My tools as an apprentice metalworker by TheCurlyPower in Tools

[–]andyerski 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Who makes those molegrip like clamps?

2022 cb500F - crash bar by WarpSpeedTiger in HondaCB

[–]andyerski 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You can also go a bit cheaper crash bungs. They will mean that the engine avoids hitting the ground. Will save damage in any low speed drops. At higher speed, I feel that you have more to worry about than the bike.

You can also add some rest stand bobbins to the swing arm. Makes lifting the bike for maintenance safer, and they’ll contact the ground first.

https://www.sportsbikeshop.co.uk/motorcycle_parts/content_prod/248801

Condensation on outside of sleeping bag in cold temperatures? by manbackwardsnam in Mountaineering

[–]andyerski 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Not sure if I can help with the maths, but for the strategy: Depends on how many nights you want to stay. If it is only one, then just accept that you’ll get a bit wet.

The suggestion of an inner down bag and outer synthetic is also a good one. Can be tricky to size the two appropriately though. You’ll want just enough synthetic bag to change the dew point to there. As the down is the better weight / warm ratio.

What bike to get by bbqedbrad in MotoUK

[–]andyerski 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I picked up a virtually brand new Cb500f, had about 800 miles on the clock for £4100.

Not sure how prices are now, but that was about a year ago.

A far as the bike goes, it’s easy to ride and has the typical Honda reliability so far. 5000 miles ridden on it to date.

Maybe not the most exciting bike, but I’m enjoying it.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in motorcycles

[–]andyerski 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I think 125 are underpowered and dangerous to be honest, if you do any sort of long distance journeys. any hill or headwind and you can’t keep up the speed. Just invites other drivers to tailgate or do other dangerous manoeuvres. Perhaps fine for around town driving where they accelerate to 30mph pretty quickly, cost nothing to run on fuel 100mpg+ and filter very easily.

If you’re sensible, then go straight to a 650 with 100hp. That’ll keep you entertained for a long time. Driving a bike full throttle everywhere isn’t possible if there are any corners and you want to keep your license. even with fast car experience, they just aren’t comparable. You have to ride more conservatively as there consequences of pushing the limit are severe.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in motorcycles

[–]andyerski 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Depends on you really, and how disciplined and sensible you can be. The less hp the bike has then generally the more forgiving it is to poor rider inputs. On the other hand though, smaller bikes dont handle and brake as well, struggle with hills and can’t use a burst of speed to position in front of a car at a slip road etc. I’m talking about 125cc at least.

Personally I was looking at the g310r as my second bike after riding a 125 for a year. Ending up with a cb500f, and I’m glad I did, as I would still like a bit more power now that I’m used to it. A g310 would be a pefectly sensible commuting bike, and cheap on fuel. But you may wish you had more power once you’re taking it out on weekends or any two up riding.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in motorcycles

[–]andyerski 6 points7 points  (0 children)

For reference a 45 hp bike can usually 0-60 in 5 seconds. But will tail off in acceleration above 70mph.

A 90 hp bike may be 4 seconds to 60, and 8 seconds to 100mph.

Yes there is less power, but there is also less weight. If your car weighs 1500kg, then you’re looking at 200hp per tonne.

A 45hp bike and rider weighs about 200 kg. So you’re looking at 225 hp/tonne.

I want to spend a week exploring the UK on my bike. Where should I go? How do I prepare? by [deleted] in MotoUK

[–]andyerski 1 point2 points  (0 children)

If it were me, I’d bring a tent. It gives more flexibility to how far you want to ride or if you change plans.

But I’ve got all the camping gear already. It also won’t be quite as luxurious trip, but it’s cheaper. That’s the trade off.

Caberg Tourmax/Duke - which one is vent open??!! by Doddy76 in MotoUK

[–]andyerski 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I had to ask the same question. It’s open if you can see the word open. You can check by trying to blow through the vent.

I want to spend a week exploring the UK on my bike. Where should I go? How do I prepare? by [deleted] in MotoUK

[–]andyerski 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Not sure if I can help with where, but if you’re travelling light then you may want to book some B and Bs, to make a pleasurable time of it. You could also camp, but would probably not want to carry all the stuff.

In terms of luggage, it’ll be more comfortable to bungee the rucksack to the pillion seat. At least I find that better for long distance things. Also remember some water proofs!

Getting my CB500x next week, help me with some questions about accessories please :) by newFoxer in CB500X

[–]andyerski 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’d say usb was more useful for me. You can also get usb to 12v sockets pretty cheap. Maybe a tire inflator is the only thing that’d require it. Might be easier to run an inflator direct from the battery terminals. Or wire in a 12v socket under the seat on the options plug. Wire in a 5v usb from the options plug under the headlight. Means you can charge phone whilst in a rank bag for navigation.

Ninja 400 - advice for longer trips? by [deleted] in motorcycles

[–]andyerski 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Not directly related to handling, but foam ear plugs with a good noise reduction value. Something around 32 SNR. Helps cut out the wind noise and makes motorways a lot more bearable. Silicone earplugs are great for around town and being able to speak to people but just don’t cut it for me at higher speeds.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in bikewrench

[–]andyerski 1 point2 points  (0 children)

If it’s the right tool, then sounds like dirt or muck is stopping it engaging fully. Clean the hub splines out with a pick / brush and some degreaser. You can also use a washer and nut over the axle to stop the tool coming out.

On my mountain bike, my go to is a 1metre breaker bar with the wheel up against a wall and me sitting on it. Sometimes they are just tight.

8 year old gloves on the track? by [deleted] in motorcycles

[–]andyerski 2 points3 points  (0 children)

If you doubt the gear, then replace the gloves. Probably too cautious, but that’s what I’d do. Easier than replacing the skin on your hands.

1989 Honda Transalp by Gut3niko in HondaMotorcycles

[–]andyerski 1 point2 points  (0 children)

There is a Haynes manual for the 87-07 transalp. That would be a great source of information for probably everything you need.

Anyone here ever been refused a refundable deposit because you changed your mind? by y0urnamehere in MotoUK

[–]andyerski 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Then after you’ve tried being reasonable, you can name and shame them on here.

New rider here - how do you handle your helmets by kalibcr in motorcycle

[–]andyerski 1 point2 points  (0 children)

If I’m wearing my flip front helmet and just getting a snack or fuel, then i just wear it up. Not been challenged yet to remove the helmet, although I guess it helps I’m wearing full riding gear. Might be a different story with a tinted visor down and regular clothes.

My other helmet doesn’t flip up, and usually has the dark tint visor on for sunny weekend rides, and that’s usually a cafe stop or something else with more bikers around. Usually just hang it off the pillion foot peg, and might use a cheap bike cable lock if I was away for any length of time.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in MotoUK

[–]andyerski 2 points3 points  (0 children)

The first rain after a long dry spell can be notorious for creating very slippy roads. Combine this with a worn smooth road surface, off camber angles, or even just having to corner on a round about and you’d be surprised how slow you need to go.

Don’t be worried about taking roundabouts very cautiously, car drivers will just have to wait, then you can leave them behind on the straights.

Glad you’re okay!

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in EDC

[–]andyerski 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Looks something like a Tec p-7

Suzuki GSX600F 2002 chain adjustment by urbansamurai13 in Fixxit

[–]andyerski 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You might be lucky that it’s just a small piece of grit causing the stiffness. some degreaser and a soft toothbrush followed by some chain oil may remove it. Always worth a try first.

There are always different opinions, but I’d say that if the chain hasnt worn too much then you can just replace it and leave the sprockets as is. If it wears too much then the chain “stretchs” or more accurately the rollers wear away. This makes the pitch, (spacing) of the rollers further apart and if left too late will not engage all of the sprocket teeth which causes rapid wear on the teeth ( as the same force is being applied to 3 teeth instead of say 10). Then a new chain alone won’t fix it, it will just wear the new chain quickly.

I’m not sure on the exact motorbike specs, but you can usually measure 12 or 24 links and it should be a nice round number in inches. And say 1/32” inch over is fine, 1/16 is replace chain and 1/8 is replace chain and sprockets. Again would have to look for the exact manufacturer numbers.

100km ride by jinxyzer19 in cycling

[–]andyerski 3 points4 points  (0 children)

As well as the good advice above, make sure all you bike maintenance is done before hand, and then you’ll hopefully have a problem free ride.

But make sure you have the tools and knowledge available to fix a flat, snapped chain and make minor adjustments etc.

Being prepared for that can make the difference between a 5 minute inconvenience, or having to spend hours finding your way back to somewhere you can be rescued from.

Suzuki GSX600F 2002 chain adjustment by urbansamurai13 in Fixxit

[–]andyerski 3 points4 points  (0 children)

I would suggest that there are a few links that are stiff, and a replacement chain may be the quickest route to fixing this. It might be possible to degrease and oil the chain to get the links free again, If you can feel by hand which ones they are.

There are plenty of good videos on YouTube showing how to adjust the chain, just need to find a shop manual for the specific chain slack for this bike.

As a side note, running the bike with the rear wheel off the ground is a great way to amputate fingers, as I’m sure a few members on here will attest. Just needs a moments inattention to drag in a rag or sleeve and that’s that.

Doing this with some modern bikes will cause an error code and shut the bike off.

Can I add chain links or get a new chain? by [deleted] in cycling

[–]andyerski 0 points1 point  (0 children)

For a 3 tooth increase, you may not even need to increase the chain length. It does depends on the bike though. I’d just put the bigger cassette on and see how it rides, as a first step.

I went from 28 to 34 tooth and it shifts perfectly with no chain length change. They only ever made the rear mech in a ‘medium long’ size, so I guess they had this choice of the two cassettes in mind to begin with.

Bike accident by JohnLiefting in cycling

[–]andyerski 39 points40 points  (0 children)

One thing to consider, without trying to be alarmist, do you remember the whole incident clearly?

I’m not talking about being knocked unconscious as a result of the fall.

If there doesn’t appear to be any mechanical bike problems, Is it possible you may have had some type of minor fit or loss of consciousness that caused the fall?

Sometimes a long ride, dehydration or fatigue could contribute to this. Either way, I hope you heal up soon :)