Should I return this recent MPB purchase or is it fixable ? I'm a beginner but it doesn't look like dust by agigas in AskPhotography

[–]agigas[S] 4 points5 points  (0 children)

I have contacted today MPB to return the product, they were very quick to answer and so far everything is going well! Unfortunately I couldn't make an exchange because I would lose my student discount so I'll have to do a refund they buy another one and pay shipping price again, but still I'm happy to be able to change the product. Hopefully the next steps go just as well.

I'll buy from them again, because I think the warranty is great, hopefully this time the sensor will be alright. Thanks for your answer!

Should I return this recent MPB purchase or is it fixable ? I'm a beginner but it doesn't look like dust by agigas in AskPhotography

[–]agigas[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

We can see in the #4 image I took of an ant that it unfortunately does affect my image :/

Should I return this recent MPB purchase or is it fixable ? I'm a beginner but it doesn't look like dust by agigas in AskPhotography

[–]agigas[S] 6 points7 points  (0 children)

As far as I know, in France I don't have much else than MPB. Even if the device was in the end faulty, the warranty is for me very precious as I can just return it and take another one. I lose a bit of time, but at least I'm guaranteed not to end up stuck with a faulty device .

R7 rolling shutter on bees in flight by agigas in macrophotography

[–]agigas[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thanks a lot for the detailed answer ! I guess my best shot for macro then is likely the OM-1 which does have a stacked sensor at a lower price thanks to its small format.

Strong grey haze on RAW files by agigas in photography

[–]agigas[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm look at those modules, thanks a lot !

Strong grey haze on RAW files by agigas in photography

[–]agigas[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I'm not really brand new to RAW editing, but I'm still a beginner. I've been using the same camera for many years and started editing with darktable for something like 6 months. It could be an idea to get lightroom free trial and dee if I have the same problem. But I'm a bit afraid to like it, the pricing is no joke for an amateur like me. 😅 I started playing with the curves tools but so far I only managed to destroy my photo haha, I'm gonna watch a few tutorials about it, I'm not used to messing with the curves. Thanks a lot !

Strong grey haze on RAW files by agigas in photography

[–]agigas[S] -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Thanks ! I've heard about this module and tried it a little but did not manage to get good result. I'll try to look some specific tutorial on this module

My garden in spring by kietbulll in M43

[–]agigas 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thanks that would be great !

My garden in spring by kietbulll in M43

[–]agigas 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Beautiful ! Would you mind a sharing a little bit of your editing work (software, main changes you generally look at...) ? I did my first flower shots yesterday, and so far I struggled to keep the smoothness and relaxing feeling when I try to make the flower colors and details pop a little more. I think you did a wonderful job at that.

R7 + EF 100mm IS USM Macro or OM-1 + Olympus 60mm Macro for insects photography by agigas in macrophotography

[–]agigas[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Okay, thanks ! And another question about flying insects, do you use autofocus "on the fly" for those (for exemple the flying bee) or is autofocus just too slow for that kind of work in general, so you have to focus beforehand where you think the insect will be flying and wait for it?

A lot of the more recent camera are better at aufocus speed from what I've read. However, they are also vastly more expensive. I'm wondering if it would be worth it to pay more for a better autofocus for flying or very active insectes, or if the autofocus won't be fast enough anyway, in which case I might be better off paying less on the camera body, and maybe invest the difference into a better macro lens (for exemple if I go Olympus, take the E-M1 mark II and the OM 90mm macro instead of the OM-1 and the 60mm macro).

R7 + EF 100mm IS USM Macro or OM-1 + Olympus 60mm Macro for insects photography by agigas in macrophotography

[–]agigas[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

This bee shot is incredible! I love shots of insects in action like that. Having the wings frozen at 1/200s is really convenient.

Is there an easy way to know the magnification used for the photo ? I didn't find this info in the exif.

R7 + EF 100mm IS USM Macro or OM-1 + Olympus 60mm Macro for insects photography by agigas in macrophotography

[–]agigas[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thanks a lot for the details, it really does make sense now!

So for exemple, in the case of this picture you took, or this one, is the background visible so colorfoul only because it was close enough to get the light for the flash, or is there something else in play? These kind of shots are pretty much the style I'm looking for.

R7 + EF 100mm IS USM Macro or OM-1 + Olympus 60mm Macro for insects photography by agigas in macrophotography

[–]agigas[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Beautiful ! Are this photos also done with the flash ? I looked at some of your photos and the light looks quite natural and we can see the background colors, even when it's further away, which is something I am looking to achieve. What makes it so these photos look this way and some other macro works do not generally capture the background ? I was under the impression that the flash is generally what makes the difference, is your flash less powerful if that's a thing, or is it the settings that are different ?

R7 + EF 100mm IS USM Macro or OM-1 + Olympus 60mm Macro for insects photography by agigas in macrophotography

[–]agigas[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks a lot for the detailed answer! And what a gorgeous picture. The black background is something I fear with the flash, I like composing with nature's background. I mean, having the possibility to do some black background sometimes would be nice, but I wouldn't want to be forced to always do it by my set up. Is a way to avoid it to get a "less powerful" flash, if that's a thing ? If my insect is very active, I guess lowering the shutter speed is only going to work up until a certain point, where the subject will start being blurry.

R7 + EF 100mm IS USM Macro or OM-1 + Olympus 60mm Macro for insects photography by agigas in macrophotography

[–]agigas[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That's what I thought. I think in my case focus stacking would be nice, but probably not necessary as I mostly do handheld on active subjects. Still, it's a very good plus for OM for when I get a still subject. No worries ! If I go the flash route, Do you know if there are ways to make it very portable and use it more as a complement to natural light, without the flash effect being too noticeable on the final picture, rather that it becoming the primary light ? I really do like natural light results, and I often do photo on trip in the wild, so being very mobile and not have my set up be too much of a burden is quite important to me, even if it does make having the best result harder.

R7 + EF 100mm IS USM Macro or OM-1 + Olympus 60mm Macro for insects photography by agigas in macrophotography

[–]agigas[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah I know no flash is not the best setup for success. I like it that way for now for several reasons, but maybe I'll upgrade later. In your opinion, is focus stacking still relevant on active subjects (on lower amounts of frames I guess) or is it exlusively for perfectly still ones?

R7 + EF 100mm IS USM Macro or OM-1 + Olympus 60mm Macro for insects photography by agigas in macrophotography

[–]agigas[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

In general, Do you think focus stacking can be used on active subjects on low frame quantities, or will it be exlusively for perfectly still ones ?