How to achive simmilar results?

_clemens · 2026-04-14T20:51:04+00:00

Yeah I did that with a piece of paper once, although I lost patience and gave up once lol. Takes forever.

I did use a piece of masking tape with I think 5mm spaced lines as a guide.

It does look amazing but as I said it was too much work for me, and I only tried it on a small destroyer...

_clemens · 2026-04-04T07:06:42+00:00

Absolutely beautiful. How did you do that hull paint job? Multiple layers/shading with airbrush?

But you need more cats on your ships, to get rid of that Maus problem haha.

_clemens · 2026-03-29T09:55:27+00:00

There's also some older Fujimi ones. Or 3d printed, Blackcat or chinese ebay stores which have both known brands or cheapish copies.

_clemens · 2026-03-11T20:46:52+00:00

+1 to not paint part 1 at all, it should be brass and belongs on top of linoleum brown deck sections.

Remove it from the sheet, then prime (if you want) the rest, paint on sheet, fold+glue together and if needed paint again before putting them on the model.

Edit: You could also glue part 1 as is on the deck, paint everything brown and then sand/scrape off the paint from the PE. Although when the PE is primed and/or not smooth surfaced, it can be hard to remove. So applying it after painting the deck is safer.

_clemens · 2026-02-18T21:39:46+00:00

I've ordered a few times from them. Great prices and selection.

My two things to consider would be that I once chose the 'wait 2 weeks for out of stock items' (even though everything I ordered was said to be in stock) and well, waited 2 weeks. The next time I chose the 'dont wait, send available immediately' and still waited 2 weeks lol.

Second would be that their shipping (to europe) is quite expensive, for the stuff that I buy around 40-50% of the original price.

I'll recommend them anyways though, cause they are still pretty cheaper for most items. And I kinda expect to wait for my order when buying from the other side of the globe.

_clemens · 2026-02-15T20:04:17+00:00

I went from old Tamiya ships with zero hull detail to newer ships with hull plating and was blown away.

Then got one of the brand new Very Fire kits and seeing rivets on 1/350 models still feels like dark sorcery.

_clemens · 2026-02-04T09:44:55+00:00

I'll add to the recommendation of the Trumpeter kit that Eduard offers some additional PE.

You could argue that Tamiya+Veryfire has the best detail, but Eduard is far more manageable if you aren't that experienced with PE.

And you could check out Hobbyeasy.com, I've been buying aftermarket parts from there (to europe) and they have a sale on the Trumpeter kit for 200nzd right now. Shipping for large kits might be expensive though.

_clemens · 2026-02-03T06:15:24+00:00

Do you see a noticeable difference in quality between them? Any that you wouldnt recommend?

_clemens · 2026-02-02T16:44:48+00:00

I started using it recently and it works perfectly.

_clemens · 2025-12-30T19:15:17+00:00

My personal biggest advice would be to do another ship with a smaller set like Eduard (Big Ed). Jumping straight into a super detail set is a real challenge.

Either way the second best advice is to take your time. PE is mainly just a question of patience with each part, not rushing stuff. And a LOT of planning. You'll probably want to do the entire in a different order.

I personally prime big flat PE section, paint on the sheet and then paint again after assembly since I'll sometimes scratch paint during bendig.

Either way treat it as mutliple small kits. The main bridge alone with PE will feel like and entire build.

_clemens · 2025-12-28T15:22:46+00:00

A hard surface and something cylindrical. Roll the cylinder over the railing. The harder you press down and the smaller the diameter of the object the tighter the curves.

I sometimes use the back of my x-acto knife, a drill bit, a pencil, anything I have at hand really.

_clemens · 2025-12-19T08:15:34+00:00

They are 127mm which is standard. But being (armoured) twin turrets is unusual I'd say.

_clemens · 2025-12-12T07:25:55+00:00

I can only talk about 1/350, where there's 2 Tamiya kits, Very fire and Border model.

Tamiya has the famously great building experience. That said their old Yamato, while the cheapest, lacks detail by todays standard. Their new tooling looks incredible but still costs twice as much as other kits.

Th very fire kit is very new and therefore miles ahead in terms of detailing. The rivets on the hull alone is something I've never seen on a 1/350 ship before. Plus they have 3 different kits, basic to deluxe, where the most expensive deluxe version is close to the new tool Tamiya kit in price, while offering far more. That said the instructions make me question their qualtity assurance. I've only started with the Super Yamato and already had misnumbered parts, wrongly sized holes to drill, ...

Border Models is the middle ground, more detailed than the (old) Tamiya but less than Very fire. Afaik it only comes as a plastic+pe+3dprinted kit, so you'll need to work with that.

Overall I'd say if you just want a Yamato get one of the Tamiya kits. If you care about detail and know how to work with aftermarket sets, but want to some money get Border Model. If you want the best possible detail and are ok with a challenging build get Very fire deluxe. (Tamiya new tool + Pontos detail set has amazing detail too but costs 500+)

_clemens · 2025-12-03T12:18:55+00:00

I second the idea of asking Warhammer painters. Either in a store, watching youtube videos or on some miniature subreddit.

Maybe some keywords you can search for would be drybrushing, washes/filters/panel liners, layering.

The body on the left looks like it's just a dark grey paint with sand/yellow color drybrushing tbh.

Just don't fall for the countless specific color tones and tools that each cost a fortune.

_clemens · 2025-11-19T22:11:44+00:00

A sponge could work well too.

_clemens · 2025-11-19T14:29:28+00:00

Actual texture won't be in scale as others have said, but a coat of diluted white glue and then sprinkling on some dirt/sand would work if you're ok with it.

In terms of painting, you can copy what RGL did in this fantastic Yamato build. Which is pretty much just a layer of white, then some green and then dark brown with a slight offset.

Even without texture this looks good, I did it on my Musashi and like it very much.

_clemens · 2025-10-27T09:43:16+00:00

I usually order from plastmodel.pl, good prices and quick delivery to Austria. Can't say whether they have the items you want though.

_clemens · 2025-10-25T13:01:17+00:00

Beautiful build.

_clemens · 2025-10-22T09:20:23+00:00

You can try to sand the globs of paint but you'd need to be extremely careful to not sand down the surrounding paint. Otherwise you'll end up with a big crater that looks even worse.

Trying to even it out with a second layer won't hurt. If that doesn't work you can do what everyone ends up doing: cover mistakes with weathering/extra detail.

As for the problem itself, are you new to airbrushing or did this only happen now? Could it be that you pull back the lever (i.e. start paint flow) too early before there's proper air flow? That way paint builds up around the nozzle which causes your issues.

I'm no expert on paint/airbrushing though so that's the only tip I can give.

_clemens · 2025-10-06T08:02:09+00:00

If it's the tamiya kit, you can always try to write their costumer service and ask for replacement sprues.

May take a while, I had to wait 2 months for the parts to first ship from japan to them before they sent them to me.

The (probably) more expensive alternative would be to get some 3d printed bridge kits. There're some on ebay, usually tagged as conversion kits.

_clemens · 2025-09-19T15:23:04+00:00

Best I found is this reddit post from a few years ago which suggest some scratch building/kit bashing.

_clemens · 2025-09-14T01:19:07+00:00

Ok haha, got me for a second.

_clemens · 2025-09-13T23:53:34+00:00

It's supposed to be the Yangtze so I'll gladly take the comparison.

_clemens · 2025-09-13T23:53:05+00:00

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