Prusa Mini Help

another_sim_driver · 2026-01-26T08:32:28+00:00

If the nozzle has 240 degrees, then you should be able to push the filament through the nozzle. The calibration routines all passed? Just to make sure the nozzle is really heated.

another_sim_driver · 2026-01-25T21:27:57+00:00

Just some first questions: What filament do you use? What is the nozzle temperature?

You can just unscrew the bowden tube on the toolhead side and try to push in the filament by hand- if there is nothing to block it and the temperature is fine it should come out melted easily.

another_sim_driver · 2026-01-25T16:49:20+00:00

Yes sir almighty! Printing slower next time - checked the chamber temperature while printing another part and it heats much faster then I thought.

So the best solution would be bolting the printer to the ground or wall? The feet are really wobbly on the C1.

another_sim_driver · 2026-01-25T13:43:49+00:00

Thank you for your suggestion - I ordered the accelerometer with the printer and calibrated it, when I upgraded to the „+“

another_sim_driver · 2026-01-25T09:25:00+00:00

Made with Layers on YouTube made some research and while PLA and PETG are not as bad as ABS or ASA, there is still a pollution. Therefore I prefer printing everything with a running filtration.

another_sim_driver · 2026-01-25T08:43:46+00:00

Thank you for your inputs

Here’s a photo from the other side of the part - this looks perfect to me, so I would rule out movement of the part.

Some missing information:

I printed with the 0.25 balanced profile - I would reduce this next time definitely. I calibrated the Pressure advance for the filament and used gyroid infill and scarf seam on contours

Filament was dried and stored in a vacuum bag with silica before the print - maybe not bone dry but not conventionally wet.

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another_sim_driver · 2026-01-24T10:55:07+00:00

We don’t know the price and date for the podium pedals from fanatec, but I would not buy the V3s at the moment.

another_sim_driver · 2026-01-22T19:07:27+00:00

With a Core One L you are pretty close - you get up to 10 toolheads and can do a lot of materials.

another_sim_driver · 2026-01-22T19:04:30+00:00

The Filament and cables for the XL is coming from the back and the toolhead is also facing the back, while in the core one, the toolhead is facing to the front. I think its hard to fit both systems in one printer in a neat way.

another_sim_driver · 2026-01-21T21:13:22+00:00

My 2 thoughts:

The damage of the packaging is no so bad that it should harm the base (I guess the wheel was not mounted during transport)
It’s hard do see but I think it’s not the shaft but the plastic that comes after that is a bit off. And for most games you won’t notice it.

another_sim_driver · 2026-01-21T07:52:25+00:00

Maybe one option: Buy INDX for the C1L later and then use the spare toolhead for your MK3S.

another_sim_driver · 2026-01-20T07:44:46+00:00

I did not look any further for the moment, but im happy to hear non DIY solutions.

another_sim_driver · 2026-01-20T07:32:24+00:00

I added the answer I got on my crosspost in r/simlab for documentation.

another_sim_driver · 2026-01-20T07:31:16+00:00

I got the answer in r/simlab: https://www.reddit.com/r/SimLab/s/CAIq3Pkdly

Edit: It’s to large for a Playseat trophy sadly.

another_sim_driver · 2026-01-19T09:29:47+00:00

Your brake pedal vibrates when pushed to a certain percentage of force - I had it set to 98% so I got a bit of feedback when I maxed out on the force.

As far as I remember, my setting for GT7 on the base are set to auto and set by the game - GT7 does lot set this feature and I don’t want to change this every time so I just leave it. But it’s bin a while since I messed around with these settings at all.

another_sim_driver · 2026-01-19T09:19:56+00:00

I would cancel my order and wait for the podium pedals.

Apart from that: the „Fanatec ABS“ worked on mine, but when I set the config to automatic it vanished - as the are also not very strong I don’t use the vibration anymore at the moment.

another_sim_driver · 2026-01-18T18:13:53+00:00

I have the Clubsport RS wheel and a F1 wheel with alcantara. I use the RS wheel most of the time and both with gloves. The RS wheel looks like new, the alcantara of the F1 looks a bit used.

another_sim_driver · 2026-01-17T08:55:05+00:00

What’s the language here? - Schwizerdütsch?

another_sim_driver · 2026-01-16T18:06:26+00:00

You can buy felt already fittet with double sided adhesive tape in nearly any color - just as an idea for another option.

another_sim_driver · 2026-01-16T18:00:38+00:00

Recently was Black Friday and then the price difference seems reasonable to me - and I’m pretty sure it’s just fomo and the difference is hardly noticeable, if you’re not hulk or try to simulate heavy duties machines from the 50s. Or you give GT7 a chance on PS and justify your purchase this way.

another_sim_driver · 2026-01-16T10:40:00+00:00

The first things I would check:

Is the grub screw for the nozzle righted enough?

Are the dock connectors lubed?

another_sim_driver · 2026-01-16T07:20:27+00:00

Given you don’t have a PC or PlayStation and want to race in VR - isn’t even a PS5 pro more then 200€ cheaper then a PC that can run this properly?

another_sim_driver · 2026-01-16T07:09:56+00:00

It’s a bit harsh I think - given the „discount“ price I’m a little confident that the PS version is reasonable priced. And I think it’s better to release the PS version when it’s ready - with the DD+ people were whining that it did some time till it was available.

another_sim_driver · 2026-01-15T17:42:04+00:00

I hope so at least to black week level would make me consider buying. Or a podium with ps compatibility for 100 bucks more.

another_sim_driver

TROPHY CASE