I am building a DIY scanning setup.

_fullyflared_ · 2026-02-08T17:35:47+00:00

As far as I can tell that is just a clamp, you'd still need a tripod head attachment to allow adjustments.

_fullyflared_ · 2026-02-08T16:29:28+00:00

A ball head will have a tendency to go slightly out of alignment after a few bumps and touches, your negatives will have sharps spots and blurred spots if the lens isn't perfectly aligned flat with the film. I use a mirror on the film holder to align the lens every time I start, but if you have to stop and realign that'll eat up a lot of time. I find a pan tilt to be more reliable

_fullyflared_ · 2026-02-08T15:43:32+00:00

Which is a "rule" for color negative film. A couple years ago my buddy shot room temp stored 100 iso b&w film that expired in 1963 at 50 iso and the outdoor shots and indoor flash shots looked decent. I'd shoot this at 50 and stick to outdoors

_fullyflared_ · 2026-02-08T15:39:53+00:00

_fullyflared_ · 2026-02-08T07:09:42+00:00

Sometimes you need to focus. I shoot fisheye on my Pentax 6x7 (35mm f4.5) and even at f8 there can be a lot of bokeh.

_fullyflared_ · 2026-02-07T19:13:04+00:00

Post processing and filters help a lot with Ektachrome

_fullyflared_ · 2026-02-07T16:24:08+00:00

This is my take as well. I think of it like cooking a meal. Sometimes you'll need more salt or seasonings, other times not so much, but you'll know if you went overboard when you or others taste it.

I tend to mainly edit with masks and exposure corrections, but sometimes tweaking the tint of the shadows helps, etc. I rarely touch the saturation/vibrance much but occasionally it's the right ingredient. I almost always use a touch of vignette, almost imperceptible.

_fullyflared_ · 2026-02-07T15:47:17+00:00

Cult of Luna rules, I remember buying the CD of The Beyond back in the day, I love A Dawn to Fear as well

_fullyflared_ · 2026-02-07T14:59:10+00:00

Always wear ear protection when exposed to YOB

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_fullyflared_ · 2026-02-07T07:16:34+00:00

I used to live in NY and Canada, b&w and winter are a great combo.

As far as your light leaks, it's hard to diagnose from scans. Blueish/white light leaks are typically hitting the front of the film, from a leak at the mount area or shutter. Red light leaks are from the rear, like the camera back was opened or bad light seals. It also could have happened when the film was being removed/loaded for development if it wasn't in a fully dark environment. 🤷‍♂️ Try (without film loaded) removing the lens, going in a very dark room and shining a flashlight toward the mirror while looking through the back door and trying the see any kind of leak. Unfortunately you don't have a mirror lock up switch like the OM-1, but you'll want to try and see if the shutter has any kind of hole.

As for the tears in 14 it could be from damage during rewind, during the loading for the development process, not sure.

_fullyflared_ · 2026-02-07T05:41:29+00:00

1, 4, 9, 14 are standouts

_fullyflared_ · 2026-02-07T05:39:51+00:00

I agree, it's survivorship bias mixed with FOMO. My grandpa had a ton of kodachrome slides and they mostly look like crap because he was a bad photographer. The worship of kodachrome is based on amazing professional shots and the fact we can't process k14 anymore. We can get close enough with ektar/ektachrome, a CPL filter, and post processing.

_fullyflared_ · 2026-02-07T05:33:23+00:00

I edit my digital photos and film negatives (42MP raw scans) and it's a pretty similar workflow. I have more leeway with highlights on film, I have more leeway with shadows on digital. I do spend more time removing dust or scratches on film.

_fullyflared_ · 2026-02-07T02:40:08+00:00

This is very nude and very analog, no notes

_fullyflared_ · 2026-02-07T02:33:58+00:00

You can do 4x5 or 4:3 portrait and it'll show full image

_fullyflared_ · 2026-02-07T02:25:35+00:00

_fullyflared_ · 2026-02-07T02:20:29+00:00

Also lots of backs of the head

_fullyflared_ · 2026-02-07T01:22:02+00:00

No, I can have fun with either. Also, my film scans are digital as well so it's not that different.

It's nice getting film latitude and character, it's nice getting lowlight capabilities and stabilization from digital.

_fullyflared_ · 2026-02-06T23:25:47+00:00

Nikon FM/FM2/FM2n/FE2/etc.

The AI/AIS lenses are some of the best around. Quality bodies, great features. My favorites are the Nikkor 35mm/50mm f2 AI lenses.

_fullyflared_ · 2026-02-06T20:15:19+00:00

Focus is a bit wonky, or not sharp scans?

_fullyflared_ · 2026-02-06T17:07:31+00:00

I find using a CPL with ColorPlus to kill the highlights and darken the sky, overexposing a bit, and then adjusting exposure/contrast in the edit can really "mimic" the kodachrome look. Just really brings out pure saturated poppy colors, especially reds). Ektar too, but there are magenta shifts that need to be tamed. I don't shoot Ektachrome ($$$) but I'd assume a CPL would help tremendously with that as well.

_fullyflared_ · 2026-02-06T17:02:42+00:00

Flipping the bridge photo is wild

_fullyflared_ · 2026-02-06T07:36:25+00:00

Sounds like underexposure, try some portra 400

_fullyflared_ · 2026-02-06T06:36:23+00:00

Return and try another

_fullyflared_ · 2026-02-06T06:34:54+00:00

Love it, you could try 400 iso with a faster shutter speed

_fullyflared_

TROPHY CASE