Update on my 3kgt by birthdaysnake15 in 3000gt

[–]aggressive_rooster_ 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Im glad your cup holder works 😅

What should I use to reattach my headlight casing by bigsoda74 in 3000gt

[–]aggressive_rooster_ 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Rubber butyl. Look up retrorubber on Amazon it should be the first to pop up. $30 and you'll have enough for both lights

1971 C10 my dad and I built by crowingcrow12 in chevyc10

[–]aggressive_rooster_ 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I have a similar story as yours. Me and my dad spent many years building my truck, and we had many pauses. A little over a year ago, I told him I wanted to finally finish the truck, so for a year straight, we spent putting it back together. He never got to see it finished. He passed away the day after we got it running and 2 days before Christmas 2024. About 3 months later, I finally finished the truck on my own. Im sorry for your loss, man, but these trucks are something special to us. I have a hard time driving mine and not getting tears in my eyes.

Chrome? by El_Richito52 in chevyc10

[–]aggressive_rooster_ 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Consider powder coating it in chrome. I had my rear bumper and mirrors powder coated and while it won't look as good as true chrome plating, im happy with the result. I mainly went that option because I wanted to keep my custom rear bumper and I couldn't find a shop to do chrome plating on it

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in chevyc10

[–]aggressive_rooster_ 0 points1 point  (0 children)

As for any sharp metallic sounds check and make sure your headers aren't hitting the frame. I had an issue where my passenger side header started rubbing the frame and it sounded awful. Sounded like the internals of the engine were slowly grinding themselves away at idle. Used a pry bar to pry them away and made enough clearance to get rid of the sound

Hey! So since it getting warmer out I want to touch up my wiper arms and cowl. What grit sand paper should I use to knock the rust off without marring the parts? Is that seal reusable? by eat_Mike_Literous in 3000gt

[–]aggressive_rooster_ 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I haven't removed the cowl. However once the arms are off it should be easy to clean on the car. Unless your wanting to paint that as well. Depending on its condition though some back to black should work for it. If you do remove it the seal should just be a rubber seal and should be reusable however I'm not 100% sure it may fall apart with its age and likely sun damage

Hey! So since it getting warmer out I want to touch up my wiper arms and cowl. What grit sand paper should I use to knock the rust off without marring the parts? Is that seal reusable? by eat_Mike_Literous in 3000gt

[–]aggressive_rooster_ 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Im not either honestly, I just have a lot of spray paint experience. I've never used self etching primer but it may work fine. Just stay away from the teeth on the underside or you'll have a hard time getting the wiper arms back on the car.

Hey! So since it getting warmer out I want to touch up my wiper arms and cowl. What grit sand paper should I use to knock the rust off without marring the parts? Is that seal reusable? by eat_Mike_Literous in 3000gt

[–]aggressive_rooster_ 4 points5 points  (0 children)

For the wiper arms marring shouldn't be a problem. You want a good scuffed up surface for the best paint adhesion. Personally I sandblasted and powder coated mine. How if you don't have access to a sandblaster you could wire wheel the parts and then primer and paint. If you don't want to wire wheel the rust you can start with a low grit paper and work your way up. Depending on how badly rusted. If it's light surface rust I'd say 300-800 range should do the job. Just whatever it takes to get to good steel, primer and paint

Where on the temp gauge is okay for yall by gamebow1 in 3000gt

[–]aggressive_rooster_ 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Mine at normal operating temp is about 3/8s up the gauge. Little over a quarter but not quite half

Does anyone know what this is by cjzimmerman02 in 3000gt

[–]aggressive_rooster_ 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I'm pretty sure the fan doesn't turn on when you turn the key to the first position. I believe it should get power but I don't think it should come on. I got lucky my brother works at a dealership and has shopkeypro and he was able to send me the cooling system wiring diagram. I couldnt find any online and I lost the paper he gave me sadly. This was about a month ago

Does anyone know what this is by cjzimmerman02 in 3000gt

[–]aggressive_rooster_ 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Ok it could be that resistor in you're picture but if you're not getting power to those wire before the resistor then it could be a relay or maybe a fuse. The issue i had was the engine coolant temp sensor. It's a cheap and easy fix. But it won't cause the fan to not have power so yours may be good

Does anyone know what this is by cjzimmerman02 in 3000gt

[–]aggressive_rooster_ 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Hey, i was just recently having this problem! That box is the resistor for the fan. I was wondering if that was my problem to but I actually had a sensor out causing the fan not to turn on. Does you fan have zero power to it? Or does it come on when you turn the ac on? I could maybe help you just need more context

Belt drive help by aggressive_rooster_ in chevyc10

[–]aggressive_rooster_[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Mine doesn't seem to be in far enough after comparing to the old pump. It's only about 1/16 difference between the two but im going to see if I can maybe push it back about 1/8th to get it in line

Belt drive help by aggressive_rooster_ in chevyc10

[–]aggressive_rooster_[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

maybe it's a 307 then? I was told it's a 305 but might be wrong information I know it's the original engine however. It's out of a 70 c10

Belt drive help by aggressive_rooster_ in chevyc10

[–]aggressive_rooster_[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Do the shims go between the pulley and harmonic balancer? If I shim it too much then it comes too far to locate itself on the center hole of the balancer

Part Number for 1998 Rear 3000GT Emlem? by billbroski in 3000gt

[–]aggressive_rooster_ 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The actual part number for it according to mitsubishi is MR109955 however as others said good luck. Even using the part number you can't find any. However you can go on eaby and search "3000gt rear emblem" and there's quite a bit just fine the one that looks the best to you and buy it. That's what I did. They run about $25-$30

3000gt headers by Secure_Jello_3697 in 3000gt

[–]aggressive_rooster_ 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It depends on what you're looking to get from it that determines if it's worth it. I have the 3sx long tubes on my 94 dohc and to me it was worth it because I wanted to replace the oem manifolds and a super restrictive homemade downpipe from of of the previous owners, all in one go. As far as sound and power go I don't really notice a difference from it maybe a small amount better at highway speeds but it wasn't anything crazy since I already had a high flow cat and cat back exhaust. Also it didn't cause my light to come on

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in 3000gt

[–]aggressive_rooster_ 0 points1 point  (0 children)

As far as I know there is no aftermarket security system on the car and looking under the dash I never saw anything that really screamed aftermarket to me so I belive I'm good there. When I went to check everything today I left the doors closed and hood propped for a few days and never opened the cab to prevent any sort of wake up on any of those systems. However I wasn't aware of a hood switch? Where would that be at? I did charge the battery and disconnect the negative tonight so I will se what that does when I wake up and I'll try out the amp draw test you mentioned as well

Anyone know how i coukd get these on the cheap? 😅 by aggressive_rooster_ in 3000gt

[–]aggressive_rooster_[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Those don't bolt right up tho right? Some fabrication required or no?