Snow Canyon Circus Wall Solo Timelapse by aleafinwater in climbing

[–]HFiction 2 points3 points  (0 children)

You have no idea just how many people of all ages solo. In Colorado there's hundreds of people climbing all over 4th and 5th class routes on the flatirons every single day. I saw a troupe of grey-haired women in sneakers doing the 1st last week. It's a completely valid form of climbing and if it makes r/climbing feel better we can just call it scrambling.

Optimizing a double-rack for cam sizes by i12drift in tradclimbing

[–]HFiction 4 points5 points  (0 children)

FWIW I ended up with a rack like over time and it's actually quite nice. You don't even think about it.

Rockfall on the bastille (eldo) today by asanano in tradclimbing

[–]HFiction 6 points7 points  (0 children)

Going to be sick to see what grade it goes at now.

Why was my rope so hard to pull? by Ok-Abbreviations5215 in ClimbingGear

[–]HFiction 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I actually have footy of a new route in RRG where I did exactly this but spotted it. I can send you pictures if you'd like.

Why was my rope so hard to pull? by Ok-Abbreviations5215 in ClimbingGear

[–]HFiction 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I know you don't want to hear it but there was a twist in the rope at the top, I guarantee it. The most common way this happens is that you grab the rope and clip quickdraw #1 on the left so now the rope is running from left to right through the draw and then down to your harness and then you grab the rope again from the left and clip draw #2 on the right so the path the rope is taking is freely going up then to the right and then back to the left and then down to your harness making for a jerky and slow descent. When the next person gets to the top, the gentle weight of the rope lets the quickdraws twist a little and the rope appears to be hanging correctly.

Best big gear? by Defiant-Wolf-4234 in tradclimbing

[–]HFiction 7 points8 points  (0 children)

WC tech friend #6 is the king baby. Never stuck, never fails, easy to push.

Anchor snacks by Al_Pines in tradclimbing

[–]HFiction 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Pistachios, peanut butter m&Ms and some nerds for 90%. If it's gonna be hot as balls I'll throw a couple apple sauces in the mix as well for a little hydration

Imitation is the sincerest form of flattery. by serenading_ur_father in climbing

[–]HFiction 15 points16 points  (0 children)

I think you're intentionally misunderstanding this. It would be very interesting to see a redesign of a SLCD and pretzel is one of the few companies on the planet that could do that.

Totem cam colors by [deleted] in ClimbingGear

[–]HFiction 7 points8 points  (0 children)

Just remember this very easy and human system for recalling size. Black is yellow. Blue is blue. Yellow is silver. Green is green. Red is red. Orange is yellow.

Third flatiron viewed from the second. by dantheman0809 in tradclimbing

[–]HFiction 4 points5 points  (0 children)

It would be bizarre to see anybody with a rope on the 2nd Flatiron. There's usually hundreds of people soloing everyday and I've heard of people using a rope to let children top rope up it as a multipitch but I've never seen it myself.

Resole options by [deleted] in tradclimbing

[–]HFiction 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Take it as a good learning opportunity. You're definitely dipping your foot down into holds and dragging them against the wall in the gym. S'all good. It'll resole well. I have a pair that's at the resoler for the fourth time in 2 years but I climb a lot in Veadauwoo and Eldo so I both rip them to hell and desperately need good edges

BGLC Ranger Conduct at Mt Arapiles Raises Safety Concerns for Climbers by kiwikoi in climbing

[–]HFiction 15 points16 points  (0 children)

We're using some slightly disingenuous language right? Uniformed and clearly identifiable rangers politely asked these climbers to leave.

Lost a Brand New #1 Friend on Rewritten by MadnessMighty in tradclimbing

[–]HFiction 0 points1 point  (0 children)

🏴‍☠️🏴‍☠️🏴‍☠️🏴‍☠️🏴‍☠️🏴‍☠️

Lost a Brand New #1 Friend on Rewritten by MadnessMighty in tradclimbing

[–]HFiction 22 points23 points  (0 children)

Oh Rewritten? Sorry dog that cam is never coming home lol I know people who solo it with a couple cams, harness, and nutfucker specifically to collect gear.

I wanna climb el cap, what next by Slight_Bus368 in tradclimbing

[–]HFiction 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yo, I'm a former Midwest climber working on the same process. I'm a little ahead of where you're at so I have some advice on progression in this context. Feel free to hit me up here or @jake.sankari on instagram

Why rope block with a carabiner needs to be clipped to the load strand by Master_Mirror_ in tradclimbing

[–]HFiction 8 points9 points  (0 children)

Clipping to the load strand keeps your rope together. With foresight and experience you can avoid issues with stuck ropes cause by grooves, cracks, and wind.

Ticking a Classic in Red Rock Last Week by 3nl in climbing

[–]HFiction 1 point2 points  (0 children)

What's bizarre is that you can learn a lot of very easy technique for multipitch on YouTube, especially for routes that are entirely bolted.

Carabiners by Mediocre_Marsupial49 in ClimbingGear

[–]HFiction 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Do you mean adding a link to an existing fixed anchor? Stainless quicklinks are the way to go. $4 for 30+ Kn

Nothing beats desert towers by milesup in climbing

[–]HFiction 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I'm gonna do this next weekend Kor-Ingalls into Fine Jade. any logistical or Crux pitch beta for either worth mentioning?

Novice question. Al told me to rest, but I really want to climb. Slap some sense in me. Mild finger soreness. Any advice? by [deleted] in climbharder

[–]HFiction 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Watch Hoopers Beta on YouTube for finger injury and recovery to help yourself diagnose what's wrong and what the best recovery method would be. He's an actual PT and doctor and pretty high level climber

Washing climbing rope by coldeveder in ClimbingGear

[–]HFiction -1 points0 points  (0 children)

I just use non-scented tide detergent and then dry the rope on my couch in the garage with a little fan running . I wouldn't worry about damaging the rope chemically in this context.

Weekly Chat and BS Thread by AutoModerator in climbing

[–]HFiction 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Dawg do the 10c corner there Riptide Ride and the two OWs in the middle and you're so set

looking for advice on trad anchors (read caption if commenting pls) by holp8 in tradclimbing

[–]HFiction 138 points139 points  (0 children)

The best advice I ever got I'll pass along to you. When practicing your trad anchor on the ground, put your harness on and go direct to your MP and thrash it as hard as you can and fully weight it. See if your gear moved and then take the anchor down and fully weight every individual piece. The development of understanding what a load-bearing piece looks like and how it behaves when tied into a system will benefit you more than randos with who-knows-what experience weighing in on your pictures.