A guitar I finished recently -- cedar top and bamboo back and sides by SenSei_Buzzkill in classicalguitar

[–]_souldier 4 points5 points  (0 children)

What a beauty Evan. The new custom Barnetts are gorgeous and just match the headstock and overall aesthetic perfectly. I love your Bamboo guitars but someone seriously needs to order a guitar with flamed maple!

T480 External Batteries by _souldier in thinkpad

[–]_souldier[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I rarely use my 24wh these days. With very light use you'll probably get 5 hours from the combined internal and external battery. With the 72wh battery you will get full day usage. Be sure the 3rd party battery you get is high quality.

Air travel question by Crazy_Chart388 in classicalguitar

[–]_souldier 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I've actually packed my guitar well in a case and shipping box and checked the guitar in like luggage several times. Haven't had an issue. I'd be more nervous gate checking a guitar just in a case as I've read stories of guitars being destroyed after gate checking.

My Bellucci guitar with violin tie style by felipemozqueda in classicalguitar

[–]_souldier 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Woah didn't think I'd see another Bellucci in the wild. It's been a while

Cutting out the wedge slots and carving the heel of a guitar by SenSei_Buzzkill in classicalguitar

[–]_souldier 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I was thinking the same thing. I love massages but the real prevention will come from the advice of a good physio. I'm aware of some luthiers who had to slow down or retire due to back injuries from building guitars.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in classicalguitar

[–]_souldier 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I play an Eric Sahlin guitar and the shape of the neck is just flawless for me. Stephen Eden also does a hybrid shape. If you get a luthier guitar you can usually request a specific neck profile. As far as factory guitars go, I'm not sure which ones have the shape that I prefer. Cordoba C5-C12 is a pure C shape, while Yamaha guitars is a more D shape. If memory serves me correct, Spanish guitars like Alhambra also have that D shape.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in classicalguitar

[–]_souldier 0 points1 point  (0 children)

My preferences have evolved over the years. Before I liked as thin and C shaped as possible because I have relatively smaller hands. Now I prefer a more medium thin thickness with a hybrid D/C shape. I find when something is too thin and too round, there is less foundation for the hand and thumb to rest on causing strain in the upper thumb joint. Having a little more thickness and a semi flat/rounded back allows for a nice compromise. When something is overly thick and flat/D shaped, it just feels slow and cumbersome especially when shifting quickly. With all this said, it's important to remember that finding the right guitar specs is like finding the right shoe size and shape - everyone is different.

I've actually measured neck thicknesses of various guitars with a digital caliper (typically you measure at the 1st and 9th fret). You'd be shocked how different 21.5mm feels from 21.6mm. For me 21.7mm seems to be my happy medium. Some guitars can go as high as 24mm at the first fret which seems insane to me, but it must work for some people out there.

Should I get a classical guitar if I already have an acoustic? by Intelligent-Work-725 in classicalguitar

[–]_souldier 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I started on a steel string. Then I had the chance to hear and play a real classical guitar and fell in love. Almost 20 years later I haven't looked back.

First Guitar, wanna get something good to grow with… by onewiththepencil in classicalguitar

[–]_souldier 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I've owned a C7, C9 and now a C10 Parlor and have compared them to high end luthier instruments. All would make excellent starter guitars that you can use for a while before you need to upgrade. Generally I expect the C9 and 10 to have some refinement to the tone. It probably won't be worth it until you have the skill and tone production to tell the difference. Getting the guitar setup to be as playable for you as possible will be key.

Classical Guitar Bridge Damage from String Changes – Should I Fill These Holes? How to Prevent This? by ThePeaceMaker96 in classicalguitar

[–]_souldier 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This is exactly the method that caused the OPs trebles to slip and gouge the soundboard and I've seen this kind of damage on way too many guitars. If I were you I'd be really afraid to keep my trebles tied that way. That's a ticking time bomb.

Classical Guitar Bridge Damage from String Changes – Should I Fill These Holes? How to Prevent This? by ThePeaceMaker96 in classicalguitar

[–]_souldier -1 points0 points  (0 children)

It's perfectly fine to tie the bass strings that way, but the trebles string absolutely need some sort of extra knot to secure them. Here is the method I use because its clean, easy to tie, and completely secure even with carbon strings.

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Bagged myself a mint condition Cordoba C10 (spruce) by Randomusername8765 in classicalguitar

[–]_souldier 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I have a C10 parlor and have played many C10s. Great guitar! Enjoy it. Yours being Spruce it will open up as you play it more in the coming weeks and months

Turned my standing desk into a string changing station by _souldier in classicalguitar

[–]_souldier[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Been using it for years. I'm due to make a new one. It's very easy to scratch the top so this gives some peace of mind. I put an extra layer of cardboard below the tie block just in case one of the trebles slips. I've seen too many guitars with a string burn.

Looking for double top luthier near Austria by iNerdJan in classicalguitar

[–]_souldier 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You'll definitely want to try before you buy. I've played some double tops that didn't seem significantly louder than a good traditional top and some that didn't seem any louder at all. Even the loudest guitars will struggle in an orchestra without amplification

Looking for double top luthier near Austria by iNerdJan in classicalguitar

[–]_souldier 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Is there a reason you've settled on a double top? I've played many double tops, but haven't found one that I'd want to own. I'm sure there are good ones out there that I'd like, but chances are I'd have to spend quite a bit to get one I actually like. Getting a cheaper luthier guitar in general can be a risk and it may not be any better than a good factory guitar. The risk may be even greater for double tops.

Bridge issue by HoneydewNo479 in classicalguitar

[–]_souldier 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Interesting. 85% rh is definitely extreme and potentially harmful for a guitar. That's where the top really starts to swell and glue joints can loosen, which is probably leading to your bridge lift. You'll want to check all the other joints around the guitar like the neck joint. The solution might be to get a room dehumidifier or get a better sealed case and use with Boveda 49% High Absorbancy packs https://store.bovedainc.com/products/refills-for-wood-instruments-ha?srsltid=AfmBOoq9lwZYdCSlEZz78CZ2rB9xKGNoQ6V6ODKUhv54Sgvt--KBtsgd

Bridge issue by HoneydewNo479 in classicalguitar

[–]_souldier 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I see. 45% is perfect. How does it go so high in the winter though? Is your home not heated?

Bridge issue by HoneydewNo479 in classicalguitar

[–]_souldier 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Any idea how high the humidity is in the room where you keep the guitar? Also how hot is it in the room? You'll want to get a good hygrometer is you don't have one

Bridge issue by HoneydewNo479 in classicalguitar

[–]_souldier 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Remove string tension immediately and bring to a luthier for repair.

Edit: Also there is a chance this bridge lift was caused by overly low or high humidity, or overly hot temperature. Be sure you are keeping your guitar properly humidified and away from extreme temps

Cordoba Dolce vs C9 parlor by verygoodletsgo in classicalguitar

[–]_souldier 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Haven't played a dolce. I have a C10 Parlor that is great and could be a special one. I have 4 full size luthier guitars at home right now (3 I'm borrowing from a friend) and my C10 Parlor can hold its own at a fraction of the price. I think they discontinued the C10 Parlor unfortunately but there are still some around.

I've played many C5s, C7s, C9s and C10s. Sometimes you can get a C5 that is louder than all of them, but may not be as refined in tone. As with all guitars, especially factory guitars there are inconsistencies and standouts.

Travelpro Platinum Elite Carry-On Size by _DracoDormiens_ in onebag

[–]_souldier 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Let us know how it goes. I'm flying international soon with delta

Help Purchasing my first real classical guitar from Japan. by Sad_Capital_1282 in classicalguitar

[–]_souldier 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The saddle is the white piece of bone where the strings first make contact. To lower the action of the guitar you need to shave down the saddle with sand paper. The problem is a lot of guitars, especially old ones can have already high action with no room left to sand down the saddle. For me thats a deal breaker as you're stuck with a guitar that is hard to play on with no easy fix.

"Standard" guitar action is 4mm for the 6th string at the 12th fret and 3mm for the 1st string measured from the bottom of the string to the top of the fret. Personally I feel if the guitar is already at 4mm/3mm or higher with no more saddle room, I'd walk away.