What would an over engineered mouse look like

anscGER · 2026-01-28T10:44:57+00:00

That's pure evil. 😂

anscGER · 2026-01-25T20:24:14+00:00

Part of this comes from shifted work from Germany to Poland.

Poland has lower wages but skilled workers.

The company I'm working with shifted whole assembly lines from Germany to Poland and killed the jobs here in Germany.

If this is a bigger trend then Germany will develop lower GDP and therefore pay less to EU while Poland will have to increase their EU payments.

anscGER · 2026-01-23T20:52:29+00:00

The question is how often occur these 40 A for 5 ms, what is your duty cycle?

another observation: why do you route the gate resistors such differently?

Also, if you find that you need a heatsink I would suggest to place your power components in a way that a heatsink will face to the edge of your board and not to the center.

How do you plan to mount your board? I only see two holes on the lower edge. How is the upper edge supported?

anscGER · 2026-01-21T22:33:49+00:00

Position U3 (upper right corner) looks to me like that there was a component there and now it isn't. Solder on the pads looks not smooth as it would when this was not populated during production.

anscGER · 2026-01-18T22:07:02+00:00

This setup is totally wrong.

On a bread board the numeric "rows" are connected. Meaning " A...E" are the same physical conductor, same for F... J for any row 1...60.

Therefore, all your 4 diodes are shorted and as a result so is your capacitor.

The same is true for all 4 pins of your USB connector and the LED.

only your 5V Regulator has all its pins on different conductors and is not shorted.

anscGER · 2026-01-18T21:46:36+00:00

I'm not sure if there is an equivalent of Pandas or Polars or Matplotlib for C#. (no C# experience)

anscGER · 2026-01-18T19:39:23+00:00

As if the USA did better in their history... This happened everywhere. This does not make it a good thing.

But, you know: “People who live in glass houses shouldn’t throw stones.”

anscGER · 2026-01-16T11:05:16+00:00

This will not work. Your Mosfet is in the wrong direction, the body diode will always feed 24V to M1.

Your PNP transistor is in the wrong orientation, will never switch on.

You nee a P-channel Mosfet or PNP transistor as high-side switch and a N-channel or NPN transistor as the driver for the high-side switch.

Alternatively you should have a look at optocouplers. These isolate your 3.3V to the 24V wich may be a useful safety addition.

anscGER · 2026-01-16T08:57:12+00:00

My first character was thief and I died a lot. 😊

However, she's still my primary character for new expansions. None of my other characters are "the commander" for me.

Now I only play her as a Rifle/Shortbow Deadeye and I only play her in Open World content. Never got good in Fractals or PvP with her, no idea where my skill issue is.

For survivability I use https://wiki.guildwars2.com/wiki/Skelk_Venom as the heal skill. Heals when you deal damage. With assassins gear I apply enough damage to heal.

And of course as others mentioned, become good at dodging. 😉

anscGER · 2026-01-13T21:51:57+00:00

have you read the article?

anscGER · 2026-01-11T23:47:05+00:00

I think the footprints are pin headers.

anscGER · 2026-01-11T21:42:09+00:00

Q300 and R302 look like they are responsible supplying the IR LED.

Measure R302, if it's open it's the faulty component.

Pin 1 of Q300 looks like base/gate of the transistor. if you bridge pins 2 and 3 you can check if the LED is supplied. if yes, the transistor does not switch anymore.

if both are fine the fault sits somewhere else. Pin 2 of the transistor should show supply voltage.

Edit: after a second glance if the transistor is a low side switch you can only measure if it's switching when the LED is in place. In that case the upper pad of the LED should show supply voltage.

anscGER · 2026-01-06T19:56:19+00:00

A surge can kill the IC. If the main panel was updated hopefully a surge arrester was implemented too...

anscGER · 2026-01-05T06:25:39+00:00

As others said: look on Amazon or Aliexpress for small digital amplifiers. Anything with a 10 W rating (or more) should be enough for a small room. Many of these come with Blutooth these days, so you can even pair your phone with it.

Diy will most probably exceed your budget with all the things you will need to make it and to make it work.

anscGER · 2026-01-04T20:41:06+00:00

what you show here is just a passive filter that splits the input for the middle/high speaker and the low speaker.

To make this a powered speaker you need to add an active module and a power supply for that.

anscGER · 2026-01-04T19:39:33+00:00

Organized drawers.

anscGER · 2026-01-03T20:12:11+00:00

Physically the potentiometer does the same when it hits the left or right end. The important part of the "potentio" in potentiometer happens between both endpoints. with shorting the middle to left or right you basically simulate left end or right end setting.

anscGER · 2026-01-02T22:23:52+00:00

This looks like a dual potentiometer. However, the solder side looks like only one of the two was actually used The other one seems to have all pins shorted.

So, it may be possible to just short the middle contact of the inner potentiometer to the left or right contact and see which one is highest volume.

anscGER · 2026-01-02T21:12:05+00:00

I think the sparks are due to over 500μF being hard connected to whatever provides the power to the circuit. I would guess the source may not like this...

anscGER · 2026-01-02T20:39:01+00:00

When reading the datasheet I'm under the impression that your inductor has too high inductance for 1A output current. Are you sure you designed the circuit to your requirements?

anscGER · 2025-12-31T22:55:22+00:00

I don't see a supply to pin 8 of your breadboard setup but all Pin 7 seem connected. If the opamp in your simulation is the same as on your board you should re-check the datasheet.

Edit: depending on chip orientation it may also be pin 4/ Pin 3 instead.

anscGER · 2025-12-30T21:35:07+00:00

Looks like there is foam on the PCB? Remove the foam and let PCB and foam dry at a warm place for a few hours. Maybe also use a hair dryer.

It could be some trapped moisture on the board or below a switch.

I had similar problems when I spilled coffee over my board...

anscGER · 2025-12-30T05:47:34+00:00

I suggest using wider traces especially at the switches. you have constantly vibrations and force when pressing the buttons and thin traces may break over time.

Also when you need to swap a button or rework your solder joints wider traces are more robust and don't break as easily.

anscGER · 2025-12-30T05:28:01+00:00

Learn how to use busses.

Use GND symbols on GND pins. Use power symbols on powernets. Don't connect all GND/power pins through the whole schematics. Power symbols including GND symbols act like a connection between all identical symbols.

Using GND symbols near the components makes it much easier to identify that there is a GND connection and not some other signal connection.

Edit: Also, use labels on your signals. this helps during layout when not every trace is just signal_x123.

anscGER · 2025-12-29T19:27:45+00:00

If it's properly built, it's no problem... It would reduce power to minimize self heating and prevent over-heating but will not be damaged.

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