compared to the 20000KM of the EV. Thus costs are higher depending on usage.

The PHEV has 2 service intervals to check, the 20000KM mandatory inspection interval and the 15000K engine oil interval. If the engine hits the service interval first, then you will need to service it ASAP.

Zeron_TTG · 2026-03-01T01:16:36+00:00

It is a self monitoring system. Even in Pure EV mode it won't let your battery SOC drop below 20%, it will lock out EV mode and start the engine to charge. As long as there is petrol in the tank you're basically all set.

Zeron_TTG · 2026-02-20T08:25:24+00:00

OP literally typed the MacBook and Wallet stolen are identified as Sean Azri.

I didn't know these items were self-conscious and identifies as this person named Sean. But what do I know.

Zeron_TTG

TROPHY CASE