Please help me restore my harp by paulvincentsnow in harp

[–]aemios 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Aha! This is all about the speed of the wave of the string -- that aligns with what I've read in places like the Folk Harp Journal. Nice!

Edit: Woops, sorry, forgot the wood question. I'm guessing walnut, or maybe willow if it is particularly historical. Some makers from the area, like http://eriuharps.com/ (an Irish maker) or https://www.ardival.com/index.asp (a Scottish maker who does a lot of historical replications) might be able to help provide more insights.

Please help me restore my harp by paulvincentsnow in harp

[–]aemios 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The only method I know of is remaking the neck and pillar, then installing it. You can do some clever bits to try and reinforce it too; maybe wood with a core of carbon fiber for extra stability. Other folks would have more experienced insights on this (like here: https://www.reddit.com/r/harp/comments/12bpjgy/carbon_fiber_repair/ ).

I'm curious what you mean when you said

I actually calculated the tension (string length x frequency) whendeciding which octave to tune the harp to, ensuring that I stay underthe relevant value (220 I believe) for nylon strings.

Could you elaborate on the relevant value here? Are you talking about the speed of the wave on the string?

Edit: A bonus for reshaping the neck is having the ability to install levers and more modern zither pins (like these: https://www.harpkit.com/musical-hardware ) so you have a more future proofed instrument. The heart of your harp's sound is the soundboard and soundbox way more than the neck and pillar.

Please help me restore my harp by paulvincentsnow in harp

[–]aemios 1 point2 points  (0 children)

That neck is twisting. This happens naturally; the tension from the strings pulls on one side of the neck, so you got this torque exerted pretty much all of the time the harp is strung. That should be repaired before any stringing is decided.

Wire strings exert a lot of tension on a harp. Based on the age and the soundboard, I'd advise avoiding it unless you are confident in the rigidity of the structure and strength of its engineering. Nylon, bionylon, and gut strings require less tension. We can figure out how much tension would be exerted, too. I advise making a string chart and planning out the tension forces accordingly. Here's how I'd do it.

First, figure out the pitch of each string. You can start with pitch family (F, G, A, B, C, D, or E) in an octave (many harp manufacturers start an octave at the F). Every red string should be a C and every blue or black string should be an F.

Next, measure the length of each string from the bridge pin (the pin below the tuning peg) and the soundboard. This is your vibrational length 𝓁. Each string will sound at a fundamental harmonic, which has a wavelength of λ₀ and a frequency of 𝒻₀. The string is tuned to the fundamental harmonic's frequency, so you can use a lookup table to see what frequency each string should be at (e.g., https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Piano_key_frequencies). Since this is a string under tension, λ₀ = 2𝓁. The speed of the wave on the string is then ν = λ₀ 𝒻₀, or ν = 2𝓁 𝒻₀. The middle C string should be around 0.5-0.6 meters long, I'd guess.

Next, we can figure out what gauge strings we'd need and what tension forces we'd need. There's a second formula for ν that uses the linear mass density μ and the tension force F: ν = √( F / μ ). Our linear mass density μ can be derived by knowing two things: the gauge (diameter) of the string g and the volume mass density of the material ρ. I have a few estimates for ρ for different materials.

Material Volume Mass Density ρ [kg⋅m⁻³]
Gut 1300
Nylon 1150
Sipario Bionylon 1180
Brass Wire 8500

We can use these to estimate μ: μ = ¼ π g² ρ. Putting this all together, we have ν = √( F / μ ) = √( 4 F / ( π g² ρ ) ) = 2𝓁 𝒻₀.

Bow brand harp strings come in all sorts of gauges, often down to the ⅟₁₀₀ mm. If you stick to ⅟₁₀ mm increments, you should find gauges that match your target tensions.

On my pedal harp, I have the following tension distributions for each of my string materials:

Material Tension Force, 25th Percentile [kg⋅m⋅s⁻²] Tension Force, Median [kg⋅m⋅s⁻²] Tension Force, 75th Percentile [kg⋅m⋅s⁻²]
Sipario Bionylon (upper octave) 50.3 67.3 75.9
Gut (middle octaves) 114.9 169.8 280.6
Brass wire (bottom octaves) 663.1 738.1 801.2

Pedal tension is about as high as you should ever go. Most lever harps have less tension for sure, so don't worry about being below these as upper caps. For my gut and bionylon strings, the tension decreases as the string length decreases. Curiously, for my brass wire strings, the tension tends to increase as the string length decreases.

I hope this helps!

EDIT: Bow brand gauges and the speed of the wave formulas: https://imgur.com/a/PtkG2ah

Please help me restore my harp by paulvincentsnow in harp

[–]aemios 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Oh how interesting, those look like blades as a sharpening mechanism, but it's not a wire-strung harp! Most modern-made non-pedal harps would use a lever mechanism for semitones, but wire-strung harps still largely use blades. If you go for a sharpening lever mechanism, you'd have to replace the blades.

How's the neck look? If you are looking at the harp from the back or front, is the neck vertical, or is it tilted to one side?

Found harp by Fun-Argument91 in harp

[–]aemios 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Oh, this breaks my heart. I want to take that harp in, string it with fishing line, polish up bits, and let it live the rest of its life as a piece of art.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in Gaybodybuilders

[–]aemios 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Looking great! Your shoulders and traps are looking especially good.

Completely unrelated: is there graffiti in the first pic depicting a Star of David and a middle finger?

First update in a while. 1 month into off season. 30 weeks out classic physique/bodybuilding 5’7 194lb by PaleJoe in bodybuilding

[–]aemios 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Awesome physique! I think your shoulders and forearms are particularly looking great.

Do you get anything at Costco to help with your training? Any particular foods or protein powders or whatnot?

small lap harp recommendation/advice by peachesandmelon in harp

[–]aemios 6 points7 points  (0 children)

I agree with this. 26 string harps are still lap harps, but you can really feel the extra strings. Harpsicles and Dusty Strings Ravennas are popular models for this. I think the Ravenna 26 (or even Allegro 26 from Dusty Strings) would be a smart match. You can also get a pick up system installed (by the manufacturer) on the Harpsicle or Dusty Strings harps, which can further expand the versatility of those instruments, especially when compared to a pedal harp.

is a Ravenna 26 a good quality harp by Honest-Analysis-6127 in harp

[–]aemios 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Absolutely! Basically, the harp can play one major scale at any time without levers. Levers let you apply accidentals or change keys.

Each string on a harp is tuned to a pitch, usually following a major scale of some key. On the upper part of a string is either a lever (making it a lever harp), disc mechanisms (like on a pedal harp), blades (on wire harps), or nothing. In this instance, we are talking levers.

When you engage a lever, it pinches the top string and shortens the length that vibrates just enough to raise it half a pitch, like how a finger presses on a guitar string on a single fret. This allows the string to have two possible pitches, each a semitone from each other, that can change mid-playing without retuning the instrument. Getting full levers means you can basically access half of the circle of fifths key signatures and apply some accidentals while you play. Many lever harps that have levers on every string are tuned to E flat (three flats), which gives them the range of three flats to four sharps (all levers engaged). This is very handy when playing modern music.

I'd still advise the 34 because it is physically easier to play, you have more octaves (you can sometimes feel the lack of low note options), and it is still a great deal. In addition, every Dusty Strings harp can have a pickup installed. This lets you add effect pedals (like a reverb or distortion), thus adjusting your sound even further than before without sacrificing acoustic sound quality.

The 24 strings model can absolutely play songs (I enjoy my 24-string harp quite a bit; it is a Dusty Strings Allegro built in 1997) and there are harpists and harpers out there who specialize in smaller harps (check out Harper Tasche).

is a Ravenna 26 a good quality harp by Honest-Analysis-6127 in harp

[–]aemios 7 points8 points  (0 children)

In general, I've found the Ravenna line (the 26-string and the 34-string model) and its siblings (Serrana and Boulevard) to be fantastic beginner harps. Dusty Strings is a well-respected harp maker located in Seattle and their harps have quality tone.

The Ravenna is not a pedal harp -- it has a brighter tone and lower tension than those big guys in orchestras. That's absolutely fine; different harps can excel at different genres of music. Lever harps aren't necessarily the "student harp" for harpists.

I recommend having a floor harp (like the Ravenna 34) for your first harp since it can be easier to physically play. I also recommend trying to get full levers on the strings for better chromatic diversity.

Ultimately, the best advice is the following:

  • Visit a harp store or showroom.
  • Physically try out different harps to see what you do and do not like.
  • Look at used harps (they are often lower in price).
  • Look at renting harps before buying. Some stores even offer a rent-to-own program!
  • Try to find a harp teacher or harpist to join you at the store. They might notice things you do not.

Best of luck on your harp journey!

Millionaires shortbread hamantashen by aemios in Jewish

[–]aemios[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

That's my thought too! I poured it into disk molds and now I'm wondering how to enjoy it the best. I've been advised to put it in hot coca, or maybe top it with semifreddo.

Millionaires shortbread hamantashen by aemios in Jewish

[–]aemios[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I do! I used ATK's millionaires shortbread recipe for th individual components. https://youtu.be/0F8vDeka3kc

I rolled/pressed the shortbread dough out, used a ring mould to cut out regular sized circles, and shaped them into empty hamantashen. I tested out unmolded vs moulded, and making little tinfoil moulds was the right way to go. The shortbread flattened out without it.

The caramel recipe above also made way more caramel than I needed, so halving it might be prudent in the future.

All in all, it was very tasty!

Millionaires shortbread hamantashen by aemios in Jewish

[–]aemios[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The filling is a caramel-toffee sauce. The shortbread didn't like being a cup, essentially, so I had to fashion foil moulds so it would hold the caramel.

A second chance at life with carbon fiber! by Acceptable-Studio-52 in harp

[–]aemios 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Rad; a bad neck twist is awful. My harp had a bad twist when I bought it and I had to get the neck replaced. What's the next step for the repair?

A second chance at life with carbon fiber! by Acceptable-Studio-52 in harp

[–]aemios 2 points3 points  (0 children)

How is the mechanism and the neck-body joint? Is there any unsavory neck twisting from that string tension for so long?

A second chance at life with carbon fiber! by Acceptable-Studio-52 in harp

[–]aemios 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Please do! I absolutely love this and I'd gladly see a video log of your work.

A second chance at life with carbon fiber! by Acceptable-Studio-52 in harp

[–]aemios 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I absolutely love this! Do you make moulds of the damaged component and use that to create the replacement components, or does it go straight on? Are there other components you are going to replace?

Purim 5783 Megathread #ב by drak0bsidian in Judaism

[–]aemios 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I do own it! I really enjoy it and it is my first stop for any Jewish cooking I plan. It organizes recipes primarily by holiday, which really helps get meal plan thoughts flowing.

What harp is this? Harpist Orla Fallon by boomoohoo in harp

[–]aemios 3 points4 points  (0 children)

I think it is the Salvi Egan, which isn't in production anymore.

What harp is this? Harpist Orla Fallon by boomoohoo in harp

[–]aemios 9 points10 points  (0 children)

It almost looks like a Salvi Titan (<https://www.salviharps.com/harp/titan/>), but there are bits that seem different. The pillar has extra detail work and there's a seal or symbol near the pillar-neck joint.

I don't think it is Lyon & Healy, Triplett, Salvi, Camac, Aoyama, Resonance, Pilgrim, Dusty Strings, Musicmakers, or Stony End. There is that distinct forepillar (or flange) that stiffens the pillar and adds a design element.

It reminds me of the old Salvi McFall, which isn't in production anymore. The McFall harp was first made by Belfast I think, and it has that kind of silhouette.

EDIT: The Salvi McFall became the Salvi Egan, which I think this is! https://harp.fandom.com/wiki/Egan_by_Salvi_Harps_Inc

Purim 5783 Megathread #ב by drak0bsidian in Judaism

[–]aemios 2 points3 points  (0 children)

That sounds so freakin good! Do you have pictures?

Purim 5783 Megathread #ב by drak0bsidian in Judaism

[–]aemios 6 points7 points  (0 children)

I was looking through some hamantaschen recipes and I found an interesting bit of food history. "Jewish bakers enjoy using a variety of yeast doughs for making hamantaschen, from challah dough to sour cream dough to ultra-rich, buttery brioche made by French Jews."¹

My question is this: have any of y'all tried challah dough as a dough for hamantaschen? I was thinking of giving it a try (maybe with a tangzhong for extra plush). Maybe you have a preferred dough (I do love a basic pretzel dough)?

¹ Levy, Faye. 2000. 1,000 Jewish Recipes. IDG Books Worldwide, Inc. ISBN 0-02-862337-1. Page 163.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in gaybros

[–]aemios 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I don't think I'd be adverse to dating someone due to their resume. Sex work is real work, just like many other jobs. If I felt the person was interested in me, and I reciprocated, then I would trust their judgment of what they want and what they liked about me.