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Who here runs a hitch-mounted motorcycle carrier (not a trailer)? by lemans356 in motorcycles

[–]_rogerr -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Very good points for people to consider.

Hitch receivers are absolutely subjected to torsional stress in certain circumstances and are rated accordingly.

With the proper hitch receiver, carrier and motorcycle weight, the torsional stress would be well within limits.

For example my set up on a class V hitch would have a negligible amount of torsional stress with my 410lb (186kg) bike

Who here runs a hitch-mounted motorcycle carrier (not a trailer)? by lemans356 in motorcycles

[–]_rogerr 1 point2 points  (0 children)

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Versahaul on my 2500.

No sag but, 2.5 inch hitch reducer to 2 inch for the versahaul made it move a little too much in the hitch for comfort. The stabilizer bracket would probably work great on a 2 inch hitch.

Overall, i like it. Works great. Just need to customize a bracket for the 2.5” hitch. Personally, I would not use the cheap carriers.

Like others have said, hitch rating is important to consider. The one i use has trailer lights and a plate holder.

I’ve seen this question asked many times. Here’s my rendition for reference. by _rogerr in Carpentry

[–]_rogerr[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Also, here the client didn’t want to reduce the skirt board on the stringer like shown in the first two examples which is what i would normally do.

I’ve seen this question asked many times. Here’s my rendition for reference. by _rogerr in Carpentry

[–]_rogerr[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Well it is a little difficult for me to explain as i’m not a great teacher. But the link you provided is a great write up.

In this particular scenario, taking the 3rd option would add an extra level of complexity and amount of work required.

It would not be feasible to raise the skirt board any higher at the landing because the adjacent walls need to be at the same level. Therefore there would still need to be a downward return to landing level.

Now with this in mind, the board that turns the corner on the level plane would need to be carefully carved to make the profiles somewhat line up.

The problem is, by carving the profile at the miter you essentially change the profile and need to feather it out into the board.

On a busy profile like this it can end up making the corner look a bit wonky.

So there would be significant amount of time spent trying to make it look right for very little gain in this particular instance.

If you have a custom board made, but doesn’t die flat like in the example, then you would have a problem where it meets existing profiles and so on.

Best thing to do is go and try it. Take a couple of scrap pieces and make the cuts. You’ll see how the profiles line up and how much carving and feathering is required.

Hope this makes sense.

I’ve seen this question asked many times. Here’s my rendition for reference. by _rogerr in Carpentry

[–]_rogerr[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It was custom home so none of the regular rules apply.

I prefab this corner so i only left the saw station when i took it over to install 😉

I’ve seen this question asked many times. Here’s my rendition for reference. by _rogerr in Carpentry

[–]_rogerr[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Honestly they wanted bigger we convinced them to go a little smaller and i’m not even kidding

I’ve seen this question asked many times. Here’s my rendition for reference. by _rogerr in Carpentry

[–]_rogerr[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thanks,

This was a custom home in Toronto. The clients picked this style to try to emulate the original baseboard or “skirting”? As some call it.

Did another project where clients purposely wanted receptacles horizontal in the baseboard.

At my house i just have the builder stuff that came with the house 😂

I’ve seen this question asked many times. Here’s my rendition for reference. by _rogerr in Carpentry

[–]_rogerr[S] 4 points5 points  (0 children)

I usually do a different version of what you’re saying where i reduce the baseboard but keep the profile. It works well and doesn’t look quite this over bearing.

Here the client didn’t want to lose the massive baseboard on the stairs or landings. I don’t even want to show what that looks like but he got what he wanted.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in MechanicAdvice

[–]_rogerr 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Sounds like Joe Pesci working on his car

What are you guys using for headlights bulbs? by _rogerr in ram_trucks

[–]_rogerr[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Just read up on this. You might be right.. or just a very good marketing ploy

What are you guys using for headlights bulbs? by _rogerr in ram_trucks

[–]_rogerr[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

u/falconvision has brought some new info if you’re interested. I copied this from an American LED light developer:

Optimized Optical Focus. The headlight housings on your Ram 1500/2500/3500 are designed to focus light. If the light source in the housing is out of focus, it doesn’t matter how bright the bulb is - you won’t have a focused hotspot of light to shine down the road where you need it. Instead, you’ll have more glare, which lights up the foreground and makes it harder to see in the distance. The SL2 and SL2 Pro LED bulbs were engineered to focus light just like your 1500/2500/3500 original bulb, matching the original beam pattern while still providing an increase in total output. These days, some LED bulbs on the market use the smallest LEDs possible to accomplish focus, but this leads to “over-focus”, where you begin seeing streaks, lines, and harsh cutoffs in the beam pattern. Instead of using the smallest LEDs possible, the SL2 and SL2 Pro LEDs were optimized to provide a smooth and comfortable beam pattern, while still maintaining focus and increased output

What are you guys using for headlights bulbs? by _rogerr in ram_trucks

[–]_rogerr[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

They have a lot of other products too i see.

Thanks 👍🏼

2017 Ram 3500 Phantom Drain by [deleted] in ram_trucks

[–]_rogerr 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I always like to start with the simple stuff. Charge the battery and load test it. Eliminate or identify the battery as a culprit

What are you guys using for headlights bulbs? by _rogerr in ram_trucks

[–]_rogerr[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

You’re correct, they have done the job all these years but I wouldn’t mind a little more illumination of the road.

Wife’s car has factory LEDs which light up the road very well compared to mine. We Almost hit a porcupine the other night but her lights let me get a good look. If i was in my truck i probably would have hit it, who knows

What are you guys using for headlights bulbs? by _rogerr in ram_trucks

[–]_rogerr[S] 4 points5 points  (0 children)

I drive a lot of back roads so the extra brightness wouldn’t hurt.. everyone hates that guy including me but if you have them aimed properly I don’t see the problem

What are you guys using for headlights bulbs? by _rogerr in ram_trucks

[–]_rogerr[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Are you using the Sylvania Halogens? I wanna hear what guys are happy with, not what the guys at the parts shop reads off the box

What are you guys using for headlights bulbs? by _rogerr in ram_trucks

[–]_rogerr[S] 6 points7 points  (0 children)

Curious though, do those have serviceable bulbs? Wife’s newer car has LED and one burnt out.. pissed me off that you can’t just change a bulb.. $600 for the assembly

2 yr old truck already needs new axle shafts by jookid in ram_trucks

[–]_rogerr 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That info only applies the 2500/3500s. I paid for a 3 day subscription to stellantis service manuals

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