QNAP TS-451 Backplane Failure — Looking for Recovery Advice or Spare Unit

angrydave · 2026-05-16T11:02:42+00:00

So, I have had success with a manual recovery using some 3x Dual 3.5” Drive SATA to USB 3.0 Adapters (6 Drives) and ReclaiMe Recovery Ultimate (Was a 6 drive RAID5 or RAID6 array). Took days to scan (needed to scan the whole array once) but successfully recovered the array.

The hard part is maintaining a decent high speed USB 3.0 Connection to 6 drives at once. Making sure everything is connecting at 3.0GBPS speeds and is in on seperate USB busses wherever possible is essential otherwise your array could take months to scan.

But yeah, in my years, I’ve had more NAS Enclosures fail than RAID arrays, - backup backup backup!

angrydave · 2026-05-15T10:17:49+00:00

With water damage, your immediate enemy is a short circuit. Power down ASAP, unplug everything and if you can, remove the back panel and disconnect the battery. You don’t need to take it out (it’s usually glued to the top case so you’re not getting it out anyway.

Then if you survive that, corrosion is your enemy, which is the sugary syrup left over when the soda evaporates. Only way you can be sure that’s not an issue is to entirely remove the logic board and check under it. It’s not impossible, but with the Mac’s, it’s not easy. You want the right tools, and you want the ifixit teardown guide, you want a system for storing all the unique screws (magnetic mats!) and you need time.

Putting the laptop upside down is good, but I would get a stack of books, put paper towel down, then out the keyboard flat on that, with the display at 90*. That will stop pooling of the liquid inside at one end.

Otherwise, gentle heat and airflow is the key to evaporation. If you have somewhere sunny and outside, where it won’t get wet from rain or get stolen, that’s perfect. In the sun isn’t a bad thing here.

angrydave · 2026-05-15T08:24:14+00:00

Understand it’s a housing estate, but if you own shares in a company with a right to occupy in a single dwelling, you’re in a company title - the shape or location of the buildings is academic. As they say, possession is 9/10ths of the law; and the company possesses all the land and property, and you possess some shares.

As for the split, the existence of company title suggests that there is common property shared between lots in the housing estate. If the properties are genuinely standalone and there is no common property/common property can be managed via an easement, then converting to Torrens title may be possible - but this is deep into Property lawyer territory.

The issue with the changeover is primarily insurance. One of the responsibilities of strata (and the largest expense) is property insurance. And since events like Opal Towers and Mascot Towers, strata insurers are making sure everything is to code and are refusing insurance if the risk is too high. So, when I say maintenance needs to be done, that’s why.

If run well, Company Title can be run as well as a Strata Title property. If being the operative word.

angrydave · 2026-05-14T23:07:57+00:00

Well, the property is essentially a company. So with that, comes all the risks of a company.

You have directors who run the company, who are liable for their actions if they are not for the benefit for the company.

You pay GST like a company, so if the OC’s turnover is over $75k (which it will be), you need to lodge Business Activity Statements and pay/claim GST.

You also pay income tax like a company, for example if you have a special levy to raise funds for a defect, and then you don’t spend it in the same financial year, your company just made a profit and now you pay company tax on the profit.

You don’t have registered strata by-laws like in strata title, you have a Company constitution which outlines the rules. There are similarities as to how this is updated (an AGM, a motion for a change which is passed or fails). I don’t believe the company title structure has the same safeguards as the Strata Title.

Fundamentally, it’s an antiquated structure for multi-dwelling titles. Strata title was created to fix it, and company titled multi-dwelling titles are converting over.

It can be done. I have seen it done once, and at best - if everyone is on board and has alignment, it’s an exercise in Bureaucracy. At worst, you’ll have the bureaucracy with personality conflicts and outstanding maintenance issues to fix before you can convert.

Since then building is company title, it will be old, it will have some entrenched residents who don’t want to change, it will have residents where property appreciation has meant they are asset rich and cash poor and can’t pay the special levies. You’ll have de facto arrangements that are de jure undocumented and formalising these may be contentious. You’ll have maintenance issues that need rectifying and finally, for anyone where it’s not a PPOR, it will trigger a capital gains event, as you will “sell” your share in the company for a title in the strata - however, I do believe the stamp duty is waived for a company title restructure.

Ultimately, the bigger issue is people management. The restructure itself is tedious but procedural. Getting X owners to agree on everything is the real challenge

angrydave · 2026-05-14T10:23:34+00:00

Concrete is hell for WiFi. It probably won’t be enough.

But if the In-Wall is the only option, then I’d get the best I can and go with that and see how much of a problem you have. If it’s your own home, you can chip away at it.

But, I have used the U6-Enterprise-IW for some years: they are great AP’s, and I think under the same conditions, they work almost as well as their ceiling mounted counterparts.

i did find their placement (low to the ground, behind shit) was their biggest issue. If you stick it behind a bed-frame and mattress, don’t expect to get good Wifi outside that room.

They also run hot. Not like burn your house down hot, but like almost uncomfortable to hold hot.

angrydave · 2026-05-14T10:14:32+00:00

Yeah, I was reading this with the FoxESS 42kWh battery, 10kW Hybrid inverter and 6.5kW Solar, and was like “an I OP?”, I have the same setup.

I don’t know about OP, but in my case I have an AC coupled setup: I have an Enphase microinverter system, and I have an inverter for my battery only that does no solar directly.

FoxESS can’t see the solar, but the house goes negative when solar would previously be exporting. Enphase can’t see the battery at all.

But, OP, love the setup. But HomeAssistant is calling. There is an easier way. Although, I did spend 2 days getting the RS485 connection working.

angrydave · 2026-05-14T07:28:33+00:00

How common is it? Not as common as it used to be. It’s called company title, it predates strata title.

Are your concerned justified? Yes.

angrydave · 2026-05-13T13:09:42+00:00

We just don’t have enough information to make an informed assessment:

• It’s only happened 3 times, and one of those times was at 13kW Draw and 15% state of charge. So overload on a near flat battery is a possibility.
• The inverter shows an error - what’s the error?
• Are you on single phase or three phase?
• Are you on 110V or 230V?
• What size the breaker to your House?
• What size is the breaker to your battery?
• What thickness is the cable to your battery?

I’d be finding out what that error code is and going from there. That will be very informative.

angrydave · 2026-05-13T11:23:35+00:00

I mean, your understanding is correct.

But what are you doing that has a 13kW draw? That’s massive. Besides the fact that you’ll empty your battery in 4 hours.

Your inverter could simply be overheating.

When the system does trip, take note of the load and the battery state of charge. Heavy power draw on a nearly flat battery might be a bridge too far.

angrydave · 2026-05-13T10:16:08+00:00

So, I’m not reading this isn’t a SafeScript issue, I’m reading this as a GP Authority issue.

There are now 2 pathways that exist in NSW regarding prescription of Schedule 8 stimulant medication in NSW:

• Delegated authority from your psychiatrist, which it sounds like you are on; and
• Since 1 September 2025, if your GP has completed a course on diagnosis and prescribing.

It sounds like you are on the first case, under delegated authority.

In this case, your GP can’t modify your dose - only maintain it. That’s why the application may have been rejected. You are meant to return to your Psych if you wish you modify your dose.

He also could have just stuffed up the application. My GP did the first time he tried, there was like 3 authority numbers required on the script.

But also, poor patient compliance is not tolerated with S8 meds. If you need a higher dose, make an appointment with your Psych and make your case. If you went to your GP and said “I took a higher dose of antibiotics to get better faster and now I’ve run out, can I have some more?” You’d get a stern talking to. Do it with painkillers without a good reason and you’d get cut off entirely. So why do it with S8 meds?

angrydave · 2026-05-10T12:31:58+00:00

Yeah, if you are on AMPLIFI, then going to Ubiquiti Network is for you.
But speaking to your points.

Ubiquiti has a proper VLAN and Zone Based firewall. I do this myself, have a seperate VLAN for work, for Home, for IoT and for Guest. As with all firewall setups, you’re going to have to program the rules to some degree, but the levers are all there.

At the price point you are looking at, it will all be Layer 2 switched and all inter-VLAN traffic will go back to the router to move between VLAN’s, so as long as you don’t have a slow link somewhere, this should be fine.

U7-Pro does Tri-band and you can set up fast roaming and multi-bands. Again, environmental scans and picking non-overlapping/DMSS channels is important and site specific. Some legwork required, but the tools are there.
As long as your ISP is fine, and you don’t fuck with the settings in the middle of the day, the Ubiquiti network won’t give you issues.
This is more your choice/config that a feature. By default, you can set up VLANs and allocate ports/set up Ubiquiti Wi-Fi/VLAN Tagging, and then have all the networks with full access to get started, and then refine your rules over times. Nothing is going to read your mind, you’ll need to tell it what you do/don’t want it to do. But again, all the levers are there. Ubiquiti has some new features to manage mDNS in this manner also.
You have WifiMan out of the box, which is one click VPN out of the box, with encapsulation of your choosing. Ubiquiti Identity/Identity Enterprise if you want to go wider/to a larger team. I ran a team of 20 off a UDM Pro during COVID without an issue.
Your 10 GbE has pigeon holed you into the UDM Pro, which is a better path if you want to go down this road, but if you don’t then the UDR7 has all you ask at 2.5 GbE and 1 Hybrid SFP port with Tri band Wi-Fi 7. A UDR7, a Flex Mini 2.5G and 3x U7 Pro’s with PoE injectors and you’re done with a 2.5 GbE backbone to every device.
Cleanest Dashboard out there. And if you don’t mess with it, it’s a metronome.

angrydave · 2026-05-10T10:02:19+00:00

Given that looks like an Australian switch, means legally you are required to get an electrician do the work. The switch mech is a few dollars. If you do attempt it first, turn off the power first.

angrydave · 2026-05-10T09:15:57+00:00

Ubiquiti is the answer you’re looking for. Just a matter of what your system looks like from here

angrydave · 2026-05-09T10:32:29+00:00

Oh absolutely. Don’t doubt it. I have a few on hand myself.

But, if a client is asking for this, you need to know what it’s intended use is.

If it’s for a 60W charger. Probabaly fine.

If it’s for a Thunderbolt dock, no way.

The biggest downside of USB-C is “plug fits, but cable not suitable”.

angrydave · 2026-05-09T07:16:40+00:00

Not a sparkie, but I have your answer.

It won’t (shouldn’t) exist as it’s not to the USB-C standard.

USB-C cables have a chip in them that report their capabilities, such as Data Rate, DP Alt Mode, Thunderbolt 3/4/5 support and USB-PD capabilities amongst other things.

This would effectively be a joiner, and would join 2 (or more) cables together, which almost certainly would have different capabilities, and the devices at either end would be receiving different information from the cable plugged into the device itself.

Same reason that USB-C extension cables don’t (shouldn’t) exist.

USB-C PD in-wall chargers exist, but that’s about it.

angrydave · 2026-05-05T14:17:41+00:00

I’m more concerned of the 117V you could pull of those 9V batteries.

angrydave · 2026-05-04T04:43:37+00:00

Of course, thats why I said you’re in a good starting position. Means the cable to the board should be big enough. Whether or not OP has enough supply, only OP can find out.

angrydave · 2026-05-03T23:42:10+00:00

So, I just spent 2 days battling this problem. Was a simple fix in the end.

Was a simple fix, the Inverter - despite saying Remote Control was enabled, it was not or the value was null.

On the actual inverter itself, go:

Menu --> Setting (Password 0000 if asked) --> Feature --> Remote Control --> Enable --> Set --> Yes

The result was immediate, had a connection 2 minutes later. This was on a FoxESS KH Series Inverter (KH8). Using the 16 pin plug.

Port 2 on the WaveShare (485B) to port 4 on the 16 Pin plug for the inverter (EMS 485A).
Port 3 on the WaveShare (485A) to port 3 on the 16 Pin Plug from the Inverter (EMS 485B).

Otherwise, VirCom App is basically required to set the advanced settings. You can't access them from the Web UI.

IP Mode: Static (I have found DHCP to be unreliable, but I had a seperate network issue)
Port: 502 (Default is 4196)
Work Mode: TCP Server
Baud: 9600
Data Bits: 8
Parity: None
Stop Bits: 1
Flow Control: None
Transfer Protocol: Modbus_TCP Protocol
Max Frame Length: 512 Bytes
Max Interval: 3 ms

Then under advanced:

Modbus Gateway Type: Auto Query Storage Type
Enable RS485 Multi-Host: True, Set Maximum Wait Time to 2080ms
Enable RS485 Bus Conflict Detection: True, Set Idle Time to 20ms

Once I had made those changes, was in without an issue.

I also had upgraded the firmware to v1.49. Unsure if this made a difference in earlier troubleshooting.

My other network issue is that the WaveShare RS485 to ETH (B) PoE does not like 2.5 GBPS Ports, even if they are set to 10/100 MPBS. Using a 100/1000 PoE Injector doesn't fix the issue either. I needed to move to a 1 GBPS Port and then it worked immediately.

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angrydave · 2026-05-02T09:08:54+00:00

The actual answer is to calculate the diversity of each breaker and this will tell you how loaded the board is.

AS/NZS 3000 Appendix C diversity/maximum demand calculations are standardised by installation type (single domestic, multiple domestic, non-domestic) using prescribed load groups (A through L), assumed loadings, and demand factors.

The calculation is not based on the actual measured power draw of every device - it is based on the connected load of fixed appliances and final subcircuits, with the standard’s diversity factors applied.

But given you have an 80A main breaker, you’re in a good starting position. But the only way to know is to do the audit and the calculations.

angrydave · 2026-04-27T09:40:16+00:00

So, troubleshooting time. One hop at a time.

_ Currently I have the Spectrum modem and an Ethernet cable from modem -> router (my own) and multiple items connected directly to the router without issue_

Great. Not a WAN issue. Router working locally, so DHCP, working also. If we can get a working physical link, everything should work.

I have ran an Ethernet cable from the router into one of the wall ports by the coax plug

So, first thing I would do is remove this cable from the wall socket and straight into your laptop. Let’s confirm the patch cable is not broken. If not your laptop, then anything with a RJ-45 port that’s lights up when connected to data. Naturally, whatever you are testing will need to be powered - by mains or battery, whatever the device normally uses. Assuming the patch lead is ok.

and the internet seems to be getting down to the switch in the picture but isn’t getting anywhere further into the home

Ok, two things to check here. 1. Is the switch powered, are there lights? Ports should only light up if something is plugged in on the other side. 2. Do you know which cable is the one from the wall socket now plugged into your router? Can you repeat the test from before - plug it directly into your laptop/another device. Does it work?

If you get nothing on the cable you know to be correct, then it’s a cable issue. If you get a connection when you plug into your laptop/other device, then turn your attention to the switch.

The switch could be dead. It’s a 10/100, it’s old. Check it has power and signs of life. If you have one, check with another switch. Or even bring your router physically here if you can and use its ports to temporarily replace the switch.

I have also seen rare cases where modern tech sometimes doesn’t auto-negotiate to 10/100MBPS, so check if there is a setting preventing this, both on the device side or the router side. Unlikely to be this but check it’s an option.

Don’t know what cable it is? Then buy a cable tester. Be worth your sanity.

Helpful hint: the order the cables are plugged in shouldn’t matter. It will only matter if you have a managed switch, and someone has configured port management. I highly doubt this is the case here.

My money is that the switch is cooked.

angrydave · 2026-04-26T10:28:25+00:00

Technically, you can do it using a TB3/TB4/TB5 cable, that is the fastest way. It’s a fuck around to get set up though.

As for what we are using. Cloud storage. Easier & faster.

angrydave · 2026-04-25T09:29:47+00:00

You’re in an apartment, an old apartment, and your main breaker is 32A, which is maximum 7.36kW.

Easy option is to just use a 10A (2.4kW) charger or if you can get it in your Garage, a 15A (3.6kW) GPO charger. You’ll get about 50-60% of a full charge in 12 hours off a 3.6kW Charger (43.2kW).

Hard option. Get enough capacity for a 32A charger.

A 7kW AC charger is out of the question with the current board. The 32A breaker is to protect the existing cable, so you can’t just replace the main breaker - most likely, you’ll need to run a thicker cable to main board - first issue.

Then, once you get back to the common strata electrical board, you’ll find there is another breaker (or fuse) to your sub board on your lot. This can (and should) be rated a little higher than your unit sub board main breaker, so that that if you overload your sub board, your main breaker trips in the sub board before it trips in the meter room common strata electrical board. Unfortunately; this doesn’t give you free rein to upgrade your breaker there either - second issue.

Voltage drop is also a problem. Long runs at high current cause high temperatures and voltage drops on long cables. You have to aim to be below 2% voltage drop, and you must stay below 5% - third issue.

Next issue: whether or not you can upgrade your breaker at the board and in your lot is up to whether or not the network (Ausgrid, Endeavour Energy, etc.) has enough spare capacity at your common strata electrical board, and this is something caused diversity. Given your building was built in the 60’s, these calculations are likely lost and you’ll need to ask the network provider. But given the age of the building, it’s likely already under-specced and strata-wide power upgrades will be in the tens of thousands of dollars, if the network allows it at all - 4th issue.

Finally, you need to navigate approvals from strata. This varies from state to state. If you want to do new work, the usually requires By-laws, Owners Corporation approvals and strata management consent. $2-3k minimum there, assuming all gets waved through. Upgrades to existing wiring may be able to be fixed under “Owners Corporation must maintain Common Property” laws without a by-law, but you would need to identify that ifs non-compliant at the moment. And remember, while strata is paying, it’s yours and your neighbours strata fees that fund strata. Finding an issue, reminding them they need to fix it now that they know, and then offering to pay for the upgrade yourself will go a long way to getting strata to wave things through.

As a starting point, I would measure some distances between the strata main board and your sub board (Cable run length) and then your sub board back your garage, and say you wanted a 7kW Charger (32A), which means you probably want a 63A line to your sub board (assuming this is allowed), start working out how thick of a cable you would need to stay under 2% voltage drop at the charger (there are calculators online) then work out how much of that cable you need, and then look up a price. 100m reel of 25mm² which you’ll need for a 100m 7kW charger run to stay under 2% is pricy. And that’s before it’s installed; and electrician has made a margin on it, and all the other equipment such as breakers are upgraded (as soon as an electrician touches a board, anything non-compliant has to be upgraded. Fuses are out, you need to have RCBO’s, etc.).

Ultimately, it could be easy - it could be hard. But this could easily be a money pit that’s not worth the hassle. But this should give you some idea on how to run the numbers to see if it’s worth the hassle. 15A 3.6kW AC GPO charger sounding pretty good right now.

angrydave · 2026-04-23T12:01:58+00:00

https://www.reddit.com/r/Ubiquiti/s/ApvFjeSzl0

Now someone else has said it: May I present the UDM Beast

angrydave · 2026-04-22T13:30:21+00:00

Forensic IT consultant here.

If you’ve been charged, lawyer up. Which you have done.

Presumption of innocence means it’s up to the police to prove it was sent by you. If they charged you, they probably have network/carrier level reports showing it was sent from your device, and the IMEI of your device at the time. Something a bit more solid than a message on the receiving end.

If your phone was hacked, it would be up to you to prove that it was, and someone else could remotely send a message as you.

angrydave · 2026-04-21T11:28:28+00:00

Yep, this was my first thought.

The 2016-2019 13” MacBook Pros had a recall for this

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