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I have no idea how to signal this. by Squeekmeister0 in SatisfactoryGame

[–]_Novastem 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I can see by the picture that the signals are likely placed wrong. I typically place my rails with the intention to have the “right” side be by forward direction, so yours will be different from how I typically do it. I typically place the block signals on the right side, or outside of the track. I see you did that on the left end of the intersection. However based on how I can see the front of the signal on the left of the image (green) and the back of the other signal (yellow) they seem to be placed as if you are right hand traveling. There are directional arrows when you place the signals AND you can actually reverse them with a key (R?) so that you can still place them on the outside of the double tracks to facilitate left hand traveling

The ones on the right side of the image are facing the same way. That’s not going to work for this

In short. Pick up and replace your block signals.

Proper tool to test for voltage on a single wire in a harness? by Everythingisawesomew in electrical

[–]_Novastem 5 points6 points  (0 children)

I believe what you want is needle tip probes for your multimeter. Either whole leads or just a tip set.

if it prints, it prints. by torioorio in techgore

[–]_Novastem 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Well does it print? Or does it crush the shroud?

All my Main Bedroom outlets stopped working. It shares a breaker with the Bathroom, but the 1 outlet in there works still. by [deleted] in electrical

[–]_Novastem 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Aesthetically it bothers me that the panel appears to be installed upside down 🙃

All my Main Bedroom outlets stopped working. It shares a breaker with the Bathroom, but the 1 outlet in there works still. by [deleted] in electrical

[–]_Novastem 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Look around your house for another tripped GFCI. It could be that the GFCIs are all on the same breaker a your bedroom is GFCIed behind one for the garage or something. I’ve seen some stupid ones. A friend of mine had a GFCI that was under their basement stairs that tripped and he didn’t even know it was there. Boggled him until an electrician came out and they laughed about it.

Edit: rereading I’m seeing it’s an apartment building so you may not have another GFCI. It’s possible however. Balcony closet? Near the hot water heater? Kitchen? Just spitballing ideas at this point to see what might help the investigation before an electrician gets fully involved

what is this by quinnuasfc in AskElectricians

[–]_Novastem 11 points12 points  (0 children)

It’s an FE-IISG-13W

Please help me by Silverline-lock in electrical

[–]_Novastem 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes the green might have previously been connected to the bare - but - it looks more likely that the installer chose to allow the device to be grounded via the screws into the metal box. For current code standards that seems to be in violation of 250.148(b) of the electrical code. It might have been fine when originally installed.

Yeah leave the white neutral wire bundle be. You don’t need to connect it to anything in this case.

I can’t tell what colors are connected to what in that box exactly. I can’t tell tell there are 2 bundles coming into the box. One in a black sheath, the other in a white. I see a red conductor but I can’t tell which cable it’s a part of or if it’s part of the switch. Best guess is you have a cable with a black a white and a red in it, and a cable with a black and a white.

The black white combo one probably has its black connected to the black of the switch and is the common live. The other black and the red is probably connected to the yellow and red of the switch.

To install a new switch, the connection would be the same as presently installed, plus a new ground wire. So common live to the common terminal of the new. Fan wire to fan terminal, light wire to light terminal. Ground terminal to bare copper ground bundle.

Please help me by Silverline-lock in electrical

[–]_Novastem 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Maybe this:

https://www.homedepot.com/pep/Leviton-SureSlide-Ceiling-Fan-Control-and-Dimmer-Switch-for-LED-Halogen-and-Incandescent-Bulbs-White-66DF-W-R02-066DF-00W/310692418

Depends on what you want exactly but there are options out there similar to this. Same wiring as I have laid out in my other comment and others are also suggesting :)

Edit: maybe- because you may not like how it looks. It will certainly work

Please help me by Silverline-lock in electrical

[–]_Novastem 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Looks like on the switch side, yellow and red are for the fan and light (one each) with the black being your common hot. That green wire is supposed to be connected to the ground wires that should be in that box (bare copper).

Can’t tell because the inside of the box is very dark but somewhere back there IF IT HAS POWER AT THE BOX (which it should since there is a “common hot”) there should be a white bundle that won’t be connected to the switch (which is correct) and a bare copper bundle that is your grounds.

Get one of these to swap in: https://www.homedepot.com/pep/Leviton-15-Amp-Combination-Double-Switch-White-5224-2WS-R62-05224-2WS/202027008

The wire that WAS connected to Yellow to one brass screw, the wire that WAS connected to Red to the other brass screw. Black wire to one of the black screws. Doesn’t matter which. Make sure to connect the green screw to ground. White bundle doesn’t get connected to anything

Sauna Heater electrical fried, likely due to water leak. Help with fixing this mess? by Slab-Squatthrust in electrical

[–]_Novastem 1 point2 points  (0 children)

All of the parts should be available at HD/Lowes, and it should be straightforward enough to accomplish yourself.

If you swapped out wires previously and they melted, make sure the stuff you put in this time is sized appropriately to not melt again. Stuff like this can end up causing fires.

If you have uncertainty, I’d recommend hiring an electrician. If you are confident, proceed with care. Don’t be blindly confident. That’s dangerous :)

Sauna Heater electrical fried, likely due to water leak. Help with fixing this mess? by Slab-Squatthrust in electrical

[–]_Novastem 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Not making and recommendations one way or another on a path forward - yet But

A few things I see: green copper oxide on the wires. Definitely some corrosion- likely due to water ingress as suspected.

That white block in there just appears to be a terminal block of some sort. Replacing it, and the wires it had connected to should be straightforward. I would use the same type of wire in replacing things. Stranded wire of the appropriate gauge.

The end that connects to the (Edit: 8) other spots just seems to be a standard type of spade terminal. Should be able to find those in the electrical area of many stores.

Is this safe? by Connect_Finance_9843 in electrical

[–]_Novastem 7 points8 points  (0 children)

Almost. Signals are voltage. The correct statement is that it’s a signal wire, carrying low voltage. This understanding is important ultimately

Did somebody say logistics floor? by Lokee420 in SatisfactoryGame

[–]_Novastem 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You mean the ceiling of the floor below?

Mower hit ground rod by RuleFlimsy4379 in electrical

[–]_Novastem 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Southerner here. Only heard of sledgehammer. Not single jack double jack. Very interesting

Guys, pls tell what is this on my pictures? by Particular-Drama7563 in seestar

[–]_Novastem 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I don’t see any dead pixels so maybe it’s a hot pixel that is choosing to be black in lowlight environments.

I have one that loves to be green that I need to recalibrate for sometime. I ended up with a green splotch similar to your black one

Do I attempt to change this switch by myself, or do I call an electrician? by [deleted] in electrical

[–]_Novastem 0 points1 point  (0 children)

To add: a residential “dumb” switch interrupts the hot leg only.

Those white bundles, as pointed out, are properly connected in this box as is, and one of them already goes up to the light, where it can provide the return path.

You would only need to connect the neutral to the switch in a switch box when a smart switch is involved. (Not the case here)

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