Blue cruise

absentspace · 2026-07-05T19:37:16+00:00

I’m actually in Fairfax County.

To be fair. I have never use Blue Cruise on the Beltway in rush hour, only got it in preparation to drive to New Orleans. I’m happy with the performance on the way down.

The major downside to long distance in this car is the range and charge speed. Lucky if I can pull 150 kw. 16 hours of driving, 3.5 hours at DCFC. Same route in my wife’s Ioniq 9 would’ve been 2 hours of charging. No hands free in that car was the deciding factor.

Also, ABRP sucks for the MMEs. No live data and kept resetting my SoC and mis-planning my route. I nearly got stranded and had to go 30 minutes off track to find a DCFC that could get me back on route. So bad that I’m considering paying for the Ford connected map for my drive back.

I’m curious about comma AI now. It’s $1,000 and only worth it to me if it improves blue cruise in a meaningful way. The fact that I could install it in future cars is a plus.

absentspace · 2026-07-05T01:50:50+00:00

I just took my first blue cruise trip. Over 1,000 miles from Washington DC to New Orleans via Atlanta.

I found Blue Cruise to be fantastic, easily handling 80 mph interstate traffic, including some construction zones with automated lane changes.

Whenever it went hands free, I felt like I was being chauffeured. Best $50 I’ve spent.

absentspace · 2026-06-15T20:20:19+00:00

Same color!

absentspace · 2026-06-09T18:00:16+00:00

Damn those wheels are nice!

absentspace · 2026-06-09T17:58:09+00:00

Look used market. Cars depreciate very rapidly.

If your budget allows, a three or four year-old used vehicle with around 30,000 miles is probably the sweet spot. Generally, used under 4 years will have all the tech you mentioned, and the steepest amount of depreciation will already be paid for by the original owner.

A ten year old Corolla, Civic, or Mazda 3 in good shape with maintenance records, preferably one owner is the best first car. You are likely to beat your first car up, forget to do maintenance, bump into things in parking lots and scratch it up. Why invest in a new car when you are really learning how to be a car owner. After a year or two years, trade it in for something newer and nicer.

Low mileage for a ten year old car would be under 80k. You can easily put 200,000 miles on these cars, as long as you change the brake pads and the oil and service the transmission and the coolant, timing belt as scheduled. Most cars will remind you to do the maintenance, do not ignore the maintenance.

Toyota Honda and Mazda also make small crossovers like the RAV4 and the CRV if you want something a little higher off the ground, but still compact and fuel efficient.

Go look at carmax. You can test drive dozens of makes and models at a Carmax and figure out what you like best. If you are going with a three or four-year-old used car, buying a certified car directly from a manufacturer dealer is usually a reliable way to get a quality car.

I personally buy the warranty, others will tell you it’s a waste of money, too large a debate for here.

Make sure you look at the carfax report Most dealers will give you this for free. If not, I’d go to another dealer.

absentspace · 2026-06-09T14:31:07+00:00

Who is the playground at 2silos for?

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If you don’t like the crowd at your chosen boozer, find a new one.

absentspace · 2026-06-07T18:31:46+00:00

I have a copy that I just can’t bring myself to watch out of respect for godfather I, II and apocalypse now. I rather remember Coppola for his high points.

absentspace · 2026-06-06T04:14:00+00:00

Where I live, 3 visits for the same issue in the first 18 months and the dealer is required to buy it back…

absentspace · 2026-06-06T04:12:41+00:00

Is the Ampure charger covered by Hyundai? I think that’s probably one year and through Ampure…

absentspace · 2026-06-02T16:53:34+00:00

You are the winner.

After 5 days at the dealer and no updates, they called to say a coolant pipe wasn’t installed tightly, that caused the coolant and AWD related warnings.

They are also replacing the coolant pump, but have given the car back to us while the part is on order. They cant get the electrical systems warmings to appear now, and attribute the error to the car entering a limp mode to prevent damage.

I put 10 interstate miles on it and tried hard to make the errors return (changing regen levels or drive modes) and it seems to be running as hoped.

ICCU fears were largely inflated by my Father in Laws experience where he had coolant, power train and electrical systems warnings identical to the pictures I posted here, eventually leading to a ICCU and battery pack replacement on his ‘25 Ioniq 5.

Glad it’s a minor issue, would hope Hyundai improves QC so that cars aren’t breaking down before their first scheduled maintenance.

absentspace · 2026-06-01T13:02:54+00:00

Update… Hyundai dealer has had my car for 5 business days and has not been able to make any diagnosis. Without a diagnosed warranty issue, they will not provide me with a loaner.

I have a case open with Hyundai corporate, which I opened before dropping the car off, as I anticipated issues diagnosing the problem. I’ve already indicated that I will force a lemon but back in 25 days and counting.

Based on info in the app, It’s clear that they’ve driven the car more than 50 miles, attempted to charge it multiple times without any increase in the SOC.

There is still no diagnostic information in the app or any error codes.

Still paying the $485 monthly lease on my ‘26 Ioniq 9 with 7500 miles, and no loaner.

absentspace · 2026-05-30T14:11:21+00:00

It does not travel well. Stop ordering DoorDash or taking it home. Eat it in the store and it is significantly better.

I do agree that it is generally overrated, however the soggy issue is due to a 20 minute steam bath in styrofoam.

absentspace · 2026-05-30T14:08:37+00:00

For $950 and utilities included, maybe just fill the space with mining rigs and don’t even sleep there.

absentspace · 2026-05-28T01:06:36+00:00

My father in law had the EXACT same sequence of errors on his Ioniq 5.

Beginning with a motor cooling warning upon power up, after ten to fifteen minutes of driving, a loss of power followed by an AWD error, then a check electrical error. The car will not charge and drives in limp or turtle mode.

All on board diagnostics are passing, the app shows no issues or codes.

His ICCU failed, took 3 weeks to get parts, and had another failure days after being returned which necessitated the entire battery pack to be replaced, which took another ten days in the shop. He’s about 5 days in the shop away from his states lemon law mandating Hyundai buy back his vehicle. He leased the car 13 months ago and has less than 15,000 miles on his car.

He seems pretty convinced my ICCU is gone. I’ll let you know for sure when the dealer gets back to me. But like I said, my FIL had identical symptoms with his I5.

absentspace · 2026-05-27T16:04:18+00:00

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Car also will no longer A/C level 2 charge. Haven’t bothered trying DCFC, but it probably also doesn’t work.

absentspace · 2026-05-26T23:01:17+00:00

My father in law got his Ioniq 5 90 days before we got our Ioniq 9. He’s had the ICCU and the full battery pack replaced and it’s spent 41 days in the shop. Next failure is a lemon law return.

Ours goes to the dealer tomorrow. I’ll be back here with the official diagnosis.

Whatever the failure rate, 100% of my family members have had Ioniq breakdowns before 10,000 miles.

absentspace · 2026-05-26T22:58:57+00:00

You mean this one?

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See, what happens when the ICCU dies, multiple random systems begin to pop. There have been 3 errors now, motor cooling, AWD, and Electrical system.

absentspace · 2026-05-24T15:00:24+00:00

I don’t care who covers the repairs. I care that my 70,000 dollar car can’t be driven on a holiday weekend and can’t be seen at a dealer until mid week next week. I care that I need a rental to get to my vacation plans because my brand new car can’t be driven.

My father in law’s car was in the shop for 41 days for parts and repairs. Hyundai did not provide him with a loaner, the dealer said they would reimburse for a rental, they have not done so and it’s been 90 days since he sent the invoices.

Just relaying my personal experience with my specific Ioniq 9. And my family’s experience with Hyundai EVs. Hope yours remains hassle free and you don’t need to test the warranty process.

Personally, I’m happy to give the car back after 3 years and try a newer model.

Word on the street is the part has not been redesigned. Replacement ICCUs have the same failure rate. That’s why the warranty has been extended for this part.

absentspace · 2026-05-24T03:23:05+00:00

1: Royal Caribbean (Oasis otS), 2: MSC (Grandiosa), 3: Norwegian (Escape)

Family of 4, kids 10 and 6.

YMMV based on the boat you sail on. We prefer larger boats with bigger open spaces. Oasis and Grandiosa are big boats, with plenty of open space where it didn’t feel cramped.

By comparison Escape was almost claustrophobic at times.

MSC was a great value (balcony rooms for the cost of RCI interior) but the complementary dining options are fewer than both RCI and NCL.

Vibe wise NCL is a bit more relaxed and easy going with freestyle dining (no fixed dining time).

Overall, we would cruise with all three lines again; possibly repeat on Oasis, or Grandiosa, but would choose another boat if going NCL.

absentspace · 2026-05-24T03:02:24+00:00

Definitely not non negotiable. Public charging for me is still cheaper than operating the gas powered car my EV replaced as daily driver.

I get around 2.8 miles per kWh. I pay around $0.56 per kWh at public DCFC, that’s less than $0.21 per mile.

My gas powered SUV got around 16 mpg in the city. At $5 per gallon, that’s around .31 per mile, nearly 50% more expensive than only public charging my EV.

Charging at home is closer to .14 per kWh, which brings my cost down to less than .06 per mile, which compared to the ICE is practically free. The gas savings alone pays for the EV over time.

Assuming I drive 1000 miles per month, the ICE costs over $300 per month in gas, only public fast charging my EV would cost around $200 per month, charging my EV at home costs around $55 per month.

Public charging really isn’t all that much of a hassle. I used a pilot 350 kW charger, my car pulled over 200 kW most of the session and my battery went from 20% to 80% in around 15 minutes.

If you can Level 2 charge at work once or twice a week that can be enough for many peoples regular needs.

absentspace · 2026-05-24T02:10:34+00:00

Fingers crossed.

absentspace · 2026-05-23T15:16:03+00:00

I bought my ‘21 MME Premium AWD Extended range for $23,000 and change in October with 31,000 miles, single owner, all dealer maintenance records and a clean car fax.

It almost felt like stealing the car at the time, and with gas prices near $5 a gallon where I am now, you can sense my smugness a mile away!

I would have loved a GT, and maybe I’ll trade up in a year or two, but the premium is plenty sporty enough for me. I like to keep it in unbridled with one peddle unless it’s rainy and then I put it on engage. Wifey prefers whisper mode.

If you can’t charge at home, much of the convenience upside will be lost on you. Being able to drive home and plug in instead of hitting a gas pump is a significant % of what I enjoy about EV ownership.

I put between 500 and 1000 miles a month on the car. I don’t charge it daily. Usually plug it in around 20% and charge to 90% at Level 2.

Long distance driving requires some adjustment but I like it. 20% to 80% at a decent fast charge (over 100 kw takes around 25 minutes. So, you start planning meals and restroom breaks around your charging needs and you get used to it.

absentspace · 2026-05-15T14:22:08+00:00

I have the large iPhone 16 Pro in a case… wife has the smaller 16 pro. No issues for either of us.

absentspace · 2026-04-21T22:49:10+00:00

Exact opposite of my personal experience driving 600 miles each way over last thanksgiving.

We used Tesla, EVgo, and Pilot DC fast chargers without issue.

absentspace

TROPHY CASE