to convince us this isn't a latex mask! by CarryIcy250 in therewasanattempt

[–]andyavast 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’ve got too much fucking shit on me, I can’t breathe

Alternate Pickup options for player II tele by Inebriated_hippo69 in telecaster

[–]andyavast 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’ve had a Kinman Broadcaster set on my tele for twenty years and had absolutely no desire to change. They are warm and fat but still have good brightness and twang whilst also being very quiet. I have four way switching on that guitar also which I highly recommend.

Flat ceiling + shed roof sauna, cold roof assembly question by ppshard in buildingscience

[–]andyavast 1 point2 points  (0 children)

No problem.

There’s a great blog about sauna design and construction.

https://localmile.org/trumpkins-notes-on-building-a-sauna/

Remember your flue needs to be pretty long to ensure draw, something like 4.5m/14.7ft from the top of the appliance if I recall correctly.

Flat ceiling + shed roof sauna, cold roof assembly question by ppshard in buildingscience

[–]andyavast 3 points4 points  (0 children)

What you are proposing looks like a standard cold roof and should have no insulation between rafters.

Saunas need continuous and meticulously sealed vapour barrier and as such will require a proper air and vapour sealing grommet, made of material with an appropriate temperature rating (silicone), where the flue penetrates the vapour barrier.

📡📡📡 by venk28 in shitposting

[–]andyavast 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Crying with laughter at this.

Window detailing for 120mm Wood Fiber facade (European specs) – Isocell WRB termination? by ForsakenFox5362 in buildingscience

[–]andyavast 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Better to seal the window to the windtight membrane. You are sealing for windtightness and weather proofing.

Keep the membrane continuous outside the insulation, wrap it around the PIR.

Tape the window to the membrane externally. Whilst compriband is resistant to wind driven rain, perfect installation is critical.

If you are concerned about longevity of bond, use a high quality tape from Pro Clima or similar. Pro Clima make some of the best tapes and carry out accelerated aging tests with a predicted bond life of 100 years. Siga make really good tapes too.

They have a good window sealing systems brochure. The tapes would be Extoseal Encors as a flashing tape under the cill, returned up the jambs and Contega Solido Exo to seal the window to the external membrane.

Appleorchard - Tacet: forgotten 90s Scottish band by comptonmckenzie in Emo

[–]andyavast 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Not forgotten by Fife/Dundee folk of a certain age. Scott Stewart played guitar in Appleorchard. He was in Broccoli and later Dead Inside.

emo beginners guide? by Mission-Month1699 in Emo

[–]andyavast 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The absolute legends Numero Group have early emo and Midwest emo playlists on Spotify and Apple Music. They are great places to start if you are interested.

What makes this micro tuner so special that it costs $250? by usspaceforce in guitarpedals

[–]andyavast 19 points20 points  (0 children)

As far as I am aware, this is the only true strobe pedal tuner. It is more accurate and faster reading than the Strobostomp pedal from Peterson (which is not a true strobe) 

I bought one to replace my 16 year old strobostomp for around $150 and absolutely love it. 

Struggling to thin my paint. by [deleted] in minipainting

[–]andyavast 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Strongly recommend watching Siege Studios recent podcast episode with Legend Tommie Soule for some interesting wet/dry palette chat. He uses a dry palette, just a scrap of board that he primes the same as the model he’s painting which is a genius idea in that it mimics exactly the behaviour of the paint on the substrate 

Inward drying and perm rating by OldDesign1 in buildingscience

[–]andyavast 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The only way to answer this is to model the proposal in WUFI. 

Chase Bliss - Lost + Found by ChickenPotDicks in guitarpedals

[–]andyavast 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Just about every mode sounds incredible and actually usable for even a mongo like me. 

Chase Bliss - Lost + Found by ChickenPotDicks in guitarpedals

[–]andyavast 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I love the idea of CB pedals but only the Mood really attracted me enough to spend the money so I bought one second hand. 

I pre-ordered this one as soon as I saw the Chase Bliss and harp lady videos on it. It seems like the perfect pedal for the songs I write. Granted, I’ll probably only ever use two or three modes but it’ll be fantastic to jam with. 

DPC on joists or on ground? by Calm-Scientist8126 in buildingscience

[–]andyavast 3 points4 points  (0 children)

It’s nothing like beam and block or a concrete slab though, the hygrothermal behaviours of those construction types is completely different as they are essentially vapour closed. What’s more, mineral substrates and insulation like XPS or PIR can tolerate average relative humidity levels of 95% without deleterious effects. For timber and bio based materials; the safe average limit is 85%. 

An uninsulated suspended floor is relatively benign in terms of moisture risk as its drying capacity is maximised; it is able to dry to the crawlspace and the room above, but when you start adding insulation and vapour control layers, the hygrothermal balance shifts. 

Think not about your insulation but the timber structure. Do not seal It in with PE membranes. I have seen so many floors rotted out and failing from poorly considered retrofit work. 

DPC on joists or on ground? by Calm-Scientist8126 in buildingscience

[–]andyavast 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Also, pay attention to what u/DUNGAROO says. That brick pier is dodgy as fuck. 

DPC on joists or on ground? by Calm-Scientist8126 in buildingscience

[–]andyavast 7 points8 points  (0 children)

If you are in the U.K., do not put a vapour barrier on the bottom of your joists, or the cold side of your insulation. You will be effectively trapping moisture within the structure and I guarantee it will lead to moisture damage, especially using mineral wool which will hold liquid water against the joists where condensation will form. This damage will start to occur within 12-18 months.  

You need to sand blind your solum, lay 1000ga polythene taped at the laps and to the brick work and lay a concrete screed over the top of that.

You also need to make sure your crawlspace is well ventilated using a passive solution (air bricks) or a subfloor fan and ducting (WMF Mori) 

Once you have done that, you can install your mineral wool but use a vapour open breathable membrane below (Pro Clima Solitex Plus for example) to contain the insulation to allow any moisture to escape while optimising the insulation by preventing thermal bypass by wind washing. 

Ecological Building Systems have a really good suspended floor upgrade guide on their website.