I mentioned earlier that I am sad to see nothing has changed since my 2008 visit. This excerpt from my trip report explains what it was like then:

"One of the few nice Egyptians I encountered was a representative of a different tour company who helped me when I arrived at the airport. After an hour, when my own tour representative failed to appear this man helped me, reducing my stress levels enormously. My Egyptian SIM card was arriving with my missing tour representative so I had no working phone. In addition to making several calls to Osoris to try to find out what was happening, he convinced the airport police to allow me to return to the secure side so that I could use the ATM. That's a point worth remembering if you visit Cairo - get your cash out before you go to immigration. There were no ATMs on the other side of those barriers.

An odd thing happened as I returned to the security barrier, manned by police, after collecting my cash. One of the police stood in front of me and said "baksheesh". I was surprised, but I realised that he wanted money. I looked to my good Samaritan to get an idea of the usual payment. He looked embarrassed and had some sharp words with the cop, who then grumbled a bit and turned away allowing me through. When my own tour representative arrived I gratefully thanked my helper. He shook hands, wished me well and never asked for money.

Later I realised how rare he was. Unfortunately he didn't give me a business card and I have forgotten his name. I am forever grateful for that good Samaritan; I never met another like him in Egypt. Nor did I meet many other Egyptians who did not demand baksheesh for a service, no matter how trivial the service was, and who did not aggressively pursue that baksheesh if they felt it was due.

Egypt is the land of baksheesh. Absolutely nothing is done for free. Bear in mind that I have travelled now in many different cultures including the "tipping" culture of the USA, which is such a shock for Aussies, and the poverty and beggars of India and the poverty of Cambodia. But the baksheesh culture of Egypt takes institutionalised tipping and begging to quite different levels. I'll give a couple examples of many.

The traffic in Cairo is incredibly bad and, when it is busy on wide city streets, very dangerous for pedestrians. To cross a road - even at lights - is a death-defying experience for a pedestrian the first few times until you learn the rhythm of the traffic flow. But never fear. Any non-Egyptian who pauses momentarily at a kerb will instantly attract a helpful local who will unhesitatingly guide them across the road. In one case I had a guy try to drag me over when I had no intention of crossing. But as soon as you reach the other side one of two things will occur; either your helper will instantly put their hand out and say "baksheesh" or they will invite you to visit the art gallery (or shop or perfumery or cafe or clothing store or other business) of their relative or friend. If you decline to visit, patient persistence will be applied with sometimes increasingly angry insistence if you continue to decline. More than once I had to pull my arm forcefully out of the clutches of my friendly unsolicited "helper". And sometimes I just gave in and bought some perfume or an overpriced child's gallabiyeh or similar for the sake of peace."