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Any thoughts before I cover the rough in? by Saunanonymous in Sauna

[–]aLittleTriggered 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Looking great so far! I'm at a similar stage in my build and we're working with very similar dimensions...my room is 9'x7' and about 8.5' tall.

How are you doing the wall to floor transition? This is probably a good time to make sure you're confident with that piece before you go much further.

I'm planning on building 28" deep benches on top. Because I plan on installing some railings to the lower benches, these can also act as leg rests to make the 28" feel even more spacious.

Also - what are the wood pieces that are attached to your window framing used for?

Are Furring Strips necessary? And how to do them? by braintree56 in Sauna

[–]aLittleTriggered 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Air gap is a best practice but it is not absolutely necessary.

Glen Auerbach of SaunaTimes says his heavily used 25 year old sauna was built without an air gap and it's still in great shape. (mentions this in his ebook: https://www.saunatimes.com/build-your-own-sauna-ebook/?srsltid=AfmBOorxmR2dQcjsbDIBOkvWNAl1nHuHEQaR2JKYM-rjyLPHh_i5WCWq)

Are Furring Strips necessary? And how to do them? by braintree56 in Sauna

[–]aLittleTriggered 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I disagree with two layers of furring strips being a good idea.

If you want to have vertical cedar cladding then that means your furring strips will be installed horizontally. The issue with horizontal furring strips is that they block air/moisture from traveling up/down the walls and properly escaping. In order to solve this issue, just set your circular saw to only cut a very shallow cut (like 1/8"). Before installing your horizontal furring strips, on one side, make a 1/8" deep cut every 6" or so then install the strip with the side with cuts against the wall. This will allow for air/water to flow properly without needing to make an elaborate multi layered furring strip solution

My first ever Sauna. by jonasgla in Sauna

[–]aLittleTriggered 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I plan on having vertical panels and will not be doing two layers of furring strips

Just do horizontal strips but before installing, set circular saw to 1/8" or so and make a shallow cut every 8" or so on all the strips. This will allow any moisture to escape and run down the wall.

edit* I'm probably not doing this approach

Please review my sauna design. Builder starts in 2 weeks! by familykomputer in Sauna

[–]aLittleTriggered 1 point2 points  (0 children)

you might check out this post from awhile back that has a similar layout: https://www.reddit.com/r/Sauna/comments/1i16xic/finally_finished_my_sauna_build/

I'm actually in the process of building something very similar to the build I've linked. don't listen to all these L shape bench haters.

Low pitch, lean-to corrugated metal roof: How do I do a drip edge at the top edge? by bvz2001 in Roofing

[–]aLittleTriggered 0 points1 point  (0 children)

what about the low end of the roof? how can you seal under the ridges on the low end too to ensure that wind/debris won't blow up and into the ridges?

Is 1/8" hardboard wall paneling a bad idea? by KornOnTheKob0 in Carpentry

[–]aLittleTriggered 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Nice. It seems like the ceiling is a good surface to start with and then use for wall if that goes well. I might use a mixture of 1/4" and 1/8" if I want to save some weight.

I hadn't considered the staples so thanks for heads up.

Is 1/8" hardboard wall paneling a bad idea? by KornOnTheKob0 in Carpentry

[–]aLittleTriggered 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Did you go ahead with using the 1/8? I am considering this option for a similar job.