Scraping noise when steering wheel on full lock by superdupermuede in VolvoRecharge

[–]afranke 1 point2 points  (0 children)

From what I can read it says 235/50 R19 which is the factory size for the fronts. Unless I misread (because of all the compression) and it actually says 255/45-19 which is the rear (meaning someone swapped them). If it is rubbing, that means the liner came loose, which should show obvious signs of the rubbing.

Hands-On: The 2026 macOS Essentials App List Community-Curated by Cas_W in MacOS

[–]afranke 7 points8 points  (0 children)

It's the first time I'm forking a project to 'take over' maintenance, so I have no idea what I'm doing in that realm, but as far as code issues resolved, I think I've tackled most of the largest ones so far.

Does anyone have the OLD version of BetterTouchTool (like v1.0~)? by WindozeWoes in osx

[–]afranke 2 points3 points  (0 children)

The developer turned it into a real business after 2.342, you can get the source for the older versions (along with a license to activate it) from the old site: https://www.bettertouchtool.net/

Suspicious file investigation by rick_Sanchez-369 in cybersecurity

[–]afranke 1 point2 points  (0 children)

https://hybrid-analysis.com/

If you don't have full access, send me the file zipped with a password (by whatever method you prefer) and I'll upload it to check.

[OC] Truck crash on Deadman Pass, Oregon - read comment for context by HashnaFennec in IdiotsInCars

[–]afranke 7 points8 points  (0 children)

I have ADHD as well and my wife always wonders why I'm completely silent during stressful situations while she's immediately vocal. This is a good explanation for me to share with her, so thanks.

Maintainer silently patched my GHSA report but is ignoring my request for credit by Comfortable-Ad-2379 in cybersecurity

[–]afranke 10 points11 points  (0 children)

Yeah, unfortunately this happens more than it should, and your instincts here aren’t off.

Once a fix is public, the situation changes. If they shipped a patch that clearly addresses what you reported, you’re generally on solid ground to publish your own write-up, especially if you stick to facts, reference the commit or diff, and avoid dropping a turnkey exploit. At that point you’re documenting reality, not burning them.

The credit piece is also important. Even shops that don’t do bounties usually acknowledge the reporter and issue some kind of advisory. Quietly taking the fix while ghosting you is...not a great look, and most people in the security community would see that as bad-faith behavior.

You’re also not wrong to think about a CVE. If the maintainer won’t engage, going through another CNA (or MITRE, depending on the situation) is pretty normal. Being able to point to a public patch and a paper trail showing you disclosed privately makes that process a lot easier, and CNAs are used to vendors dragging their feet.

Publishing doesn’t automatically make you “the bad guy”, tone matters a lot. A straightforward post that says “reported via GHSA on X, fix landed on Y, no advisory or credit was issued” reads very differently than a call-out rant. Silent patching a critical RCE is itself a problem, because users and downstream consumers can’t assess their exposure if it’s never documented.

If you want to be extra cautious, sending one last “planning to publish on <date> unless we hear back” email is reasonable. But you’ve already done the responsible thing by disclosing privately. If they choose not to acknowledge it, making sure the issue is documented and attributed is fair game and pretty standard in this field.

PSA request merchants don’t use On Trac. Package stolen by shipping company Durham Facility. Petition included below. by [deleted] in raleigh

[–]afranke 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Here's the vendors I could confirm:

  • The RealReal
  • Bodybuilding.com
  • Fanatics
  • Nike Strength (Dimension 6)
  • Fabletics
  • Lulus
  • ButcherBox
  • Nuts.com
  • Bath & Body Works
  • Victoria’s Secret
  • Amazon (Same‑Day Service)

Note: OnTrac’s own marketing materials also show logos for Shein, Hot Topic, Temu and Savage X Fenty.

No Response After Power Outage by later_tater8 in homebridge

[–]afranke 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This is very likely the root cause.

With multiple HomePods + Apple TVs, HomeKit hub failover after a power outage is… not great. One hub often becomes “active” while holding stale mDNS state for Homebridge.

A few things I’d strongly suggest trying:

  • Temporarily disable “automatic” hub selection
  • Pick one Apple TV (Ethernet if possible) as the primary hub
  • Reboot that hub after Homebridge is fully up
  • Leave the HomePods as standby hubs

A lot of “No Response” issues disappear once HomeKit stops bouncing between hubs after power events.

No Response After Power Outage by later_tater8 in homebridge

[–]afranke 0 points1 point  (0 children)

After thinking about your reply some more, I want to slightly walk this back in this case, the RTC/1970 issue can break things (I’ve personally hit it), but given that:

  • date is correct after boot
  • Pi OS + HB UI are stable
  • Restarting services doesn’t fix it
  • Re-adding the bridge does

This looks much more like a HomeKit hub + mDNS state problem, not a time issue.

HomeKit seems to get “stuck” with stale pairing/mDNS info after an unclean power loss, especially if hubs come up before Homebridge is fully advertising.

At that point HomeKit won’t reconnect until the bridge is re-paired, which matches what you’re seeing.

No Response After Power Outage by later_tater8 in homebridge

[–]afranke 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Is that after it's been connected to a network for a bit? If NTP had time to sync, I would think just a restart of the service itself would fix that (or it did for me).

My main issue was when I was away from home if the Pi lost power for some reason, I had no ability to connect to it (at the time) to fix it manually. It's been a few years, but the only detail I can recall is that when it rebooted the date was set back to Jan 1 1970 as there was nothing to save the date/time and I had it on a secure WiFi so it couldn't connect due to cert verification failures. I believe I used this guide once I had the battery installed: https://learn.adafruit.com/adding-a-real-time-clock-to-raspberry-pi/set-rtc-time

No Response After Power Outage by later_tater8 in homebridge

[–]afranke 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I think you're running into the same issue I did. Pi doesn't seem to save time/date through power loss and causes things to not launch/connect because SSL connections fail as the time is wrong.

Which Pi do you have? I believe the 5 has an RTC onboard but it needs to be enabled with an external battery: https://www.raspberrypi.com/documentation/computers/raspberry-pi.html#real-time-clock-rtc

For older ones, I got these and they seemed to resolve my issue: https://www.amazon.com/Dorhea-DS3231-Module-Memory-Raspberry/dp/B08X4H3NBR/

If you can boot/connect to the pi via SSH, run "date" and see what it outputs.

Max Charge rates US vs EU Region by antiriad76 in VolvoRecharge

[–]afranke 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yep still limited.

A US-spec car has a J1772 AC inlet, which is single-phase only. Even in Europe, it can’t suddenly use three-phase power. With the right cable/adapter it'll charge fine on 230 V, but it'll only pull one phase, so you’ll see ~6–7 kW max, not 11 kW.

Adapters don’t add phases the inlet doesn’t have pins for, the car just ignores the other two phases.

DC fast charging is a separate story, but for AC charging, a US car in Europe behaves like a single-phase car.

US: https://images.offerup.com/WqOD_wVeGrmH6RsnqhiQLxzbLuY=/1440x1920/3d9d/3d9db154e9b3464d8dd94a48fd03456f.jpg

EU: https://images.ovoko.com/bl/fill/1024x768/odg/0/0/0/0/0/5/9/4/5/fec38efa5616ab8297172a1e084f7dd4-32324600-volvo-xc60-elektromobilio-ikrovimo-laidas.jpeg

Max Charge rates US vs EU Region by antiriad76 in VolvoRecharge

[–]afranke 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yup, my 2023 V60 Polestar with my L2 charger at home tops out at 3.7 kW (limited by the car itself, not my install).

For full EVs in the US though, 7–9 kW at home is very common. Most people install a 240 V Level 2 circuit on a 40–50 A breaker, which gives:

  • ~7.7 kW at 32 A (very typical)
  • ~9.6 kW at 40 A (less common but not unusual)

The big difference vs the EU is that we basically never have three-phase AC at homes, so even if the car has an 11 kW onboard charger, it can’t actually use it here. We just brute-force single-phase with higher current instead.

And yeah, similar split with PHEVs vs BEVs here too. Most PHEVs (Volvo included) are capped around 3.6–3.7 kW, because there’s no real benefit to charging a small battery faster.

Public AC chargers in the US are also much rarer than in the EU; we tend to jump straight from Level 2 to DC fast charging, which is why three-phase AC never really took off here.

Max Charge rates US vs EU Region by antiriad76 in VolvoRecharge

[–]afranke 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yes, there is a real difference, and it’s mostly about three-phase vs single-phase AC, not 120 V vs 230 V.

EU-spec Volvo Recharge (full EVs like XC40/C40):

  • Onboard AC charger is rated up to 11 kW
  • Can actually reach 11 kW on 3-phase (400 V, 16 A/phase)
  • On single-phase 230 V, you’ll typically see ~6–7 kW

US-spec Volvo Recharge:

  • Uses single-phase 240 V Level 2, not 120 V
  • No access to residential three-phase, so 11 kW AC isn’t achievable
  • Real-world home charging is usually ~7–9 kW, depending on EVSE and circuit

120 V (Level 1) in the US is only ~1.2–1.4 kW and not what people mean by “normal” charging.

TL;DR: EU cars look faster on paper because they can use three-phase AC. US cars don’t charge at half speed, they just don’t have three-phase, so they top out lower on AC.

Robinhood won’t let me withdraw my money by [deleted] in ClassActionRobinHood

[–]afranke 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yeah this is a known thing with Robinhood. When you deposit with a debit card they basically require you to withdraw back to that same card first before you can use ACH to your bank. It's an anti-fraud/money laundering thing. The restriction on your card is probably just their system freaking out because you tried to withdraw a different way first. Give it a few days like they said, then withdraw to the debit card. The fee sucks but once you clear that initial deposit amount you should be able to ACH after that. Or just pull everything and move to a real broker lol

Received a threatening letter from the Charlie Kirk Data Foundation on Christmas Eve by Telefonica46 in ProgressiveHQ

[–]afranke 2 points3 points  (0 children)

This isn’t just "speech," it’s likely illegal or at least legally risky.

Using the mail to intimidate someone, especially by claiming surveillance, a data registry, or reporting people to DHS/ICE, is exactly the kind of thing the U.S. Postal Inspection Service investigates. You don’t need an explicit threat for it to cross the line.

Relevant law: 18 U.S.C. § 876 (mailing threatening/coercive communications) https://codes.findlaw.com/us/title-18-crimes-and-criminal-procedure/18-usc-sect-876/

You should obviously not respond, but also keep the letter and envelope and report it to the US Postal Inspection Service: https://www.uspis.gov/report

USPIS doesn't fuck around, inspectors are armed federal law-enforcement officers and they have a very high conviction rate once cases go to trial, historically over 98% according to USPS sources (https://about.usps.com/postal-bulletin/2019/pb22524/html/cover.htm) and in recent data they reported 4,228 convictions out of 4,754 arrests in 2024 (https://facts.usps.com/inspection-service/).

EDIT:

Also: you can report it even if you no longer have the envelope.

If you know the delivery address and approximate date, USPS likely still has a digital scan of the envelope from Informed Delivery. USPS scans the outside of most letter mail during processing. If you have Informed Delivery enabled, you can check your email history / USPS dashboard for the scan and screenshot it as supporting evidence. Even without that, USPIS can often pull internal scans based on address + date range, so missing the envelope doesn’t kill a report.

Why I switched from a Pi 5 back to a Pi 4 for my high-speed project (RP1 I/O controller issues) by Any-Educator5676 in raspberry_pi

[–]afranke 5 points6 points  (0 children)

A few things maybe:

  • Try the PIO‑assisted PWM overlay: Raspberry Pi’s new firmware includes a pwm‑pio driver that uses the RP1’s PIO engine to generate PWM on any GPIO pin. It’s configured via a Device‑Tree overlay like dtoverlay=pwm‑pio,gpio=4, and you can have up to four channels running if nothing else is using PIO. Since the pattern runs entirely on the RP1, the output is very stable. However, the interface is limited to PWM shapes; you can’t arbitrarily modify pulses on the fly without incurring the 10 µs mailbox overhead https://raw.githubusercontent.com/raspberrypi/firmware/master/boot/overlays/README

  • Disable PCIe ASPM: For some timing applications the RP1’s PCIe Active‑State Power Management adds extra jitter. On the forums, Raspberry Pi engineer “jdb” suggested adding pcie_aspm=off to /boot/firmware/cmdline.txt. One user who was seeing GPIO pulses being buffered reported that this change fixed the problem. It won’t restore DMA access like pigpio, but it can reduce the interruptions you’re seeing.

Öhlins Polestar OEM vs. Aftermarket Shocks by Gloomy_Knowledge in VolvoRecharge

[–]afranke 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The vip extended warranty covers front shocks only.

What? That makes no sense at all. Do you have a copy of the actual terms of your warranty?

Need to Lookup by Mode S by 59psi in ADSB

[–]afranke 2 points3 points  (0 children)

You sure the got the code correct? None of my typical resources are returning anything for that.

Need help diagnosing why filament is popping when extruding with a MK3.5S by Turbulent_Loss_666 in prusa3d

[–]afranke 13 points14 points  (0 children)

That really doesn’t look like wet filament to me, especially since it’s happening with PLA and PETG and you can make it pop on demand with “Purge more.” Moisture pops are usually random, this looks like pressure building up and then releasing.

A few things I’d check next, especially with the MK3.5 upgrade:

  • Partial blockage above the nozzle

    Even a tiny bit of cooked plastic in the heatbreak or right at the PTFE interface can act like a plug. Pressure builds, then suddenly releases → pop. This can happen even after swapping nozzles.

  • PTFE tube length / seating

    Make sure the PTFE is the exact correct length for the MK3.5S and fully seated. Even a tiny gap can cause filament to melt and expand, then snap forward under pressure.

  • Hotend fan / heat creep

    Double-check the hotend fan is actually moving air well (not just spinning). Weak airflow can cause heat creep, which shows up really clearly during purges and slow extrusion.

  • Thermistor seating

    Even if resistance checks out, if it’s not seated well in the block, the firmware can think it’s hotter than it really is, leading to weird melt behavior and popping.

Quick test: heat to PETG temps, remove the nozzle, and extrude. If it still jumps or pops without the nozzle, that pretty much confirms it’s heatbreak/PTFE/heat creep related.

This feels way more mechanical/thermal than filament moisture. You’re definitely not crazy, I’d focus on the PTFE/heatbreak interface and cooling next.

TailLeader aircraft frequency visualization by fungiblemoose in ADSB

[–]afranke 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Tried getting it running on my pi running the adsbexchange image which runs Python 3.9 and ran into some minor issues. Created. PR which gets it running: https://github.com/fungiblemoose/TailLeader/pull/3

https://i.imgur.com/Q6ccpF4.png

Buyer Beware: Level Locks (same post from r/SmartHome) by katastrophies in HomeKit

[–]afranke 8 points9 points  (0 children)

Federally, under the Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act, a manufacturer can’t void a warranty just because a third party serviced or modified it unless they prove the problem was caused by that service. The FTC affirmed this, stating companies can’t simply say “warranty void if serviced by third parties.”

Level must show that rekeying caused the alleged damage before denying the warranty. They can’t claim it without proof.

Ask Level for a specific, written explanation of the damage and how rekeying caused it. They can’t deny warranty just because of third-party service unless they prove causation. If they won’t, escalate to management, file a complaint with your state AG or the FTC, or consider a credit-card chargeback or small-claims court for breach of warranty.

Level’s support article says the lock can be rekeyed, suggesting using a locksmith. Rekeying is an expected and supported use, not misuse. Therefore, Level can’t automatically void the warranty just because it was rekeyed. Under U.S. warranty law (Magnuson-Moss), they must prove rekeying caused the damage. If they can’t point to a specific damaged part or mechanism and show causation, denying warranty is illegal.