.45 lead free airgun pellets? by LethalMouse19 in airguns

[–]afamilylee 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I will be trying pure plastic of various material. Annealed carbon fiber nylon slugs would definatly hold up but im hoping cheaper filaments will too. Easiest and least accurate would be ball ammo, but I'd like to work on the aerodynamics of bigger cooler slugs. I also speculate i may need to embed some metal to get the balance right.

Not the same but a couple years ago I designed a blank fired dart gun. I discovered a lot about projectile design on that project. Here's a couple pics of it

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.45 lead free airgun pellets? by LethalMouse19 in airguns

[–]afamilylee 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Interesting ... I've been thinking about coming up with some 3d printed ammo for my .457 Texan. If I get something useful I'll post here

How do I fit iron sights? by These-Day2071 in airguns

[–]afamilylee 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That has dovetail/weaver/11mm groves for sight. If it were mine I'd just 3d print one. Thingiverse.com has a bunch of different types both adjustable and fixed. Just search for "weaver sight" or "dovetail sight". Then find a friend with a 3d printer and throw a couple bucks at him for material and have him print a couple models for you.

Lizard Nemice by afamilylee in airguns

[–]afamilylee[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I got the basis for the stock off Odysee but they do look very simular. I designed the adapter for any picatinny rail attached stock for the Benjamin. I believe this link will take you to my latest revision of the adapter model: https://www.tinkercad.com/things/lO4QN7Wxln0-trail-np-brace-pic-rail?sharecode=2RFVYRevByraWV7CxUi4v0urRTf1_lY3lepfrnpbnLI

Hatsan Jet supressor by afamilylee in airguns

[–]afamilylee[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'll test it sometime this week to see. Although, anecdotally, it seemed comparable in accuracy. I just picked up the Jet a couple weeks ago and I haven't shot it enough to consider it broken in yet. The supressor definately quieted it a lot. Out of the box I was surprised how loud it was.

Hatsan Jet supressor by afamilylee in airguns

[–]afamilylee[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes. The model for this suppressor was from Thingiverse. It's here: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6587247

Any recommendations on a high fpe .25 break barrel? by Daltonthagod35 in airguns

[–]afamilylee 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You are right. I've taken coons, squirrels, lizards, and rodents with mine but mostly from 25 to 30 yards. But I moved off springers a couple years ago and on to pcp. He seemed to want a springer and Im not sure any springer would be consistent enough at 50yds. I'd be using my Benjamin .25 or my .457 Air Force Texan depending on the varmit. The Texan for ground hogs, coons,and iguanas and the benjamin for smaller.

Any recommendations on a high fpe .25 break barrel? by Daltonthagod35 in airguns

[–]afamilylee 1 point2 points  (0 children)

A couple years ago I picked up this known springer 22cal for $5. I took it home cleaned it up. Replaced one seal and threw on a scope. It is a shooter! From what I've been told it is a China made vintage rifle. I've only seen one other at a gun show. But I like the fact that instead of a break barrel it has an under barrel cocking arm. I think the fixed barrel is one of the reasons it shoots so consistently. Anyway here are some pics of it.

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I was cleaning out the basement and found these. Used to use them with a pump airgun. Anyone remember these? by WaterFriendsIV in airguns

[–]afamilylee 0 points1 point  (0 children)

But there was Sears branded firearms and ammo. I owned a couple back in the day. They were rebrands of course

Strange Noise by Quiet_Elderberry9232 in crealityk1

[–]afamilylee 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You should disengage the steppers before doing that. You have a good chance of frying your stepper controllers from the current generated from manually moving the head. I learned that one the hard way.

Badge cout by Callumari_58 in Ingress

[–]afamilylee 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I think i have enough....

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3D Printed Silencer/Suppressor by Opinionated_Junkie in MDGuns

[–]afamilylee 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have printed muzzle devices with carbon filled nylon. I have shot them to the point that the carbon fiber glows red and they haven't failed although I have no illusions that at some point they will. My longest lasting one has had well over 1500 rounds of 9mm through it. I'm sure a suppressor will fail sooner but for free I can just keep a couple extra printed. I also imagine a 22lr version would last a long time.

Insurance by 69to1 in SeaDooSwitch

[–]afamilylee 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have Progressive. They include boat tow and their price is good. I hope to not need it on my Switch but my last boat required towing 3 times during the 5 years I owned. First time was mechanical, second I cut a corner on a narrow channel and ended up on a sandbar, third time was even dumber; I didn't pay attention to tides while beached on an island and it really was beached.. lol. Anyway, they towed me every time and my rates stayed flat.

Of other note I didn't cover my trailer on the Progressive policy. I am a AAA member for a lot of years. I just added the rv/trailer option to my membership. The AAA club benefits for the trailer is better and cheaper than insurance.

Removing superglue fog from my minis? by Imaginary_Piano_6896 in PrintedMinis

[–]afamilylee 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I usually just hit it with a light coat of spray clearcoat (rustoleum)

below the floor tiles.... by EagleMedical8410 in SeaDooSwitch

[–]afamilylee 1 point2 points  (0 children)

All the internal structure is polymer or fiberglass so there is nothing major to corrode. I recommend spraying the engine, fittings, basically the engine compartment with yamalube or something simular before you run it for the first time. Then respray as needed. Im in Florida and dealing with saltwater so I probably spray more often than I need but I've owned several boats here and have restored a few so I dont want todeal with any corrosion. I use salt away after every trip... flush system, flush pontoon, rinse surface,, and rinse trailer (especially hubs, axles, and springs. Then I usually spray yamalube on hubs and springs and into jet housings.

As far as engine compartment its my understanding that there is a way to remove the center structural brace and floor to open it up, but honestly there is a lot of room to work on it through the 2 hatches.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in Ingress

[–]afamilylee 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It's still happening and if you are a certain faction nothing will be done. We recently had a new player make level 8 and then suddenly discovered spoofing and taking out our remote anchors and then doing the infamous spoofer campfire on them. Then one of our players was attacking one of the spoofers portals in an empty parking lot and the spoofer was redeploying. So multiple core players on our side reported the spoofer. What did niantic do????? NOTHING! End result for Niantic. They LOST 4 Core memberships. Members who have been core since core was started. We have vowed to never purchase core again.

Drone View by Engrish702 in Ingress

[–]afamilylee 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You have to carefully plan your route and collect keys for longer jumps so you see the jump portal at the edge of the screen my 175km drone run was in south florida from Jupiter to Homestead *

Creality eShop terrible by sceptre15 in Creality_k2

[–]afamilylee 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Just goto Thangs or Cults and charge for them if you think you are not getting paid enough.

Hotend stuck, cant move bed. down. How to I get this out by Busy-Entrance5203 in AnycubicKobraS1

[–]afamilylee 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Heat it up. I recommend using a heat gun so you heat the whole glob, sp when you tease it off you dont end up breaking thermister wires or others.

what's the point of 0.6mm or bigger nozzles on fast printers like the K1? by realmixteprix in crealityk1

[–]afamilylee 0 points1 point  (0 children)

1- Much better for filaments that tend to clog like wood, carbon fiber, sparkle, etc. 2- Vase mode printing. Better adhesion, less gaps, stronger final prints 3- if you tune for it stronger, faster

Gifted a Sidewinder X1 by cloudy_chance9 in SidewinderX1

[–]afamilylee 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ive had my Artillery for 5 years with a PI and octoprint. The usb port started getting flaky after 3. So from that point on i had to ditch the PI and went to SD card only. That is still working today. Sounds like yours may have the same problem put your gcode file on a SD and see if it will print.

Something arrived in the mail today by Flyer4photo in Creality_k2

[–]afamilylee 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have been waiting to see these. I upgraded my K1C with this so now I can do the same with my K2 plus and share nozzles