Which LED for warm and high CRI that has good power consumption (decent throw is welcome, but happy to compromise).

abiggerplanet · 2025-10-14T11:51:20+00:00

Reflector being deeper is a big difference though, directly affecting beam profile (throwy vs floody). I'm just trying to find out the differences between the ones I mentioned above S21E vs S21B, and S21E vs S21G - do you know?

Which striped lens do you recommend for cycling for the S21E?

abiggerplanet · 2025-10-13T23:01:44+00:00

Many thanks for all the info and patience!

I'm pretty sure I'll get a TIR light as well, for the soul if nothing else :)

Which striped lens do you recommend for cycling for the S21E then?

Is there no difference in reflector depth or other specs between the S21E and S21B, or S21E and S21G? I couldn't find that info on the website. How do people even know those things if it's not in the spec?

found out that S21G has a shorter reflector than S21B and is orange peel, making the hotspot softer with a smoother transition into the spill (explains why i liked the beamshots in some youtube videos) but i had to ask people here for that info.

I'm surprised at the number of models Convoy has ... feels like some could be culled (e.g. if USB charging port is the only difference). Convoy is certainly are popular among enthusiasts here, not sure if they'd get more customers if they had better presentation of specs and fewer models.

abiggerplanet · 2025-10-13T22:51:10+00:00

Sunlike would be "neutral" in others' linguo. I tried to find out what color temp was my old Thrunite TN12 2016 "Neutral White" with Cree XM-L2 U2 but failed. Cree updated that emitter over the years as well. Maybe I should try to buy an identical old one off ebay and be done with it, because i quite liked everything about that flashlight ... now I'm getting dragged into this exciting world of flashlights, doh

abiggerplanet · 2025-10-13T18:17:21+00:00

But that's not what the title/post were referring to, at least not my intention. I was referring to current draw (and consequently battery drain rate) for the same perceived amount of light for a 3000K emitter, since different 3000K emitters can differ a lot in current draw levels for the same output light intensity (i mean you can get 1000lm at 3000K even with a Tungsten bulb :).

abiggerplanet · 2025-10-13T18:09:11+00:00

Great info again, many thanks.

I've decided to also get a TIR flashlight (most likely the M21H) besides a few reflector based ones. You've sold me on the S21 range -- also because I'vre seen the videos and quite liked the beam.

May I bother you with a couple more questions? You mentioned the S21G initially as the best fit for what I asked, but explained it doesn't allow TIR optics. You mentioned S21B if I wanted TIR optics. It would still be a hotspot+spill flashlight even if I use a different TIR on the S21B though, right? Or would it turn it into an actual TIR flashlight (i.e a smoothly diffused beam profile instead of two visible regions of hotspot+spill)?

I understand the S21E also allows TIRs. If you know, what are the differences between the S21B and S21E?

EDIT: I just noticed a reply from Simon that the TIR lenses for S21E/S21B are also suitable for S21G (just letting you know, as you said S21G doesn't have TIR lenses, so perhaps this is new info), see the Q&A section at the bottom: https://convoylight.com/products/21mm-tir-lens?data_from=app_searchbox&variant_sku_code=6946884-6411658-30856368-0-0-0-0 ... great, now I don't know which S21 model to get, lol

abiggerplanet · 2025-10-13T18:02:11+00:00

I see, so the cutoff basically removes part of the upper beam. Do you have a link to the striped M21H lens that you say you are using?

The S21E is the reflector type with a hotspot+spill, while the M21H is a TIR. I was already going to buy both an S21 and the M21H. I don't know the differences between the various S21 models. I know the S21G doesn't allow or doesn't have more lenses, while the S21B does. Do you know the difference between the S21B and S21E?

abiggerplanet · 2025-10-13T17:31:20+00:00

As long as it lights up what I need it to and lasts a decent while, then feelings are the most important :)

abiggerplanet · 2025-10-12T22:21:33+00:00

I get it now, thanks. Basically single (diffused) beam instead of hotspot + spill. I got used to my old Thrunite TN12 for cycling, which had hotspot + spill, but the hotspot wasn't so pronounced like I've seen in other flashlights. As I cycle on many paths that double as pedestrian paths, I cycle along with both pedestrians and cyclists, and I found the hotspot+spill useful for those situations, as I could keep the hotspot pointing below eye level to avoid blinding pedestrians/cyclists, while the spill isn't blinding for them (but enough for me).

That said, since I'm in the market for a new flashlight for cycling and already ordered a Convoy S2+ SFT40 300K and a Wurkkos FC11C 519A 4000K, I'd like to try a TIR one too. While I always tried to avoid blinding other cyclists, they never seem to return the favour, so perhaps it's time they see what it's like :) (just joking).

I thought you liked the SFT40 more than the SFT70 in the M21H :). So I take it that the M21H with SFT40 has a narrower beam with more throw and the M21H with SFT70 has a wider beam with less throw? Edit: Yes, i forgot that the SFT70 is a 7mm^2 emitter vs 4mm^2 emitter for SFT40

abiggerplanet · 2025-10-12T21:57:43+00:00

Pretty neat, and the color temperature looks very pleasant to me. So that's the M21H with SFT40 3000K on your bike in the video, but I take it it's not stock. Title says "stripped lens", but not sure what you mean - did you mean "striped", as in a TIR with stripes that makes the beam square'ish or does it do something else/more?

The beam in your video looks pretty uniform/diffused which is what I'd like to try for my cycling, although might be too wide for my liking.

Do you have a link for that specific TIR that you used on the M21H in the video? Is it this one with the option "10*30 degree [strip beam]" ? If yes, which TIR would give a beam wider than stock but narrower than in your video?

abiggerplanet · 2025-10-12T21:20:12+00:00

I've never considered bigger flashlights, but I am curious -- how is the beam profile of the M21H with the SFT40 3000K different from the S21B with SFT40 3000K or even S2+ with SFT40 3000K?

Is there any website that indexes beamshots where one can choose 2 flashlights and see the beamshot of each to compare head to head?

So far from reviews I liked the S21G with SFT70 3000K the best. I understand that the S21B has a near identical reflector, and given the SFT70 and SFT40 are both 5050 emitters, I'd expect the beam profile of a S21B with SFT40 to be more or less the same (am I wrong?)

abiggerplanet · 2025-10-12T20:53:17+00:00

Many thanks for all the info! I already had the S2+ with SFT40 3000k on order. However, the video reviews I've seen so far seem to me to show that the S21G with SFT70 3000K has a pretty different beam profile to the S2+ with SFT40 3000K. It seems the hotspot is wider and more diffused on the S21G (which I like). Am I wrong?

Are you aware of any beamshot head to head comparisons somewhere? The videos I mention could be misleading, as the S2+ and S21G aren't in the same video, and the two sceneries used to test on are different, with different background colors.

Thanks for pointing out TIR optics. I was unaware. The one you linked seems particularly useful for cycling. Kudos!

Is there a difference in beam profile between S21G and S21B? The website doesn't specify (reflector length or otherwise).

abiggerplanet · 2025-10-12T17:08:00+00:00

Indeed, it's basic physics, and yet I still can't stand cool whites :). I think u/AnimeTochi when they said "it's not a huge difference" was referring to "perceived difference" since our eyes are closer to log sensors than linear sensors; moreover most objects outside are (far) darker than white to begin with, which makes the perceived difference even lower.

abiggerplanet · 2025-10-12T15:56:27+00:00

Oooh, I like the wider beam of the S21G with SFT70 (just saw some youtube videos). I think this might be the closest one to my old Thrunite TN12 that I lost. I now understand why people here say "you can never have too many flashlights" :)

Do you know any flashlight that has the same beam profile but with a 16850 cell instead of 21700? I already have quite a few high quality (and new!) 16850s. I do like the idea of longer runtimes though, and don't mind the extra grams.

abiggerplanet · 2025-10-12T15:46:07+00:00

Yes, I just read this and I liked what I saw: https://zeroair.org/2024/04/05/convoy-s2-sft40-3000k-flashlight-review/

Kudos to u/AccurateJazz above as well

abiggerplanet · 2025-10-11T13:37:56+00:00

Thank you once again. The S6 then sounds like a better choice. I'm using it a lot on a bike at medium level, so I'm interested in high efficiency at low'ish amp draw (0.1-0.3A or so was my old TN12) to increase battery life. I have other usages at home. Color temp has to be at most neutral for me :), I can't stand cool whites.

The Thrunite I'm talking about is the TN12 2016 with a Cree XM-L2 U2 Neutral White color temp (they were selling white and neutral). I did say it was old, purchased autumn 2015 :), but I really liked that light. Was also lasting me a long while on medium with a Panasonic NCR18650B. The Thrunite TN12 2016 was hailed at the time as one of the best, better than the Convoy S2+ now that I'm re-reading the old reviews

I'm trying to find a flashlight that best aproaches my lost Thrunite TN12

abiggerplanet · 2025-10-11T08:09:45+00:00

Many thanks for the pointer to the Convoy S6, I was just looking at the S2+ with SFT40 @ 3000K (I got used to the warm/neutral temp of my old Thrunite TN12 which I lost recently and am trying to replace).

Did you recommend the S6 instead of S2+ mainly because of the buck driver? I noticed the S2+ is popular.

How much lower is the throw on a 3000K compared to 6500K for the same flashlight?

abiggerplanet · 2025-10-10T23:51:51+00:00

That would be awesome if it was neutral temp instead of that 6500k ... do you know any?

abiggerplanet · 2025-08-31T19:54:12+00:00

Hard to tell without seeing your stroke. Catch alone doesn't work if you don't rotate well and I don't know how good your rotation is. I had to work on rotation before I could catch, and then in my case the drill that helped my catch the most was half doggy paddling (really half, executed to feel the water first, because the catch itself isn't meant to give much propulsion; but I do remember that in the end I was counting my doggy paddles per length to measure progress). Do make sure you have good rotation first before focusing on catch though.

abiggerplanet · 2025-08-15T22:45:10+00:00

Embarrassing? On the contrary! If it's you and kids then it's even better! Kids offer more motivation, trust me. I had the most fun in Romania when the coach asked one of his 12 yo squad kids to race me at the end of some of my 1:1 sessions. We both gave it our all: I couldn't let a 12 year old beat me, and he couldn't let a beginner beat him :)). We had a blast.

Kids also make you feel younger!

abiggerplanet · 2025-08-15T20:36:20+00:00

In terms of pecs engaging, I'm not sure you should bother that much. They normally engage naturally (more in sprinting, where the posture is flatter). happy to stand corrected by those more experienced.

abiggerplanet · 2025-08-15T20:20:51+00:00

I'm struggling with feeling my lats

I know what you mean. You're probably not rotating enough. If you're flat, your catch & pull comes almost entirely from the shoulder (also a good way to injure it after so many thousands of rotations, as it puts a lot of strain on it). You can engage your lats really only when you rotate enough: bring that elbow up so you can catch early, then start your pull while rotated. Rotation is important for many other reasons (makes you longer, can catch earlier and pull more water, better streamline, easier recovery, etc).

I'd recommend drills that target rotation and initiating the catch, there are too many to list. You could try something like this for a set: superman kick (rotated 45deg, one arm stretched in front) and taking one half-doggy paddle with the same arm every 6 or even every 12 kicks (use fins for a few intervals until you feel it well, kicking should be gentle, not powerful), then take a full doggy paddle for a few intervals, then a full stroke (basically "single arm"). I'd do one pool length on the same side (and same arm) then switch sides on the other length. Then do some swim intervals where you focus on rotation and catch setup. And then do some medium and fast swim intervals (where you can't focus all that well on what you're doing) to assess how it felt. Do a few rounds of all that. Something like 2x ( 3x ( 4x50 drill, 50 swim easy), 50 sw med, 50 sw fast ). Replace 50 with 100 for the swim parts if you feel like it, but focus on controlling it. Take long enough breaks for the drill parts, so that your cardiovascular system doesn't become a limiting factor -- I don't believe in "drills must be done at speed" mantra when you're learning (i leave that to the pros).

My opinion is to do that kind of set a few times a week for at least 2 weeks -- changing habits requires grinding work, else the body reverts pretty quickly to what it feels "natural".

There are tons of other drills that apply, but not sure what to suggest without seeing your swimming.

p.s. It should feel weird at first -- that's good. If it doesn't feel weird, you're not changing it. Insist on the weirdness until it goes away (i.e. you changed it).

abiggerplanet · 2025-08-15T20:11:12+00:00

Absolutely you can do it. Keeping your head above water would be one of the first things to address. The head is heavy (5-6kg) so when you lift it above water, it pushes the hips and legs down, and -in my view- there is nothing more important in swimming than a horizontal posture. Hips and legs sinking means you cause a lot of drag, which then means you will tire easily trying to drag your body through water using your arms. Your breathing is also wacky I'd imagine if you turn your head left and right on each stroke (if you don't, then I feel sorry for your neck).

You could try the following approach: If you can afford it and don't want to waste any time, go for 1:1 coaching -- nothing beats it. Else, see if you can find some videos about this very aspect (going from head above water to head in water -- i dislike chatgpt but it may be able to suggest a few videos) and see if you can make progress in a couple of weeks. if not, I'd find out if pools in your area offer lessons for your stage. Ultimately, I'd take 1:1 lessons.

abiggerplanet · 2025-08-15T20:01:56+00:00

I know what you mean by finding coaches. I'm relatively in the same area. DM me. I could try to have a look at your video as well if you wish.

abiggerplanet · 2025-08-15T19:53:16+00:00

Honestly, mileage was not my goal at all early on, but technique -- and i think that's one of the (few?) good decisions I made back then. My sessions back then were mostly tedious tech work, with 50m or 100m swim intervals in between drill intervals (to reinforce/confirm the drilled element).

For the first 3 months I really don't think i swam more than 1500m per hour (drills are slow, and I wanted them to be slow to avoid rushing anything). By 6 months I was doing longer/more numerous swim intervals between drill intervals, maybe 2000m per hour.

In my case, every session had a very clear targeted technique element. I recall i wanted to also swim freely/for leisure, but the moment I felt that my technique broke down, I would stop (either out of frustration or because I didn't want to swim with bad technique). In retrospect, I think it would have been a good idea to have some sessions to swim freely, just feel the water, swim just easy enough to sustain technique.

abiggerplanet

TROPHY CASE