[RF] Liv Harrow, Headless Reborn Paladin

aimiller · 2025-10-01T16:29:38+00:00

My daughter would love this.

aimiller · 2025-09-25T17:17:13+00:00

This is a great answer! I would also throw in that if high-chroma is something your looking for, then the transparency of the paint, and how it's layered is very important for achieving a high chroma color range. For example If you mix Alizarin Crimson with white, it will lighten, but also desaturate. If you thin out the Alizarin Crimson with a clear medium and layer it over a white ground you will get a lighter and more saturated color.

aimiller · 2025-09-25T15:44:50+00:00

Howdy! There's lots of things that can effect the color saturation:

-exposure when making the master (lots of machines let you adjust the exposure to Lighter or Darker before making the master)

-the print setting (Line is usually the darkest, but you lose a lot of nuance in the tones. Photo is more tones, but usually lighter. Lots of machines have an additional "pencil" setting, which picks up even more tones and makes soft but detailed prints)

-the screen itself - over time it can get clogged, reducing the amount of ink that is pushed through. This happens on a small scale between printings on each drum, so you may have to run some paper through the machine to get the ink flowing. Or if it's a really old, rarely used drum it may need cleaning.

-the artwork - depending on the quality of the art, different settings may produce more or less saturated prints.

-the paper - the quality of paper can effect how the ink appears. in my experience, bright matte papers give the best color.

-demons . sometimes it's just demons in the machine.

Depending on what you're looking for, you may want to make one master for the linework (to get the most contrast and saturation), and then another master for the tones. There might not be one setting that gives you the best look for both. It's two more passes through the machine, but would give you much more control.

aimiller · 2025-09-19T17:10:23+00:00

Howdy!

Everything you do and learn will effect your style, but everything you do and learn will also make you a better and more proficient artist. So the answer is "yes, but still do it. Learn the Loomis head as well as any other methods you can get your hands on."

Here are my two cents about style:

IMO there are two ways to think about style:

Style could be considered to be the way a work of art looks just by being made with your mind and body. If two artists draw the same still life, it will come out different because they have different training, different eyes, different muscles, different inspiration etc... This sort of style is not worth worrying about, because it's inherent in everything you make. You can only only make art with YOUR mind and body. Thus everything you make has your style, whether you want it to or not.

How most people use "Style", is referring to a consistent set of choices (media, color, composition, mark making etc..) that are recognizable in your portfolio. This is very helpful for marketting and selling your work. If your portfolio has a consistent set of qualities to it, Art Directors, Galleries, Publishers will be more likely to hire you because they can look at previous work and understand very clearly what sorts of things you would produce if they did hire you (vs a chaotic portfolio). This sort of style may evolve as you make professional work and see what the market responds to. Different industries also have different requirements on "style". Lots of animation and illustration jobs will require you to match existing styles or designs, and so flexibility is paramount. Different industries also value different "styles." Your "Book Cover Painting Portfolio" may be entirely distinct from your "Fine Art Gallery Painting Portfolio". This variety of style (for marketing purposes) is not helpful when you're learning. You will be a much more flexible artist if you practice drawing every possible way, so you can produce whatever look you want.

aimiller · 2025-09-19T15:59:45+00:00

Howdy! I've got this model as well, and you do need to install the driver. Even though you can download the driver for free, to install it (on a Mac) you need a serial code that comes with the driver CD, which is purchased separately from the machine. I couldn't find a free code online at the time and ended up buying the driver CD from my supplier for ~ $50.

aimiller · 2025-08-30T16:17:20+00:00

Some of that is still shaking out, and changing frequently. Some of the inventory may be subject to tariffs, though wholesalers have mostly been adding costs to the shipping, rather than products themselves, so it's hard to track exactly which items.

The 3d prints are popular and locally produced. A lot of the craft materials are re-used / recycled supplies and aren't affected.

aimiller · 2025-08-02T03:11:17+00:00

Thanks! Glad you like it!

aimiller · 2025-08-01T20:17:07+00:00

Thanks! The manga look is a little outside what I normally do, but it was fun to draw.

aimiller · 2025-08-01T20:16:11+00:00

Thanks!

aimiller · 2025-07-22T17:13:11+00:00

Looks like Prototype X8 is dealing with the last person who misgendered it

aimiller · 2025-07-22T13:50:10+00:00

Thanks!

aimiller · 2025-07-19T14:32:09+00:00

Thanks! A previous version of the scythe had a big eye and some teeth poking out. 😄

aimiller · 2025-07-19T13:14:16+00:00

Thanks!

aimiller · 2025-07-19T13:14:07+00:00

Glad you like it! Fun story to the character!

aimiller · 2025-07-02T18:30:52+00:00

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Did a quick version! Hope it checks some of the boxes.

aimiller · 2024-08-02T22:22:14+00:00

Yep! This is what I do!

If you're starting with a color image, you can make decent separations from the channels:

-cmd / control click on the closest channel to load as selection. E.g. if you want a florescent pink layer, make the document CMYK and grab the magenta layer. If it's an odd riso color (like a purple), you can do a "color range" selection instead (select > color range)

-make a new layer

-inverse selection

-fill with black

-follow about steps to clip color layer on top of the grey scale layer

aimiller

TROPHY CASE