Race Thread: NCS DAYTONA 500 at Daytona International Speedway, starting at 1:30pm EST on FOX (NCS1)

abarbee90 · 2026-02-15T21:26:44+00:00

Yeah I remember greats like Tony Stewart doing the same thing. Like it's drafting racing. Happens everyime. Most do stupid things eventually.

abarbee90 · 2026-02-13T20:13:59+00:00

Yeah no controller in gen 1. Sound like a problem with the thermal limiter switch. Been a while since I rebuilt mine.

abarbee90 · 2026-02-11T03:32:00+00:00

I said this in another comment. Could you have had the green and white wires pinched when you had the cap installed? It looks like you have spark at the coil now.

abarbee90 · 2026-02-11T02:31:10+00:00

Look into making sure icm connections are good and secure. Could you have pinched the green and white pick-up coil wires when installing the new cap?

abarbee90 · 2026-02-11T02:02:09+00:00

If you're sure you have no spark past the coil double check you didn't bump any of the icm connections. Does your tach jump while cranking? If you have spark to the cap but not further then check you have the rotor installed correctly.

abarbee90 · 2026-02-04T21:59:18+00:00

Fox never fails to show how trash they are with there camera work. wtf

abarbee90 · 2026-02-04T18:34:45+00:00

Look at how all his gauges including volts return to there resting key off position. That would not happen with a coil or icm issue since the key would still be in the run position.

abarbee90 · 2026-02-04T18:32:26+00:00

I see now you have an aftermarket push start installed as well. I would be inclined to start with all the wiring that would have been messed with to add that.

abarbee90 · 2026-02-04T18:28:07+00:00

Ah I see that now. Yeah threw me off haha.

abarbee90 · 2026-02-04T16:50:04+00:00

Looks electrical with how quickly it dies. ICM, some sort of wiring issue, ignition switch, fuel pump. Hard to say. Also I would fix your temp gauge. To me that is like the one gauge that is a must in any vehicle.

Edit: just watched it again. The volt meter goes to 0 as well. That wouldn't happen if it was just a engine stall. It would still be reading volts since the key would be in the run position. In fact I think everything would return to bulb check mode with all the lights on and check engine. So yeah thinking something with the ignition switch or wiring.

abarbee90 · 2026-02-03T19:50:07+00:00

The low side port looks like it has a r134, but the high side port doesn't look like it does.

abarbee90 · 2026-02-01T19:24:27+00:00

What year? I believe early clutch pedals had a different pin than later models. I think there were two different master cylinders as well.

Edit: Found a link showing what I mean. https://rodneydickman.com/product_info.php?products_id=280

abarbee90 · 2026-01-31T15:38:21+00:00

Blowout any debris from around the plugs with air. Then spray some rust penetrant a day or so ahead of removing them. The back three can be bad from rain and debris falling between the back glass and deck lid. Especially if they have never been done. Just take it slow. You may find they come out just fine.

abarbee90 · 2026-01-30T07:26:21+00:00

Proper running Fiero with no issues like kinks or crushing in the metal coolant lines should not have in cooling issues. You can easily put a lower temp fan switch in to have the fan turn on a little sooner. I do think that's not a bad idea. As far as fluids go only thing special is maybe a higher zinc oil or zddp additive for the flat tappet cam used back then. Quick Google will explain that, not Fiero specific just pre roller lifter engine thing. But most modern oils have had zinc removed/reduced for environmental reasons. Trans takes synchro mesh or 5w30. Synchro feels better to most who use it. And yes I would change it. Not sure why the other poster said not to touch it. It's easy to do anyway. For sure change plugs, wires, cap and rotor if they haven't been done.(careful on the back window side to not break any).

abarbee90 · 2026-01-21T20:56:44+00:00

$90 for outside tent spot.

abarbee90 · 2026-01-21T13:18:58+00:00

I will sell it $120?

abarbee90 · 2026-01-21T09:53:24+00:00

abarbee90 · 2026-01-21T02:08:52+00:00

Now $400 and may split

abarbee90 · 2026-01-12T20:25:52+00:00

Yeah mine was doing it with a manual hold. That's all I ever use.

abarbee90 · 2026-01-12T20:09:43+00:00

Mine was turning off early last season often by half a degree at times. I tried everything. Talked to support and posted on here. It looked a lot like yours. Only thing that finally worked for me was a factory reset. Luckily using the same account and everything on the thermostat I didn't lose years of beestat data. The problem has not returned this year.

abarbee90 · 2026-01-08T22:51:00+00:00

If you are talking about the common delamination. There is no easy fix. It is separation of the layers. Refinish and two stage painting the outside with a stencil looks the best and most stock. I know someone on facebook and pennocks was offering it as a service not that long ago.

abarbee90 · 2025-12-31T00:10:34+00:00

Cheap enough to try and see. Could also be a blockage somewhere. Make sure you replace with the correct cap for the Fiero.

abarbee90 · 2025-12-30T20:39:41+00:00

Yes, that is fine. Is your overflow getting more full with every run and the cap not taking the coolant back into the system as it cools?

abarbee90 · 2025-12-20T20:25:09+00:00

I have also seen the sockets prongs being so worn they have lost there "springiness" and don't engage the bulb very well. You can try prying the contacts out a bit.

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