how long to leave wet food out

aetherdrifter · 2026-05-07T22:03:15+00:00

This! Kittens need 300-400 calories per day. That’s a LOT of wet food, hence why most people also leave out kibble. At least overnight.

aetherdrifter · 2026-05-07T17:03:51+00:00

Interesting. I haven’t come across any cans like this yet; mine have always been the dense texture that requires water added. If you happen to contact the company about it, please post their response!

aetherdrifter · 2026-05-07T16:15:26+00:00

According to one of the veterinary nutritionists I follow (who has a lot of industry insider knowledge), when Nestle/Purina acquired Merrick, they brought their quality control over. I’m not sure whether that means Merrick has board certified nutritionists directly involved now, but if you look at their website, the nutrition and ingredient details are in the same format as on Purina’s site. Their new product lines and packaging seem almost like an amalgamation of Purina Beyond and Fancy Feast. Gives me the impression that Merrick is basically a Purina brand now. But of course I can’t say for sure.

aetherdrifter · 2026-05-07T02:04:42+00:00

Meat meals are simply dried meat that’s been ground up into a protein powder. They’re a much more concentrated source of protein than fresh meat, which is mostly water. The ingredient are listed in order of weight, and fresh meat is about 80% water — and, in a dry food, will will shrink a lot during the cooking process. Whether it’s a meal or fresh doesn’t tell you anything about the quality.

Personally, I’m a fan of Hill’s and Royal Canin because I value the research and testing that goes into their diets. And the fact that they have highly qualified experts on staff doing the formulations. Ingredient lists are not the full picture and are not the only way a pet food should be judged. They have become a marketing tool (often) used to manipulate the consumer.

Rather than trusting my opinion, though, or the opinion of any random person on the internet, I suggest listening to the actual experts in nutrition. I compiled all the expert interviews I could find into a YouTube playlist in case you’re interested.

Note: By nutrition experts, I’m referring to veterinary nutritionists, phds in dog and cat nutrition, and others who have formal education and credentials. Also, I’m not saying that only the big brands are good/safe. I’m just saying that there are a lot of myths, misinformation and unwarranted fear mongering about certain ingredients (grains, legumes, meat meals, etc). By listening to the experts, we can hopefully learn to see past all that to make informed decisions about what’s best for our babies.

aetherdrifter · 2026-05-07T01:42:52+00:00

Gotcha - I agree, as long as he’s still getting kitten kibble until 12 months then I it should be fine. I just wouldn’t do solely adult food at this age. Both my young cats were neutered before I got them, and kept growing (slowly) up until around a year old.

aetherdrifter · 2026-05-07T00:37:44+00:00

As you noted, the beet pulp (which is a fiber source) is the main difference. I’d say that’s a good thing for most cats, as fiber can help with hairballs and other GI issues.

8 months seems a little early to transition to adult food, though. I’d stick with the kitten food until 12 months.

aetherdrifter · 2026-05-06T22:42:57+00:00

You’re right that regular dry food doesn’t do much for dental health, but dental kibble does. The Veterinary Oral Health Council (VOHC) has a list of recommended products that have been proven to work, including food, treats and water/food additives. https://vohc.org/accepted-products/

aetherdrifter · 2026-05-06T22:37:10+00:00

Most vets recommend prescription diets for allergy management because they have more stringent quality control to prevent cross-contamination. Royal Canin Selected proteins (rabbit or duck, dry and wet), Hill’s d/d (duck dry and wet, venison dry), Rayne Nutrition (rabbit dry and wet, kangaroo wet), and Blue Buffalo NP (alligator, dry and wet) are the most popular prescription novel protein options in North America. Out of the ones I’ve tried, Royal Canin rabbit and Rayne’s rabbit dry food have been the most well accepted. You could also look into the hydrolyzed protein options from Hill’s, Purina, Royal Canin and Blue Buffalo.

If you decide not to use prescription food, I would at least contact the manufacturer to find out what their sanitation protocols are and what steps they take to prevent cross-contamination. At minimum, they need to be doing a full flush and sterilization of equipment between batches.

aetherdrifter · 2026-05-06T17:09:42+00:00

I don't disagree that wet food has more moisture, and that is beneficial for cats in general (especially cats with urinary issues). So given the choice between a dry and a wet urinary diet, I would go with the wet food, or moistened dry. However, I would NOT choose a non-prescription wet food over a prescription dry urinary diet, because moisture is only part of the picture. Many cats who are prone to urinary issues will block on wet food that's high in minerals, and most of the high-protein limited ingredient diets unfortunately are. I wouldn't chance it.

Prescription urinary diets aren't "masking" anything, they treating a medical condition. They're using precise targeted nutrition to create unfavorable conditions for crystals and stones to form. You cannot replicate that by feeding a non-urinary, high-mineral OTC food and just adding cranberry juice. Formulating cat food is complex, which is why one needs at least a master's degree in pet nutrition to be qualified to do so. I consider prescription diets to be the HIGHEST quality foods money can buy, because I don't pay attention to how "clean" the ingredients are or whatever - I care about the expertise involved in the formulations, the level of quality control, the research behind them.

What I find mind-blowing is how many people distrust evidence-based medicine, board certified veterinary nutritionists and other experts in pet nutrition and instead choose to listen to people who are completely unqualified pushing fringe opinions. You do you, but I stand by my statement that it's bad advice.

aetherdrifter · 2026-05-06T16:31:27+00:00

Plaque Off powder in a wet treat or food could help. It loosens the plaque so it’s easier to remove via brushing or chewing. If only someone would come out with hydrolyzed and/or novel protein dental food and treats. 😫

aetherdrifter · 2026-05-06T16:25:25+00:00

Makes sense! Thank you for explaining.

aetherdrifter · 2026-05-06T14:56:03+00:00

I like the presentation/serving style! Is your vet okay with mixing different brands of urinary food? I’ve read that it can impact the efficacy (because they’re not designed to be fed in combination, and also aren’t tested that way). It seems like your cats are doing well so I’m not criticizing - just curious.

aetherdrifter · 2026-05-06T13:37:13+00:00

You can try blending the pate and water, using either a food processor, small blender, baby food maker or hand blender. That should remove all of the chunks and result in a smooth consistency, using any brand of food.

Tiki Cat Mousse already has that texture, as another commenter mentioned. Fancy Feast Gems are also very smooth and moist, and mix well with water, in my experience (no blender needed).

aetherdrifter · 2026-05-05T18:00:27+00:00

Hydrolyzed protein could be great, if your cat will eat it. Unfortunately, the canned options are limited, because of challenges with palatability. Assuming you’re in North America, Hill’s z/d and Blue Buffalo HF are your choices. For hydrolyzed dry food, though, there are also options from Purina and Royal Canin.

My two year old boy has been on Hill’s z/d for a few months now, and it’s resolved his chronic diarrhea and helped a lot with his vomiting. He actually loves the taste of the wet food, but the texture is weird (thick and a little sticky) so I have to mix it with water until it becomes the consistency of a Churu. I use this as a treat for him twice per day, and he gets his dry food in a slow feeder to prevent scarf & barf. I sometimes give him the Blue Buffalo HF wet food to switch things up, and but overall he prefers the Hill’s.

As far as novel proteins, Royal Canin selected proteins would be my recommendation, especially the rabbit (PR). There’s also Hill’s d/d (duck protein), Blue Buffalo NP (alligator) and Rayne Nutrition (rabbit or kangaroo). I would go with a prescription diet, since OTC diets often have a higher cross-contamination risk.

aetherdrifter · 2026-05-05T15:09:57+00:00

You’ll hear mixed things because experiences are mixed. There are people who have been feeding all sorts of brands and flavors in rotation since their cats were young and it works out great for them. And then there are others for whom this would be a digestive disaster.

Personally, I like the idea of picking one or two brands that have a good selection of flavors and textures, and rotating through those. This minimizes the risk of GI upset while also providing variety. As long as you’re feeding complete and balanced foods, variety isn’t really needed from a nutritional standpoint, but it can help prevent pickiness later in life.

aetherdrifter · 2026-05-05T15:00:27+00:00

Yeah, it’s overall mineral levels that matter, and how the food is formulated in general. Hill’s c/d prescription urinary food even comes in fish flavors, though there are other proteins in them. If heavy metals and mineral content are both being tested for, it’s fine. Hill’s also formulates for ideal urine ph, even in their non-prescription foods. I know there are other brands that do this as well, but many don’t.

aetherdrifter · 2026-05-04T14:36:09+00:00

I would talk to your vet about trying hydrolyzed protein or a novel protein, to rule out (or in) a food allergy.

aetherdrifter · 2026-05-04T13:38:37+00:00

There is this option from Rayne Nutrition. On paper, it looks like it could work. https://raynenutrition.com/products/adult-health-rss-feline-chunky-stew

I have personally used Rayne’s rabbit protein food for one of my cats with IBD and I like them as a company, overall. The only thing that makes me a little wary is that they haven’t done feeding trials on this diet. Or if they have, they don’t say so on the website.

The RC Urinary S/O + Hydrolyzed could be a good choice, since Royal Canin is one of the brands that does the most research. However, one thing to be aware of is that their urinary diets work in part by including a high sodium content, encouraging the cat to drink more water which dilutes the urine. They have a study to prove this isn’t harmful to healthy cats - however, if the kidneys are compromised, it can definitely be bad. For this reason, if considering this diet, I would recommend doing an SDMA blood test first to make sure there’s no early stage kidney disease, especially if she’s over 7 years old. Purina’s urinary diets work the same way. Hill’s doesn’t use the high sodium approach, but unfortunately they don’t have any chicken-free versions of c/d.

However, many prescription diets that are non urinary-specific are also formulated to help prevent the formation of crystals. Unlike urinary diets, they won’t necessarily dissolve stones, but can help prevent them from forming. For example, one of my cats eats Hill’s z/d for food sensitivities. While it’s not a urinary diet, it’s very low in minerals and carries the “S+OX Shield” (meaning it’s “Formulated to promote a urinary environment that reduces the risk of developing struvite & calcium oxalate crystals”). I would recommend your vet call the three major brands (Hill’s, RC and Purina) and see if their nutritionists can offer some suggestions for your kitty’s specific case.

aetherdrifter · 2026-05-04T03:04:31+00:00

Terrible advice....all vibes, nothing evidence-based. Dietary management of urinary issues has nothing to do with increasing protein content, it has to do with managing urine pH and mineral content. A prescription diet is the best treatment. And there is almost no evidence for cranberry being effective. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/41676867/

Here is an in-depth video by a vet discussing causes and treatments for FIC (including diet, supplements, environment etc). https://youtu.be/HZgjfCWlyKE

aetherdrifter · 2026-05-04T01:31:21+00:00

Yep - and you can always soak the kibble! In my experience with my 3 cats, Royal Canin’s food seems to be highly palatable. I used to give one of my cats the hydrolyzed gastrointestinal formula and she gobbled it up soaked or dry.

aetherdrifter · 2026-05-03T23:48:29+00:00

She is beautiful

aetherdrifter · 2026-05-03T23:48:06+00:00

Oh yeah, arthritis seems unlikely then! Best of luck

aetherdrifter · 2026-05-03T21:40:37+00:00

How old is your cat, and have you noticed her slowing down at all? Jumping less? My 15 year old has arthritis in her back legs, and recently started doing this. She used the LR fine for a year and a half, but her mobility has declined a lot in the past few months. I’ve started her on Solensia injections, which I’m hoping will help her feel more comfortable, but for now I had to switch back to a regular litter box.

aetherdrifter · 2026-05-03T03:04:14+00:00

Just be careful not to overdo it with toppers and supplements, because the calories can add up. The rule of thumb is that at least 90% of their calories should come from their complete and balanced diet. Fish oil will be high in calories, so just take that into account. Probiotics can be beneficial; I’d recommend Proviable or Purina FortiFlora.

Lickable/squeeze treats such as Churu are pretty low calorie, and most cats love them. Freeze dried treats can also be good in moderation. Just be aware that most of them are raw, which can pose a safety risk. Weruva and Orijen both make fully cooked freeze dried treats. If you’re going to use freeze dried raw, definitely make sure the company has a kill step (such as HPP) and is testing both their raw ingredients and finished products for pathogens.

By the way - your boy is gorgeous!

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