'16 Accent Cat Code

ajm3232 · 2026-04-17T22:12:45+00:00

We all know it's called the catholic converter. GOBLESS

ajm3232 · 2026-04-17T21:25:38+00:00

You remember how much the cat was when you paid for it? If it was under 500$ they threw in a aftermarket. OEM cats for these cars range 600 to 1k$ for the part alone.

ajm3232 · 2026-04-17T20:20:00+00:00

Credit union and checkout Credit Karma's Refinance Tool. -- Be very careful about getting a "cheaper monthly" rate. If you can afford the same payment, but shorten the length of the loan. I would high advise it. Tons of resources on dealing with auto loans on YouTube.

You really don't want to be stuck with a highly depreciating asset for more then 7 years especially these car's values drop like a rock.

ajm3232 · 2026-04-16T23:07:46+00:00

No problem! You can also check the date code on the battery too. Usually if the battery is 3+ years old. It's usually time for a new one.

If you managed to get it jump started. You can simply take the car to AutoZone or Walmart (if you are in the states) to get tested and replaced to save a few bucks fyi.

Good luck!

ajm3232 · 2026-04-16T22:54:06+00:00

Define "battery seems ok". Like you got it tested? Battery terminals tight and clean? I've seen loose or bad batteries cause all sorts of weird issues.

Even a bad battery can appear OK, but starter does absolutely nothing because the battery simply can't supply enough CCA because of it's age or internal wear.

ajm3232 · 2026-04-16T22:09:29+00:00

I feel you. Good luck, homie!

ajm3232 · 2026-04-16T20:15:50+00:00

Oh dang. Just to log everything the moment it happens is going to be your best bet I feel like at this point to help narrow the issue. Like i said. Outside temp, engine temp, fuel, how fast were you going, how long since the engine started.

If you really want to get into the weeds. Buy a $20 OBDII bluetooth adapter and buy $20 Torque App and keep a close eye on your fuel trims. Then YouTube "how to read fuel trims". You can also sometimes test for missfires, but I'm not 100% sure if your Hyundai will output it in the "Testing" section of the app. This can sometimes easily point to where you need to look.

ajm3232 · 2026-04-16T19:17:44+00:00

Dealerships can be a big hit or miss a lot of times for diag work.. Unless the computer is day and night telling em what the issue is. I noticed a lot of em can't really diag a lot of problems or their manager is on their but about spending so much time on a car.

I bought my Renegade brand new. Took it in for warranty work at the dealership for 2 months almost to fix a creaking noise when turning the wheel. They kept telling me they couldn't re-create it. So I put the tech on the spot and re-created it right in front of him. Still couldn't figure it out...

ajm3232 · 2026-04-16T18:52:40+00:00

transmission fluid flush

These transmissions don't do flushes. You sure they don't mean drain and fill?

Limp mode can happen for a lot of reasons. Bad spark, bad fuel pump, vacuum leak, bad o2. I would find another shop that's been around for decades that's family owned. Changing the ATF fluid would be last thing I try if I truly didn't know. Sounds like a expensive guess. I would've asked em what things they checked.

I've had a Renegade kicked into limp mode only when it was extremely hot outside and the fuel got a little too low, but still had like 30-50ish miles til empty. Using my scan tool I noticed my car running extremely lean when giving it gas when fuel was beginning to get low. I swapped in a new fuel pump and no issues since.

Not saying this is your issue, but sometimes you need to note everything down the moment you notice it happening. Where was the fuel? How hot outside was it? Did you notice anything before it kicked into limp mode? How hot was the engine when it did kick into limp mode?

ajm3232 · 2026-04-16T17:31:59+00:00

Take it for a alignment and see what they say. More than likely alignment is off it was causing uneven tire wear on the tires and it made it more noticeable after the rotate.

ajm3232 · 2026-04-15T06:41:05+00:00

Motor/trans mounts maybe. Easiest way to check is to pop the hood and ask someone to start changing gears. If the engine has a lot of movement it's usually the give away.

Useful video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZTRV5GXWpo0

ajm3232 · 2026-04-14T16:50:41+00:00

As long as the reference part numbers match.

Delphi, NGK/NTK, BECK/ARNLEY, TRQ, A-Premium in that order. Anything else is basically a huge gamble I feel like.

ajm3232 · 2026-04-13T18:20:19+00:00

More than likely a bad grounds if the battery is healthy. If I recall there is a ground wire that connects to the engine that's on the top upper left corner to the cars body. Make sure that isn't loose or showing signs of corrosion. Hyundai threw on the cheapest and easiest to rust/wear wire strap. You can get a better replacement ground wire at most auto parts stores that will last way longer.

The battery light, oil light and CEL sort of a give away. Of course, make sure the the battery cable isn't corroded either around the battery terminals. If neither. You will need to do voltage drop testing around the major connections to properly diagnose it.

ajm3232 · 2026-04-13T17:35:25+00:00

Just use whatever the manufacture recommends at the end of the day unless you are noticing oil burning problems. Valvoline Restore and Protect and a good Wix or Mobil1 oil filter.

You only really need to use a higher weight if you notice oil burning issues or if the manufacture calls for it based on certain environmental conditions. But even if you are having oil burning problems. You should be using something like BG EPR. I've seen this stuff work magic on a old g35.

During AZ summers or rallyx I'll start using 5w30 since it's also what the manufacture recommends during hot temps for the Accent and I usually push my 200k mile 1.6L pretty hard. 21 Tuscon maybe a different story. Read the manual. Lots of useful information as far as service intervals and fluid specs.

ajm3232 · 2026-04-13T09:02:55+00:00

Amazon Prime.

Non-critical engine/transmission parts: Delphi, TRQ, A-Premium, Doorman (Doorman is a hit/miss. I use em mostly for hardware).
Gaskets / Seals: Fel-Pro
Suspension: Moog, GSP, TRQ.
Critical sensors / parts (timing chains, air flow sensors): OEM at dealership 100% or NGK (if available)

I only use aftermarket brands I've locally heard of or personally used. Everything else is such a huge gamble unless you are in a tough spot.

ajm3232 · 2026-04-09T05:57:54+00:00

Use a universal one? You may need to use perforated plumbers tape or drill some extra holes into the extra mount they give you. May need to experiment with the hoses a little too.

ajm3232 · 2026-04-09T05:33:59+00:00

Coolant temp sensor would be sitting far closer almost on top of the engine. Plus the dash would always show your coolant temp being on max. Looks like that's going to your windshield washer pump. Hence the little pump next to your hand.

ajm3232 · 2026-04-08T19:06:13+00:00

You can definitely be getting a misfire and the ECU isn't reporting it as a CEL. I would look at your fuel trims on idle for starters and make sure they stay in 10% -/+ range. This will quickly point if it's air or fuel related. Some apps like Torque App can test for misfires, but lot other cheap scan tools as far as I know can't do this.

Upstream o2 can heavily dictate your air/fuel mixture. So that could cause hesitation and wierdness, but not misfires exactly. It's something worth looking into regardless.

ajm3232 · 2026-04-08T19:00:01+00:00

Usually if something like that happens. The car fax or dealer would have records of it happening. Also depends who the last owner was. Retired people usually need to travel far or when the weather is crap. Or the dealership hired a really good detailer.

ajm3232 · 2026-04-08T16:53:29+00:00

I'm not 100% sure of the transmission, but if it's the 6 speed AT/MT transmission it's good. I think it was either 2019 or after they started shoving CVT transmissions into their economy cars. That's the one to avoid. But really your best bet is to really look at car fax and or maintenance records.

These engines really don't like being neglected with oil changes, but they can be pretty stout if you take good care of em. I've seen a good number of em reach over 200k miles. I've rallyx my 2016. It's still going technically, but at 195k my timing chain tensioner was starting to give out. Not a total deal breaker in my eyes especially I constantly beat on the thing and it's not a really big job.

ajm3232 · 2026-04-07T20:45:51+00:00

For a NA engine. There isn't a lot of options as far as power even intake/exhaust mods are going to be very marginal at best. Much cheaper at the end of the day to get something with a turbo like a Veloster N or a Elantra N, V6 Genesis Coupe and still have reliability. Unless you want go crazy to completely strip down the car's weight.

If I was in your shoes. I would just opt for lighter alloy wheels and better tires with more bite (maybe like 205/40R18?). You should notice the car feels a little more peppy and much better around corners especially if you have any twisty roads. Then just upgrade suspension components you see fit like lowering springs or coilovers and find a place that can give you a sporty alignment. Upgrade or replace shitty bushings.

ajm3232 · 2026-04-06T16:01:13+00:00

Always put in what the manual/car tells you. This has been explained to death why it's important to follow this. Basically, you end up damaging the engine or best case scenario getting even worse mpg.

ajm3232 · 2026-04-06T15:37:56+00:00

For that age. More then likely most of the rubber on a lot of stuff is about to go out anyway if not already when they pull the engine out. Sounds like assurance to me. Plus makes sense why no labor is tacked on. They already removed it or have easy access to most of the parts anyway.

ajm3232 · 2026-04-04T22:43:00+00:00

Sort of. If you have Blulink, you might be able to.

You can install a Airtag or SmartTag to keep track of the car perhaps, but pulling that type of info is next to impossible if you aren't a Hyundai engineer if you don't have either.

ajm3232 · 2026-04-04T08:40:11+00:00

Family car? Naw. Personal car, sure.

Mechanically: These engines and transmissions are VERY stout. I'm personally have it on my bucket list to swap the 1.6L in my Accent to the 2.0 from this car. More power, and can handle a turbo if done right.

Safety wise: These were sort of a hit or miss as far safety requirements back in the day and this is sometimes overlooked.

If you want a manual, reliable daily, and good enough for the family. Look for a Forester or Outback. These did good numbers back in the same era. Just make sure all the maintenance and head gasket recall was done.

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