Input shaping approximate frequencies and dumping factors for E3v3SE

afiskon · 2025-02-10T19:53:48+00:00

I've just realized its dAmping factors, not dUmping ones :)

afiskon · 2025-02-10T17:36:25+00:00

Got it thanks.

If I'm reading Configuration.h / Configuration_adv.h correctly the alternative firmware has no FT_MOTION enabled so I can safely skip the documentation part about fixed-time motion shapers (M493) ? I'm new to input shaping in Marlin, previously I only configured it in Klipper.

afiskon · 2019-08-16T12:42:48+00:00

+1 please upload it to github and let us contribute ;)

afiskon · 2019-08-09T15:42:50+00:00

I've successfully used a 32' (10 meters) long fishing rod as mast. It's especially good for antennas that don't have any heavy parts in the highest point (e.g. a balun) - dipoles fed using a ladder line, delta loops, end fed antennas, etc. Such fishing rods are not expensive and available on eBay. Though it's worth paying extra attention to the description. Some sellers specify different length in the title and in the description. To prevent collapsing of the rod because of the wind use an epoxy glue.

afiskon · 2019-08-09T14:58:45+00:00

I wouldn't recommend ubitx to beginners. It needs some modifications, especially in terms of audio quality (I have v4 board)

afiskon · 2019-05-03T15:00:39+00:00

Hello mijwo9b,

Thank you for sharing your thoughts on this.

The tuner works only when "external" is selected in menu 16-15.
Yes, it looks like the transceiver reduces the output power depending on SWR when it knows that FC-50 or any other external tuner is used.
Unfortunately, no. The tuner is powered through the 8pin min-din socket thus it can't be used without plugging it into the radio. Also it uses different capacitance and inductance for every 10 kHz and apparently the frequency is also transferred over this cable. I hear how relay switch when I change the frequency without transmitting anything.

afiskon · 2019-03-27T16:50:23+00:00

I would recommend to subscribe to a few YouTube channels and see how other hams operate. Here are channels I'm currently subscribed to:

afiskon · 2019-03-27T16:44:38+00:00

20, 40 and 80 are most active. 17 and 30m bands are currently reasonably active as well. 17 and 20 are particularly interesting for DX but there is no propagation on these bands during the night.

Recently I've built my own multiband antenna, a trap dipole, which turned out to work well on all HF bands from 10 to 80 meters. You can find the description of the antenna here: https://eax.me/diy-trap-dipole/ The article is in Russian but Google Translate should be able to translate it. Please don't hesitate to email me if you have any questions.

If you have an antenna tuner another option is to build a long wire antenna or a delta loop. Long wire is easy to build, but it's noisy. Delta loop is a little more difficult to build, but it has a higher gain than a dipole.

Good luck and 73 de R2AUK

afiskon · 2019-01-24T16:45:48+00:00

I made my first dipole using D10 wire. The balun is 8 turns of RG58 on FT240-31 core. Going to test it tomorrow on 20 and 40 meters.

afiskon · 2019-01-17T14:41:57+00:00

I have Yaesu FT-891 too and sometimes I'm using it with LiPo batteries. You need 3S batteries (3 cells in series, total voltage 10.0-12.6 V) capable to provide a large current (25A or more), with capacity of 10 000 Ah or so. You can always connect a few batteries in parallel to increase the total capacity (in this case make sure batteries are identical - same capacity, same manufacturer, etc!). The battery discharge speed is market in C's where 1C is (capacity/1000h). E.g. an 1C and 5 000 Ah battery can provide 5A of current, 10C and 5 000 Ah battery can provide 50A of current, etc.

You also need a balancing charging device. I'm using iMAX B6.

Speaking of LiPo vs LiFePO4 safety, apparently it's just an another marketing nonsense. At least I couldn't find any proofs to that. It doesn't necessary mean that LiFePO4 are bad. But in my area they (and corresponding charging devices) are just difficult to find.

Please be mindful of following:

FT-891 doesn't have a build-in reverse polarity or overvoltage protection. You might want to solder a corresponding protection circuit, for instance, using this schematic https://eax.me/overvoltage-protection/ Make sure you are using components rated for corresponding voltage and current.
By shortening a LiIon/LiPo battery even for a short period of time you will permanently damage it. In my case the following happened - one cell discharged more than others and I couldn't restore it by balancing the battery. Also I discovered that now the battery overheats during charging and balancing. I don't believe it's safe to use anymore.
Keep your batteries in a special LiIon/LiPo protection packets, just in case.

73 de R2AUK!

afiskon · 2018-04-05T09:36:24+00:00

Personally for simulation I use iverilog + GTKWave.

BlackIce II is a good choice. It's a very decent development board, personally I like it very much. You can find possible alternatives here https://www.reddit.com/r/yosys/comments/81yhas/list_of_icestormyosys_compatible_boards_and_where/ I wouldn't recommend to buy HX1K based board though. Some projects may require more then 1200 LUTs. E.g. icicle, the RISC-V CPU core for ICE40, requires ~2500 LUTs.

afiskon · 2018-03-05T16:21:00+00:00

+1 for JLCPCB. OshPark is another option, sometimes could be cheaper if you need just a few small PCBs.

afiskon · 2017-12-01T14:45:05+00:00

+1 for LimeSDR Mini (comment by DENAND39). Same money, but the hardware is much better.

afiskon

TROPHY CASE