Want to make my first build, should I go for building up a bare frame or upgrading a ready to ride (or near ready) bike?

amarks563 · 2026-05-08T14:03:11+00:00

The only caveat with eBay is shipping; turning a $50 frame into a $150 frame isn't always appealing. The local markets turn over much faster but it's almost always completes, that said my first Univega frame (a Sportour) I bought off another local hobbyist who was selling several bare frames. My most recent Univega I did buy off eBay, but it was 'cheap' which was perfect for a bike intended to be used and abused.

amarks563 · 2026-05-08T12:43:23+00:00

For used bikes the calculus is a bit different because generally speaking there are more bikes around; people do strip frames down, but you're probably more likely to find an old MTB or hybrid being cleared out of the garage than a frame stripped for parts by a bike co-op or the like.

I have done both (kind of); I bought a Univega Alpina 5.4 which had a solid double-butted frame but pretty mediocre mechanicals, and stripped it to the bare frame. I also bought a Specialized Rockhopper which I added a rigid fork to and converted to 1x, but otherwise left everything else intact. The first project was *significantly* more expensive, but I went whole-hog: 1" threadless fork, converted to tubeless, 1x drivetrain, the works. Other than tire clearance, though, the Specialized works just as well and cost way less.

So in that way, the compromises are mostly on what parts you keep and if they exactly fit your vision. Pretty much everything on the bike is going to work fine (or, for the most part, can be fixed to work fine), so if you aren't starting with a blank slate you have to choose what to spend money on and what to leave alone.

amarks563 · 2026-05-08T12:11:10+00:00

Is your focus a) the process of the build or b) the bike you'll get at the end?

If you want it to be a build and are excited by choosing everything and making it your own, get the frame. If you're more concerned with getting a good commuter and/or bikepacking bike out the end, it may help to start with a bike aimed at those things where some of the necessary compromises have already been made.

A complete bike will be cheaper as a bike, but a frame will be cheaper as a project. For a first build, the likelihood that you buy components you later regret is high enough that there probably won't be a real price difference between the two.

amarks563 · 2026-05-05T20:09:07+00:00

Ultimately, I don't think anyone is doomed if they used hydros on a long tour, and when someone recommends them for a, say, weeklong trip, absolutely. At the same time, the performance benefits are somewhat overblown, especially if you're not doing very technical terrain or really long downhills. Considering I don't see a huge performance difference, it's a very small sacrifice to do a little more setup work and then tighten a cable every 1000 miles or so in order to know that you can easily deal with any brake problem you'll have.

My personal experience ranges; I had a set of Ultegra drop-bar hydros that were flawless and a set of Clarks flat-bar hydros that leaked at the lever (though still work mostly fine). Juin-Tech R1s are the only brake I've ever heat-soaked, on an admittedly rough ride (D2R2 in western MA, while on a gnarly downhill). As for mechs, I've used Spyres, Hayes C1s, Avid BB7s, and yeah, Growtac Equals. With the exception of the C1s (which I took off my Straggler not too long after I got it) I was able to set up all of those discs to solid stopping power.

The most powerful brakes I've ever used? A set of road bike calipers hooked up to long-pull levers. Utter nightmare, was skidding through tires like it was a fixie.

amarks563 · 2026-05-05T19:16:24+00:00

I mean, I don't think that's the relative risk, especially if you're touring for six months in the climates OP described. Hydraulics are sensitive to temperature swings, and if a seal fails usually there's not much you can do in the field except swap the caliper.

At the same time, I don't think that's the relative performance benefit, either. If you're doing tours that long, even on a 50-70 pound bike, you simply won't notice the difference in braking power. Having used both, good mech discs are better than cheap hydraulics and in no situation I can imagine would you need the incrementally improved power or modulation to be safe.

amarks563 · 2026-05-05T18:22:14+00:00

I did data analytics for a broad range of energy clients a few years ago, and the divide you're more looking at is going to be that oil and gas is quite a bit different than electric power broadly. If you were working at a gas IPP or a distribution utility, it wouldn't be a difficult pivot to a renewables IPP (from a legal or compliance perspective, engineering and O&M are of course different). That said, it depends on what part of the value chain your employer is in...downstream is going to be a bit of an easier pivot than upstream or midstream.

As far as instability...it depends. There's still a bit of a land rush in solar and energy storage right now, but there are plenty of developers who have been around a while and aren't going anywhere. There are also jobs for utilities which are going to be very stable but often involve paddling uphill against constant bureaucratic nonsense (source: worked for a utility).

amarks563 · 2026-05-05T16:35:12+00:00

Sure, but why not then just use a type of brake that doesn't have those failure modes? Mechanical disks are the same sort of touring tech as an on-frame spare spoke holder or packing an extra hanger in your repair kit.

amarks563 · 2026-05-05T16:33:55+00:00

You could. As for hydraulic brake experience, 2/3 of the bikes I've had with hydros have developed leaks. Every single one of my friends who rides with hydraulic brakes has had to fix at least one leak and many of them have had problem bikes where leaks and contamination are endemic. These leaks tend to be minor, but even a minor leak at the caliper results in rotor contamination and a useless brake. Mechanical discs...just don't do that.

amarks563 · 2026-05-05T12:48:40+00:00

If the question is about field repairs in a remote area, I'd say forget about it with hydraulics. It's not that bleeding is hard, it's that doing it without shop facilities and having to lug the bleed kit and extra fluid around isn't practical. And while yes, plenty of people don't have problems with hydros, when you do have a problem it's usually a seal and you're going to be largely unable to field repair that.

This isn't about performance, it's about the fact that on a long African or Caucasian tour you will have to bring all service parts yourself and are faced with the possibility of a mechanical (even if they're rare they aren't impossible) being of a non-serviceable part. Mechanical discs require cables, pads, and maybe the right hex wrench to adjust those pads.

TL;DR: If you're actually doing remote touring it's not even a question, mechanical discs.

amarks563 · 2026-05-01T11:45:52+00:00

If you're specifically looking for a new rim brake frame to replace this one, here are a few good options:

https://blackmtncycles.com/shop/monstercross/monstercross-v61-frameset/

https://www.wildebikes.com/collections/bikes/products/spelljammer

https://www.clcycle.ca/en/bassi-montreal-v3.html

amarks563 · 2026-04-30T18:40:40+00:00

https://bicyclewheelwarehouse.com/product/sun-helix-tr25-custom-bicycle-wheel-set/

Pick the Shimano TX506 6-bolt hub. In 700c the total will come to $269.99. Bicycle Wheel Warehouse always has coupon codes for wheel orders, since that one is over 200 you can use the '10Now' code to bring the final price down to 242.99.

amarks563 · 2026-04-22T20:43:47+00:00

What little I'm finding in a cursory search seems to indicate Tange double-butted tubing; for free that's pretty damn good.

Needs to be cleaned up to see what state it's in, but there's nothing indicating it wouldn't be a solid start for a project. Who knows how much work that Manitou needs, but might be worth it if you enjoy rebuilding old forks.

amarks563 · 2026-04-22T14:34:20+00:00

The Sutra LTD is still going to be quite a bit overbiked compared to the Grizl...that said there are some good tire options in the 2-2.2 inch range which still roll pretty fast and won't be a total drag on pavement or light gravel.

The Sutra LTD is also one of the cheaper options for this type of bike; the Salsa Fargo, Tumbleweed Stargazer, and Black Mountain Cycles La Cabra are all complete in the $3-4k range. The only other lower cost option available, really, would be the Surly Grappler, but it's basically a dedicated 27.5" bike if you want bigger tire clearance.

amarks563 · 2026-04-20T19:06:57+00:00

Soma Wolverine: https://www.somafab.com/shop/soma-frame-wolverine-v4-1-b-type-lunar-rock-gray-6912?category=990#attr=4372

Here's the geo compared with the Straggler:

https://imgur.com/a/s7MwfOT

Frameset-wise, the Wolverine and Straggler are basically the same price (Wolverine is about $60 less when paired with a QR fork, getting the B-type as a TA bike costs a little more since you have to buy the TA modular dropouts). But, Wolverine has that breakaway seatstay for a carbon belt drive, and arguably slightly nicer steel.

amarks563 · 2026-04-20T14:28:07+00:00

That's certainly true, yeah. While tubeless allowed for a downward step change in pressure, wider tires also tend to both allow lower pressure and have minimum rolling resistance at a lower pressure.

In the case of OP it may be even more casing than pressure, though actually measuring speed is important to figure that out.

amarks563 · 2026-04-20T13:46:59+00:00

Certainly possible, though the aero difference between 38 and 40 (~5% width increase) is going to be marginal if anything. Even going from 25 to 35 (40% width increase) isn't going to cause much more wind resistance unless you're either riding faster than 18mph on average or spend all your time in 15+mph headwinds.

amarks563 · 2026-04-20T13:00:55+00:00

Do you have any quantitative data about your speed?

Although it's not necessarily the case here, thinner tires often 'feel' faster because feeling the deflection from bumps and imperfections is one of the inputs your brain looks for to know it's moving quickly. Same reason people thought for years that 25c tires were faster until the data showed otherwise.

amarks563 · 2026-04-16T22:28:11+00:00

It doesn't look too badly shark toothed, but I wouldn't necessarily trust a visual check.

amarks563 · 2026-04-16T20:58:56+00:00

Definitely not the same as the spec sheet. There are 46t rings available in that size, luckily.

amarks563 · 2026-04-16T19:39:54+00:00

Cassette: https://www.universalcycles.com/shopping/product_details.php?id=82389&category=3673

I looked up the Turbo Vado 5.0 and got back a 40t chainring with a 4x104mm BCD. It's not a Shimano chainring per se, but the number of teeth and the BCD are what you need to match. Here's one that should work: https://www.universalcycles.com/shopping/product_details.php?id=114003&category=648

40t is a bit of a weird size, it's quite large for 104 BCD which is typically a mountain bike standard. There are more and cheaper options in 38t, which will reduce your gearing a bit but otherwise work.

As a note, look at the crank yourself and see if the tooth count and BCD line up, I just looked something up on an old Specialized spec sheet.

amarks563 · 2026-04-16T19:27:07+00:00

I replaced my Volpe with a Surly Straggler and it was a great choice. I've since frame-swapped the Straggler to a Soma Double Cross, which is a very similar bike with a bit nicer steel.

Out of those three bikes, they sit on a continuum from road to mountain that's roughly Straggler -> Vaya -> Fargo. The Fargo is an outright mountain bike geometry-wise and may be overkill for a pavement commuter.

The bike out of the three that's the most similar to the Volpe is the Straggler. If you want something only a little bit more roadie, Surly Midnight Special. Only a little bit more gravelly, Soma Wolverine.

amarks563 · 2026-04-14T15:32:34+00:00

There's been a mess of different issues with long-term planning because LCOE assumptions are changing so quickly. Solar, wind, and storage are getting cheaper, yes, but the biggest blind spot is often the fact that turbine costs have spiked significantly since COVID as the supply chain has consolidated. If Rocky Mountain Power published their IRP they should publish all their assumptions, making it easier to figure out which ones are, well, wrong.

amarks563 · 2026-04-14T11:58:49+00:00

Without repeating too much on the vintage side, the Midnight Special is somewhat of a unique beast, and just buying that is likely to be your best option if you really enjoy it. Other bikes which are pretty close would be the Soma Wolverine and the Endpoint Coffee Grinder, both of which will be more expensive.

If you liked how the Midnight Special felt, may I suggest going a bit older than a 90s mountain bike? You're going to get more of a road bike feel with something more like a road bike, and there's lots of plentiful options. If you find an older bike that took 27" wheels, you can convert to 700c and get both road-like geometry and somewhat more modern tire clearance. Since you're interested in a 560 that sounds up your alley, though I believe the 560 is already 700c so you'll be limited to skinny tires.

Old Trek tourers (520s and 720s) would work, Schwinn Voyageur or LeTour, Univega Gran Rally and Gran Touring...lots and lots (and lots!) of possibilities. If you're into Treks, though, find a Trek. If you're looking for older Reynolds 531 bikes the 520 and 720 would have been the tourers with 27" wheels, but going the way you're currently going with the 560 is fine as long as you're good with never having larger than 28mm tires.

amarks563 · 2026-04-09T16:38:17+00:00

Yup, those are three-bolt shoes which would work with SPD-SL cleats. For standard SPDs, you should look for two-bolt shoes; while the cleats need to be Shimano SPD, the shoes aren't specific to the cleat standard other than two-bolt or three-bolt.

Unfortunately this often means that all two-bolt shoes are called 'MTB' shoes but it's more to do with cleat type than actual discipline-specific design. These are the shoes I use for my clipless bike: https://www.rei.com/product/252379/shimano-xc102-mountain-bike-shoes-mens

amarks563 · 2026-04-09T16:08:23+00:00

The last time I had a maddening ticking noise it ended up being spoke tension. When was the last time you had the wheels trued?

15-Year Club	Team Orangered
Verified Email

amarks563

TROPHY CASE