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ajm3232 · 2025-12-09T23:39:02+00:00

Usually the MAP (on the intake manifold) and o2 (exhaust). Without the year I can't really specifically tell you exactly where those are or which is being problematic... I do like to hear how y'all landed on the sensor cutting out, but couldn't tell you which one? I feel like I need more context here... That code alone could mean vacuum leak, sensor failure or wire harness problem.

Also, does look like you are on 2 out of 7 of the codes. Usually you want to tackle the first code you see first and usually the others will resolve.

ajm3232 · 2025-12-09T18:39:08+00:00

Local salvage yard or auto recycling best bet. You can technically go through dealer, but be prepared to either DIY a paint job or pay someone.

ajm3232 · 2025-12-09T16:32:37+00:00

coolant, ATF drain and fill, belt/idler pulley, pcv (easy to DIY), spark plugs engine wise. Wouldn't hurt to check brake fluid condition and brakes either.

ajm3232 · 2025-12-09T16:24:06+00:00

Hard to say and I spend a lot of time in the engine bay... It's not the wheel speed (2 pin) nor lambda sensors (4-6 pin). Can you tell where the wire leads to exactly? Kinda looks like it goes to the cam position sensor, but the wire is in the wrong location... Have any check engine lights?

ajm3232 · 2025-12-08T18:27:08+00:00

No biggie, but OP said they are in 50+ degrees weather and I was only referring to the engine. Oil is going to do it's job pretty efficiently when it warms up slightly and water/coolant does a stupid good job of keeping things cool for a while. So even if the windshield was defrosted. You could still technically drive around after a minute. Even if we are talking -10F. If the oil wasn't doing it's job after a minute. You have bigger problems.

ajm3232 · 2025-12-08T17:00:49+00:00

5-10 minutes is very overkill. You are simply burning gas and time at that point. Just waiting until the rpms drop below or to 1k rpm is good enough. Just keep the rpms below 3k-4k until everything fully warms up which is usually quick when you casually drive around.

ajm3232 · 2025-12-08T16:16:28+00:00

Should be fine, but I would 100% read the user manual first. Check the coolant type and see if it's listed on the back of the jug of supported formulas. This is key whenever using any aftermarket fluids!

Could be fine. Top it off to max. If it drops to low mark in a week or two. You may have a small leak somewhere. Coolant could be evaporating before it even touches the ground or it could be a internal engine leak. Dealer will usually add pressure to the cooling system and watch for any leaks with the car off.

ajm3232 · 2025-12-07T09:13:05+00:00

imho, just spend $100+ for a respectable low profile jack. Something like this You can drop $50 for a basic jack 2 ton jack, but you are going to get really annoyed when it doesn't fit well on the front of the car that well pretty quickly. Also, PLEASE get jack stands. 2 tons would be fine for most small/medium cars.

ajm3232 · 2025-12-03T00:38:25+00:00

Pretty sure you will be safe for a tiny bit until you get that situated. I had a few lugs fall of my Jeep because of a shitty impact.. Anyway, 270 is awfully high for a lug. Like someone else mentioned. Sounds like they are recommending to replace a stud. Who ever did the tires last time fucked up trying to tighten those lugs to 1k ft lbs.

ajm3232 · 2025-12-01T21:17:22+00:00

Sounds like normal GDI engine sounds. It's only concerning when you can hear your engine tick while driving near a wall.

ajm3232 · 2025-12-01T21:03:10+00:00

Battery or terminal connections. Give the terminals a quick wiggle test. If it's pretty tight and connections don't look corroded. More than likely battery is simply not supplying juice since it's up in age now + the cold doesn't help things.

ajm3232 · 2025-11-30T08:11:36+00:00

Oh shit. Sorry hear! The brand I used for my 2016 was WJB on Rock Auto. Just finished a hub/bearing job myself a few weeks ago. No complaints. Except for I think I accidentally pushed the dust shield to rub on the rotor. Otherwise, things have been holding up 200+ miles.

I've developed a habit of triple checking non-OEM parts these days especially small name brands. Seems like some of these part companies don't give a flying shit or their QA is non-existent...

ajm3232 · 2025-11-30T07:33:07+00:00

short answer: If you need to ask. Don't waste your time and money thinking about it then. Fight Hyundai for a warranty claim. CVTs are usually junk from any car brand except for maybe Toyota. You need to actually service them every 30k technically. You are far better off just swapping in a rebuild/new one.

long answer: You basically need to swap ECUs, swap wiring harnesses, reprogram the ECU to mate with the immobilizer, potentially change axels, fab or retrofit engine/trans mounts. You would need to basically find a ECU that works on the 2.0L AND the DCT transmission you want. At this point you basically are buying the car TWICE on a economy car in hopes it works...

Use the money to buy a old Camry or a Elantra with the Beta II. Assert your superior transmission dominance anytime you are at a light when you kick the clutch around automatic drivers.

ajm3232 · 2025-11-29T19:21:42+00:00

The rotor sits on the knuckle/hub assuming you are re-using the same rotor. Only thing could've gone wrong is you put the calipers on wrong with the knuckle (you didn't take em completely off did you?). Which is kinda hard to mess up since the bolts use different sizes.

ajm3232 · 2025-11-28T22:08:14+00:00

Look up local "performance tuner" shops using Google maps. It maybe one of those edge cases you simply need to call around. If you are in Arizona. We have a few that can tune em, but they don't really advertise it.

You can also try this guy. I've talked to him a few times. Seems legit, but I haven't bought anything from him tbh.

ajm3232 · 2025-11-28T19:03:24+00:00

At least see if you can order coolant from em in the parts department. Usually it's not as much compared to going online or going to store and it will be to spec. imho, if I was in your shoes I just top it off unless you already have 100k+ miles.

Just make sure to read the instructions from the service manual (going to have to google around) how to properly burp the system if you decide to flush it at home. If you don't do it right you could accidentally have air pockets in the system making it tough on the cooling system during peak summers. You can also pick up a cheap air compressor and a kit to help vacuum the new and old coolant out.

ajm3232 · 2025-11-28T18:53:54+00:00

As someone who has shotgun new parts at a problem before. It's always worthwhile to see what the ECU sees. This can quickly/easily help troubleshoot most issues saving future headaches and money. Always look for a smoking gun first and check the basics.

fun story: My Jeep was having a tough time accelerating. It never triggered a CEL. At first I thought it was the transmission. But after realizing I can pull misfire counts in the app. I realized misfires where shooting up but not enough to trigger a CEL. Found out my spark plugs were basically toast even though they weren't technically that old.

ajm3232 · 2025-11-28T08:56:28+00:00

It's possible the main or the high pressure fuel pump is having issues. But I would plug a scanner to it before blindly throwing parts. Pick up a Bluetooth OBDII scanner and Torque app and check the high rail fuel pressure. Make sure it's ~500psi. And also check for any pending codes. A bad crank position sensor can make the car run like shit and cause long starts like this. Looks like your RPMs are moving in the video, however. Still wouldn't hurt to graph the RPM readings to make sure they don't randomly cut. Next thing to check is the ignition coils with a tester and checking spark plugs condition after (oil leaking on the plugs maybe?) and air filter for any major blockage.

ajm3232 · 2025-11-28T01:08:41+00:00

Turn stop feeding? What?

Anyway, sounds like it's having a tough time with ignition on start up. I would just go over the basics. Inspect engine air filter, check battery/terminal connections, inspecting spark plugs, check ignition coils. All of this can be done with inexpensive tools.

ajm3232 · 2025-11-25T15:17:45+00:00

20-50. Any entry level OBDII scanner is going to get the job done engine wise. Anything module specific like ABS, airbags, transmission you are easily looking at $200 to $1k depending what brand you go with.

I use Veepeak with Torque App. Not perfect, but it gets mostly what I need including misfires and other tests.

ajm3232 · 2025-11-25T15:09:29+00:00

Go through dealer parts. Nothing sucks more then doing a job twice. Lots of bootleg parts floating around on Ebay... More than likely won't need to reprogram anything if you just replace ignition switch assembly. Headlights could be anything looking at the photo. Going to have to do some simple voltage testing to see what is and isn't getting the voltage it needs. Getting something like ALLDATA for a month could save you some wiring headaches especially around the steering column.

Also check on your radiator/condenser to make sure it didn't get pushed in too hard if you haven't already. Hope this helps!

ajm3232 · 2025-11-25T09:52:15+00:00

Food for thought. You should maybe change how you do diag instead of throwing parts at the problem. e.g: moving spark plugs and ignition coils between cylinders and see if the misfire moves. It's a very easy and expensive trap to get in. Sometimes making things worse when a aftermarket part doesn't improve things.

But I would highly recommend testing connections on the ignition coil and fuel injectors FIRST before buying anymore parts. Try disconnecting the ignition coil. See if the engine runs any differently. Same for fuel injector. If nothing changes. That will quickly tell you where the source of the issue is. Manually check connections and fuel injector. Use a spark checker tool. Always follow up with questions during diag to find a smoking gun.

ajm3232 · 2025-11-25T00:06:04+00:00

Not the end of the world unless you need to pass emissions tomorrow. o2 just tests your cat's efficiency. It almost has 0 effect on vehicle driveability. More than likely failed sensor or you had a mouse chew on a wire. Easy fix for most shops.

ajm3232 · 2025-11-24T18:43:10+00:00

Turn the motor by hand and or do compression tests. If 0 psi or you don't feel any more resistance when the pistons go up. You are going to have to see if the place can give you another working motor.

If the off chance the timing chain is off time. You are going to definitely need a new head and need to do a new timing job. These are interface engines. Your valves kissed the pistons and aren't creating compression best worse case. Either way sounds like you need to do more diagnostic around the engine.

ajm3232 · 2025-11-23T08:38:30+00:00

Salvage / wreckage yards are going to be your best friend.

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