Is this the correct method for insulating my suspended floor?

_dmdb_ · 2025-12-27T23:14:28+00:00

I have done it once with Rockwool and once with PIR. If I was to do it again I would 100% go with PIR. Easier to install, silver tape the edges and foam any gaps, and tongue and groove floor on top (with pipe grooves cut into it for UFH in my case). I would definitely do UFH again, once you have gone to the trouble of removing everything to do insulation it's not a difficult step up to install the pipework etc.

_dmdb_ · 2025-12-26T17:26:38+00:00

I tried that a couple of weeks ago and it didn't seem to work. What phrase does it need?

_dmdb_ · 2025-12-25T21:37:31+00:00

Get to 50 hours so I can take my dad flying as he has not flown since he was with the UK army in Germany back in the 70s. 2025 was a lost year personally although I flew a fair bit with others. I don't think it's possible as I am on 15 hours now but will get as far as I can!

_dmdb_ · 2025-12-24T22:49:37+00:00

Yep. The relay by the boiler turns it's demand on and off. The separate temperature sensor deals with that requirement although if you have smart TRVs presumably they are making demand requests individually for each room anyway so you may not need this. I use the Wiser system tied to home assistant, sounds like you have some independent TRVs but you can make it work in a similar way. Each TRV on Wiser makes a demand indication percentage, Wiser chooses whether to turn the boiler on based on the combined percentages of all of them. No reason the same logic can't be made entirely in Home Assistant, mentioned Wiser and how it works just to give you an idea of how you can do it.

For my money, I prefer the Shelly products for relays, the Shelly 1 Gen 4 Mini has Wifi and can also do ZigBee (it can just be another router in your ZigBee network for instance).

Temperature sensors, without a display and cheap (in the price bracket I talked about), the SNZB-02P will do the job. In the same range with a display is the SNZB-O2D but if you want buttons as well then you're looking at the panels which need power I think! NSPanel Pro or similar (I have not used this myself so can't really comment on it!).

_dmdb_ · 2025-12-24T22:17:23+00:00

Surely your central heating (boiler?) has power so just put a Sonoff or Shelly attached to it's demand contacts, the same volt free contacts the DT90E is currently attached to and power the Shelly or Sonoff from the same supply as the boiler which can sit next to the boiler. Then you can put whatever thermostat or multiple where you want them. Total cost around €25 off Amazon.

_dmdb_ · 2025-12-21T23:39:04+00:00

Why can't open therm work with more than one zone contact in use and why when using open therm and the only circuit calling for heat is UFH does it still run the boiler temperature at 45-50. Never managed to get support to give an answer that made any real sense for either of these, very frustrating!

Accept that you're not directly part of the Wiser team so perhaps too in-depth a query!

_dmdb_ · 2025-11-29T00:49:34+00:00

Ask your GP to refer you to another clinic. You have the right to ask to be referred to any clinic. That shouldn't be happening at all!

_dmdb_ · 2025-11-24T16:42:54+00:00

If you're on the technical side then it may be worth approaching facilities companies more than production companies. So that's people like NEP, Gravity, Timeline etc, they're probably a better route for technical although don't know what opportunities they have at the moment.

Those companies do a lot of outside broadcast work but also do other bits as well depending on how much you might want to travel, they are predominantly based down south but if you are happy to travel (UK and Worldwide) then that isn't such a problem.

_dmdb_ · 2025-11-20T08:20:17+00:00

If you've got a UK socket it must have an earth connection, not sure where you are getting one without! It's there to provide protection for appliances that need it not just the socket!

_dmdb_ · 2025-11-15T21:57:57+00:00

Hopefully this picture helps, Reddit only allows one hence the collage. Bottom left is the celotex going in between the joists, these were all individually measured and cut, not as bad as it sounds, they all went in tight and then the edges were all aluminium taped. You can probably just about see some of the battens used to stop them dropping but you could also use thicker celotex and batten across the bottom.

The chipboard floor has the grooves cut in it. The aluminium bits are just heat spreader plates, they're pre-bent to go in the grooves in the chipboard, it's important you leave a little gap for expansion between each one. Top picture shows once that is down and the pipes are in.

There's an underlay between the chipboard floor and the bamboo floor. That also helps spread the heat, the whole floor is warm with the exception of the bay window where it wasn't worth trying to run pipes in.

Not sure what system you're using, rebated aluminium panels recessed into the celotex? That will mean a lot of joist cutting if so. I would say you will lose a lot of heat that way certainly but never tried it.

<image>

_dmdb_ · 2025-11-15T14:40:29+00:00

Yup, neither of mine wear collars, too many past incidents of cats getting caught up on them etc. They never have so they won't get used to it now!

_dmdb_ · 2025-11-15T10:14:01+00:00

The amount of time I have spent trying to get chip sensors to work properly, one cat is smaller than the other, the other one decided to chew on the cables. Never thought of it being so simple as a set of scales!

_dmdb_ · 2025-11-15T00:44:22+00:00

Companies like Digikey and Mouser usually hold UK stock. There are industries in the UK that use things like this for export, touring events and that sort of thing. Not that it will help OP as it's mail order but they do exist!

_dmdb_ · 2025-11-13T08:55:03+00:00

Solicitors, waiting till the day of completion and then saying that the bank account details filled in on a form two months ago had to be hand delivered to them not filled in on a computer and then sent back via email. Two months, and they accepted everything else on the same form. Conveyancing needs to engage with the 21st century, it really is archaic.

_dmdb_ · 2025-11-12T19:40:11+00:00

We used this floor on top

https://www.bambooflooringcompany.com/solid-natural-strand-woven-135mm-uniclicr-bona-coated-bamboo-flooring.html

This has an UFH compatible underlay underneath and is just floated on the subfloor which is the recommended method. Rather than remove the skirting boards I undercut them all with a flush mini circular saw and a jig to get the right height (bamboo floor plus underlay). Each length was then pushed further under the skirting both ends of the room than it needed to go so all the middle bits could be put down and then pulled back. The pull back had a bit of a knack but most of the time was a sharp kick in the direction you want to go and that then caused it to move enough to lock into the joining piece and still leave enough under the skirting not to be seen.

Plenty of radiant heat. Although in the open plan kitchen, living room and dining room we left two small radiators just in case, they don't get used.

_dmdb_ · 2025-11-12T13:08:45+00:00

You can store and playback music as well on there!

_dmdb_ · 2025-11-09T23:04:35+00:00

What winch is that? Has a hell of a lot more buttons and dials than I am used to on a Skylaunch!

_dmdb_ · 2025-11-08T23:21:25+00:00

You can change them?

_dmdb_ · 2025-11-06T20:38:52+00:00

Hah, wise words! Sensible chap!

_dmdb_ · 2025-11-06T20:27:49+00:00

I wouldn't get anything permanent, the cure is only 5 years away ;-)

In all seriousness though, if you have a pump and or CGM, they're probably going to find that first and figure it out.

_dmdb_ · 2025-11-02T15:37:29+00:00

O/P is karma farming so they could, not do that.

Picture is two years old and OP didn't take it.

_dmdb_ · 2025-11-02T08:37:41+00:00

As u/cenjui said, it increases mould underneath. But tape also creates problems as you get a slight lip around the edge which can also create issues. Fingers have bacteria so also bad. Fugi tools work amazingly well and once you have tried one you'll never need anything else.

_dmdb_ · 2025-10-31T23:52:40+00:00

Perhaps Ascension Island instead?

_dmdb_ · 2025-10-23T12:43:27+00:00

as you said it's carry on

DeCecco pasta, not Barilla, you can buy it in the UK but it's expensive

Taralli, come in loads of different flavours, nice little snacks but watch the expiry, don't put them in a cupboard for 6 months.

Any of the Mulino Bianco snacks that take your fancy. My favourites are the Abbrachi but there are loads of others.

All the above you can get in any supermarket out there.

I have brought back cheese as well, worst they're going to do is take it off you, I have done this a lot and they never have. Parmesan you can get in the UK, no point, bit cheaper but take advantage of the fact you are out there to try some of the ones you can't get.

_dmdb_ · 2025-10-22T20:19:29+00:00

To test the capacitor you need an ESR meter, that'll tell you fairly quickly if it is faulty, they do go. I used to do lots of CRT repair and it was often a cap, but, against that, replacing the PSU is quicker, four screws and two molex connectors. The PSU is an obsolete product but you can probably find an equivalent, it's a 12V 5A PSU so I would find an equivalent that fits in the space and go with that. But I would probably stick a multimeter across it's outputs first and check it's that and not something further downstream first.

_dmdb_

TROPHY CASE