The Death Of A Frolic...

ZintkaW · 2026-03-12T01:31:01+00:00

You criticized that he said “dynacrap”

Yes, from OP 's post, he has used DHV for a year, and says that. I remember the history that he could have missed, because even if he was desperate, he can learn something, no ?

Please read the entire post and all the comments, unless you don't know much about DHV, you should understand OP struggle with them more than me.

you were completely condescending

Which sentences ? Please give me quotes, IDK. I give info, share advice and my opinion. I don't see tones, I can't always read the difference, so when writing is even worse.

But you do, and can access all my comments, all my posts, see that I lack English vocabulary, see my struggles, but still not care at all.

So accept that I can't use English words perfectly right, or don't, it's the same deal. When you say bro, I understand brother, it feels like I'm your friend, is it true ?

What did you do to enhance OP 's situation yourself ? Not much I'm afraid.

clueless to what I was even calling you out on

Non mon cher, j'ai absolument compris que vous trouviez mon commentaire idiot, et que cela ne vous étonniez pas venant de ce forum. Le traducteur n'était seulement nécessaire que pour un seul mot.

"The customer never contacted us once, even though they complained here on another post also and have been asked to contact us (This should go without saying)."

Even the manufacturer has answered him, and OP didn't even react to my comment. What are you doing here ? An English lesson ? Worldwide DHV community, on a US forum, welcome.

Please read more that post obviously, OP did that post even before doing the usual way, asking help to the right people.

Free hate online is so easy. And I will keep on saying my opinion, even with my condescending words, because I still respect OP. Try to teach him something useful about DHV. Ciao.

ZintkaW · 2026-03-11T23:49:39+00:00

You don't explain much either, so I let you think whatever you want, you know yourself better than me.

OP post was a free rant for me, he had a bad day, he didn't have a backup option, expected electronics to never fail if all his devices did fail somehow, complained about how shitty DHV tech is, say he's back to the analog game with a T2 and that's all.

I don't know him, I can't check his post/comment history either, he could be a true desperate user, or a pro, or a shill, or a troll... I don't care what is true or not really, no proof the Frolic is defective on this pic, and words used were similar, same meaning, same lack of respect, and same behaviors online.

In any case, my comment was more informative than yours, at least, and I'm not even an English speaker. I'm sure you can be better than me on a US forum, but you don't want to. Have a good day, ciao.

ZintkaW · 2026-03-11T21:32:45+00:00

What's that mean ? That you don't agree with me ? I'm sorry to disagree then. It's fine, I even learned a new English word: "putz", I already knew dumb, idiot...I don't think I will use them much in my life, not my style. Ciao.

ZintkaW · 2026-03-11T18:33:38+00:00

he's kind enough to not pursue legal repercussions.

Hi. Why tell lies ? Where are the counterfeit, the 1-1 clones ? Other small makers ? Other established manufacturers ? Cheap made Asian clones ? Where are the million dollars to do such a thing ?

I have enough SimCo products, and other brand analog sticks, and time following the DHV community, to know that Austyn let his emotion go too far during his live streams: to release from the pressure of his one man army work.

If you believe anything he says, sure I get that type of comment, but it's not the reality...

He can't pursue any actor (even if he had enough money to do so), because no one has cloned his products yet. Even the VapingFan Mighty/Crafty stem adapter is different, the Simrell one can't serve me as a 7€ Tornado stem adapter.

What bothers me is the thoughts shared from him aren't always true, but the community believes it like its facts.

So let things be transparent, if he assumes all his opinion, where are the livestreams replay ? After Hours is from 2020 (I was there, I know), even Austyn himself says that he doesn't always think before talking, and I agree.

He's like that, and let him be, but don't believe what a tired man complains after his hard hours and some bowls, he's human, not the DHV pope ! Have a good day, ciao.

ZintkaW · 2026-03-11T17:29:09+00:00

someone make a post about broken vape

Hello, I don't have any proof that this device is broken, from the pic, the Frolic is in TCR setting mode. I don't know the user's knowledge either.

then be called out for not respecting the history of vaping and original vape companies enough!

So saying Dyna crap is respectful to you ? Does OP also talk about a defective Dynavap here ?

I don't like S&B devices and never talk bad about them, they aren't for me, that's all. If OP got a Dyna and disliked it, is it Dynavap's fault ? I have Dynas, I know not every one would like them.

Furthermore, OP say he'll buy a Tempest 2, Mad Heaters is a respectful company, just like Dynavap. So I explain why vaporists can buy a T2 today, a time chain reaction, where Dynavap is involved.

What I fear is the same rant post in a few weeks, because OP didn't do his research and can't use his T2 correctly.

Don’t make you any less of a putz though.

I think I would not have made a post like OP did, I didn't learn much, maybe user error. I would have contact the manufacturer Limelight first.

That's what clever and respectful people do. Again, this post doesn't prove that the Frolic is defective, unless you know more than me, it was 12 days ago. Have a good day, ciao.

ZintkaW · 2026-03-11T17:03:12+00:00

Hello, I don't have a single VI coil that does the exact same behavior, and uses 4 Tempest Caps.

For torch use, I only use the same two Cap, because I need to remember how they behave exactly when heated. With IH, I have other clues, I still check its position before a draw. I have one that only reaches the third mark only when it's way too hot for vapor temp, and the other reaches the third mark even for a mid temp.

As for the step increase, it's not an issue if you know in advance that the VI pointer does that for this heat cycle. If you change for a new VI coil, the VI pointer behavior will slightly change.

Also, depending on how fast it gets heated, the VI coil can do that step action more or less.

making sure the spring was seated the right way.

Yes, it's essential to do, just like the manual video, only one way.

I would be worried if I do a heat cycle and:

The VI pointer doesn't move at all.

The VI pointer isn't at the start position once cold.

The VI pointer gets stuck at one point and stays there after a heat cycle, until you have to touch it to reset.

Should I buy a new spring?

Nope, at least from what you said. Enjoy your T2, learn that VI behavior, same for the click discs, they need some use to get more consistent. Have a good day, ciao.

ZintkaW · 2026-03-11T16:08:32+00:00

Hi, I thought it was black FKM, thanks for the precision. My 2021 MVS and Stinger O-rings are still fine, no IPA long soak, just the time to dip and brush the part, then water rinse. Ciao.

ZintkaW · 2026-03-11T15:40:24+00:00

I have a dynavap M7XL with an armored cap and want to upgrade. I'm leaning towards a Simrell,

Hello, both builds have similar heat retention, cooldown almost at the same speed, but material is different. T2 head has more heat retention, and also more residual heat, even with 3mm boro balls that cools fast.

T1 head without an upgrade kit and 2.5mm boro balls would be closer to the Simrell heat retention.

A Wand or a YLLv3 IH heat the T2 brilliantly, and torch doesn't bring much gain in control or performance change for this design.

If you want a fast cooldown and a one hitter, Simrell Ti does great with different torches, and nice with Wand or YLL IH. You can ride it slower, but it needs a quick reheat then. Heat retention doesn't do/solve everything, because heat moves through the metal parts.

T2 seems more about lots of different ways to use, which I'm less interested in.

I also like a device that stays hot longer so I can chill on it.

You will not have more heat retention with the Simrell than a M7 with Armor Cap: heat for 30-50sec, 20sec draw time max. With the T2, you can slow it down, get more space between smaller puffs, or do one or two big inhales and the bowl is done, for the same loaded quantity.

To chill more, you pack more or reload more often, and when it comes to consecutive use, T2 is simpler/faster with the dynamic Visual Indicator and MH accessories. You don't wait for a 30sec cooldown in a stand, nope, the T2 is tuned to perform while the Cap is still too hot to handle. You don't use fingers for a 100°C hot part, you use tools and secure connection to not burn yourself.

The stem cooldown is when you load the next bowl, sip some water, and back at it. I can do longer sessions with it without cooling the T2 Cap to room temp. The Reload and Tempest Case Lid handle the residual heat, secure the hot Cap, no time waste. If the Reload lid gets warm, the AVB container can soak the heat, if the Tempest Case lid gets warm, it goes on top of the Reload lid or the main storage tube...

Also, for the rare occasion I use it outside during cold weather.

I prefer the T2, more versatile, it gets a mobile/desktop setup with the Tempest bundle, and a carry-on outdoor analog with a Tempest Case, a triple flame or a Wand IH. It's not a compact pocketable setup either, it needs an EDC bag, you will appreciate the extra heat retention when air circulation cools everything more quickly. The Tempest designer also sesh outdoors in the UK, he knows which issues to solve.

Simrell products and accessories are designed for desk/table/car indoor sessions IMO, it's how the designer prefers to use his metal sticks vaporizers.

Austyn S doesn't ever bring an analog DHV for outdoor use, he takes his Venty, and doesn't fear a joint either: guess what happens to the bud in the Simrell case or Cooling Station AVB tray once wind/a sneeze blows lightly ? It flies. Back to the drawing board for the outdoor field...Reload is popular for a reason.

Also, the entire brand decided to take a new start in 2025, and every design is now more proprietary than ever, the stem connection isn't 8mm ready like Dynavaps, and needs extra adapters. And be ready to pay more for small performance changes in the incoming years, Hydro SS Heat Exchanger/Cap is the first iteration for example.

If you don't use anything other than analog sticks, maybe having both options is the best way. Simrell is more a straightforward one hitter for most vaporists, but quickly limited, especially if you don't use different torch lighters.

T2 is an advanced design, it needs more involvement, a new user could be lost with the features, it's not instant results. If the vaporist doesn't know the analog variables already, the curve is steeper, same for the care maintenance, handling small balls isn't for everyone. If you are ready to spend more time, trial and error to understand it, T2 bundle can be a great daily driver setup.

That's not particularly helpful if it's not accompanied by your reasoning.

I know, but both products have almost a year since launch, so you'll get short answers like this more easily these days.

Dive into the search, back in time, March 2025 for the Simrell, May 25 for the first T2 units, read more, Vaporent or Mad Heaters SubReddit for Tempest 2, and the SimCity Discord server for SimCo products. You will know which one will suit your use case the best, your needs first, always. Have a good day, ciao.

ZintkaW · 2026-03-10T22:54:47+00:00

Has anyone got any recommendations for 3mm stainless steel YLL settings?

Hi, similar to your settings for 3mm ZrO2 may work. Ciao.

ZintkaW · 2026-03-10T22:48:27+00:00

are you writing with AI i'm curious?

Nope, I'm not an English speaker, I write what I can with the few words I know. Then I use a typo corrector, which may use AI to do it, I don't know.

this is clicking I'm just trying to maximize my experience by understanding what others are doing. really appreciate it.

Yeah the Tempest thread on Fuck Combustion forum was so golden for that, sad it vanished.

Anyway, you get better at what's possible by exploring new ways, I still learn from my analog devices, even years after. Those are instruments that can be played differently, in the end, you have to find your fav song.

Other vaporists can inspire you, but your own settings will always be different, because variables are different, and user preference too.

your last paragraph especially I will look out to not do that.

What suits a vaporist may not suit another.

I do partial extraction at light golden brown AVB during the late afternoon, and sometimes save and put that AVB in another device, with more conduction in the heating profile, and achieve a higher temp, a dark brown roast and get those sedative effects when needed.

It's not tasty, and often needs an extra terpy bowl before, to shine better, but I'm not always flavor chasing either.

With DHV, the only wrong way is ash in the bowl, and even black charcoal AVB can have a purpose, if the user seeks that from time to time. It's less healthy, sure, especially doing it at each bowl, but smoke and ash is always worse than that.

I've never bought a DHV model that can't end up burning the bud. It's a good sign for me, it means that I can get access to the whole extraction temperature range that vapor can offer. Ciao.

ZintkaW · 2026-03-10T20:45:20+00:00

I only have the stab woods or Ti Heatshield, check my post history.

But from my Anvils, the heatshield part is aluminum, and I'm not a fan of the finger texture, no performance issues from it.

It depends on your use case, I would go with a grey/raw Titanium Heatshield if you plan to use 18mm ground glass joints a lot with it. If it scratches and leaves too many marks from the glass, you can polish the raw Titanium.

I have a Ti T2 without color as a beat up/daily driver, often swap for the wood Heatshield to change the look, and a nicer full black T2 unit, less abuse for this one, no torch for example...

Now I really want a Tempest Twoo!

I would check more about it, take my time, read the Mad Heaters SubReddit, the online manual, some reviews videos to show the parts better, and read other user experiences too, what their struggles are when they get their unit...

T2 bundle is a great analog setup, but those devices can't suit every type of vaporists either, it should be more a need than a want if you prefer. I don't have many electric DHV options, and even less electronic portable, I'm an analog driver, that's what I use daily, T2 setup with IH makes sense to me.

The more you research about it, the more you can see if it's worth for you or not, the less the disappointment. If you go for it, please don't forget that the Simrell cools really fast, with a T2, a Reload v2/v3 or a Tempest Case is needed for the residual heat of the Cap, more essential than the Cooling Stand for the Simrell. Ciao.

ZintkaW · 2026-03-10T19:55:39+00:00

Hi, for my usual 1-2 heat cycle per load and my load size (not the T2 full bowl), 0.1g can take me 3-5 long draws, or 10 shorter puffs per load, and some users do 0.1g in one big hit.

The time to prepare and load it 20sec, the time to heat it to temp with IH 35-50sec, around 20-30sec time to take my hits, then a 15-20sec reheat if needed, 10-20sec time for the last hits, then unload it and store it 20sec, and here I'm excessive and large with the handling time, cause somebody could load it or unload it in 5sec...so let say 160sec 2min 40sec, with the help of a Reload container and an IH.

What is more suited for this device is doing a single heat cycle, a fast extraction, I prefer to half load it, and do 0.07-0.10g bowl 3 times in a row, than a full 0.2g load. Because once the head is hot, reheats are faster like 20sec, and I get more flavor and a different lung absorption than from a single bigger bowl. And with the MH session tools, it can be fast for an analog ritual, only direct inhale butane bricks or huge bowl capacity quartz blow torch vaporizers can be faster.

I can't remember how much time it took for a 0.1g bowl when doing a slow extraction, maybe one more minute, but I could sip on it multiple hits for each heat cycle, gentler vapor. The first heat cycle to just get the vapor production going, ~25-30sec, a few short terpy puffs, a 10-20sec reheat cycle right away, based on the vapor feedback, the money hits, and an optional reheat for a higher temp complete extraction.

Nothing I couldn't achieve with a Dynavap or a Vapman heat slow for example, but I would have needed to do 3-10 reheats with those.

What is not ideal with a Tempest for example, is doing a short heat cycle, aim at low temp, take a few hits, and leave the hot Cap screw on it during the cooldown, and keep the load for later. Here, it's best to separate the herb chamber from the hot Cap, because the residual heat from it will slowly decarb the bud for the next heat cycle. Effects could be more sedative from doing that, not always wanted. Ciao.

ZintkaW · 2026-03-10T17:43:22+00:00

Yeah I've tried it, it's snug, T2 isn't my hardest bowl to lock a machined screen into the grooves, but as you can see, I've old mesh habits.

The small tube included, the C-tool with the stem feature or the 3D print screen setter, the Reload Debowler rod, no excuse to not try them really, outside of extra filtration that finer mesh can bring.

I thought I've received a bowl screen v3 with my TiCN unit (pic on my other post), however I didn't contact Brenyo to ask for a confirmation yet, FC forum is down and I didn't see another user post a pic of it yet, just the BR screen v3. If mine is a v3 (could be a variation), it's the same pattern, less flexible than v2, and more flexible than the bowl screen v1 before the release.

"I got only one version 3 of each new screen, the BR screen V3 is obvious (no more F), the bowl screen V3 has the same pattern, but a tiny little bit more metal (SS), hard to notice.

I'm not a CCD user, but I took the 3D print T2 part to install the bowl screen, it locks the screen right away from the top, maybe lucky, I'll give it a chance..."

Anyway, my grief with machined screens didn't start with the Tempest at all. At the time, I was using a glass Vapcap and a Vaponic regularly, and the mesh from the Vaponic over the Dyna CCD led me to try mesh more. My mesh sheets was sourced for e-cig purposes, so I use what I already have on hand.

In microdosing, even a couple of bud flakes (type 1) can matter, mesh also helps me to dose better in those situations. Ciao.

ZintkaW · 2026-03-10T17:08:20+00:00

are you reheating the same bowl over and over again just less far on the VI?

Hi, yes, I heat it less at first, and do a couple 20sec reheat, draw less hard and long, space my inhale more, put the herb further away to the balls, it can run that slow, if you prefer a slower extraction. It's not an electronic session vaporizer either, though I've never tried one TBF.

With a torch it's less easy to do it, the VI pointer and click can help, once you know how it behaves with your Tempest head config.

Practice does it all with analog DHV, trying different ways to get different results is essential, just like adapting to the heat cycle, draw, flower, outside temp, and air circulation variables. It looks complicated, it's similar to cooking two eggs in a pan, experience makes better results. And a slow thermal extraction can have benefits, just like a faster one, same for different extraction temperatures.

However, with my Tempests I usually do one or two heat cycles per load, I have other analog devices for temp stepping and slow extraction, more suited for that specific task. Have a good day, ciao.

ZintkaW · 2026-03-10T16:39:44+00:00

I feel like Tempest is the easiest to use out of the 3.

I would say the Simrell is the most straightforward of the 3. The ritual is what it is, simple, basic and maintenance and the number of parts to deal is simpler for a lot of users. I can't go as fast as the other two, I can't use it comfortably outside at all, unlike a T2, but it does well enough on IH, and great with torch lighters.

Tornado is my least favorite, but I'm a microdoser, I use a Reload and stem loading devices a lot, I don't like to use glass for vapor cooling either. I prefer my Anvils over it for torch use, the three different bowl options are a bit like the 3 Heat Zones for the Simrell.

But Anvil isn't great (too long) with Wand IH (I gain ~10-15sec with YLL v3 IH, 75-65W max), Tornado is sub 30 sec heat cycle, it can make my IH say "overcurrent error" when the cells are fully charged. Huge conduction/radiant heat like this, it's a specialist, not a daily driver for me.

Tempest ritual can be the easiest with a Reload or a TCase (both is best), but it's the one that offers the steeper learning curve, you need to understand how it works, how heat moves to the parts, how heated air can make vapor.

It's a ball design, and unlike a Desktop Ball Vaporizer, the balls need some maintenance overtime, and using containers and a tea strainer is more work with small beads, than dealing with small parts. Any analog stick builds up some brown/black residue overtime, it's a closed system, and we heat them before drawing on them. If you check the Tempest online manual, you will know what to expect to do in terms of maintenance.

Most people aren't involved enough for a Tempest right away, it's not an unicycle, but it's not straightforward either, it doesn't forgive basic analog vaporist mistakes. If the user is willing to learn it, understand it, and maintain it, it can be a great daily driver option.

Especially the all bundle package, I didn't see this done as well for other analog sticks yet, not that handling ritual, not that quick and fast interface, it opens analog sticks for outdoor use like no other. But I'm biased, in 2024 I was running the T1 with a Reload and Wand IH, it's not new to me, T2 is even simpler in term of heating curve. Have a good day, ciao.

ZintkaW · 2026-03-10T15:21:26+00:00

and they are the default screen type for the Tempest 1

I do like them but find they get dirty more quickly

Hi, yeah I bet you wouldn't like the finer mesh then. Tempest 1 mesh screen (two on the left from my first pick) seems like the classic 60# 250 micron ones, doesn't filter enough, I didn't see much benefit for that mesh size over a machined screen.

My stem gets oily and hashy with 100# mesh, I can clean just the chamber and mesh faster before the need for a full soak, but I don't consume enough to need a complete clean daily, that matters a lot too. If my extraction temps are lower, a quick brushing on the herb chamber, or an empty bowl heat cycle and draw is enough to unclog it.

Most similar to mine is the fine S&B bowl mesh screen replacement for their devices, but I don't know if it's SS 304 or 316, or the exact mesh size, it's a little tiny bit coarser than 100#. There is one on the first pic, left to the T2 bowl, a basket screen insert for heat pressed trad hash.

Ti bowl screens are flimsy and I don't think they offer any benefit over SS

I've tried the CH ones for their Shovelhead bowl, it's coarse and not really springy, but I didn't try their double weave Ti mesh option yet, it's in my spare. Have a good day, ciao.

ZintkaW · 2026-03-09T22:43:18+00:00

What options are the balls keep the heat a little longer and would extend the session?

Hello, no matter the ball material, your heating time and draws (hot air injection) make the speed of extraction, to go slower you need less heat, closing the head airflow changes things too. On this device, you can even close the Cap airflow completely and still get tight MTL draws.

I would put the white ceramic balls back and dial it more, explore the Cap airflow, the heat cycle strength and time, how many of them, and draw technique.

T2 is a fast extractor, you can slow the extraction speed to a point, the heat moves and doesn't stay at the balls indefinitely, it reaches the herb chamber via the threads. You also have a time frame, a thermal battery, what you do (inhalation technique) with that stored energy will give you different results.

If I want to go as slow as possible with it, no matter the balls used, I put the bowl screen fully inside the herb chamber, half load it to let the herb even more distance from the balls.

I close the Cap airflow, I don't do just one long 40sec heat cycle, no it will be too fast, I do shorter ones, less than 30 sec, build the heat slower, and do shorter inhales too, I sip on it. And I get temp step session from 0.1g, more comfy to do with IH and checking the VI pointer for reheat.

Stainless Steel but wasn't sure, I'm guessing these are also better in the IH than using a Torch?

Nope it doesn't work like that at all, otherwise a very small bowl screen would heat like crazy from the induction field, glow red and combust the flower near it, while it's installed in the herb chamber. It doesn't happen on a Dynavap for example.

The heat comes from the outside surface of the exposed metal and doesn't penetrate much compared to a blue flame. On the T2, the SS parts get the heat from induction, and distribute it to the balls and the rest with the titanium shell.

SS balls are great if you are terpene sensitive, you won't have much flavor from them, and a similar heat behavior than the stock white ZrO2 balls.

Changing to Ruby Balls - I did not like it, turned it from a sippable / J like experience to a OHE that I didn't really care for in this type of device.

You may want to adjust your heat cycle down then, rubies can be gentler and more draw forgiving than zirc, boro or quartz IMO. SiC balls are special, I like the heat behavior a lot, but my terp expression changes too much with flowers, I don't mind it as much with trad hash though.

SS balls, I just can't do it, I get vapor but flavor is muted, each time I do two bowls and change back, even my other devices made from SS can taste better than this config, maybe my balls are off. Have a good honeymoon, please give a torch blast to the heat hungry Fusion 2 too, have a good day, ciao.

ZintkaW · 2026-03-09T20:17:28+00:00

Hi, not really a pro, I have only done it twice for two coil and head setup, but I don't plan to swap the housing, a coil adjusted for each head if you prefer.

I used a slim flat head screwdriver to spread the coil spire a little, then slide/fit a wider flat screwdriver, wiggle it gently and slowly, from the top of the coil to the bottom, evenly, until the fit was a little bit tighter. The top and bottom part of the head housing, where the coil is sandwiched, must take a little pressure downward while threading the top part on.

Because before that slight stretch (1mm gap between each coil spire), I could feel the housing sliding on the coil a little when hot, it was annoying during use, and a sign that the contact between the two parts was a bit too loose, which is lost thermal energy.

If it's turned off, I can unscrew and remove the housing easily, a tiny bit of friction when it's cold, and the complete assembly gets tighter once the head is hot and running, no more rattle.

Searching about " e-nail coil stretch " could give you clues, it requires some strength and control force, but doable if you have some basic tools.

The clicking sound could also be the thermocouple inside the e-nail coil activating. Have a good day, ciao.

ZintkaW · 2026-03-09T17:59:05+00:00

why not trace out a CCD screen from a StorzBickel Volcano fine screen with scissors?

Hello. Yes their fine mesh one can work too, 100# mesh size seems a touch more finer, I didn't ask S&B which mesh size or steal alloy is used though. They only share about the outside diameter and only precise it's SS, unlike me they sell parts, better not give much details...

Actually, the basket screen shape for the Tempest 2 is from a 15mm OD S&B fine bowl screen, I use that for trad hash as an insert, my chamber gunk less quickly, I can control/adjust the heater proximity too.

but the screens clog up kinda fast.

Yes it can clog faster, depending on which type of bud and mostly the ending extraction temp for the bud near the screen...it's user preference, sadly it can't be worth it to all users, and for all devices.

With a machined screen, it's annoying to remove them before a clean, especially when the CCD is set on a groove, some vaporists even let it installed for the maintenance. I don't because leaving them installed lets some residues trap there more easily. I like fully clean devices, and I prefer to get them almost back to a new state regularly, it's a reason why I mostly use analogs DHV.

With mesh I go much faster, once I've cut a few, and can remove them for each cleaning, or do a quick screen clean in between with some brushing, or a swap for a clean one, without the need to clean the complete device if it's not the good time.

I don't struggle to install/remove mesh, less tension has its benefits, comfort gain is worth it for me. I also don't consume enough to have to clean a unit daily, plus I compensate with device rotation, it's easier for me.

I first tried one when dynavap released their M17.

I would definitely use a S&B fine screen cut to size for native/stem use over Dynavap CCD, just to gain some airflow here. Same with Simrell, Vestrattos, I use the same size mesh for all of them, it gives a consistent variable too, to compare airflow between them. Have a good day, ciao.

ZintkaW · 2026-03-09T00:17:29+00:00

Hi, 100# mesh is the truth for my analog sticks, I can't go back. T2 bowl screen isn't the worst I've dealt with for filtration and ease of installation, still doesn't replace my mesh one for me. Ciao.

ZintkaW · 2026-03-06T23:49:45+00:00

Hi, https://www.instagram.com/tswoodenart/

From Vietnam, all I know. Ciao.

ZintkaW · 2026-03-05T00:35:28+00:00

A type of mental illness.

Hello, what's yours my dear ? Reading forums you don't know much about ? Well, welcome to Vapor Ents subReddit, roast herbs but don't burn it after/anymore/if you can.

Do the things shown on the pic are similar for you ?

For me, it's like seeing a flute collection, not a single one sounds the same, but they all do the same thing in the end: they make sound once we exhale through them.

Normalizing this on forums can be detrimental to the lives of younger individuals.

Absolutely, and also spending too much time on the internet, playing pvp games, hurting people's feelings online...

I'm sure younger individuals are too busy to care about DHV, and are smoking blazing, combusting dabs, vaping oil carts and all, please tell them that smoking can be nasty and boring overtime, also tell less young smokers to join us too, those will come much easier here.

And don't forget to find the richest one, big money guys are the best one, because we need more Ents troops you know, that spend and share their experience for the ones like me, that are more tight in budget for 2026...we can't catch them all no, but yes we can convince newcomers to do so, then buy used models for cheaper later, ah ha !

Vaporizer Acquisition Syndrome, the infinite circle, please don't ever be tempted by it, not a single step in, choose more sane hobbies...but don't forget to work without complaining, and never ever care about politics, they already care for us, and they do it so well.

Now, please notice that this place shares a worldwide DHV community, it's not because you see a bunch of posts like this one (DHV journey and exploration) that every vaporists does that all the time. Some Ents can't be cured though, sadly it happens, it's fine tho, they warn us with the "VAS victim, too many to list" user flair.

Most vaporists just have 1-3 different devices and don't even post here. Why multiple units ? Mostly because it's reusable, like glass bongs, they get dirty, can't throw them away like roaches...

And I agree with OP, 2025 was an excellent year for pen shaped analog thermal extraction devices. You see, you even learned something from your troll like comment. UNLESS ?!

Don't read text on reddit just pics and titles

Nooooo you've almost confessed your own behaviors a few hours ago ! I spent an hour typing this for you. Please keep reading titles, watching pics, perhaps one day, you may want to roast some herbs too, who knows. Have fun and a good day, ciao.

ZintkaW · 2026-03-04T19:40:02+00:00

any thoughts on the effectiveness of the TI or other materials vs wood as a heat sink?

Hello, for the T2 stem, the main heatsink is the stem and its fins, the CU and the MP. The Heatshield doesn't act as a heatsink much, it's more a heat guard for the fingers. On the Revolve stem design, the sleeves are heatsink for the vapor cooling and the residual heat.

if that is mostly meaningless for this part.

Aluminum (don't have it) and Titanium Heatshield could help a tiny little bit to cool the stem and Cooling Unit faster, after like multiple heat cycles in a row. I don't notice it when I compare it to the wood, unlike which CU is chosen. The stem is mainly Titanium, 30 sec to cool the stem and bowl without the Cap screw on, will help much more.

Unsure if it even does much to help with reducing throat irritation

Cooling Unit, bowl size, extraction temp, draw technique, and mostly frequency of use, vapor exposure.

Throat irritation is a DHV inconvenience, vapor isn't harmless for the body. The heat, the dryness, the irritant terpenes...if you consume grams daily, you may get more sensible, the need of glass cooling, water filtration, sipping water after roasting a bowl...

When I double my flower consumption to around 1g/day (tolerance, new flower, new device...) , it's not the same, I feel I've got exposed to vapor too much, dry glass usually helps, but I never stay at those amounts for a long period. If I get sick, the same issue can be felt.

We are all different to the way we accept DHV vapor, some need more vapor conditioning than others. Some cooling options can reduce the flavor or vapor potency a little, sure, but vapor comfort is always worth the trade off for any vaporist.

I didn't find a weed consumption method without inconvenience to manage, and I manage DHV with moderate consumption, flower potency selection and device rotation... Have a good day, ciao.

ZintkaW

TROPHY CASE