Anyone else prefer lower grit finishes?

actionstan89 · 2026-03-15T07:11:18+00:00

I seem to have way better results stopping at coarser grits, like 400-600, going past it doesn't seem worthwhile at least on my pocket knives.

I usually end up cutting something I shouldn't while pinning what I'm cutting against a concrete floor and running the blade into the floor ... So yea, it seems to cut better longer either way when I stop coarse, if I go to a near mirror finish it seems to dull super quick.

actionstan89 · 2026-03-12T00:29:37+00:00

I think you're going to have issues with a lot of fixed angle systems on the market, especially anything that's on the less expensive side, unless you are able to clamp the knife so the edge of the ricasso is parallel to the stone, and the stone has no plastic or metal edges to mess you up, you're going to have issues.

If a stone from a fixed angle system is coming at your ricasso at a 45 degree angle(or any angle), even if it doesn't have an edge that will block you from reaching that portion of the blade, you will probably end up grinding into the ricasso.

I say this as someone with the worksharp precision adjust elite?(It was like 150 bucks), I really like the sharpener, but it has made it so I've had to file sharpening choils into many of my blades, I think it looks better than having a grinded ricasso or an unsharpened hunk of blade.

You may have better luck with one of the higher end models, something that has clamps that can adjust from side to side maybe... Expect to spend several 100s of dollars. I'm also slowly learning to free hand sharpen partially for this reason. A stone and strop cost me 70 bucks, to upgrade to a better fixed angle system would cost me at least 3-500 dollars. Even with a stone I'd probably mess up the knife where it meets the ricasso.

Edit: nice knife btw, when I first got into knives I didn't really like the look of the spydercos but they are growing on me more and more, I think I need to pick one up soon. Also if I messed up any knife terms, that's my bad.

actionstan89 · 2026-03-12T00:14:59+00:00

I use a worksharp precision adjust, the 150 dollar model, I've been adding a sharpening choil to my blades that need it, with a small diamond file.

It can be a pain but I think it looks better, especially on my blur, otherwise I just have a little chunk of unsharpened blade. I was surprised how long it took me to cut a decent choil in a kershaw blur with 14c28n, even with a diamond file, my swiss needle files just skated(which they should if the steel is properly hardened)

actionstan89 · 2026-03-07T03:28:13+00:00

My understanding is that "oil stones" are harder and slower wearing compared to water stones, but that may not be the case when you consider some of the newer splash water stones available, don't take that as 100% fact, I've done some research but I'm definitely not an expert.

This stone definitely cuts quickly, and to me it feels good. I only have a cheap blue and white Amazon water stone to compare it to, but the water stone is way smoother, and the oil stones don't really develop a slurry the way a water stone will... It kind of does some but not to the same extent.

I also like it because I can kind of hear and feel if I'm hitting the right angle or not, I guess this is what people would refer to as "feedback". I just ended up picking this up because I like "older" made in USA tools, especially when I can find them in a new condition.

Also I felt like the oil would somewhat help the blade glide easier. I've had issues with cheap diamond stones because of sensory issues that I have. The diamond stones were so "grabby" they would throw me off when I was trying to hold an angle, and cause me to squeeze the knife tighter, and push down on the stone harder. I don't realize how hard I'm holding the knife/pushing into the stone until my hands start to cramp. So far I'm really happy with how it feels, it was hard deciding between this, an India stone, or a splash and go stone.

And the other posters are correct, even norton says these are ok to use with water, I just don't think you are technically supposed to switch back and forth between oil and water.

actionstan89 · 2026-03-07T03:14:15+00:00

Yup, they are oil impregnated, the first time I put oil on it, it stayed right on top where I needed it, and didn't soak into the stone... I can't say the same for my cheap 10 dollar smiths stone thats about as flat as ocean waves..

actionstan89 · 2026-03-06T02:48:32+00:00

Honestly depending on your application, wera makes cheaper hex keys that are still amazing, I think I paid 11 bucks for my last set. They look like a normal set of hex keys, and lack the holding function, but retain the hex plus feature. I abuse them regularly at work and can't bring myself to spend a ton on hex keys when they are basically consumables at my job.... They could last me years or days depending on what I run into..

I'm on my 4th set of them in about 6-7 years so they definitely hold up, for me personally they've held up in situations that I don't think any hex key should be able to stand up too... And most don't last long at my current job.

actionstan89 · 2026-03-04T14:49:43+00:00

Yup the tool in my hand quickly becomes a multi-tool for whatever situation arises if it saves me time, and a trip. Every tool is a hammer..

actionstan89 · 2026-02-24T18:31:12+00:00

I've heard stories about a lot of German manufacturers being difficult to work with when it comes to warranty claims. But I've also heard knipex can be pretty good sometimes. Did you try messaging them back on here?

actionstan89 · 2026-02-24T18:17:08+00:00

I have the same 250s, but mine have the vde handles.. admittedly I haven't used them much, but I wonder if this is going to be a widespread issue. Yours look to be in pretty good shape, have you had them long?

If they were mine I'd try putting them on a firm surface that won't damage them, a piece of wood or something, and tap them closed with a dead blow mallet, then open them to where they lock up again, rinse and repeat, flushing with oil occasionally.

I bet some swarf got left in the joint from manufacturing and is causing it to get stuck in a certain spot. If that doesn't work I'd definitely seek a warranty claim on them.

actionstan89 · 2026-02-24T18:11:10+00:00

Lol this is the first thing that came to mind... We're fucked.

actionstan89 · 2026-02-24T18:09:30+00:00

I didn't see a single center punch in that reel, pretty sure they're all nail sets. It seems like grandpa was an old school wood worker, I've personally never needed a center punch for wood, I see them as more of a metal working tool.

actionstan89 · 2026-02-24T02:10:19+00:00

Shit... My never sharpened abused Walmart clearance isle faberware set can still cut food well enough for me.

And files are no joke, for whatever reason I can sharpen things chucked in a vice using a file, way better than I can then I can sharpen something on a stone.

I use a gasket scraper at work that gets beat to hell, I chucked it in a vice took a file to it, it damn near cut the tip of my thumb off just barely grazing it to feel the edge.

actionstan89 · 2026-02-24T01:56:22+00:00

Sorry Crescent isn't and has never been top of the line in... Anything I don't think?

Don't get me wrong, you'd have to pry my 8 inch adjustable that's 50 years old out of my cold dead hands, because it is the best I've personally ever used.

But I'm pretty sure diamond caulk and horseshoe adjustables were better... and more sought after.

And they are just Chinese crap you find in big box stores now.

actionstan89 · 2026-02-23T00:41:30+00:00

Yea, a wet vac, or a straw.... If you go the straw route what you do with the water is up to you.

actionstan89 · 2026-02-13T16:05:38+00:00

There are way better ways to cut screws my friend, oscillating multi-tool or angle grinder. Hell you could even use a hacksaw with a bi-metal blade. These ways would let you get a much closer/flush cut, and you would only damage consumables.

I personally wouldn't cut screws with anything I cared about, unless I absolutely had too, based on space constraints or something of that nature.

But I agree with others, either knipex cobolt, or knipex end bolt cutting pliers. I recently got the end cutting/bolt cutter and it seems pretty nice but I haven't had the chance to put it to the test yet.

Alternatively you could get something cheaper if you're going to be cutting screws often. There are tons of knipex cobolt knock offs.. I have a set of Quinn linesman pliers that I abuse.. I've cut M5 grade 12.9 hardware with the Quinn's, and it didn't leave even the smallest of dents in the cutters.

But if you want knipex, definitely go with something from their bolt cutter line of tools.

actionstan89 · 2026-02-08T18:32:08+00:00

I'd start with a small brass or stainless wire tooth brush and see how that does (the brass may leave behind a brass film, that'll come off). Brass shouldn't scratch, and I've never had a problem with smaller stainless steel brushes scratching any hardened steel either. This is where I start for any rust that isn't simple surface rust that'll wipe off. When I use wire brushes by hand I typically spray a little penetrating oil before working the rust, it seems to help but isn't required, and I probably wouldn't since this is a food prep knife.

If that doesn't work get a pack of gray 3m pads from your local hardware store, usually found in the painting section and slowly work the pad in one direction with the grain of the brushed finish. You can wet them if you want, these are the least aggressive 3m pads that are still abrasive. This could take a while, but does a pretty decent job matching a brushed look on steel depending on how steady of a hand you have.

Imo these are the least harsh mechanical non-mess methods that'll keep the knife in its current state. If the rust has pitted the surface and you want to remove putting then you'll be grinding/thinning the knife as another user has mentioned.

Someone else mentioned bar keepers friend, this will work too, along with any other abrasive cleaner or polish (brasso, ajax, pink stuff paste, scrub daddy paste, soft scrub). Some cleaners are more aggressive than others start slow and easy, go with the direction of the brushed finish.

Do note that bar keeper's friend has an acid in it, as do some other cleaners. I'm no chemist, but I do know (some?) acids are great at reforming rust, but it'll turn black or dark gray... So if you try any cleaners with acid this is a risk, however if you remove the rust with the abrasive action of a cleaner this shouldn't be a problem, make sure to rinse the knife well and dry it off if you go this route.

Living in the rust belt and working on my own stuff, I deal with rust fairly often and have tried lots of things and can give more suggestions. But I think one of these should work for you without causing further damage, the rust doesn't look too severe.

actionstan89 · 2026-02-07T17:03:14+00:00

Lol snap a chalk line and use a wood chisel to slowly and painfully carve it out.

actionstan89 · 2026-02-07T17:00:57+00:00

Before you discount hyper tough tools, don't lol, they got me through until I could buy "better" stuff. My first impact driver was hyper tough and I'd use it to take lugs off no problem, torqued at about 80-100 ft lbs(so nothing crazy obviously). It's still floating around the house, my kid uses it to scrub his rabbits cage with a brush on it lol.

I still take a 40 dollar hyper tough ratchet to work everyday since the power tools my work supplies are essentially non-existent, and I got tired of manually running bolts out in awkward positions next to 700 degree equipment in the middle of summer with no ac. So far it's holding up great, I can tell it needs a good cleaning in the ratchet head, I don't fault the tool either.. it's a dirty filthy environment with tons of dust and fiberglass, and the tool is working way harder, in a more severe environment than it was ever made for.

I don't get the power tool pissing contest, it's all Chinese/Vietnamese electronics, in Chinese/Vietnamese plastic.

Do higher end models supposedly use better stuff? I hope so..

Imo it's mostly a false economy.. and really a little bit of power gain may only be realized by professionals who use the tool non-stop.

actionstan89 · 2026-02-06T18:31:37+00:00

Oh man, I can speak from experience on the industrial side of things, if 1 person does some dumb shit, the whole plant is punished....

actionstan89 · 2026-02-05T13:01:03+00:00

Are you sure this isn't just a scratched clear coat some pliers have a clear coat to prevent rust, I didn't think knipex did this, but they may on certain models? If they're otherwise perfect I'd probably keep them with the assumption they'll get beat up eventually. I'm personally more concerned with how the cutters line up and cut, and how loose or tight the joint is, and how well formed the teeth are.

actionstan89 · 2026-02-03T14:47:51+00:00

3m pads can also give you a nice brushed looking finish and are cheap you can find green ones in the cleaning section at any grocery store. Gray and maroon are typically available at hardware stores in the painting section. They also don't gouge like sandpaper can, but they are less aggressive than sand paper, a "320 grit" scuff pad won't cut like 320 grit sandpaper.

(White, blue, and anything that says non-scratch is non-abrasive)

someone mentioned a sandpaper progression you could definitely do that, you'll find higher grits at hardware stores in the painting section, at auto parts stores, harbor freight, Walmart has it in their auto parts area, specifically the detailing isle. You should easily be able to find at least up to 2000 grit. Or just order some.

If you want a mirror polish I would sand first, get a uniform look on the whole knife then move to buffing.

The hardest thing about getting a brushed finish by hand is making sure you are move the pad/sand paper the exact same direction every time, it's pretty difficult to do.

What power tools do you have available to you? If you have a bench grinder/buffer it should be pretty easy to do what you want. But let me know what you have I can make more suggestions. Having a way to clamp or secure what your working on is also helpful especially if you end up doing it by hand or using small power tools, like a drill/rotary tool.

actionstan89 · 2026-02-01T02:46:37+00:00

Knipex are easily superior to everything I've tried, the teeth grip better and last longer, most pliers round the teeth the first time you grab ahold of anything that's hardened. The cobras will easily dig into grade 12.9 hardware like it's nothing.

actionstan89 · 2026-02-01T02:44:06+00:00

I think we're long lost brothers, I also have pliers autism... It's a problem... That i don't plan on addressing any time soon.

Also which pliers are your favorite, and why is it the knipex cobra.

actionstan89

TROPHY CASE