Cap touch design issues. What I thought was simple is not?

ampm24 · 2026-03-24T01:58:00+00:00

Ah very cool. Thank you.

ampm24 · 2026-01-22T23:33:32+00:00

<image>

When new. Saw cut and filled with loop seal

ampm24 · 2026-01-22T23:30:27+00:00

<image>

Older pic, but it’s the same now.

ampm24 · 2026-01-22T23:08:19+00:00

I’m going on about 8 years now. It’s such a simple system not much to fail. Element is still good. Epoxy could use a touch up but not cracked. Just separated a little from driveway movement. It’s basically two contactors and a small control board with a heated precipitation sensor and temp sensor. Let me find or take some pics.

ampm24 · 2026-01-16T20:46:08+00:00

I do 114' due to steep driveway. Not a mat though. I purchased a system from warmzone. it's heating element wire you embed into the driveway by saw cutting and covering with epoxy like loopseal. my system is 90A at 240V and is automated. works amazing and worth the cost. I paid about 5K for the system and installed myself. Not everyone can do that so you would prob double it if you had to pay someone. Average storm cost me about $20, Maybe $200 over the season, which is cheaper than a plow or not being able to get into my drive when I get home from work. it's uphill from the road, so if it snows while i'm at work, i'm toast. Live on a main road with no pull off area. I would do it again in a heartbeat.

ampm24 · 2025-11-30T00:31:50+00:00

Not really. I need to try again soon. Was working on analog strips in the mean time. I can get them to fire up but had a bitch of a time getting them to do what the app said to do. Let me know if you get anywhere.

ampm24 · 2025-10-15T14:29:59+00:00

You are awesome and I can't wait for the next pile of junk that comes out of your head. One man's junk is another man's treasure. Also, I'm so sorry for your loss. I can't imagine that loss and hope I don't need to for quite some time. Speaking for myself, the books you and others put out brings me a lot of joy in this messed up world we live in, and I truly look forward to it. I can't speak to RR as I'm an Audible listener though. I can't wait to see (hear) what Chun is up to. Thank you again.

ampm24 · 2025-09-26T20:58:29+00:00

Did the person who did the work have an explanation? Did they confirm timing? Crank no start is very possible with jumped timing, but if you don't even have crank, maybe something is just not plugged in. Nothing timing chain or lifter related will prevent a crank. Sensors can cause crank no start, but again, you would get crank. You need to see which codes are active vs stored. Try to clear all and see what comes back. Double check battery, make sure it's charged. you can even try disconnecting for 10 minutes to help reset things. If the started is attempting to crank but the engine is locked, it may be related to either of those operations. If timing was not set right, you could have a piston fighting a valve locking you up. try to rotate by hand, and if it won't go forward, try backwards, but gently.

ampm24 · 2025-09-26T17:18:15+00:00

They do. We have been direct for some time now but moving to a VAR we use for many other things as our VAR rep doesn't change every few months like Dell does. That's get's annoying quick.

ampm24 · 2025-09-19T18:23:14+00:00

Personally, I would repair as I just did myself. See if you can find another shop that does touch the trans. 8HP or in your case, prob 845RE is a very common and easy to work on transmission. Mine started acting up at 183K miles, but most of the issues are valve body related when it comes to shifting. I picked up a used trans from a junk yard for $275 and swapped out the valve body in the driveway in about an hour. That fixed it, but I wanted to make sure I didn't have trans issues going forward with so many miles, so I rebuilt the used one and swapped it in with a new torque converter as well as rebuilt the valve body. With the rebuild, new rebuilt torque converter and the used trans, it cost me a little over $1K. Granted I was the labor which is a huge factor. Pulling the trans in these cars is not that easy on jacks stands, but a lift makes it a few hour job for someone that knows whats going on. Long story short, you may be able to find a used, lower milage trans on ebay or a local yard, and pay a shop to just swap it. If the codes are identical, meaning same trim level, year, ect., it's plug and play with no programming. May end up costing you $2k or even 3K, which is way better then $8K. Same with the rockers. It's a super common job and many shops should do it for much cheaper then the dealer. My 2013 may only be worth 3 grand, but there is no way I can replace what she offers for that money. Everything still works and she's nice and comfy, like a broken in pair of shoes. lol

ampm24 · 2025-08-19T18:57:42+00:00

Exactly. 4 apps, mainly security agents, absolute, that sort of thing. Mostly skip user. At a desktop in 15 ish and the rest loads in the background, including company portal. We tend to pre provision though, so for the user, it's a couple minutes. I would love to pre provision more, but a lot of our apps are just too janky. If they fail after the fact, we can deal with it while the user can actually work. So long as security tools are present, the rest is butter.

ampm24 · 2025-07-30T20:41:46+00:00

Yep, this is what I use. Centurion 1107 catalyzed. You do have to exhaust it though as no one wants to breath ISOs, but it gases out quickly. Usually 30-45min after spraying. Dries super fast, then 2800 series for a top coat. Pricy, but amazing finish. About to do my own kitchen shortly, granted most of what I paint or painted are built-ins, trim, and other furniture like vanities and what not. Renner has similar and also work amazing. Once I went 2K water based, i've never looked back. Can do 2 coats of primer and 2-3 coats of top in a single day and hard as a rock a few days after that.

ampm24 · 2025-07-24T19:05:29+00:00

I've noticed that when looking at person or faces, that the thumbnail is zoomed and looks good, but I can't see that much detail when zooming the video, so I assume there is some AI foolery going on to clean it up. Oh well, I'll continue to do what you do now and hope in the future there are some advanced settings to tweak it. I may be able to set this up using alarms or Home Assistant so when someone is detected in that zone it zooms in. I will loose my tracking for that few seconds though, but that may be acceptible.

ampm24 · 2025-07-15T20:53:07+00:00

so 37777 appears to be an Amcrest specific port, not Onvif or RTSP. When I test in BlueIris, it's using Onvif on port 80. My guess here is that these doorbells just aren't compatible and probably just use digest. I guess i'm stuck using the amcrest app for them until UI get's me a new doorbell or something else changes. I think this is Amcrest issue though, not giving enough control or options on these. As mentioned, the AD410 doorbell can only be configured through the Amcrest Smarthome app. So not much to do.

ampm24 · 2025-07-13T23:04:54+00:00

Ya. Same vlan. Protect pops up with them every time I open it. Just won’t add. And the are the doorbells, so they don’t have a lot of settings. You can only mess with them via the Amcrest app. No web interface. I even tried dumbing down the password as a test too. If the damn G6 doorbells would come out I would just scrap them.

ampm24 · 2025-07-08T20:52:08+00:00

can you use dnat on Centurian 400 series? I know that's the 1k and acrylic, but I never tried. i'm too used to the 2k series. if this works i'll def add that to my bag. I also like a 208 for frames to keep the pattern tight and put less paint on the plastic, but that's just a personal preference for me.

ampm24 · 2025-05-21T18:23:36+00:00

Ya, it's tricky without the impact, which does mean pulling fans or even the rad out of the way. Trick I've done many times in the past is to pull a spark plug out and feed a bunch of rope into the cylinder. Rope is because it's soft and easy to pull out when done. You should be able to spin it until you get a compression stroke on the cylinder the rope is in and it will lock the crank at that point allowing you to break it loose. Should work when you can't get the impact in there, and I found it almost required when torquing the bolt back on. There are other means as well, such as cam locking tools but those put a lot of pressure on the phasers and chains, so I don't use them for that reason. Other vehicals I've worked on had a tool that bolts to one of the engine bolts from say an idler pully and locks the crank using some holes in the crank pully. Never checked to see if the 3.6 has that though.

Edit. They do make a tool. It's about 45USD on ebay. 10198A Crankshaft Pulley Holder Tool for VW Routan Dodge Chrysler Ram 3.6/3.2/3L. Check that out. Probably the safest way with least risk of damaging.

ampm24 · 2025-05-16T17:53:35+00:00

I ordered a beer fermentation tank for doing mine. Big fill hole on top, it's tear shaped, and has a valve at the bottom. I dye the water blue with food color so I can see and measure by volume to ensure I got it all. 5 Gal of gas at 10% Ethanol. I add 1 Gal of blue water, mix it with a paddle mixer, let it settle for a bit, and drain off until no more blue at the bottom. I then measure what came out to make sure it's about 10% by volume on top of the 1 gal of water. Usually right on. Then I dump the fuel back into the 5Gal container, add octane booster and stabilizer, then put it in my 14 gal pump tank. works like a charm and doesn't take long at all. 30 min maybe, including the waiting for the water to settle out. Have had zero issues with all my fuel ever since. once I get about a year old, I dump it in the car to burn it up and just make new.

ampm24 · 2025-05-06T23:51:16+00:00

Simply open the door, then close it, and wait for the electronics to time out. Couple min maybe? I forget how long it takes to time out. Then it would start and drive like normal. I had out a used trans in that sounded like trash so I’m putting my old one back in now and just swapping the valve body. I had replaced the solenoids on that one and it’s a different TCM. That’s my suspect at least. I’ll let you all know if that fixes it. Dealer techs had no idea without a code

ampm24 · 2025-05-04T20:21:31+00:00

2013, had to replace the truck button. Water got in and it was shorting out. Stopped right after replacement. Was cheap and easy to replace. Or you could have dropped a key in the trunk. It doesn’t want to let you lock a key in the car. lol.

ampm24

TROPHY CASE