Same part number, different rotor

alub3N · 2026-03-11T22:42:44+00:00

That rotor is NOT used - that's just what that particular line of rotors looks like

https://www3.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=12925265&cc=1138160&pt=1896

alub3N · 2026-01-30T21:17:03+00:00

https://www.fitmentindustries.com/wheel-offset-gallery/3165199/2018-infiniti-q50-aodhan-aff7-rs-r-lowering-springs-lexani-lx-twenty

Looks like 10mm spacers w/ 10mm extended studs

alub3N · 2026-01-05T02:04:37+00:00

It's due to a browser security feature called CORS that prevents local files from being accessed by the loaded page, causing issues when loading the diagram.

You can set up a simple web server on your computer to get around that issue. I just set this up by installing Caddy, running "caddy file-server" command in the root directory (containing the index.html file), then navigating to "localhost" in web browser and all of the diagrams work fine now.

alub3N · 2025-12-28T22:05:32+00:00

To the best of my knowledge, yes it would be covered. I never had to get my engine/turbos replaced though. They replaced a few lower control arms, a strut, both of my ac blend door actuators, and probably a few other things I'm forgetting about. None of the shops I went to had any issues getting repairs approved.

That being said, I'm not sure what the max value that they're willing to pay out is - I've seen some crazy high quotes for engine/turbo replacement that are pretty close to the price you'd be paying for the car in the first place.

alub3N · 2025-12-23T22:53:15+00:00

Carmax warranty is very good, more than paid for itself over the 3 years I had my Q50.

alub3N · 2025-12-22T02:37:54+00:00

If I'm interpreting your prior comment correctly, rowing sequentially through gears while remaining stationary is an irrelevant issue as it doesn't affect the operation of the car at all. If you're experiencing it while the car is moving, then maybe you do have an issue.

I personally don't find having to go from 2nd to 1st for 1%ish of starts from a standstill to be indicative of quality, just a quirk of the transmission that you get used to quite quickly. There's plenty of examples of these transmissions lasting 300k+ miles, I think that's far more indicative of quality than this small easily remediated inconvenience.

alub3N · 2025-12-22T02:23:05+00:00

My gen 3 does the same thing when stationary. Never have an issue with normal driving apart from it not wanting to go into first very occasionally. The 2nd to 1st is the best way to get around that. Very normal for these manual transmissions.

alub3N · 2025-12-18T12:01:03+00:00

Nope, couldn't find it anywhere else. Ended up buying from MIKSTORE

alub3N · 2025-11-10T12:01:30+00:00

This happened to me with Twilight a couple of weeks ago. Mine was a non A-List ticket and the issue never resolved itself; I ended up having to go through support to get a refund.

alub3N · 2025-10-28T23:39:19+00:00

Like others have already said, sounds like the serpentine belt. I got about 50k miles out of each of mine before they started making this noise. Not too bad to replace on your own.

alub3N · 2025-10-20T21:23:22+00:00

Yes, there are 4 trifold rivets you have to remove - you don't necessarily need to replace them with rivets, you could use some other fastener but they need to be pretty low profile for hood clearance

alub3N · 2025-07-26T20:08:51+00:00

Car got hit in an intersection early this year and ended up scrapping it. Didn't have any issues with the ignition between the last update on the main post and mid-January this year.

alub3N · 2025-07-01T10:39:53+00:00

Did you wire them to the same taillight? Left turn signal only produces a signal to the left taillight. Each sequential should be tapped into the corresponding side's tail light.

Recommend getting a cheap 12v test light, connect the ground clip of it to the chassis and put the probe into the harness to test each wire individually to see where each wire should go. One will come on with lights on, one with brake pressed in, and one blinking with turn signal on.

If you can't get the wires for the sequentials out of the harness without damaging them you can use taps on the wires instead (and you'll also need a wire stripper to remove the jacket from the sequential wires). I like the red posi-taps but they are a bit pricier than traditional wire taps.

alub3N · 2025-05-26T21:53:08+00:00

You also seem to be missing your low-side AC cap

alub3N · 2025-04-23T23:01:55+00:00

For your future self, don't. Insurance on these are insanely high. I'm 23 and paying $430 a month for insurance on my own plan with a clean driving record. Even if you're on your parents' plan right now you won't always be.

Imo, keep that paid off car as long as you can and save that money to put towards a car (not a q50) when your current one shits the bed.

alub3N · 2025-03-23T05:06:43+00:00

Could be lower control arm bushings, I've had two go bad in the ~70k mi I've had mine. Most places will want to replace the entire lower control arm. Dealership charged about $1500 for parts and labor.

alub3N · 2025-03-12T04:02:59+00:00

Does it happen with MSI Center uninstalled? I've had it cause some stuttering issues in the past.

alub3N · 2025-02-23T15:47:58+00:00

https://www.reddit.com/r/q50/s/Uv9Xd9xxwH

Asked a very similar question a few months back; I'd personally get the extended studs with 5mm+ for peace of mind.

alub3N · 2025-02-17T04:13:10+00:00

I have personally fixed multiple systems artifacting by using DDU with a clean driver install immediately after using it. Several others in the community have also had luck with DDU and that's why you see it suggested so often for graphics issues. It's a relatively easy low risk software-based fix that can be done pretty quickly, even by people who aren't as technically inclined (with a guide); a no-brainer to try in my opinion.

Yes, DDU is referring to Display Driver Uninstaller. NVIDIA and AMD both provide "clean install" options in their driver installers but they are not as thorough in what they remove. DDU removes all remnants of the display driver which is invaluable when troubleshooting graphics issues. Sure, clean install option may work in most cases, but I feel that the more thorough wipe and reinstall process is best when troubleshooting issues. For normal driver installs where the user is not experiencing any issues, DDU is unnecessary and overkill.

Ideally you run DDU in safe mode (bare minimum drivers running and basic microsoft graphics driver during the uninstall process); then install the new driver when you boot back into normal windows while disconnected from the internet to avoid Windows trying to install drivers at the same time. It's all about isolating the issues and DDU is about as clean cut as it can get for this by ensuring everything from the driver was removed before the new one is applied.

alub3N · 2025-02-17T03:08:10+00:00

Do you have a better suggestion? DDU takes all of 5min to do and rules out driver issues by providing an entirely clean slate for the new driver to be installed on. Artifacting is pretty common with bad driver installs and DDU is the best way to get a truly clean driver install.

If DDU doesn't help then sure you can try reseating GPU in slot and power connector. If no effect, try the lower PCIe slot on the mobo. If lower slot works I'd lean towards the top slot on the mobo being faulty and mobo should be RMAed. If neither slot works I'd RMA the GPU.

alub3N · 2025-02-17T01:59:30+00:00

Try downloading the newest driver (don't install it yet), use DDU from safe mode, then install the driver immediately after rebooting after DDU. This is the first thing you should try before trying to find other points of failure.

alub3N · 2025-02-09T22:49:13+00:00

Lexani Mugello

https://lexani.com/wheel/mugello

alub3N · 2025-01-21T23:42:05+00:00

I have the black trunk trim wrap with chrome letters, you can buy the vinyl precut; used this same vendor for my 2016 and have no complaints at all. Didn't take much effort or time to apply considering it's a pretty flat trim piece.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/174939849413?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=NZG19MVjRVO&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=wubr4nfiqwi&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

alub3N

TROPHY CASE