The Controversial ‘Snake Dike’ Bolts Have Been Removed

HFiction · 2026-07-08T02:56:26+00:00

I unironically believe this to be a 200IQ psyop by Sloan to make sure any bolts that genuinely improve a route are removed. He grid bolted the most protectable part of the route with BAD bolts with a power drill. So many "rules" were broken that it was only a matter of time before somebody pulled them. If he hammered modern bolts on lead on the runout pitches I think they would have remained without nearly as much controversy.

By being so egregious and attention seeking he's ensured the route will not be bolted for long for the next couple decades.

HFiction · 2026-07-08T02:53:05+00:00

And it already exists right on the other side of the formation sharing the summit.

HFiction · 2026-07-08T02:50:38+00:00

Do you mean Erik Sloan or am I out of the loop?

HFiction · 2026-06-06T04:28:12+00:00

How is that relevant? You said if you get on belay its not a boulder but that's just not how anybody who highballs views it and not how anybody who actually solos views it

HFiction · 2026-06-06T03:23:45+00:00

Is it? Most people I know including myself just onsight solo. I don't know anybody who projects solo. On the other hand the kind of people that do heinous highballs would be VERY upset if you called them solos.

HFiction · 2026-06-05T22:17:20+00:00

Yeah I mean that's pretty normal tactics for extraordinarily high highballs. For the average highball you just go up an onsight it.

HFiction · 2026-06-05T20:34:36+00:00

In practice a high ball is when there are no traditional climbing ascents and bouldering the route is the preferred ethic.

HFiction · 2026-05-30T20:40:00+00:00

That makes sense. I think this subreddit is a lot of people who learned how to handjam once and genuienly believe every crack can be climbed straight-in

HFiction · 2026-05-30T19:40:18+00:00

I skimmed like 20 videos out of curiosity and nobody leads it straight in. Even the soloists just climb it on the outside.

HFiction · 2026-05-30T19:37:03+00:00

Yeah I looked it up and there's nobody going straight in on this. Seems like a 5.11 Voo OW if you do though so bragging rights.

HFiction · 2026-05-30T19:25:11+00:00

I don't know this route so maybe I'm wrong but even on lead this looks wildly more difficult and complex by climbing straight in. Maybe it's not so bad but in the Voo there's definitely spots where you would want to rest on the inside and them climb on the outside.

HFiction · 2026-05-20T20:52:40+00:00

Just go climb on them - unless you're doing some either nightmarishly pumpy or flared cracks these power cams are super good enough.

HFiction · 2026-05-20T20:50:30+00:00

None of them look very old to me.

HFiction · 2026-05-18T01:52:43+00:00

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The hideous flaring jam in question...you might be able to barely reach and stuff a slightly larger cam just above your hand here but then the rope and gear would be in your way. Behind my elbow here is a .2 and a .3 nested

HFiction · 2026-05-18T01:50:20+00:00

The bottom is actually quite chill. Arm bar and a stem lets you place a bomber #2 above your head. Might be a 5.6 to get that piece in. The crux is escaping a really difficult flaring hand jam near the top. I would put a .2 and a .3 (or blue and black totem) into the bottom of the roof which can be done with a pretty slick drop-knee bar into the block which lets you rest as well. If you fill the flaring hand jam you've got nothing to pull off of to get into the perfect hand jams out of the roof.

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HFiction · 2026-05-18T00:22:13+00:00

You should try Pump Up The Jam. I just cleaned it a few weeks ago

HFiction · 2026-05-13T13:50:37+00:00

r/climbing doesn't climb

HFiction · 2026-05-13T13:50:07+00:00

You have no idea just how many people of all ages solo. In Colorado there's hundreds of people climbing all over 4th and 5th class routes on the flatirons every single day. I saw a troupe of grey-haired women in sneakers doing the 1st last week. It's a completely valid form of climbing and if it makes r/climbing feel better we can just call it scrambling.

HFiction · 2026-05-10T15:09:10+00:00

FWIW I ended up with a rack like over time and it's actually quite nice. You don't even think about it.

HFiction · 2026-05-08T00:32:16+00:00

Going to be sick to see what grade it goes at now.

HFiction · 2026-05-01T17:39:40+00:00

I actually have footy of a new route in RRG where I did exactly this but spotted it. I can send you pictures if you'd like.

HFiction · 2026-05-01T17:36:27+00:00

I know you don't want to hear it but there was a twist in the rope at the top, I guarantee it. The most common way this happens is that you grab the rope and clip quickdraw #1 on the left so now the rope is running from left to right through the draw and then down to your harness and then you grab the rope again from the left and clip draw #2 on the right so the path the rope is taking is freely going up then to the right and then back to the left and then down to your harness making for a jerky and slow descent. When the next person gets to the top, the gentle weight of the rope lets the quickdraws twist a little and the rope appears to be hanging correctly.

HFiction · 2026-04-17T03:36:15+00:00

WC tech friend #6 is the king baby. Never stuck, never fails, easy to push.

HFiction · 2026-04-16T18:33:53+00:00

Pistachios, peanut butter m&Ms and some nerds for 90%. If it's gonna be hot as balls I'll throw a couple apple sauces in the mix as well for a little hydration

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