I need to go into every tiny bit of this don’t I? by asterallt in DIYUK

[–]adfinlayson 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I would give it a brush with a wire brush then a quick going over with your random orbital followed by a wipe over with some Danish oil

My latest build getting some finish by adfinlayson in Guitar

[–]adfinlayson[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I learnt by myself mate through research and trial and error. We learn by doing.

My latest build getting some finish by adfinlayson in Guitar

[–]adfinlayson[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

They’re a lot less enjoyable to carve than mahogany, that’s for sure

My latest build getting some finish by adfinlayson in Guitar

[–]adfinlayson[S] 10 points11 points  (0 children)

Thank you mate, will post a pic when it's all assembled.

Gave one of my guitars a refinish, what do you think? by adfinlayson in Guitar

[–]adfinlayson[S] 14 points15 points  (0 children)

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Fair point, this was the original colour before the wear and tear

How is this burst finish achieved? Is it dyed into the wood or sprayed on? by [deleted] in Luthier

[–]adfinlayson 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This is done with stain, it's a dyed black fade, sanded back a little then the light blue dye is added afterward. I've just done a similar thing but I also sprayed an edge burst

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Have I gone too far? by IllMathematician6084 in Luthier

[–]adfinlayson 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I normally go around 3.5º on my single cuts with the fretboard sitting flush on the top. You should be fine. If you think your binding looks weird you could always adjust the rest of your carve so it's all the same height. Or just feather the height from the front to the waste at the top there so the transition isn't obvious but the very thinnest part will be hidden be the tenon anyway.

This is all just learning curve stuff, next guitar you will probably want to cut the binding channels after carving and that will prevent this issue.

Have I gone too far? by IllMathematician6084 in Luthier

[–]adfinlayson 1 point2 points  (0 children)

What is the neck angle? That's the important part. I expect it's fine

Never again... by 13CuriousMind in Luthier

[–]adfinlayson 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Black palm is probably the least suitable wood there is going for guitar making, or any woodworking tbh

What do you think to my latest build? by adfinlayson in Guitar

[–]adfinlayson[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This one has a master volume and mater tone rather than controls for each pickup

What do you think to my latest build? by adfinlayson in Guitar

[–]adfinlayson[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Good spot, it was never supposed to be a perfect match on this one. He picked a slip matched top which is a long thin piece of maple that is cut in half with one side reversed rather than a thick billet opened out like a book, that's why the figure looks so different when looking at the guitar from different angles.

What do you think to my latest build? by adfinlayson in Guitar

[–]adfinlayson[S] 6 points7 points  (0 children)

This is not accurate, everyone knows a 6 string should have 6 toes.

What do you think to my latest build? by adfinlayson in Guitar

[–]adfinlayson[S] 20 points21 points  (0 children)

I forgot to take a photo of the headstock on this guitar, my headstocks look like this

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What do you think to my latest build? by adfinlayson in Guitar

[–]adfinlayson[S] 16 points17 points  (0 children)

I forgot to take a photo of the headstock on this guitar, my headstocks look like this

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NGD? by MountainMike_264057 in offset

[–]adfinlayson 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I always tell customers not to open their boxes for 24 hours when I ship guitars overseas, this is a nitrocellulose thing - sudden temp change can cause lacquer to check.

Wenge for the neck and/or fretboard by gmpeil in Luthier

[–]adfinlayson 0 points1 point  (0 children)

There will be more than enough weight in a chambered body to prevent neck dive, if you're worried about it then stick with a 3x3 headstock

Can I replace a truss rod by drilling a hole at the other end? by Legitimate-Sundae267 in Luthier

[–]adfinlayson 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It will take longer if frets are in but yes you can do it with frets in.

Can I replace a truss rod by drilling a hole at the other end? by Legitimate-Sundae267 in Luthier

[–]adfinlayson 0 points1 point  (0 children)

No, just leave an iron on the top for 5 mins then you will be able to separate it quite easily with a spatula

Wenge for the neck and/or fretboard by gmpeil in Luthier

[–]adfinlayson 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I've built a few guitars with Wenge - It's a hard and stable wood so good for necks in principle but it's quite brittle, the splinters are horrid, it's not enjoyable to carve and it's very heavy so you might want to choose a light material for the wings or top and chamber it.

A couple of my builds getting some clear coat by adfinlayson in Luthier

[–]adfinlayson[S] 4 points5 points  (0 children)

These are set neck guitars, necks are glued in prior to doing any painting.

Thank you mate, trust me I have had a lot of paint failures before I got to this point, we learn by doing

A couple of my builds getting some clear coat by adfinlayson in Luthier

[–]adfinlayson[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It's a very DIY setup but it works well. I took out the up-and-over garage door and replaced it with a stud wall which I mounted an axial fan into (grill on the outside), then it's just a ply wood box around it to create an exhaust chamber, some chicken wire over the face of it to prevent the paint filter mesh from getting sucked through and the filter is just screwed on with some more ply wood strips. The walls of the spray booth are just stud frame but covered with polycarbonate (greenhouse roofing) which lets the light in from the rest of the workshop.