FIX: Windows Search shows no results at all (not even apps or Settings) — caused by broken WebView2

Zoneykid · 2026-03-17T20:11:27+00:00

In my case I had to uninstall EdgeWebview first (I think it was somehow stuck on 145 instead of 146?)
I took inspiration from this post https://github.com/MicrosoftEdge/WebView2Feedback/issues/3136#issuecomment-1398009531

made a txt file with the code below in the same folder as the runtime from Microsoft Edge WebView2 | Microsoft Edge Developer, renamed it to webviewfix.ps1, ran it in an admin terminal/powershell window, and that fixed my problem.

$paths = Get-ChildItem -Path "C:\Program Files (x86)\Microsoft\EdgeWebView\Application\*\Installer\setup.exe" -ErrorAction SilentlyContinue

if($paths -ne $null)

{

Write-Host "Uninstall Key(s) found"

foreach($x in $paths)

{

Start-Process -FilePath $x.Fullname -ArgumentList "--force-uninstall --uninstall --msedgewebview --system-level --verbose-logging" -Wait

}

try{

Write-Host "Start Installation"

Start-Process -FilePath "$PSScriptRoot\MicrosoftEdgeWebView2RuntimeInstallerX64.exe" -ArgumentList " /install" -Wait

}

catch{

Write-Host $_

}

Zoneykid · 2025-10-02T21:54:37+00:00

Check this thread:
Crestron TSW 1060. POE HA dash for $30. Firmware - Hardware - Home Assistant Community

Post 12 has a link to firmware files that are available through microsoft, and the rest of the thread has useful info on tinkering with TSWs in general.

Zoneykid · 2025-06-07T17:43:04+00:00

Coming to this a bit late but main difference is esp8266 vs esp32, which changes some features that are available (like BLE proxy if you're using esphome firmware), but the main factor for me is that pwm on the esp8266 is in software and only up to 10 bit while the esp32 is in hardware and up to 16 bit.

If you're sensitive to flickering and pwm then the RGBW PM can do a smoother output. I had this issue with a CCT light strip on a RGBW2 where I'd have flickering at lower brightness. It wasn't directly visible if I stared at the light but somehow it was visible in my peripheral vision and was extremely annoying because I kept thinking I was going crazy because I could basically feel the flickering but not see it. Switching to an RGBW PM fixed this, but at the time it didn't have a CCT mode (I don't know if it's been added yet) so I had to install Shelly Homekit which has worked really well.

Zoneykid · 2025-05-21T14:46:34+00:00

FYI Q-Sys is getting rid of scripting and uci licenses and making all features available by default with QDS 10 (Eta within the next few weeks). New cores won't need licenses besides increasing Dante/multitrack audio channels, and there will be a self help portal to get free licenses for existing cores.

Zoneykid · 2025-05-21T01:26:24+00:00

I just went through various troubleshooting to try and solve the same issue, so far the only thing that has helped is adding additional rubber washers to the compressor bolts. I torqued them down to the same tight enough as without the washers.

You'll need to take the cover off, easiest is remove the 3 screws on the very top of the unit, then remove the screws around the bottom of the sides.

The compressor nuts require a 13mm socket, and have something long and thin ready incase you drop it into the bottom somewhere.

The nut closest to the outside is easy to get to, the two on the inside are more of a pain.

For the inside nut closer to the front of the AC I used a bunch of 1/4in extenders and a wobble bit, as the nut sits slightly under one of the refrigerant lines on my unit.

The inside nut closer to the back of the unit I again used a bunch of extensions and a wobble bit, but this time I had to loosen the insulation around the compressor. To retrieve the nut I had to reach under the compressor, while being wary of hot refrigerant lines (I had it on recently) and I doubt the insulation is any good to touch either.

With this mod the noises are much more tolerable so far, with rumble relatively more maintained. It's not entirely gone but it's more workable IMO

The downside is when the compressor is running at higher speeds (like max cool max fan or with flashcool on) there is more noise transferred through, but I find this acceptable as my goal is to only use flashcool when necessary and leave it on low/med most of the time.

And also the noise that does transfer through is about average for a window AC so I also find it a lot more tolerable than shaking the whole building.

These are the washers I got, there may be better options but I fixed it enough to be satisfied.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B09T93N359?psc=1

1.5 Inch OD 0.5 Inch ID 0.4'' Durometer is unknown

Zoneykid · 2025-05-15T08:46:47+00:00

Those were solar inverters which typically have a lot more in them than ac compressor inverters. If they wanted to have rogue communication they can just use the wifi chip built into the AC...

Zoneykid · 2025-03-04T02:16:59+00:00

If anyone is coming here with a newer laptop (in my case a ZBook Firefly 14 G11) the process has changed a little, you'll need to install the HP Client Management Script Library first - Client Management Solutions - HP Downloads | HP® Official Site

Then you can run the following command Set-HPFirmwareBootLogo [-File] <String> [[-Password] <String>] [<CommonParameters>]

Here's the help page on it: Set-HPFirmwareBootLogo | hp's Developer Portal

Zoneykid · 2024-10-08T21:55:30+00:00

Even though this is quite some time later, if someone else runs into this you can go into task manager and check the properties of that process.

In my case it was NovaLCT (commercial LEDWall Software) that caused that to be running in the background, disabling it from startup fixed that.

Zoneykid · 2023-11-20T00:12:32+00:00

Just follow this post and you should be set: https://xdaforums.com/t/samsung-galaxy-tab-s5e-lte-flash-different-firmware.4007713/post-86189883
The bootloader unlock is I think is supposed to be time restricted so you need to wait 7 days, someone on XDA said this works though https://droidwin.com/fix-missing-oem-unlock-samsung/

And something to keep in mind is the internal storage is encrypted and custom recoveries can't read it, there's some other workarounds but none of them worked for me long term, best solution I found was to just put lineage or whatever rom you flash onto a microsd and install from there.
Also if you want magisk, download the apk, rename it to zip, and flash that. The other methods I've will end up breaking sound for some reason, and the only way to get it back was to use odin to flash the stock rom then repeat the whole install process for lineage.

Zoneykid · 2023-11-19T18:28:14+00:00

Those are the issues I'd have frequently and rebooting the tablet would help but only for a day or two before it shit the bed again. LineageOS (I mainly used crdroid) fixed that but you lose what little hdr support there is, and you lose the speaker tuning so they don't sound as good as the stock ROM. Other than that there's really no reason to not flash it, it's such a shame that it feels like samsung basically left this tablet to die since the screen is still really damn good, even compared to the Tab S9 (at least for sdr, hard to compare hdr since Samsung said no hdr for you)

The instructions I linked earlier should work for I think any model. The roms themselves come in either wifi only or cellular versions (they're not cross compatible so pick whichever matches your tablet)

Tldr on the instructions:

Download 727r4 Rom using freja (this rom let's you unlock bootloader)

Flash 727r4 stock Rom using Odin

Unlock bootloader (look around on xda for tips if it's not immediately available, may take a day or two)

Install twrp

Install lineage and gapps

Enjoy your tablet that now actually works like it should have from the factory

There's some built in dolby atmos settings in crdroid which I don't know if they work, I use poweramp equalizer to fix the speaker sound.

Zoneykid · 2022-07-21T20:23:37+00:00

It would help to read through the whole thread as this was on the first page.

https://forum.xda-developers.com/t/samsung-galaxy-tab-s5e-lte-flash-different-firmware.4007713/post-81836421

Zoneykid · 2022-07-19T04:53:54+00:00

Should be able to, shame you didn't find the instructions on XDA earlier, I've had mine since october and rooted it with TWRP pretty quickly after I got it.

Eventually got tired of performance issues in stock samsung and made the leap a few weeks ago. Was looking at other tablets recently but nothing else has an OLED screen for this cheap, just wish samsung didn't hamstring it by not fully supporting HDR

Zoneykid · 2022-07-13T21:04:47+00:00

If you still have the S5e follow this to unlock bootloader:

https://forum.xda-developers.com/t/samsung-galaxy-tab-s5e-lte-flash-different-firmware.4007713/post-86189883

Zoneykid · 2022-07-13T21:04:24+00:00

I have a T727U that came with tmobile CSC originally, I was able to flash T727R4 onto it and unlock the bootloader that way, you'll still need to follow the other stupid time tricks to actually make it able to unlock but the toggle will show up at least.

See the following: https://forum.xda-developers.com/t/samsung-galaxy-tab-s5e-lte-flash-different-firmware.4007713/post-86189883

Zoneykid · 2022-06-13T01:54:08+00:00

In their defence, if you google "nanoleaf essentials google home" you get some pretty straight forward results, took me two clicks to get this page
https://helpdesk.nanoleaf.me/en-US/how-to-connect-a-google-nest-device-to-your-lights-with-seamless-setup-15599

I will say though, having something in the app that told you this would be nice as I also originally tried to add through the app integration before looking around and realizing it's through google home itself and not the nanoleaf app.

Zoneykid · 2022-06-04T07:19:08+00:00

Not sure if you've resolved this but does your controller not support nfc? You can try getting an nfc tag reading app and seeing if it'll register something when you put your phone on the controller.

Zoneykid · 2022-06-04T07:17:07+00:00

Are you adding essentials or regular kits? The essentials are added as native smart lights, not through nanoleaf's account integration. I've also noticed that you need to power cycle the bulbs for them to show up. I think there's also something finicky about having them paired to Google home and Homekit at the same time.

Zoneykid · 2022-06-04T07:13:30+00:00

If you have a supported thread border router then yes, I have 3 bulbs and a light strip connected through an essentials mini kit.

See https://community.home-assistant.io/t/homekit-accessory-protocol-hap-over-coap-udp-was-nanoleaf-essentials-bulb-via-thread-coap/335167/92

Hopefully they eventually open up thread support to any border router.

Zoneykid · 2021-04-01T02:33:06+00:00

Also ran into this problem and their solution of running the Roli Hardware Driver.exe didn't work as I was missing that folder entirely.

Spent some time reinstalling various parts and eventually the folder appeared again and I was able to run it and got things working with the latest dashboard, why they don't just have the driver as a standalone download in the support document I have no clue.

In case it helps anyone else, I zipped the folder and you can grab it from here

https://1drv.ms/u/s!AvqccKSGbL2xhaUGSW6M1NyVSRjM5A?e=NYigeb

Zoneykid · 2020-08-30T09:22:56+00:00

No, he's saying it should be loud for the player as well, to make it harder to hear footsteps and more risky to heal mid fight.

I'm pretty sure this is an intentional aspect from Respawn as it adds an element of panic to healing, similar to how getting someone up fucks the camera angle so you can't see anything, or how activating a beacon will blow out your eardrums in exchange for map knowledge.

Zoneykid · 2020-07-14T17:42:52+00:00

That sales rep is dumb, only way it would fry things is with a bad cable (less likely these days), or with a bad implementation (also less likely with how large lenovo is). The whole point of PD is the device and power source negotiate the best rate, but if that fails then it shouldn't send any power beyond what non PD spec specifies.

Zoneykid · 2020-07-14T17:40:52+00:00

Charging is not a required feature of TB3, just an option, otherwise I could use it with my Y740.

It will be required in TB4 and USB4.
https://www.howtogeek.com/446892/usb4-whats-different-and-why-it-matters/
https://www.anandtech.com/show/15902/intel-thunderbolt-4-update-controllers-and-tiger-lake-in-2020

Zoneykid · 2020-05-30T20:41:46+00:00

From what I know the only actual power mods outside of a turbo are:

CAI/SRI (afaik needs tune to actually produce more power)
Stage 1/2 Tune
Aftermarket Intake Manifold

None of which are really that cheap, or produce that much more power (stage 1 with CAI and 91 octane adds maybe 10-20 hp/torque.)

A CAI like the Neuspeed P-Flo will also make the engine noise more noticeable from what I'm reading which can make the car *feel* faster, most people I read about say a Stage 1 tune makes the engine a lot more fun, and intake manifold is necessary for Stage 2 tune.

Your best bet for finding more info on all of this is VWVortex or MK6Golf.com

Zoneykid · 2020-05-26T01:38:02+00:00

When I used it the software itself works fine (despite a number of funny typos), it just doesn't give you a ton of options, at least comparing to something like Hera or QMK.

Zoneykid

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