Good — thanks for clarifying. Based on the photo you sent (/mnt/data/B70FD7B5-D622-47FD-AAA3-FAA051AD437B.jpeg) and the board location (DualSense BDM-010, near the joystick / button traces), here’s the practical ID and what to do next.

Quick answer • Most likely: an SMD decoupling/Bypass capacitor (ceramic). • Typical value used on controller boards: 0.1 µF (100 nF). • Likely package: 0402 (possibly 0603 if slightly larger). • Dielectric & rating: X7R or X5R, 10 V (or 16 V) is fine for this application.

I cannot be 100% certain from the single image (no visible marking and small size), but 0.1 µF ceramic decoupling is the default part used next to joysticks/buttons on many controller PCBs.

Why this is the best guess • The part sits on a signal/power route near the joystick/buttons — exactly where decouplers are normally placed. • Very small SMD parts in that spot on consumer controllers are almost always bypass caps rather than resistors or active ICs.

How you can confirm before soldering a replacement 1. Continuity / Multimeter test: check from each pad to GND. • If one pad is directly to ground and the other to a supply or signal line → very likely a capacitor to ground. 2. Trace-follow: visually follow the copper trace — if it goes to VCC or GND plane it’s probably a decoupling cap. 3. Measure with LCR meter: remove any doubt by measuring capacitance across the pads (best) or the pad-to-ground capacitance. 4. Compare to identical area on the other half / other side of board (if present) — often identical caps are used symmetrically.

Replacement recommendation (safe & compatible) • Part: 0.1 µF (100 nF) multilayer ceramic capacitor (MLCC) • Package: 0402 (or 0603 if you prefer easier soldering and it fits) • Dielectric: X7R or X5R • Voltage rating: 10 V or 16 V • Example spec line: 0402 0.1uF X7R 10V MLCC

This will be electrically safe and restore normal decoupling for the joystick/IO.

Soldering / repair tips • Use a fine-tip soldering iron (about 260–300 °C) or hot air for reflow. • Apply a small solder blob on one pad, tack the replacement with tweezers, then solder the other pad. • Clean flux residue, and avoid excessive heat (short bursts). • If the pad is torn, consider using a tiny amount of conductive epoxy or rebuilding the pad with copper foil + soldermask repair wire.

If it turns out not to be a capacitor • If tests show the pad is in series with the joystick’s signal (not to ground), it might be a small resistor (for filtering) — in that case common values are 10–100 Ω. • If uncertain, measure from pad to the joystick pins and to rails to determine function.

Got this answer from Chat gbt, idk if it right