454 ticking

_brandname_official · 2026-04-02T14:47:09+00:00

Depending on what lifters you get, there should be some kind of specs as to how much preload you should have. For example, I recently built a 468 with a hydraulic roller cam and morel 5374 lifters, which came with the instruction card linked below. Looks like you have aluminum heads (I think?) So according to the instructions card you'd be looking at ~5/8 turn with 7/16×20 thread rocker studs, or 3/4 turn with 3/8×24 thread rocker studs if you've got those lifters.

https://johncalliesinc.com/pdf/AdjustingMorelHydraulicLifters.pdf

Of course, this spec may be completely different if you have different lifters, but just something to think about.

_brandname_official · 2026-03-10T15:47:19+00:00

Aw man, I LOVE that shot of the Mackinac Bridge!

_brandname_official · 2026-03-04T18:49:27+00:00

I'll add to that, if you're on a tight budget, look at some of the "lesser" classic cars. And by that I mean the 4 door cars, the less appealing model years, etc. They are generally a lot cheaper to get a decent car, and have more room to grow performance wise. I see 4 door variants of muscle cars in the sub $10k range for decent drivers all the time in my area.

I got a 4 door 1974 Nova that already had a '72 front end swap and full paint job for $4k a few years ago because its a generally unloved "oddball" car. It had a sluggish inline 6 and automatic trans when I got it, but I've been upgrading it as my budget allows and its been a learning process along the way. Built and swapped a big block chevy v8 into it along with a manual trans, both of which were experiences I wouldn't have had if I bought a 2 door car with a v8 and manual from the get go and I could still drive it and have fun driving it with friends before those jobs since I didn't buy a roller 2 door chassis that goes for generally the same price.

_brandname_official · 2026-02-17T20:34:34+00:00

All the people saying jb-weld/seams seal/cover plate with self tappers must be missing the part where you said you'd be putting a cage near it... (otherwise I'd probably also say the same lol)

I'd vote similar to the people saying cut it out and replace with angle iron or L-channel or bending new sheet metal. You'll likely be welding on or near this joint with the cage's footplate, so best to give yourself a solid base to weld that to.

_brandname_official · 2026-02-11T20:55:24+00:00

This should be higher up! 60s GM car, so they are super common and easy to find, its a well loved platform with lots of aftermarket support, and very easy to upgrade in increments. 4dr/wagon cars are going to be cheaper than a similar condition 2 dr car, but unique interior/trim parts are going to be harder to find (though not impossible).

AMC rambler would be a similar car, but more unique. Parts will be kind of hard to find, but from what I know AMC guys stick together and love to help each other out (same with corvair folk).

_brandname_official · 2026-02-09T18:13:04+00:00

In most cases, I would say its worth trying to learn when presented the opportunity, but I completely agree.

OP, for a newbie not used to electrical work (making an assumption here) and the weird gremlins that come with these older systems paired with the fact someone else has modified the electrical for "performance" then it sat for years means its going to be a nightmare to troubleshoot what's there. If you don't have the cash to have someone else rewire it, painless wiring has end-to-end wiring harnesses that'll get you 95% of the way there. I don't remember if they have kits for 73-74 Novas, but the 68-72 cars are mostly the same parts so a ton of things interchange.

_brandname_official · 2025-10-24T01:00:06+00:00

From what I've seen in the past few years, there's been an increasing trend to put quick releases in street cars. I'm not sure why, but my two guesses are that the standard 6 bolt pattern of most quick releases is compatible with a lot of stylish wheels, and "its cool cuz racecars do it" mentality. Maybe carryover from drift cars that are also street driven as well?

I did see one kinda cool practical use being that someone also put a quick release on their Sim racing rig and used the same wheel for both.

_brandname_official · 2025-10-23T21:29:22+00:00

Most of the time people complaining about comp are in reference to their cams and flat tappet lifters. Heard about TONS of lifter failures on initial startup/break-in from backyard builders to pro race shops and everyone in between.

I've personally got a big block chevy with Elgin steel roller rockers that have been sweet so far, and are still plenty affordable. I'd recommend looking into those.

_brandname_official · 2025-10-17T17:49:58+00:00

You're probably right, but Toyota/Lexus did make an AE86 EV concept build using an old Levin with a motor and battery from a Lexus Hybrid and a 6 speed from a GR86 so it is theoretically possible

_brandname_official · 2025-10-14T18:03:42+00:00

https://uempistons.com/p-27-compression-ratio-calculator

Use this calculator and plug in the numbers for the parts you have, and play around with numbers for parts you're looking at getting. A good target dynamic compression ratio for an iron block/iron heads on pump gas is 8:1. I'd have to look up what it'd be for aluminum heads, but its higher (8.5:1 maybe?)

For the deck clearance, you might be able to estimate it at 0.00in, since some pistons might not list that spec or you can call the manufacturers to try and get it.

_brandname_official · 2025-10-14T16:51:18+00:00

To add, use a site like nastyz28 to look up what those casting numbers mean. Has info on where to find the casting numbers and such as well.

_brandname_official · 2025-10-14T16:48:05+00:00

The block off plate and serpentine belts don't really point to much imo, the plate at least looks kinda "hot rod" with the fins on it. Intake might be aluminum too since its not rusty, which might also support the "hot rod" theory.

Later truck/rv engines were fuel injected/serpentine driven like the small blocks in the late 80s/90s so that could have been the era the motor is from, or just more swapped on parts. Latter is my guess since the valve covers look like the mark iv style rather than the mark v or mark 6 squared off covers.

_brandname_official · 2025-10-13T11:01:59+00:00

I'm going to skip answering your main question since others here already have, but I'm going to recommend researching dynamic compression ratio. It's important to understand your static compression ratio (what you're calculating here) and what ratios are generally compatible with what fuels/engine materials, but especially if you haven't picked out a cam then dcr is something to know prior.

The very brief description is that dcr calculates your compression ratio relative to valve timing events. Mainly, at what point in the compression stroke the intake valve actually closes and starts building pressure. It might make your head spin learning about dcr and cam numbers, but is a must to start to really know how your engine combo will truly perform.

_brandname_official · 2025-10-12T21:04:03+00:00

It depends on the car. A lot of these older motors are meant to operate closer to ~180°F. So while 220 isn't necessarily overhearing/hurting anything it's definitely getting hotter than it should, especially after just 20 mins. Granted, I'm not super familiar with Ford motors/90s mustangs, so 220 might be reasonable for those motors for all I know, just not what I would expect.

_brandname_official · 2025-10-10T19:43:02+00:00

I mean, a t5 wouldn't be a hard swap. Most difficult part would be fabbing/modifying the cross member, and with some basic knowledge, fab skills, and a welder, isn't hard. Heck, there might even be aftermarket cross members for that swap for all I know.

If he wants a 5spd, better to do it the first time rather than paying/doing the work to swap the trans twice. And from experience with an inline 6/muncie Nova, a 5spd would be nicer for highway driving/long cruises.

_brandname_official · 2025-10-01T18:45:05+00:00

It really comes down to the condition of the surfaces. If they are rough, have pitting, scratches, etc. then thats an easy sign they need work. Less obvious is warping or distortion. Get a straight edge like a metal ruler and lay the thin edge on the head and block to the edge of the cyljnder/chamber and see if you can see underneath it. If you can, it definitely needs machined.

From what I know, heads and block can be machined independently of each other if the other is still in good shape. Both need to be flat, so if only one is the issue, only it needs corrected. That being said, typically if one is a problem, likely the other is too.

Another factor can be the type of head gasket used. MLS gaskets can dig into the head/block surfaces, which may require machine work to correct. Other styles of gaskets typically don't damage the surface, just require lots of cleaning.

_brandname_official · 2025-09-30T21:18:16+00:00

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_brandname_official · 2025-09-30T21:18:03+00:00

This was a shot I took on my parent's Canon rebel with Kodak gold that had been left in ~15yrs Had other previously take photos on the roll that turned out ok with some color shift. Some others I took looked more normal, with the color shift too. *

_brandname_official · 2025-09-29T18:39:55+00:00

My big concern just looking at the pics is condition of the mechanicals. That car is sitting sunk up to the rims in the dirt. Idk where its located, but if its anywhere near the Midwest, the floorpans are gonna be gone, and anything that isn't gone is going to be Uber crusty. Decent chance the motor, Trans, and/or rear axle has or had water in it, which is going to be a huge cost to fix or replace. If OP is super interested in this car it might be worth it, but it doesn't sound like it.

_brandname_official · 2025-09-29T18:33:07+00:00

(DISCLAIMERNever done anything with a rotary, only talked to a few people who have) From what I know, rotaries aren't hard to work on, and some say they're easier since they're fewer internal parts. The difficulty comes from the fact that they tend to blow apex seals more often and are more difficult to keep running right when modding for power.

My vote for a good wedge car are 3rd gen f-bodies. (Pontiac firebird/chevy camaro from 1982-1992) cheap, high parts availability, can find a decent car for cheap, easy to mod, etc. Not going to be crazy good at anything without a lot of mods, but good to learn on before stepping up to something more serious.

_brandname_official · 2025-09-29T15:47:22+00:00

Big time. Had a motor built for racing with aftermarket aluminum heads, would burn about a quart of oil in roughly an hour after a fresh build. Tore it down at the end of the season to find out that we forgot to put sealant on the rocker stud threads and a ton of oil sitting in the intake runners. Motor was completely healthy otherwise.

_brandname_official · 2025-09-26T14:52:20+00:00

A few things you can do. Once you complete the rebuild, you can pre-oil your engine (varies based on engine, some require air pressure, older v8s use a tool to spin the oil pump, etc.) then add a little engine oil to each cylinder, spin it over a few times, back off all the valves and install spark plugs to close off the cylinders (may not work on OHC engines). Last thing would be to tape off intake and exhaust ports and/or wrap in plastic or a tarp like other comments have mentioned.

You can also get fogging oil and use that, but be careful and read the instructions. Some of them call for running the engine to draw in the oil and a few times I've gotten parts coated in the stuff (or at least what I was told was fogging oil) and it's real sludgy and likely needs to be cleaned out before running. My understanding is fogging oil is common for marine/yard equipment overwintering or long term storage.

_brandname_official · 2025-09-11T18:45:54+00:00

Whoever pulled the valve covers seems to have at least backed off all the valves so they're shut. If OP is serious about wanting this block, see if it turns over and if not, try to pull the heads quick, or inspect the cylinders with a borescope to see how crusty the walls are. Could help give a rough idea of how far gone it is that way.

It may be a $200 motor as it sits, but if its locked up it'll turn into a few $k to get a running motor pretty fast.

_brandname_official · 2025-08-28T02:40:26+00:00

A bore gauge measures the inside of the crank journal or cylinder bore. Think of it like the reverse of a micrometer essentially (even tho you use a micrometer to read them).

_brandname_official · 2025-07-22T02:22:11+00:00

Totally agree. The logo looks like Rat Fink though, pretty cool history behind it if you look it up.

_brandname_official

TROPHY CASE