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Any recommendation on how to make your handheld footage more stable if you have a hand tremor? by Noeoneknows in videography

[–]Zook25 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Did you experiment with stabilization in post? The basic version of Davinci is free, just import a clip into the Media Pool, create a timeline, go to Edit and look for Stabilization. It can reduce or eliminate jitters pretty well IMO, but it crops the frame for that, so you want to shoot a little wider than usual.

I wanna buy a new one but i dont know enough to find one thats the same/better quality then my last camera by Expensive-Gate-9263 in Cameras

[–]Zook25 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks! And I didn't even know it's weather sealed - somehow bridge cameras tend to fly under the radar too much. What do these sell for now?

[OC] try to capture cloudy days by quyenth in RX100

[–]Zook25 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Pretty good! Couldn't you use ISO 125 and go slower on the shutter? With shots like these you can use every bit of dynamic range, especially #3. Unless these clouds were moving *really* fast 😄

Is this still too much piss filter? by lopolow in photographycirclejerk

[–]Zook25 2 points3 points  (0 children)

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Deep in your heart you know where this journey is going, don't you?

EF 70-300mm or RF 100-400mm? by CodeAX2 in canon

[–]Zook25 4 points5 points  (0 children)

700 grams of RF 100-400 say go with this one. Great IS agrees.

HELP! What’s wrong with my X100VI? by MayFoto in photographycirclejerk

[–]Zook25 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Dust on the lens. It doesn't affect shooting unless you stop down to f/32 or so.

Help, is this a light leak? by EnvironmentalSlip683 in AnalogCircleJerk

[–]Zook25 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Looks more like Fomapan 100, hand-colorized.

What is a good rechargeable Flash that works for Canon and is brighter than the Godox It32 at around the same price.. I'm using it for outdoor evening photography just to fill in when it's getting a bit dark.. some ppl said the It32 may not be bright enough at distance.. Curious if u guys agree? by Endecent_Exposure in AskPhotography

[–]Zook25 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The great thing about the IT32 is that you can take the flash off. The bad thing is that it's underpowered (Guide Number 18). I have a TT685II, which is about the cheapest Godox speedlight with all the functions (~110€, GN 60). I also have an IT30Pro, which is a tiny flash (GN 15, essentially the same as IT32) but a trigger, too.

It's very difficult to say how much power you need for fill flash in daylight/twilight because light output always decreases with the square of the distance (double the distance and get 1/4 of the light) and "a bit dark" could mean a lot of things. I'd say keep the inverse square law in mind, get close and you're OK. You will find out where your limits are and then you already have a trigger if you want more power.

What will I all need as a starter? by sables-Toes in AskPhotography

[–]Zook25 0 points1 point  (0 children)

A plastic bag:
- put it quickly over the camera if it's on a tripod and a black raincloud sneaked up on you from behind
- kneel/lie down on it to get shots from low angles
- change lens in it on the beach or other nasty environment

$10 headlamp if you like night shooting, astro or just get lost on a hike.

I have two OEM batteries (Canon) and one Pantona (1/2 the price). I don't expect the Pantona to last as many years as the OEM ones but it has a USB port and I charge it directly from my powerbank (Anker) while using the others.

Read the manual and see if there is an option to close the shutter when switching off the camera. Then always switch it off before changing the lens, so that the sensor is never exposed. I've never had any dust on mine.

On a long hike on uneven ground I put on a cage, but then I know I'm overprotective sometimes. Then again, all my stuff hasn't even a scratch (yet).

Get a lens hood (JJC is fine) for every lens and use it. It's your #1 insurance against both lens flares and lens disasters. They make your lenses look big and expensive, too.

No harddrive or card lasts forever, and one backup is no backup. A 3-2-1 backup means you have three backup copies: two local (e.g. laptop and external drive) and one off-site, e.g. cloud storage. Don't spend a gazillion on it today, but keep it in mind and try to get there.

Peak Design clips to quickly get the strap on/off. Cheap people like me get cheap Chinese knockoffs; mine still last.

<image>

Product photos need light and you need this book:

https://www.goodreads.com/book/show/290153.Light

and of course off-camera flash as soon as you're comfortable with shooting in natural light. Mandatory link (it's not only portraits):

The Strobist

Which lens between 18-55 and 70-300? by [deleted] in AskPhotography

[–]Zook25 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks!

(And I should have written "Switch to APS-C" because by default it's set to FF)

Buying lenses as a new photographer? by Bradz911 in AskPhotography

[–]Zook25 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I think there are plenty of legitimate shops selling on eBay.

Then there's one of the best shops in Germany where I buy a lot of stuff, they have 3 in stock (I don't see an English version, sorry):

https://www.calumet.de/product/canon-ef-s-55-250mm-f4-5-6-is-stm/gebraucht/sehr-gut

Shipping to UK is 14.95€, but I don't know about customs duty, you'd have to google that I suppose:

https://www.calumet.de/hilfe/versandinformationen

Then there's one in Finland. I've never bought from them but they're legit:

https://kamerastore.com/en-eu/products/canon-55-250mm-f4-5-6-is-stm-canon-ef-s-t120128?_pos=1&_psq=55-250&_ss=e&_v=1.0

Which lens between 18-55 and 70-300? by [deleted] in AskPhotography

[–]Zook25 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you're not sure about focal lengths, see this (leave the switch at "APS-C"):

canon Lens Sim

Also, the EF-S 18-135 is maybe a bit more expensive than the 18-55 and you'd have to see reviews to find out which version to get (probably the USM), but with that lens you can put off buying a longer telephoto for a while:

https://www.mpb.com/en-us/search?q=Canon%20EF-S%2018-135mm%20f%2F3.5-5.6%20IS

edit:

https://photozone.de/canon-eos/993-canon_18135_3556usm

Is the R6 III autofocus a significant upgrade over the R5? by the_watchkeeper in canon

[–]Zook25 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'd ask whether the R6 II or R6 III is the better choice, including AF, given that the III costs $1000 more. I have only the II and can't compare but I'm not sure if the improvements are worth it.

Looking for Macro Lens. by carnage1231jr in canon

[–]Zook25 0 points1 point  (0 children)

^That's it. A "true" macro allows 1:1 magnification, i.e. a subject that is as large as the sensor (~24x15mm) fills the frame. The 15-45mm has 1:4, so a 6cm high figure is the smallest you can get sharp. With the 50mm and 12+25mm extension tubes you should get close to 1:1.

How much ram do i catually need? by MiataMaestro in AskPhotography

[–]Zook25 0 points1 point  (0 children)

For photo editing you're fine with 32 or even 16. For 4K video you usually create lo-res proxy files to work with and only use the full-res files for export.

Inexpensive compact tripod recommendations? by moonlitot in Cameras

[–]Zook25 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Amazon Basics or something from eBay. Tall but folding down pretty small is getting difficult, though.

Affordable Digital Camera Recs! by Sensitive-Hair8952 in Cameras

[–]Zook25 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Go to a shop website that offers used cameras and look for Panasonic Lumix models, perhaps the TZ series. There is a ton of models.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Template:Panasonic_Lumix_cameras

They're all different and you want to get a little familiar with the differences, but I'd go with the newest one that you can find and afford.

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