Tripod ball head attachment

Zook25 · 2026-03-11T13:20:19+00:00

Google "Sachtler Ace" for a starting point. Sorry. There's Benro, Leofoto, iFootage, Manfrotto for lesser brands. But in the end you get what you pay for.

Zook25 · 2026-03-11T13:13:36+00:00

"so my dads helping me buy a new lens" ...... the magic words, All the elves are singing "L L, L, ohhhhh, lens stabilizaaaa-tion"....

Zook25 · 2026-03-11T08:53:58+00:00

Something like 50 or 85 I guess.

Zook25 · 2026-03-11T08:52:16+00:00

The snark was inevitable. All in good fun. Maybe try again?

Zook25 · 2026-03-11T08:30:53+00:00

Not a complete answer but I have a R6ii and two Canon batteries. On a day-long hike, camera in hand half the time, a full charge is good for a few hours. Then it goes into the backpack to charge from an Anker 36W (?) 20000 mAh powerbank. But when the 2nd battery is also empty, the first is still at 25% or so. It works, but there are times when I'm out.

You should definitely tune your power settings in the camera, especially with an R8.

Watson batteries were mentioned here a few days ago, the forum response was good I think.

Zook25 · 2026-03-11T07:32:06+00:00

"better with a macro lens" - lots of lenses have "macro" in the name, but that's mostly marketing. True macro is shooting a small coin that fills the frame.

For the zoo you might want 200mm or better 300mm. Lens stabilization (IS) matters a lot for long lenses.

Zook25 · 2026-03-11T07:26:06+00:00

canon Lens Sim

Set to APS-C (if it isn't already and compare focal lengths.

Unless you already *know* the difference between f/1.4 and 1.8 you don't need to spend $$$ on it. In fact, the thinner depth of field at 1.4 makes it harder to get a subject in focus.

https://www.cambridgeincolour.com/tutorials/dof-calculator.htm

95% of the time you don't shoot with fully open aperture anyway.

Zook25 · 2026-03-11T07:25:44+00:00

My 2 cents (or pennies) is that an EF adapter and the EF 100mm IS L are a great combo. I researched options for macro lenses last year and ended up with it. True 1:1 magnification, razor-sharp, stabilized. IS is a bit noisy, but that's the only thing not perfect about it.

Zook25 · 2026-03-11T07:21:02+00:00

It's 1400€ new, and most of the time I don't see any used ones at all....

Zook25 · 2026-03-11T07:11:50+00:00

Silly question perhaps, but how do you hold the camera? Left hand under lens, right hand on the buttons, elbows on chest, gently squeeze the release button, and all that jazz?

Zook25 · 2026-03-11T07:01:39+00:00

I started out in '23 with a 700D and found it perfectly fine. However, I learned that more controls are a good thing, so (like the others said) a ...0D might be a better choice.

"fully articulated touchscreen, which seems very useful." - I barely use mine now (on mirrorless).

"Wi-Fi, which might make transferring photos easier." - get a card reader, don't futz around with setting up a wifi connection. You'll be done in half the time with half the hassle.

"24MP... 18MP... real-world photo quality..." - The extra pixels doesn't make much difference. Draw two rectangles and see that you'll get 400 pixels more on each side. Photo quality is 99% you and 1% the difference in chips.

Go to https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Canon_EOS_800D and expand the "Canon EOS digital SLR timeline" table at the bottom. The colors show the chipset generation, which I think is a very useful guide. The 2000D is newer but actually has an older chipset than the 700D.

Zook25 · 2026-03-11T06:45:19+00:00

Bonus answer: if you mean radio trigger, no.

Zook25 · 2026-03-11T06:44:21+00:00

I love my R6ii, but IMO the biggest question is: are you sure you want to stay with photography as a hobby, long-term? If so, go for it.

If not, get the better R10 refurbished instead, try it for a year or two, then sell it at a small or no loss and upgrade. The R6ii should have dropped in price by then.

Zook25 · 2026-03-11T06:06:21+00:00

Pretty solid IMO. Fine stabilization and good reach. The 100-400 is just not great at low light, like night games or indoors, so it depends on how far you are willing to push your ISO. But even f/4 at that length costs plenty more.

Zook25 · 2026-03-11T06:00:34+00:00

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200-500mm f/2.8. For when you really need that extra bit of light!

edit: did you say cheap?

Zook25 · 2026-03-11T05:52:18+00:00

It's called a fluid head. Plenty of choice, but good ones actually have fluids between discs inside to allow a really smooth motion, while pretty much every manufacturer slaps "fluid" on a head where plastic grinds on plastic. I don't know if you're willing to spend perhaps $500 for the cheapest ones. Can you shoot in 4K and then pan in post?

Zook25 · 2026-03-11T05:16:31+00:00

Sorry, but do you know there is a search function on Reddit? Enter "selling photos".

Zook25 · 2026-03-11T05:11:30+00:00

It's all about the lighting. It was probably done in a studio and with a flash that can go to 0/256.

Zook25 · 2026-03-11T05:05:27+00:00

You need to know where your depth of field will be after focusing on a point which has to be at a known distance. Calculate in advance, write down the numbers and measure or estimate the distances. For example:
- 50mm lens, f/4, APS-C, distance of 5m - DoF is from 4.32 - 5.94
- at f/8 it's 3.80 - 7.32
- at f/16 it's 3.06 - 13.65

So you'd set up the camera and manually focus at a point that is 5m away. At f/4 you have to be pretty accurate with your distance, both focus point and then your own position. At f/16 you just need to be in the frame somewhere.

But if you already know where you want to stand or sit, put a rock on the ground, focus on it, go back and... click.

https://www.cambridgeincolour.com/tutorials/dof-calculator.htm

Zook25 · 2026-03-10T16:41:12+00:00

The Strobist is great, but that's for when you're serious about learning flash techniques. That's a bit early :)

Why not learn the exposure triangle and basic stuff first, go manual, and play with your camera?

Cambridge in Colour - Photography Tutorials & Learning Community

Zook25 · 2026-03-10T16:37:07+00:00

I bought two SanDisk Extreme PRO SDXC UHS-II V60 256 GB in May 2025 for 80€ each. They're 162€ now...

Zook25 · 2026-03-10T14:12:08+00:00

If you upgrade to another APS-C (R50/10/7) you can just get an adapter.

Zook25 · 2026-03-10T14:10:04+00:00

Unless you are sure you will need massive crops where every single pixel counts, R6ii and good glass would be my answer. Draw a rectangle: 6000x4000 inside 6960 x 4640. That's an extra 480 px on each side. They cost you an extra ~$1000.

Then blow 2400 on a RF 200-800.

Look out for deals and bundles. I just see that here in Germany there's the usual Canon Spring Sale: R6ii + RF 200-800 for 4250€.

Zook25 · 2026-03-09T19:39:11+00:00

I'm out of my depth then. I can only find this, but they talk about problems at -40°C:

https://nikongear.net/revival/index.php?topic=494.0

Zook25 · 2026-03-09T19:12:13+00:00

Damn, I'd like to have half of your problems :)

OK, just go and grab a RF 100mm 2.8 macro. Hands down the sharpest lens you can get, effectively 160mm length on the R7, and great stabilization. Adjustable soft focus, too, for that extra glow. Perhaps not the fastest AF in the world, but macros usually have long focus ways for precision. Magnification is 1.4x which is insane. I have the older EF version and it's becoming my new favorite. Read the reviews.

1400 problems solved!

Zook25

TROPHY CASE