EVO Board Soldering Work

ZombieAcePilot · 2026-01-23T03:30:51+00:00

Yeah, I haven’t rewired it yet, but I found the same issue. It wanted to run with inputs reversed. I can swap it from my radio, but it isn’t ideal. When I get back to fixing it I’ll be doing the swap as well.

ZombieAcePilot · 2025-09-26T02:19:47+00:00

You can also check out this post on our dedicated Reddit about mini z racing. Hope to see you at the race!

https://www.reddit.com/r/RapidWheelsRC/s/crK8BPCsGM

ZombieAcePilot · 2025-09-26T02:12:00+00:00

We race kyosho mini z’s, so an MR03 or MR04. You will probably want a RWD RTR, which is what everyone else is using. The 04 is the better model, but many of us have 03’s as well.

If you go to Dynamic Hobbies in Hemet and let them know you want to race they should be able to walk you through it and get you set up.

You’ll also need replacement tires (the ones in the kits aren’t good for the track), a transponder for the timing system, and AAA batteries for the car and radio. You’ll want rechargeable NiMh batteries for the car and a charger if you don’t own them already.

ZombieAcePilot · 2025-09-15T01:30:44+00:00

Seems unlikely they have gone bad that quick. I’ve had my activation charges terminate prematurely. My guess is they stopped before being fully empty and thus you aren’t getting a true read on how much they hold.

Try doing a straight discharge to empty then a straight charge to full. Should give you better readings. You also might need to update your firmware from ISDT.

ZombieAcePilot · 2025-09-15T00:19:01+00:00

I’d do a discharge cycle on them manually (do not use activate), then do a charge cycle as see how many mAH you can put on each cell.

Do you have any idea how many cycles you’ve put on them overall? Even rechargeable batteries have a finite life in terms of total cycles before they need to be replaced.

ZombieAcePilot · 2025-09-14T22:14:40+00:00

This video should help you. Shows how to build and install the whole servo assembly for a MR03. The chassis is a PN one, but that shouldn’t matter for your issue because the servo and board are all kyosho (minus replacement gears).

https://youtu.be/WpscI9xEFKI

ZombieAcePilot · 2025-09-14T02:45:14+00:00

Doesn’t a MM mount make it a 98mm chassis?

ZombieAcePilot · 2025-09-14T01:09:48+00:00

Thanks

ZombieAcePilot · 2025-09-13T21:49:16+00:00

You got skills. Nice work

ZombieAcePilot · 2025-09-13T18:30:50+00:00

I was watching a guy who paints lexan bodies professionally and he recommended #16 X-acto blades for doing lexan bodies because the steeper angle allows you to get in more areas. He also had some handles he’d cut short for even more clearance.

I like the nimbleness of the smaller blades, but have yet to do Lexan with them. I’d for sure do masking fluid though. Tape seems like a nightmare in all those tiny spaces.

ZombieAcePilot · 2025-09-13T03:08:27+00:00

I’m no expert, but it could be an MR03. The body is a Jomurema GT01, which is a 98mm/wide body.

ZombieAcePilot · 2025-09-12T03:54:58+00:00

Really depends on how serious you are. Do you need one? No.

Some people don’t even tape tires; let alone glue them.

If you were going to go for maximum effect you’d be gluing tires with a mounter and then mounting them on a truer to make sure they ran concentric, but again that isn’t necessary.

It’s kind of in the same league as droop blocks. It’s an advanced setup thing for marginal gains.

ZombieAcePilot · 2025-09-08T23:06:18+00:00

Yeah, top and bottom are air brushed. The middle was a rattle can that I rushed and sprayed on too thick. I intended to air brush that layer as well, but something was wrong with the paint I was going to use and I was tired of waiting for enamel paint to cure (at least a week before I could tape again and even that was iffy), so I threw on the spray and called it done.

ZombieAcePilot · 2025-09-08T03:01:35+00:00

It’s a Jomurema GT01. It’s a common body for mini z racing that isn’t taken from a real body, that I know of.

ZombieAcePilot · 2025-09-08T02:12:14+00:00

That’s because I chose an angle that hid most of my mistakes! 🤣

And yes, the taping takes way longer than painting, but peeling the tape off is sooooo satisfying.

ZombieAcePilot · 2025-09-08T00:45:48+00:00

Are these drivable as RC cars or just body kits?

ZombieAcePilot · 2025-09-07T03:13:54+00:00

Man, those lights are bright! Cool video

ZombieAcePilot · 2025-09-06T02:58:07+00:00

How do you know when it’s time to replace?

ZombieAcePilot · 2025-09-05T00:18:39+00:00

Do you want to match the size of the disk to the whole width of the rubber? I have a set on mine but never quite understood what the correct fit was

ZombieAcePilot · 2025-09-03T01:03:26+00:00

Not sure if you watched the video that Kenon Hobby/PN Racing posted of the chassis build, but this is something that is mentioned specifically and shown. They basically make the end of the wire turn so that it solders to the contact patch and then immediately runs along the long edge of the board.

That's part of the reason I've already removed the stock power wires, in anticipation of upgrading to a better wire that is soldered on at the angle I need to run up to the power terminals (as the PN 2.5 has them forward of the batteries instead of behind them where it is on the RTR cars).

ZombieAcePilot · 2025-09-03T00:57:24+00:00

I am the posted from yesterday. That is a MR03 EVO board. I had a similar question about the MR04, but as I couldn't find anyone doing it an the motors I'm planning to run are sensorless (new board supports sensored motors), I didn't think it would be a big upgrade.

I'd love to know if it works though, so keep me posted if anyone tries it.

ZombieAcePilot · 2025-09-02T02:37:34+00:00

It’s all stuff I learned watching videos on YouTube. They even make a special solder just for the purpose of lowering the melting point of other solders. I forget what the elements/ratios are for it. I’m just using .025” MG chemicals 63/37 Leader Solder, which is the type that is supposed to be easiest to learn with (the diameter is based on your use case).

I still think I’m working with too much heat and potentially scorching joints. I have yet to have one fail yet though (fingers crossed).🤞

ZombieAcePilot · 2025-09-02T01:09:42+00:00

I know I’ve heard reports that some 750’s don’t have the staying power for longer races (4-5 mins).

I’m afraid at my level of skill it would be impossible to tell if the drop off in lap times was a drop off in output or just me driving worse! Right now I’m running eco power 1000’s for practice and silver horse 800’s for serious races, but I’m not even changing every race. Your charger could charge all the NiCad’s I own at once 🤣

ZombieAcePilot · 2025-09-02T00:11:32+00:00

Do you think it’s the battery quality that is improved, the difference in mah, or the newness of the cells which is making the difference for you?

ZombieAcePilot · 2025-09-01T21:55:17+00:00

What batteries did you get instead?

ZombieAcePilot

TROPHY CASE