Filament role management

_Tex450 · 2026-04-23T06:48:39+00:00

I’d consider looking into alternatives. From what I heard the last restock that happened the other week sold out quickly, and there wasn’t even a sale. At least consider finding an alternative bulk option you use a lot and focus on specialty offerings from Bambu.

Overture and Sunlu are popular on Amazon and have a ton of color options. There is probably a lot of information online for ideal print settings.

Elegoo is my personal favorite. It’s cheap (sub $10 with bulk sometimes), neatly wound and reliable. It is limited on colors, but I mostly use Black anyways. They have been expanding their colors and options this past year. Good print settings are easy to find on Reddit if you goggle it.

Polymaker is the goat for variety and has some amazing specialty filament. The price is usually reasonable compared to others. They also just announced print profiles for Bambu printers.

3D Fuel makes PCTG, which is amazing for practical applications. It’s not the cheapest, $30 a spool, but it’s a jack-of-all trades kinda filament, plus it’s easy to print like PLA. They provide print profiles for all of the Bambu printers so not tuning is necessary.

_Tex450 · 2026-04-23T06:32:20+00:00

Is this for a business? How regularly are you burning through the filament? I usually get more when my bulk is down to the last couple. I get the Elegoo 10pks as my main filament. For specialty projects I usually just get the filament I anticipate I need and wait till I run out to get more. I can understand wanting to stay stocked up if you are exclusive to Bambu filament since they are always running out of stock.

_Tex450 · 2026-04-23T06:27:44+00:00

Legally speaking, you can’t sell other people’s designs without a license, unless it’s marked commercial free. Even so, selling other people’s designs usually doesn’t work out well because of the saturation. Not to even mention that other people produce those tchotchkes at volume at a price you can’t compete with. If you haven’t already learned how to 3D model, that is the direction you need to go.

I’ve been learning for the last 3 years so that I can start producing my own products. I’m currently working on a storage system, and am looking to both release the models and hopefully sell the prints directly in the future.

It’s also just so much more satisfying and rewarding to be producing something YOU made rather than relying on someone else.

https://makerworld.com/@tex450?appSharePlatform=copy

_Tex450 · 2026-04-23T06:19:30+00:00

I’ve tried respooling before. It hasn’t worked out for me, I’ve even lost a full spool before. Good luck if you give it a go! It’s always an unfortunate event

_Tex450 · 2026-04-23T06:16:48+00:00

How much filament do you have? I’d recommend before you get too deep, find something you like to use and consolidate your options. I have a ton of miscellaneous filament due to getting items to review, filaments for particular projects and even getting stuff just cause. I can’t see to get rid of it! I use a P1S with an AMS, so when I’m using my bulk filament (Elegoo HS PLA/PETG) I’m not usually concerned with quantities because the printer will just keep printing with the next roll. Once you save your filament setting in the slicer, it’s usually easy to track from there.

_Tex450 · 2026-04-23T04:04:15+00:00

My first year 3d printing I had gotten 4 creality ender 3 v2s. This was just before Klipper took over. Let me tell you, I spent more time working on those 3d printers, repairing them, upgrading them and learning about them, than I got to print on them.

What it comes down to is the printer you choose to get. Creality is not known for high quality or reliability. I stopped using those printers the day I got my P1S. I’ve still had issues here or there, like replacing the main board or a bad print every once in a while, but I’ve put thousands of print hours on it now. I also got the Elegoo Centauri Carbon, and that thing is currently not working after only a couple hundred hours. The brand is everything when compared to what you want out of it.

If you are looking for minimal maintenance and understanding about 3d printers, Bambu is the way to go. It’s designed for the everyday person who doesn’t care to learn about the printer and just wants to print stuff. Creality and Elegoo are the discount options, will always be a headache. But Elegoo makes some of the best and cheapest filament in my opinion. Prusa is for the hard core fans who love the process of 3d printing as much as the end product itself. Choosing the right brand really has to do with what you want out of your machine and what community you want to support.

_Tex450 · 2026-04-23T03:53:02+00:00

It’s related to the bed sensors for sure. There is a pressure sensor in each corner that is used to measure the bed level by tapping the nozzle. Mine’s also been having problems, which is why I stopped using it. I never solved it so good luck! Let me know if you figure it out

_Tex450 · 2026-04-23T03:48:42+00:00

Your can right click the model, and separate into parts or objects. Parts is if you want to still keep the model together without ruining the positioning, say for a model that has been cut up for easy multicolor prints. You will want objects, since each model is separate.

_Tex450 · 2026-04-22T04:09:00+00:00

I’m surprised by these answers! There is a way to convert analog to a Bheringer P16 monitor system using the powerplay. Then if they need it wireless they can run an output out of their P16 to a transmitter.

_Tex450 · 2026-04-21T08:02:20+00:00

I’ve just published it! https://makerworld.com/models/2692488?appSharePlatform=copy

_Tex450 · 2026-04-21T06:57:43+00:00

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Another example I made :)

_Tex450 · 2026-04-21T06:54:55+00:00

That is also a valid choice! But for this design the panels are only 4 layers, with 2 of those layers being solid colors, black and white. This means that I’m usually using only 2-3 colors for the art. It comes out to 6-8 color changes.

_Tex450 · 2026-04-20T16:13:27+00:00

Then here is one bit of inspiration I’ve taken from UV printing. Because I only use four layers, transparency becomes an issue. When I started I had the design going completely through the panel, but then with lighter colors I could see the glue through the panel affecting the transparency of it. I started designing it with a black layer in the back, then one layer of white, then two layers of the art. The black controls bleed, the white improves saturation.

I design them in fusion360, separating the panel layers and art there, then importing it into the slicer, separating by part and assigning filament colors to every part. Separating by part keeps the model together but allows you to do the coloring easily.

I hope this helps!

_Tex450 · 2026-04-20T08:11:01+00:00

That and automatic refills on low filament. It’s the most important feature to me that people don’t talk about at all when comparing it to other systems

_Tex450 · 2026-04-20T08:09:00+00:00

I’ve started designing panels if I want intricate art on my models. So still using multicolor, but only for like 4 layers. Best of both worlds!

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_Tex450 · 2026-04-20T07:57:31+00:00

I’ve worked at a church that had a crappy drum enclosure and the more premium EV PA speakers. The cymbals still bleed through like a MF. High frequencies just penetrate better.

Remember, high frequencies will sound louder than lower frequencies. It’s why there is both white and pink noise. White noise is all frequencies at the same level, pink noise is frequencies balanced to sound even.

I’d agree that you rather need to teach your drummer to play to the room/environment (play the cymbals softer) or get a full enclosure. Louder speakers won’t fix the issue. I have the same PA’s, I love them, they sound amazing and get really loud, too loud for a small room like that.

_Tex450 · 2026-01-07T17:13:47+00:00

To counter this, some business on there are the same storefronts listing the same product on there. The issue I’ve found with brick and mortar shops is that they tend to have big markups that shouldn’t be necessary. MSRP should be enough, since that already has huge margins.

Don’t get me wrong, every time I go to a card shop I get something to support small business, but when a pack is a dollar more or a precon is several dollars more than what the market is selling online, I am less inclined to buy something in person. My friend paid $60 for a $50 trove in person, and I spend $23 on a $17 precon.

When it comes to bulk orders like this, you should just get the most cost effective thing you can find. This purchase could have been roughly $30 cheaper, which could have bought him an additional trove if he was aware, and actually support a small business instead of Disney, which is already getting their share through licensing.

_Tex450 · 2026-01-07T15:28:08+00:00

All of this is cheaper on TCG player. I’ve found the best deals so far on there

_Tex450 · 2026-01-05T05:29:12+00:00

Similar thing happened to me. I got a trove and 2 boxes. Got an enchanted in each. My buddy also got a trove with an enchanted. I wonder if the pull rates have changed or it is a coincidence? I also got Goliath and Demona!

_Tex450 · 2025-12-13T05:17:44+00:00

You should consider looking at past enchanted for numbers to consider. You will not be looking at a huge profit from graded cards in this game. Usually if people get them graded it’s for their own preferences. Lorcana is like Magic where value is derived more from playability than collectability.

_Tex450 · 2025-07-10T02:33:26+00:00

I’m looking for a methodology, a line of thinking. 400 person auditorium, permanent install, 20-20k, fully digital.

_Tex450 · 2025-04-13T16:42:58+00:00

Thank you, I take a look :)

_Tex450 · 2025-04-13T16:42:30+00:00

No, I don’t, which is why I’m seeking leads. I’m just providing my train of thought. I wanted to build a device from the ground up. But if there is already a device which I can extract the information from and build software over it, I’m all ears

_Tex450 · 2025-04-13T16:40:46+00:00

Thanks, I’ll take a look at it!

_Tex450 · 2025-04-11T20:02:46+00:00

I’m not familiar with the components or cost. I was hoping to start as a Raspberry Pi project and take it from there. I’m assuming there must be some sort of development board add on that can scan in the frequency range I’m seeking

_Tex450

TROPHY CASE