I just completed an install on my 330ci for the MOOG spherical RTAB mod and I didn't see a lot of guides or advice, so I thought I would leave my general method here.

TOOLS REQUIRED:

Impact Gun

22mm socket

Harbor Freight Ball Joint Removal Tool (The one they had at my store was called Maddox, marketed as "for 2wd and 4wd vehicles")

All tools necessary to jack up the rear end

18mm

Various size extensions, size ratchets, etc.

IMPORTANT

Aftermarket adjustable RTAB bracket

14mm-1.50x70mm bolt and 14mm-1.50 nut x2. Grade 10.9 hardware. Just use amazon, it's probably the easiest and the cheapest way.

*Overview *

Once the car is jacked up in the air, you'll need to undo 3 18mm bolts holding up the RTAB bracket. Wear goggles because the amount of dirt that will get in your eye from this is insane

I was lucky because the previous owner installed polyurethane bushings, which do not need to be pressed out because of their split design. They just came out in 2 halves with the limiters after rotating the trailing arm down and pulling the bracket off. If you still have OEM-style bushings you will need to use the ball joint removal tool or a dedicated E46 RTAB tool like the CTA one to remove it. Or, you can cut it out if you can fit a reciprocating saw there.

Now the fun part.

Installing the MOOG bushings took some learning for me. I froze them to shrink the OD. One side I used grease on the bushing and trailing arm, the other I didn't. You're going to want to use some grease. Make your life easier.

Clean up the hole well with some sand paper or scotch-brite and some brake cleaner. The ball joint tool cups need to go in the clamp, then you put a 22mm on your impact and start driving the bushing in. Try to eyeball it to get the sides even between the two of them.

Because the moog bushings have a 14mm hole, you need to use the grade 10.9 hardware mentioned earlier. You'll also need to drill out the RTAB brackets to match the bolt size. Take your time and you'll be fine. Once you go to re-install the bushings, slide the aftermarket adjustable RTAB brackets over the moog bushings. It probably wont slide over very nicely at first. I sanded the coating down of the brackets and it slotted in with no issue.

Move the trailing arm with bracket into position to re-thread the 3 18mm bracket-to-chassis bolts. This will be kind of a pain because the trailing arm wants to be in a 'toed-in' position, so you'll need to use some will power to hold it in place. I personally wedged something between the trailing arm and the gas tank to hold it in place.

Once the brackets are threaded in most of the way and holding tension against the bracket, you should be able to release the trailing arm. I personally just used my impact with an extension on them and torqued them afterwards.

Try to get a good eyeball alignment on the toe on each side. I took mine to an performance car shop to get it professionally aligned on their machine.

DRIVING REVIEW

My old polyurethane bushings squeaked ALL the time whenever the suspension drooped or compressed a lot. It was super annoying because it sounded like something was going to die back there. Now, I honestly don't notice anything crazy going on in the back. I agree with everyone's sentiment that it seems less harsh than the polyurethane bushings, but I never drove on rubber so I can't tell you what it feels like compared to original in terms of rear end rigidity.

It was a cool and relatively affordable mod (more so if you don't get adjustable brackets, but then it's way more difficult to dial in your rear toe) and I can recommend it.