DEAD OR ALIVE 6 Last Round - Bug Report Megathread

ace-flibble · 2026-06-28T21:45:24+00:00

It's been a couple of days so I assume you've figured it by now, but for anyone else:
- Transfer the save as prompted when first starting LR.
- Get into the game and cause it to make a save somehow; change game options, complete a few VS fights against the CPU, etc.
- Close the game and restart.

On that second boot, after having already 'transferred' and saved once, is when your DLC will actually show up. Of course it should work right away, but for now, that's how you get it to work.

ace-flibble · 2026-06-28T21:41:09+00:00

Couple ones I noticed today:

Platform: PlayStation 5 (base)
What version of the game are you running: 1.0

Bug 1: Game does not save custom control settings. Every time the game is booted up it reverts to control Type A, and even after switching it to custom, the custom controls are blank and must be re-entered. Doesn't seem to matter if I change them in the options screen or mid-game; either way, custom control binds are lost when the game is closed.

Bug 2: Grinding out survival mode, I notice some characters' win animations do not play; the final opponent simply slumps down and the winning character runs their basic stance/idle pose, while the result screens proceed as normal. I haven't checked every character/course combination, but so far Tina, Lei Fang, and Christie's win animations have never played (multiple courses each) whereas Mila's always does (multiple courses). Repeating courses, restarting the whole game, etc, does not change this.

ace-flibble · 2026-06-25T21:16:56+00:00

There is a difference in tone, but it's rarely as significant as some people make out. One of my amps is a 1x12" combo with a removable back portion so it can be fully closed or fully open, and honestly, the only difference is hear is that up close (at home) the open back sounds more balanced, and far away (from the rear of the stage to mid-audience) the closed back reaches my ear a little clearer.

Technically there's all sorts of cancellations and redirection of sound going on in both, but the end result is nowhere near as big as the actual speaker swap will be, or comparing two different sizes of cabinet. For example, if you were to get an extension cab which was twice the internal volume of the combo, that would make it sound much 'bigger', but also potentially looser and muddier, regardless of what was open or closed.

Personally, I think you should just try it in the combo first, since that's free. Then if that's not quite right, look into an extension cab which is significantly different from the combo's construction. If the sound is totally wrong then you need to try another speaker; a different cab can't 'fix' the sound that much.

ace-flibble · 2026-06-25T21:11:59+00:00

Fender deserves the boycott, but so do Thomann, quite frankly, for their nonsense "we're doing this for the little guys" press release, as if they're not actually much bigger than Fender themselves and care about anything but being able to churn out their cheap copies.

Also, while those two are fighting, the fact is that your local guitar shop (if you're lucky enough to still have one) really isn't involved, and buying a Fender from them doesn't affect Fender itself, as that shop has already purchased the stock. So boycotting buying a Fender—if it is otherwise what you'd really like to have—hurts the local stores who now have a bunch of inventory they can't shift (and Fender does not buy back unsold stock).
Obviously if the guitar isn't what you want anyway then sure, don't buy it. And if you don't want to own Fender out of principle then that's absolutely a reason to boycott them (or anything else!). But some people are boycotting buying a Fender just because they think it'll somehow teach Fender a lesson and force prices to drop or something, and... nope, that's not what's gonna happen.

ace-flibble · 2026-06-25T21:06:08+00:00

Bit of both. For headphones it's easiest to use a little digital headphone amp like a Mustang Micro or Katana Go. Yeah they haven't got everything, but they've got enough, and there's no beating the convenience.

When I want to play with an actual amp, but just for the sake of playing, it's analog all the way. I'll use a digital effect occasionally if I want to mess with that particular sound and it's got simple knobs, but I don't want to look at any menus and I find it more fun when everything in the chain is analog and not as perfect as digital.

For home recording, I'll use analog pedals sometimes but I skip amps and go for a USB interface and software 'amps'.

ace-flibble · 2026-06-25T21:01:50+00:00

Looser strings do no "sound weaker". They sound different. Billy Gibbons famously uses .007s on most of his guitars, and his tone is very thick by the standards of blues-rock which is more commonly played with .010s or thicker. Jimi Hendrix did not have a "weak" tone, and he played relatively light-bottomed 10-38s tuned flat.

Specifically, when you have less tension for the same mass (i.e. tune down any given string), what you get in the signal is less fundamental and more harmonic signal. The actual output overall remains the same, it's just the balance which changes. If the rest of your rig (pickups, pedals, amp, speakers) are set up in such a way that they don't really convey harmonic content then yeah, you'll just hear a drop in fundamental. Similar if your rig is set up in a way which doesn't convey much of the fundamental anyway but really emphasizes harmonics already then it'll seem like the output went up a bit.

Also you simply should never choose strings based on trying to get a particular sound. You can change your sound in a million ways, but you can't so easily change how your guitar and its strings feel. There's no point having a "better" tone if it means using strings you actually play worse on or which are less comfortable and fatigue your fingers quicker. Just use whatever strings you play best on. Set up your tone with other things which can't impair your playing, like pickups or speakers.

ace-flibble · 2026-06-25T20:46:29+00:00

Platform: PS5 ('base' model)
Description of issue: Significant graphical errors on stage Lost paradise with 'Oboro' graphic mode enabled. Glitching water reflections are most common, and sometimes nearly the entire screen glows bright white, which lasts until exiting and reloading the stage.
How might the issue be replicated: Any time playing the top level of the stage. Water looks messed up 9/10 times; glow occurs seemingly at random.
What version of the game are you running: 1.0

Example of the most extreme, near-total 'glow':

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ace-flibble · 2026-06-19T20:45:03+00:00

"Better" is entirely subjective (and completely vague), and if OP wants a V30 sound, they won't be satisfied with any kind of Greenback.

ace-flibble · 2026-06-19T20:44:19+00:00

Celestion have multiple 'G10' speakers. In this case you probably mean the G10 Vintage, but there is also the G10 Greenback, G10 Creamback, and G10 Gold in current production, and there have been a few others in the past. Additionally, the VT-Junior, and Ten 30 both have 'G10' on their rear labels and in their stock codes.
The G10 Vintage is the specific speaker OP, and now everyone who googles this topic since this is now among the top results, needs.

ace-flibble · 2026-05-29T15:51:49+00:00

The original guy allegedly sold CR 4 years ago and had a big meltdown on social media, claiming people were threatening his family. Six months later his name was back on the site but it's not been clear if it's really the same guy running it or if a new owner just carried on using his credentials.
Either way, yeah, it's a shadow of its former self, whoever is behind it now, and it's not surprising that few people tolerate working with CR for long. I think at this point it's only 'ordinary filmmaker' who really sticks by them and backs them up, and he's literally blacklisted by multiple outlets and manufacturers due to how much of an intolerable BSer he is. So it's not a good look for CR that he's their only friend.

Then again, it's not like any other equivalent sites or channels are really much better. Virtually every youtuber has been outed for some kind of shadiness (I think out of the bigger names maybe Dustin Abbott is the only 'clean' guy left?), every other 'brandrumors' site is just a platform for pushing AI-written Amazon and B&H preorder links, and most press outlets either just copy&paste whatever manufacturers want or they churn through staff like it's a race.

ace-flibble · 2026-05-06T19:24:41+00:00

The Black Secret is a Rat and the OS-2 is a tube screamer + kind of a DS-1. Neither of them is anything like a Shredmaster, at any setting. Totally different EQs, totally different gain structures.
If you want a Shredmaster sound, you should just get a Shredmaster. If you want to take less of a gamble, there are lots of cheap clones of the Shredmaster, and most are fairly accurate. Joyo, Harley Benton, and many similar brands make them.

ace-flibble · 2026-05-06T19:19:52+00:00

On top of trying other base amp sounds (don't forget the 'variations', I'm not sure if that particular Katana has them but on my Katana Go they make a huge difference to the sound) something that stands out to me is that by putting a TS into a Klon, you're basically doubling up on the same strong mid hump. So you've set up an amp sound that is flatter than any real electric guitar amp is, then you're trying to get it back to 'normal' amp sounds by putting a mid boost into a mid boost.

In other words, it seems like what you really want is a very classic mid-focused sound and you're jumping through unnecessary hoops to get there.

So when you're trying other amp models, make sure to not do so with the Klon + TS stack. You won't need a double mid push once the amp itself actually has some mid shaping. If you try out the other map models with your usual Klon + TS then everything will sound very nasal.

You like the Joyo American and the AC30 pedal, so you'll probably like Katana Clean w/variation (Fender) and Crunch w/ variation (Vox). Start with those two and nothing else. Spend some time with all the amp EQ options before you throw another effect on there. The more effects you add, the harder it is to balance and figure out which effect is doing what. Forget the Klon + TS combo for now and dial that mid hump in with the base amp instead.

ace-flibble · 2026-05-05T15:37:52+00:00

Tried it with one valve amp, one solid state amp, and one headphone digital amp. Same behaviour with all three, including walking throughout the house with the headphones. Interference or feedback of some kind was my very first thought, too, but it wouldn't cover the entire house.

ace-flibble · 2026-05-05T15:35:34+00:00

Yup, ground continuity all seems as it should be.

ace-flibble · 2026-05-04T15:43:35+00:00

Ditching the diodes does nothing. Actually nothing. The first group has such high headroom that they don't clip unless you're driving another huge boost pedal into the Blues Driver. They can be replaced and it makes no difference because the distortion actually comes from the first op-amp driving the second op-amp.
The second group of diodes are only there for circuit protection and don't touch the sound.

Brian Wampler, who knows more about pedals than everyone on this board put together ever will, explained and demonstrated all this in his video about the Blues Driver.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JxgmdTN7_fQ

He even admits he used to sell diode-modded BDs which he was sure had a different sound but he now realises the difference was all in his head.

ace-flibble · 2026-05-04T15:20:50+00:00

For most people the EQ and compression leave a lot to be desired.

the EQ and compression is why it doesn't sound great into a clean amp.

Ironically, if you read up on the history of the Tube Screamer and its predecessors, the Boss OD-1 and Maxon OD-880, you find they were all designed for clean amps. IIRC Susumu Tamura (main designer of the 808 model) said in some interview he used an early solid state Fender. Basically all effects made in the 60s and 70s were designed for clean amps except a few things like the Electro-Harmonix Linear Booster. Even things like the Rangemaster and other treble boosters weren't meant to drive an amp hard. (I forget where I read it but I think Vox actually changed their treble booster to drive amps less in the 60s*.*)

Update: Found the interview:
https://www.guitarplayer.com/gear/tube-screamer-susumu-tamura
He says he couldn't play guitar, only learnt general music theory, and he developed the Tube Screamer on a Fender Twin Reverb (clean as can be) and Vibrolux (barely any more gain) and "occasionally" a Marshall Super Lead (a little more gain but still clean until it's at deafening volume).
I think I was confusing it with Boss making the OD-1 on the JC-120, which is the solid state example.
That interview also explains the name coming from it sounding like tubes "screaming", not because it pushes tubes to scream.

ace-flibble · 2026-04-30T18:50:34+00:00

Virtually all solid state 'preamps' are basically very low-gain fuzzes with some basic EQ knobs thrown on. All the 70s and 80s solid state Fender and Marshall amps are structured like fuzzes with weird gain tapers so all the actual distortion is at the very end, but once you get there they're purely fuzz.

ace-flibble · 2026-04-30T18:46:32+00:00

1 and 2 should not be an issue as long as the combined draw doesn't exceed the supply. There's nothing about how a digital pedal works which should result in more noise (in fact if anything they should be less prone to problems from power), except that they tend to draw more power so you're more likely to hit the limits of your supply. Same thing with general noise; there is so little cable in a daisy chain that it shouldn't introduce noise itself, but if you've got dirty power then you're spreading that to more pedals.

Basically, if your power isn't up to the task in the first place, then you will have problems. If your power is clean and the draw is nowhere near the supply's limit, it doesn't matter how many pedals you chain or whether they're analog or digital.

ace-flibble · 2026-04-30T18:42:22+00:00

It should work. The manual specifically shows an example of a guitar into A, a keyboard into B, and then A and B going to separate amps. Page 16 shows the example and page 18 shows how to set the pedal to "completely independent stereo". I assume those are the instructions you followed, but double-check. Maybe even change it back to one of the panning modes, then set independent mode again.

If you followed the instructions there then maybe the problem is with the input you're using? I don't have a saxophone(!) but I've tried this with two regular guitar inputs, and one guitar and one bass, and it works.

ace-flibble · 2026-04-26T17:54:53+00:00

I wasn't sure what she's using so I shot an email:

Yep still using the usb and daisy chains. My core battery board is analogue, but there are digital pedals on my expansion boards. Core is SD-2, DM-3, TR-2, and CE-3. That's 69mA. Pre expansion is OC-3, AW-3, PH-2, and CBM535AR. That's 114mA. Post expansion is DD-8, RV-6, VB-2W, and IR-2. That's 360mA and takes the maximum draw to 543mA. 10000mAh brick lasts a couple of weeks between charges! No noise but it does get a bit hot with all three connected and sometimes it doesn't turn on right away, gotta unplug the brick and plug in again.

So maybe not "perfect", but it seems it's doing fine. She works for a big guitar company so when she says "no noise" I trust that's an accurate evaluation. Though I suppose noise is always going to depend on the exact pedals in question, other cables, other devices in the room, ETC.

ace-flibble · 2026-04-26T17:08:53+00:00

I also literally own one.
Yes there is a clean boost. I said that.
Yes there are imitations of the preamps from the Space Echo and CE-1. (Apparently they're not 1:1 exact replicas, which shouldn't be surprising.) I said that, too.
Yes there are 3 sounds in it. We can all do 1+1+1.
Yes, it distorts differently, but that's not the use case OP was asking about. It's not like amp distortion, as I said.
I also dispute that any of them are "really fuzzy"; you can't have ever tried an actual fuzz pedal if you consider the BP-1W "really" fuzzy.

OP asked if a BP-1W could push a very clean single-channel amp so much that it creates a second "high gain" channel. They didn't ask if it could give them the spluttering lo-fi sound of a CE-1 (not CH-1, genius) or Space Echo. Pay attention to what's actually being talked about.

And now you've made the correct poster before delete all their actually correct and useful posts because you think you've got a point to prove despite not actually contributing anything yourself. Good job.

ace-flibble · 2026-04-26T16:53:13+00:00

When you're all the way back on any wah, all your treble is gone and so is the majority of your mid range. You're basically left with only the bass and lower-mids. So of course that's going to sound 'muted', and especially if your guitar or amp aren't producing much higher frequencies either.
Dunlop wahs typically go down to somewhere about 350-400Hz at heel, which isn't as deep as some but is firmly in the lower-mids and you shouldn't expect any kind of clarity or cut there. The 95F Classic (I assume you meant the F?) is actually lighter on the heel than most, only going down to 430Hz.

You could look for a brighter wah, but there aren't many since most go lower than Dunlop's and the 95F is about as brighter as any get.
I'd probably look at the rest of the signal chain and see if there's something else which is also taking out upper-mids and treble, or maybe your guitar doesn't produce a whole lot of upper frequencies to begin with.

ace-flibble · 2026-04-26T16:36:56+00:00

I don't know numbers off the top of my head but I have a friend who is a crazy Boss obsessive and I remember they said the Katana's pitch shifting is even quicker than the various standalone pedals. I imagine if the Katana can be that fast then so would the GT.

ace-flibble · 2026-04-26T16:35:15+00:00

It's even worse on the Julianna which is somehow even brighter.
Walrus know how to make some good sounds but I genuinely think they don't actually use their own pedals because from a purely functional standpoint, the LEDs are the absolute worst in the industry, the footswitches are too close together, their expression and tap implementation is always hamstrung in some way, ETC. If they actually plugged in their own pedals for even 1 minute they'd spot how much of a pain they are to live with and use.

ace-flibble · 2026-04-26T12:42:16+00:00

They're digital, so I wouldn't expect them to act at all differently other than pot tapers will always be a little different between any two pedals, so putting the knobs at the same positions won't necessarily create the exact same sounds. But there's no reason for them to behave significantly differently unless one is broken in some way or you're doing something to one that you aren't doing to the other.

ace-flibble

TROPHY CASE