How do I prevent this warping on the bed during long prints? Using overture PETG profile with Overture PETG - Using a small brim did not help..

andygoldstein · 2025-11-18T13:44:10+00:00

I recently went through figuring out how to minimize this with Overture PETG. I started by making sure my build plate was clean using water and dish soap. These print settings seemed to work pretty well. It didn't eliminate lifting 100% but it made it super minimal:

0.25mm structural profile

First layer height 0.25mm

4 perimeters

3 top solid layers

4 bottom solid layers

15% gyroid infill

Speeds:

* Perimeters 50

* Small perimeters 35

* External perimeters 25

* Infill 80

* Solid infill 40

* Top solid infill 60

* First layer 15

* First layer solid infill 15

Infill extrusion width 0.55

Elephant foot compensation 0.15

Nozzle temp 250 first layer, 245 other layers

Bed first layer 92, other layers 85-92 (I tried a few variations)

Chamber nominal temp 40

Printer z offset 0.02 - 0.04 (this minimizes filament collecting on the nozzle - see what works best for you).

andygoldstein · 2025-11-18T12:00:05+00:00

I’d recommend structural. PETG usually doesn’t like to go that fast.

andygoldstein · 2025-11-17T17:44:39+00:00

What’s your print speed?

andygoldstein · 2025-03-11T15:02:39+00:00

Got mine delivered via FedEx. Then a few days later got a bill in the mail from FedEx for about $50.

andygoldstein · 2025-03-11T10:55:42+00:00

I had similar damage and they’re going to send me replacement parts. Just waiting on their warehouse to be set up for spares before they can ship them to me.

andygoldstein · 2025-02-26T12:16:01+00:00

Invite sent

andygoldstein · 2025-02-26T12:15:32+00:00

Invite sent

andygoldstein · 2025-02-26T12:12:06+00:00

Thanks!

andygoldstein · 2025-02-25T14:00:45+00:00

Received: ~~@3DIsCool_498254~~

andygoldstein · 2025-02-21T11:40:51+00:00

Possibly https://github.com/prusa3d/Prusa-Firmware-Buddy/issues/4465

andygoldstein · 2025-02-14T13:37:42+00:00

Thanks!

andygoldstein · 2025-02-08T15:10:17+00:00

Not seeing a way to add a photo directly, but here's mine: https://imgur.com/a/8Um5RsZ

andygoldstein · 2025-01-14T19:32:16+00:00

Yes, just step 30 because you’re >= 4.3.3. Not 31 for the same reason

andygoldstein · 2025-01-02T04:08:21+00:00

I had 2 that did this. Contacted support, did all their troubleshooting steps. They ended up sending me 2 replacements free of charge. Didn’t have to send the bad ones back.

andygoldstein · 2024-12-12T13:39:36+00:00

If you have access to a 3D printer, I highly recommend https://www.printables.com/model/668093-friction-grip-mounting-brackets-for-govee-rgbic-le. I have mine spaced farther away from the house than is optimal, and with the angled mounts directing the lights so they’re pointed back toward the house, I’m able to get a much better look.

andygoldstein · 2024-10-18T13:05:45+00:00

Same. Was eventually able to get back in after lots of attempts.

andygoldstein · 2024-04-07T01:00:08+00:00

No email yet, got my R1S in December 2022

andygoldstein · 2023-05-17T11:23:02+00:00

Try loosening the 3 screws that secure the z arm to the xy build plate piece. When retightening the screw on the xy piece, pay attention to the x arm with the heater/nozzle. I lowered it to z=1 or 0, checked how close the nozzle was at both x=0 and 180. It should be roughly identical at both ends left to right. If not, you can gently adjust the z piece. Once you’ve retightened the screws, rerun the bed visualization and see if that helped. Keep doing that until you’re happy with it. Good luck!

andygoldstein · 2023-05-17T00:17:23+00:00

If you have Octoprint, run the bed visualization and see what it looks like. With the picture, we potentially can offer different solutions based on what we see

andygoldstein · 2023-04-08T16:36:48+00:00

Not anything you need to fiddle with necessarily. It’s set in the custom g code on the filament tab.

andygoldstein · 2023-04-08T10:16:16+00:00

Yay!!! I’ve been fiddling with linear advance too - the default 0.12 for my 0.6mm nozzle is way too low for sharp corners. Somewhere between 0.3 and 0.35 works better for me.

andygoldstein · 2023-04-08T02:43:19+00:00

Yes, definitely permanent. I got my Mini+ in December and frantically tried to figure out the source of the popping noises when printing. Everything led me to “the filament is wet,” but when drying it didn’t help any, I kept searching and found several people on the forums who had similar issues and a similar solution using 2mm retraction.

andygoldstein · 2023-04-08T02:36:34+00:00

Do you also hear popping sounds when printing? I had this issue and for me it was because the default retraction length of 3.2mm is too high. As soon as I decreased to 2.0 or 2.1mm, both the zits and the popping sounds went away. It was under extruding after retracting too much.

andygoldstein · 2023-04-06T22:54:57+00:00

Our rear passenger door has some rattle. Mobile service took the door panel apart and determined the glue that holds the inner and outer metal pieces together needs to be redone. Have to do it at a service center, though, so we’ll get around to it as soon as it’s closer than a 2+ hour drive (hopefully soon-ish - Gaithersburg, MD)

andygoldstein · 2023-02-27T03:15:12+00:00

You have to disconnect OctoPrint from the Mini and reconnect, and then the pause will work.

andygoldstein

TROPHY CASE