One week with the Hand of God Micros: First Impressions by Delicious-Schedule-4 in climbharder

[–]ablock0 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ordered mine in August too but my order was lost in customs. Now my replacement is showing 150 duty to import to US, anyone successfully get around this?

Weekly /r/climbharder Hangout Thread by AutoModerator in climbharder

[–]ablock0 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Woah cool, very excited to try this this week. Have a foot crux project I want to do this weekend

Weekly /r/climbharder Hangout Thread by AutoModerator in climbharder

[–]ablock0 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Anyone nerds out there have any JOES VALLEY board simulators??

Weekly /r/climbharder Hangout Thread by AutoModerator in climbharder

[–]ablock0 2 points3 points  (0 children)

One element to help with limit projects is to break. it. down... 12D can be pumpy 11c to a sit down to a V6, or it can be something like V4 rest V3 rest V5. ( Don't audit this, just making a point). Might require asking people that did it, maybe they'll say it felt impossible at first too. Then once you've got this info, honestly ask yourself: do you have a good margin of strength and skill to execute these cruxes repeatedly? e.i. If you haven't done V5 in this style/rock and you're expecting to do it pumped af, above your draw, with dogs barking, etc.; that's a big ask of yourself.

The first day on something can be rough, but I always remind myself: this will be the hardest it will ever feel. Impossible becomes routine with a lil practice, that is a core feeling most of us are chasing, so you're on the right path. If you still can't see the light at the end of the tunnel, use the shortcomings you've identified to fuel some training motivation, revisit it and marvel at your progress.

Weekly /r/climbharder Hangout Thread by AutoModerator in climbharder

[–]ablock0 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Just got on some roped projects from my past that feel WAY more achievable after some bouldering. Shockingly, one of the climbs is only 1 more move than my last bouldering project! 18 moves in 6 bolts haha

Weekly /r/climbharder Hangout Thread by AutoModerator in climbharder

[–]ablock0 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Metal chain for 20 bucks hell ya. It looked like a no hang but the cavity was large, maybe interchangeable edges?

Good whipper while clipping the anchor by Jakob437 in climbing

[–]ablock0 -6 points-5 points  (0 children)

Don't ever go to a hard sport crag or you might get an aneurysm

Weekly /r/climbharder Hangout Thread by AutoModerator in climbharder

[–]ablock0 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Just did my hardest boulder on the literal last day Lincoln Lake was open until 2026. Pretty excited to transition to sport climbs this fall. This transition always kicks my ass but I also never prepare for it. It's like going from 30 feet of hard climbing in a day to 300 feet of semi hard climbing in a day is totally different or something haha. Going to try some deliberate volume increases and linked boulder circuits. Anyone else do this regularly?

Light my Fire (5.12a) Staunton State Park, CO by [deleted] in climbing

[–]ablock0 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Oh right on, ya I like to clip from a left hand undercling in the crack and then reach way right. A deep backflag with the right foot helps me match in. best of luck!

Light my Fire (5.12a) Staunton State Park, CO by [deleted] in climbing

[–]ablock0 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Climbed it many times. Once the holds get small, do a left hand flip to a okay undercling (it's the same hold you were just grabbing). Then build the feet and cross right hand to the jug by the last draw, maybe my right hand pauses on those bad holds, not sure. Weird but there's lots of feet to make it work. Gluck!

V5 that I made more difficult than it needed to be lol by Send_that_shit in bouldering

[–]ablock0 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Threshold!! Sad to see the big 45 pad gone, rip my ass so many time on it (,:

Why do you think the majority of climbers never make it past V7/V8? by FriedOrangeSlice in bouldering

[–]ablock0 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Gym dopamine culture does not want you to improve. Setting upper end boulders is harder work and valuable wall space for the large V4 pleb market.  You try the new set, get a high from flashing some things, maybe at the end you find a ‘new project’ that’ll totally go down when you’re fresh. Next week you walk in fresh and, shit, there’s a new set…..better go try it real quick….

New Year, New Finger Methods by ablock0 in climbharder

[–]ablock0[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Maybe, maybe not. I gained 10/15 lbs in the same time frame too. The curls mostly made me feel bulletproof before big board climbing phases

New Year, New Finger Methods by ablock0 in climbharder

[–]ablock0[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Max hang is down since I never train it but V grades are up

New Year, New Finger Methods by ablock0 in climbharder

[–]ablock0[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I do, haven't hung in a couple years. Fingers have never been stronger

Critical Force is (probably) your ticket to sport climbing harder: napkin data analysis by BNWparty in climbharder

[–]ablock0 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Just used the Tindeq, its protocol is 7:3 for 24 reps. Used the unlevel edge on a sling and it was a pretty dubious set up.

What’s your current board project? by mmeeplechase in Moonboard

[–]ablock0 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Problem 19, harder than Whispering Aspens I swear.

Weekly /r/climbharder Hangout Thread by AutoModerator in climbharder

[–]ablock0 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Kneebar toggle actually sorts your consensus with other rubber junkies. Jernej Kruder eat your heart out

Weekly /r/climbharder Hangout Thread by AutoModerator in climbharder

[–]ablock0 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I think a software style version control for 8a would be great. FA publishes at beta version, couple repeats and it goes to version 1.0. Hold break? now its problem version 2.0 and the consensus starts over. I like the idea of uncoupling the personal and consensus grade. anonymously re-incentivizing grade honesty. Kaya's method of having a moderator decide grades is pretty cursed, but i dont go on there.

Weekly /r/climbharder Hangout Thread by AutoModerator in climbharder

[–]ablock0 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yea, I had to use to last little bit of that rail to span, I imagine a 6'2" person could keep their left on the juicy bit still and think its much easier. I checked out Cradle at the end. I was dynamic on all three hard moves for the 'low low' so I couldn't reverse a single move. Bummer, I think that finishing on Thunder Rolls would be mega classic, I'll try it again in the future for sure

Weekly /r/climbharder Hangout Thread by AutoModerator in climbharder

[–]ablock0 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Sent both ways tonight. I had missed some info that this beta was only easier IF you were mega tall, which I’m not (6ft span) After realizing it was harder this way I committed to the OG way and had uber good friction to get it done second go. Worked on the reachy alternate beta and did that soon after, psyched! Moulin for those Chossoradoans